richbrummitt

Unfortunately not... Doesn't stop me from starting even more things though.

Me neither

I might have to use the 45xx instead. Plans are afoot for the improvement of the 14xx, that will hopefully mean that it will be able to haul one coach with a reasonable degree of control.

Your lot have a thing for motorised coaches so you should be okay.

I've got a lot of unpainted or otherwise unfinished stock too. There aren't any prizes. 

Bring it to a 2mm event. 

May 2015. Where?

Well you're certainly setting the standard for me to achieve with my own similar builds! I've decided to draw new artwork for chassis so there will be a delay while I can get around to it whilst not being distracted. 

I recently coupled some Dapol Collett coaches with a similar mechanism and they seem to work well enough. I cannot forsee that you will have any problems with the 6 wheeled chassis either. I work to a much larger ruling radius but calculations suggest no problems on quite small curves before gauge widening and there is the possibility of further bodging to get you down to below what I think is acceptable minimum radius for 2mm.

I'll look forward to seeing them at Epsom?

...Richard is more knowledgeable than me, and this being a special train - and with the horsebox being attached from the outset - I can see his point.

Er, where's the properly red faced smiley? I am guessing. Is Buffalo anywhere to be found?

I'd be tempted to put the saloon second still: the ride would have been smoother, I think.

I'd put the van at the end and the horses and carriage either before the van or immediately behind the engine. The two coaches could be either way but if the horses and carriage are towards the rear, such that the coaches are behind the engine then the saloon should probably follow the composite. This is just my opinion though. It could further depend on where Sir John's party were travelling from and to - the order might have been decided based on the proximity of his seat to the station buildings at one or both locations to reduce wear on his shoe leather.

The 'transitional' style of the composite you have chosen is something that I do like a lot.

Yes, very minimal, and a function of the layer height. Perhaps better results could be obtained by printing the sides flat and assembling - much like a plastic kit - but that kind of defeats the object?

I can scale the model for 4mm quite easily. You might need some more details around the door area to better define the hasp, lock and hinges but otherwise it should be good. There are location holes for the bogies and what not though. Presumably there is a source for 5'6" plate bogies of the right type? I'd need convincing to spend a few hours to get it uploaded and through the Shapeways acceptance nightmare for people to be able to buy it. What would be ideal is to find someone who had the knowledge and interest to resin cast it for a sensible sum (read what modellers might be prepared to pay for it) without taking up much of my time. The latter could apply to 2mm too.

The last picture should come up plenty big enough to see the rivets if you click on it because it's wider than my QHD+ display.

Bit late to the party Mark but thanks for the history lesson. The 5 plank moulding I think most closely resembles diagram O9 as it comes.

The account I wrote for the magazine is more detailed. Perhaps I should have had you sanity check and proof read it. It is with the editor now, and has been for a while. Last time I spoke with him he was trying to serialize it and keep the text matched up with the 25 or so pictures that I gave him on USB drive.

The layout needs more green but the stock needs some grime! Lovely details and, as always, well observed.

I don't know what the issue is with the Pentroller (other than the man who did make them doesn't) but due to age of the design I suspect that there is some component obsolescence that would need to be designed out for any new version. I like the coast/brake functionality so I got a PICtroller. It seems largely similar except that it has a few more adjustment options and 'detects' what type of motor is presented, then works accordingly.

Two things I always do on a build with the 'raw' components as a matter of course; thoroughly de-burr all the gears and smooth the wheel treads through increasingly fine grades of paper (dry and then wet) followed by a good polish. I learnt as I went too and it can be confidence crushing.

I had a good look under Richard Wilson's build of the 45xx chassis on Saturday and he had similarly fitted pick ups to the pony wheels, but of a different design to your own. It seems like an excellent idea once tweaked such that the springs cannot lift the driving wheels away from the wheels significantly and reduce tractive effort. 

Woo.   That's a lot of stones! I've not long since finished the ~2 metres of (scale) 7' walling that I need ready to be printer on A4 sticky labels. There are a little over 28,000 stones there (it's easy to count objects per layer in the computer) duplicated from the photographs we stopped off for in Guildford last year. I don't think that I'd have the patience to hand scribe them all.

edited for syntax and smileys.

Smiths (available from Scale Link/Shire Scenes) do etched weigh bridges in other scales, I don't know for sure about 7mm. I have their N/2mm ones stashed for later use.

I was planning on obtaining a couple more but if he's going to reduce them I'll definitely have extras ;-)

Someone else can use up the ones with 17'6" bodies though - far too modern for me. 

That makes me feel better, but not my wallet.

 

My "B5" Layout made the trip with me, along with several kit's and drawing's books for the suitable evening's (currently -25oC outside ,) but my efforts are slightly hampered at the moment by a lack of volts coming out of the wall.

-25C! Friends of ours in Dundas mentioned it was -20C this morning. I think the electrons freeze in the cable at those temperatures, which is likely to be why you're having problems. Stay in bed

I love how the detailed painting makes the smallest pictures pop. It seems to be a similar style of painting to wargaming miniatures but not overdone like these figures so often are.

A question: I find that drybrushing has a way of wrecking brushes when I do it - the hairs split and splay and the shape is impossible to restore after a short period of time. Do you keep specific brushes? Perhaps you treat them better than I find possible.

 The Toad missed the previous session with etch primer in the airbrush so it will need to wait until there is some other N/S stuff being painted.

I'm sure there are people out there who could provide some. I have two toads like this.

I might fit it and file them all off.

Thanks Nick, I should have all those issues. I must be careful when numbering the one to diagram V16 then... I could have swapped the roofs around if I hadn't glued most of them already. It might however give me the excuse to build at least one more!

Gosh you have been a busy bee  

Well the chassis have been built ages. I stuck them to the bodies and rolled the roofs whilst peddling the association and it's publications at Watford Finescale the other weekend. Buffers and couplings were two evenings work. I have a lot of part finished jobs and these still need painting but God's own spray booth seems closed for business for the foreseeable...

I've checked in An Illustrated History of Southern Wagons vol. 1 and it states that the LSWR first built 8 plank wagons in 1904.