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Knuckles

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  1. Knuckles
    This video is NOT intended to offend anyone despite me being a bit aggressive, just having a whine on what I'm am bored silly of seeing
    in nearly all unboxing videos....and having a bit of a playful poke at how the format is generally played out!
    The opinions in this video are my own and again the intent isn't to offend but rather express my preference
    on how I think it SHOULD be done.
     
     
     

  2. Knuckles
    Ok cushy update.
     
    I sorted it, little birdy in the mind wouldn't shut up so I took the keeper plate off, removed the wheels, poked the 'compo' pin out, turned the bar around and then after a bit of trial and error bent it to where it worked properly. Result is great running again also slightly improved so I'm uber pleased.
     
    When I glued the lead shot in the 'ballast bin' I forgot to not get the glue between the keeper. As a result ol' Bonehead had to rip it off and sort another out. So I went to the Nylon12 keeper plate, tweaked it a bit and fitted that instead. Is a better material for a keeper plate anyway despite being a bit bendy. It has been painted black since.
     
    So here we go, screws turned, keeper off, wheels out and compensation bar swapped around..
     

     
    After some bar tweaking you simply reverse the process...
     


     
    Good init!
     
    Ok and here is a video...
     

     

    Previous blog for all the pics and building details.
  3. Knuckles
    Greetings.
     
    If you followed this thread and the above post you may know that I eventually solved the issue of getting a LB&SCR E2 kit I was happy with...I made my own. So my first Sparkshot Custom Creations E2 was in Gunky rusted BR Black using the cheaper WSF material. Since then I have also been working on a new type of chassis and the prototype can be read about and viewed as a video regarding the Furness J1 in this thread:
     
    https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=5086&start=25
     
    For this post though it is time to be culturally naughty. Me, culturally naughty? Never....
     
    Those of you who know me may by now understand I have two main railway interests above all others; pre-Grouping railways and realistic researched versions of the Railway Series (RWS). The TV series of 'Thomas & Friends' is nothing like the Railway Series that Wilbert Awdry intended and although most may move on and 'grow up' in this area I have a goal of restoring things to a researched almost uncompromised image.
     
    So a friend of mine, also known as Whitehousefilms asked me if I could fiddle with his ancient Stuart Reidpath locomotive and improve its running and iron out the coffee grinder sound effects. I gave it a good go. Completely stripped the motor, soaked it in white spirit, scrubbed it, soldered a connection back on and gave it new contacts. It ran a.fraction better but not a lot. Still grinding. Then he asked if I could build him a chassis. Hmm, opportunity, guinea pig time.....
     
    Taking what I learned from the J1 chassis I improved certain design features and attempted to print it on my own Robox 3D printer (RBX 02). For this reason it had no brake pads as they are a bit awkward to print. I also designed in a pivot point for a compensation beam as I had never tried compensation before so thought it good opportunity to do so. Articulated coupling rods were scratch built from some old code 100 rail filed to death and hinging on the centre crank pin. Wiper pick ups were arranged as per my current favourite method of top acting springing downwards.
     
    Best running chassis I think I built.
     
    So now that I thought it was time to build my first ever Thomas model I again took info from the previous build and improved it more. Again printed on my own printer minus brake pads.
     
    I conducted a lot of practical research for a perfect working clearance for both Romford/Markits & Alan Gibson bushes for the Bearing Carriers. If I remember correctly I set things up for compensation and the printed parts to give 0.4mm movement up or down. I may be wrong here so may check, been a while.
     
    Anyway here is the chassis unfinished...
     


     
    The white Nylon frame at top of picture is like a keeper plate that I later reprinted in the same material as the chassis. HD glass, a modified PETG. Basically water bottle plastic.
     
    I devised a simple bodge to make sure the Alan Gibson wheels were pressed on their axles properly. Variable speed battery powered mini drill in a vice! Not sophisticated....but I rarely am. The other wheels when pressed home with the GW Models quartering jig usually go on square but if not a bit of teasing usually sorts it.
     
    I checked my component tray named 'crank pins' and found I only had 3 Alan Gibson crank pins left. '######' I though, 'better ring Colin up' but sadly Colin was ill and was rightfully taking a break.
     
    Hmm.
     
    Well I had a few Romford/Markits crank pins still and I read that they can be used with Alan Gibson wheels. I was a wee unsure but found out it was hyper easy to do...drill the hole bigger. Cake.
     
    So this mongrel mutt has one side proper and one side bodged.
     
    The coupling rod in the pic is one of my SCC E2 rods in brass.
     
    So what gearing are we to use? I used a High Level Kits Road Runner + before in the first SCC E2 I xid but found I had to shave away a lot of material to fit it. However I used a drive extender in my Furness K2 loco and that worked great.
     
    So that was what I'd do again...
     

     
    But compensation needs articulated coupling rods and mine are fixed. ######!
     
