Jump to content
RMweb
 

dj_crisp

Members
  • Posts

    1,607
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dj_crisp

  1. A topic I'm pretty useless at is electronics and I have a failed Physics A-Level to prove it! So I always put off lighting on all my projects but I can't put it off forever as I really want to run the layout in the dark (mostly to hide my modelling ) Originally I planned on using my Digikejis DR4018 unit for point control but that failed... so will now use it for lighting instead. I started it out with a 1k resistor and was quite disheartened by the ultra faint glow even on full brightness. So changed to a 470 ohm resistor and below is the result. They're all a tad brighter on my camera phone than reality - As a side note it's quite amazing what a camera phone camera can do these days as all are just handheld point and click efforts. I've been on the search for Industrial drop lights but haven't found anything remotely in my price range. So I've gone for a bodge it approach by using a 1.8mm LED (this case yellow) and sticking a M2 washer on. I chopped one leg off and soldered on 0.15mm enamelled wire. The impression I'm tring to do is have one leg as the hanging bracket and the thing wire as the cable. Then painted with primer and paint to prevent light bleed upwards. Hopefully my attempts look passable as a light. The same approach was done on the signal box interior but without the need to solder super fine wire This time I used warm white LEDs and quite like the effect; I've also bought some super cheap chinese street lamps which look ok. The warm white version seems to me to be brilliant white so have painted it to tone done. The lamp itself has loads of bleed so I'm going to paint it soon. Anyhow my first lockdown project is looking ok now - point rodding is the big project to learn next! In a way I now wish I'd sited the signal box differently to face the front of the layout rather than just view the back! Thanks for looking! Will
  2. dj_crisp