    So I cut them in half and filed flats

     
    Then I soldered some scrap nickel silver to one side as an extension and drilled a hole where the join is to be. Proper place this time rather than on the crank pin. Never tried this.

     
    then you see here the other hole is drilled too

     
    The other hole was plotted by placing the rods in position to the correct wheelbase. E2's had an equal wheelbase of 8' + 8' so 32mms + 32mms. The first hole drilled became the jig for the second hole.

     
    I then soldered a 0.7mm brass rod in one of the holes to basically make a pin

     
    This was capped by an over sized Romford/Markits crank pin washer as it is all I had.
     
    Here is the chassis more complete. Compensation beams to my knowledge are supposed to go on top. I forgot this so put it underneath. Does it matter? I haven't changed it, reason below in the post.
     

     
    When adding the crew the Bachmann Scenecraft Fireman wouldn't fit. To remedy this I got another guy with an oil can, cut the oil can off and positioned him so it looks like he is grabbing the lever. Bit a shovel needs to be in the cab so I scatch bodged one from black emery paper, rod and scrap etch.
     


     
    A bit rough but not as rough as the cab interior and backhead. For future editions of the E2 I may make the backhead as a separate glue in piece as the print orientation wasn't the best and painting it neat in situe was a challenge so it looks a bit messy. Gauge controls I broke off so will sort that too.
     
    Shovel leaning against corner glued to wall crook at handle.

     
    So with that I painted the chassis black and added sand pipes. Wheels blue. Lining straights are HMRS 1mm / 3" lines. Curves and boiler bands are hand lined. I will be getting 0.75mm lines in future but good enough for now. Number ones are also hand painted. Porthole 'glass' is Krystal Klear glue. Whistle is a genuine brass SCC print.
     
    the rear windows should really have grills added but I fear the fiddle and finish ruination so might not bother.
     
    Thomas according to pretty much all the illustrations should have the open coal rail/stave rather than the fully enclosed type but never mind. Again for future revisions I may make and fit the open type to the model and provide the closed type in the file as an option. Cutting the frame type would be a LOT easier and less risky then if you wanted this type. Also may revise cab beading profile but these revisions will come later.
     
    Now to the best of my knowledge, Sodor is vacuum braked and not air braked. I have painted the Westinghouse air pump to fit with the model but maybe it needs to be removed??? ?? I'm unsure. I didn't add the pipe to the handrail area for this unsure reason. If anyone can give a solid case for it's removal then feel free. Just after accuracy.
     
    I will upload to Shapeways the brake pads as spares and fit them later.
     
    So apart from the above quibbles regarding coal rails and pumps this to my conclusion represents Thomas in about 1920 ish when he would have been purchased on the quiet. The 1960's rebuild will be made later some day. Personally the early Thomas would have been a straight Extended Tank E2, no front splashers and no front cab rectangular side windows and standard running pate curves. In fact the original version of Railway Series #2 'Thomas the Tank Engine' was illustrated by Reginald Payne and showed the character with side cab rectangular LINING instead of the window. It was only when Clarence Reginald Dalby revised the artwork he decided to 'poke' them out.
     
    You already had unfinished glimpses so below, bar the above improvements and bar the fact the smokebox dart is a temporary scratch build and bar the fact the smokebox door is plonked in at a wonky angle and bar the fact I need to remove some silver paint from the door seal.......deep breath.
     
    Well whatever.
     
    North Western Railway / NWR # 1 'Thomas' in 1920's guise...
     











     
    Displayed with some of my other SCC loco's and RTR bashes.



     
    Oh yeah. Loco body is a Shapeways FUD print and the rear coupling I forgot to mention is omitted until I decide what type to install.
     
    How does it run?
     
    Bloodly lovely. Never made a perfect runner before but this is darn close. Possibly the best runner I ever made. So will be taking this chassis development of mine further.
     
    What thinketh thou?
  4. Knuckles
    Update on the layout. I will be making a Video Log series but at the moment it's just Blog style.
     
    Been building the struts along the wall using roughly lengths cut to (mostly) 2 foot long. Some are a wee less but it doesn't matter that much if a few are a bit out as long as the surface is level. Me and Daddio been doing it and we've tried to get it as consistent as possible with the Spirit Level. I've had to wind him up a few times because we have a different idea on what is 'good enough' but I'm not taking any chances, especially with past mistakes and the affects of accumulative error. Something may be 1mm out and if so later along the way the level may be a full half inch out so doing what I can to eliminate re-work and bodges.
     
    SO, There is a main Battern along the wall screwed into Rawl Plugs, same for the struts going downwards, then there is the struts going horizontally outwards. They are joined by some 'L' brackets and finally another strut is cut at a 45 degree angle and screwed in.
     
    I personally do not think the diagonal piece is strong enough long term with just 1 screw at each end put in at a bodgy angle so I have added some straight brackets as support and at the base due to the wood being turned 90 degrees the other way I cut some scrap pieces and plugged them in to make everything flush. Brackets were then put on at different angles depending what side you look at - this in my mind should stop any twist and add a lot of extra strength.
     