    Trethosa

    I imagine that could be very dangerous for me if they did! I have say there is some superb modelling in this thread - really enjoyed reading it again. Did you have any source photos for the 50 underframe details? I'm tempted to have a go at filling in the gaps on mine but have but finding out what goes on underneath is quite tricky cheers Will
  3. I'm still in the experimental phase of coach lighting and interiors (the camera has made this brighter than in situ). Just basic painting of the interior but I've added some mesh in my brake coaches which I think looks a bit better (with or without light) than the solid offerings Bachmann does. Wil
  4. Thanks all for your help - I now have a bit of light! My phone has made it a little brighter than reality but its a nice glow although this is on maximum brightness! cheers Will
  5. Thanks all I've tried a 470 ohm resistor and have a better light... seems the 1k resistor was too high for my set up
  6. Thanks! Good to know you've got them working well. Im going to double check my resistors to see what I used as I thought it was 1k Cheers Will
  7. Hi I'm using a Digikeijs DR4018 for controlling lights so have set it up to be 16x switches for LED lights. Does anyone know what the output is as even programming to maximum brightness the LEDs are very dim. It could be that i have used too high a resistor connected to a LED so would be interested if anyone has recommendations? Thanks Will
  8. I have similar plans. When I first started out in DCC I was very fussy and had the same CV allocated ti each function type on all of my locos. All programming is with the sprog with a sprog and I just copy a loco in the z21 app and edit it. A bit manual but ok Not having many sound locos this isn't much of a pain but I really wish there was a simple database I could access on a pc that the z21 app could read! Last night I struggled programming a DR4018 accessory decoder using z21 so ended up with using JMRI. Without it I'd be lost in DCC. I hope it all goes well!
  9. Awesome Guy! Looks like you've got a nice flat surface to work straight off... and the sofa looks like it'll hide the fiddle yard well
  10. Wow the bridge is is turning into a lengthy project!! Although it's getting close to primer stage which feels like progress. Yep the brick arch wasn't easy! I dipped the plastikard in boiling water around an old curtain pole offcut to help form the sharper part of the arch.... the rest is simply bent. I've spent the last few weeks scribing and forming plastikard for the stone caps across the entire bridge - hard to see these on my phone snaps but hopefully it'll look ok with some primer. I also quite like this view even though it's right at the back of the layout I honestly can't remember when i started this project but it has now taken up all of my modelling time since I started it! I'm not sure it'll really hide the fiddle yard but may distract a little from it! I'm rather looking forward to some lanscape forming to see if it all works! thanks for looking Will
  11. Not sure if my efforts help or are at your level but in case; During my trackbuild I've ended up using Ambis tie bars which seem to work well. I found them a little difficult to fold up but after destroying a few to start with I got into a routine and managed to produce enough for my setup. Generally I've fitted two per point and the one closest the toe I drilled small holes in the tie bars under the point blade for the droppers to the tou. They're operated using C&L TOUs which i found tricky to set up and had to modify (hack) for use with tortoises. (During my build I started out with DCC concepts motors but was shocked with their failure rate so have fitted tortoises to all that I can). If starting again I'd use the ambis stretchers but I'm not so sure on the TOUs. Next up for me is dummy FPL... then point rodding but haven't found the courage to do that yet. Will
  12. I'm sure most people will have built a layout in the time it's taking me to build a bridge! Anyhow two weeks off at Christmas and it looks like; Slowly getting there! Lots of filler has just gone in which I'm waiting for it to dry to smooth off and shape. Capping stones next which I think I'll just do out of plastikard The arch took me an age and while it's not right it'll have to do! My only other layout progress as been to put a door on the Fertilser depot - a have a long term ambition to motorise it but for now its manual. So things are happening although at a snails pace Happy New Year! Will
  13. Amazing! Love the n gauge 37 & 56 in the background Have a great Christmas! Will
  14. Hi Fran I was just directed back to page 9 to look at the fan and grille. It looks like an etch then whereas plastic now? That's not a criticism as I know you have to balance fidelity with something commercial. One other thing. Will the cab interior be full height or say half height to accommodate gears/bogie mounting? Overall its looking like a great project! Will
  15. I'm really hoping you'll do some original 37/4 to 37/7 locos... or if not have the chassis available separately I haven't ordered one as I think all technically none fit into my South West effort but may have to give in and apply some modellers license. Overall looks fantastic! I wonder if on the front screens you could do an etch like Brian's EE. That'll really make a difference. I understand tooling limitations on the roof grille... I can't imagine a production version is robust enough to match Brian's EE. It'll be interesting to see a roof shot and the intended fans though. Im really liking how the body sits on the chassis which all efforts previously have had too large a gap. Are you going for all wheels driven or a different approach? Cheers Will
  16. Fantastic wagons and superb detail. You've done a great job on the build on these and thanks for sending them through. They really are superb. However I'm with Guy on the Arc mustard yellow. To my eyes its too yellow... on first opening i wasn't sure if it was painted tbh and was just yellow plastic. Sorry to sound a little harsh. Maybe I've been influenced too much by Precision paints interpretation but the shades are quite different. I agree its really hard to base colours from photos and films and I'm sure everyone has a different view. Maybe yellow is just one of those colours that no-one can agree with (or i see differently!!).. I say that as I'm just about to batch respray (when the weather improves) Dapol, Hornby, Vitrains & Bachmanns interpretations of warning panel yellow. Will
  17. Aha. I was looking in the wrong place. Thanks for the photos... Will be adding some weight inside now. Cheers Will
  18. Thanks Guy! I was lucky to get Matrins efforts and his flatbottom crossover is still my favourite part of the layout. The back of the layout is my biggest worry so we'll see if it looks ok when the bridge and wall is in place. I'm taking some inspiration from St Merryn here so while it won't be as effective hopefully I can something similar cheers Will
  19. I'm really pleased you like it And great to hear from you! This layout has great foundations so hopefully I can do it justice. cheers Will
  20. Mine are never going to be coupled up to another unit so I've fitted a dummy coupling which is a bit more to scale and tried to fit horns/some representation of cables
  21. I've never been neat enough to be able to fit it ready sprayed and glazing fitted! Also it makes varnishing tricky. I've had to also carve away at the edges of the laserglaze and it does help to remove as much plastic from the body as possible
  22. I think at 200 a locomotive im going to be far less accepting of faults or the usual rubbish lighting.... I'm looking forward to seeing this effort before judging whether its worth it or whether I need to downsize the fleet to fund one.
  23. If I ever do anything GER it'll be with kettles but that one is a long way off with plenty to keep me occupied at the moment Well both 37 bogies or the station building have me interested!
×
×
  • Create New...