    Betwixt each main triangular strut we have put in some more horizontal pieces furthest from the wall, staggered to allow a hand or drill to get in between them.
     
    Now this set along the back wall is not finished yet, we have 8 struts up so far but need 9 and more aforementioned strengtheners need to be added but after this the side will be done then the opposite side is a repeat process with some special considerations due to extra recesses besides the chimney boob...I mean breast.
     
    If you read that, well done if you understood it, if not the pictures hopefully should give the text some meaningful context, if not tough I guess!
     









     
     
     
    Should be able to support a Hippo when we're done.
     
    That's it for now, not amazingly interesting but it should get more interesting as progress is made.
  5. Knuckles
    The Knapford Junction plan is still a location I very much want to model but so is Tidmouth MPD and after literally over 5 years of constantly re-planning these two locations due to space restraints (planning started way before I joined Scale4) I feel strongly that my hand is forced to backslide a wee. Because my ambitions are big and I ultimately do know what I want for the 'proper' layouts I'm going to have to do them in 00.

    I didn't want to believe me, I mentally have been kicking and screaming over it but truth is unless I manage to somehow buy a house with a big enough room one day it's either do it in 00 or never bother hoping situations will change and it not happening. I'm working on the latter but who knows in today's world.

    Anyway, I'm not 'going back to 00' in the classical sense. It was always my plan to try out P4 and see how I get on and that has been accomplished with the 6ft x 1ft test plank I got half way through. I concluded that I'm capable of modelling in P4 and like it very much so I have a series of end to end P4 layouts in the planning that I can build on top of the 00 ones in the loft. To that end, for anyone who may be getting worried or thinking I'm now a heretic, relax! P4 is staying. It has also been my plan for a while to make a 00 layout anyway as I have zero desire to convert everything in my 00 collection and it would be nice to still run what I have again.

    For the big layout I have to do it in 00 or I can't do it at all, it's as simple as that. The tighter curves and points are sadly mandatory for me to fit everything in.

    Now, to still make the big layout hopefully better than normal 00 I will be building the majority of the turnouts with C&L templates to 00-SF, Peco's new Bullhead track may be used and the points look ok but at the price point I can't realistically use them because for the past 8 months I have only been working 2 days most weeks for Best Connection, give or take. Some weeks it is nothing or 1 day or 3 or 5, but my stipulation is 2-3 most weeks and that has been working out so far. I'm literally 'floating' my savings and scraping by. Self imposed so I can actually do stuff in life and give more time to things that I enjoy or find important and to give SCC a boost.

    So, cost is a major major consideration. I already have the P4 gauges but for the 00 stuff it'll be £60-70 at least for initial outlay according to the C&L website, plus I will be buying the point blade filing jig from our S4 stores, add rail, sleepers, timbers and chairs and I'm looking at around £150-200 for initial costs at least. Not a lot I know but when you are not even making that in a week it is a lot. I want to use full depth sleepers/timbers by the way, 1.6 or 1.5mm.

    So, progress likely won't be quick. Neither am I kidding myself, I know 10-20 years or more is likely what a project this big may take if I don't want it to look and operate like a bag of nails.

    To that end progress has been made in the loft doing the framework for the biggy plans. So far we are about 35% complete. I have added some brackets for extra strength. Maybe not needed but I feel better with the extra security. Carpentry isn't my skill so feel free to cringe.







    The plan is not (emphasis on not) to build the whole layout in one shot. The plan is to build just the tunnel section on the width and operate it as a stand alone layout by itself. Only if/when operation is satisfactory will I even consider moving on. Assuming the tunnels are built the rest of the baseboards will still be built but they will form a massive 'train set' fiddle yard area for the time being.

    So if I move on then I will proceed to the top of the plan to Knapford Junction that is more complex. I may build the double slips (I built a working single one after all, doubles bit trickier) or I may fag out and save up for Peco bullhead ones when they come out. Undecided.) So if I build Knapford the same applies, only if/when operation is good enough and I'm happy will I even think of proceeding so then Knapford and the tunnels will be 'the layout' and the rest of the baseboards again will be a fiddle yard and roundy roundy loop all plugged in train set style.

    Assuming I don't throw big Knux wobbily again I'll proceed on to Tidmouth MPD. Rather complex though so...yeah we'll see.



    But remember the 4ft x 1ft board I salvaged from the N layout I did? It can be extended to 4' 3". It has to be so small if it is to fit in my room.

    This I want to do before I do anything in 00 and I'm thinking to do it in P4 as yet another test plank.

    I need to revise my track building skills AND I want to try some new methods. I tried Tortoise point motors with the built in polarity switches and I have tried Gaugemaster PM1 solenoids for Peco track and concluded I like them both. However mixing them could be awkward if I wire the CDU to the Tortoises, I imagine barbecued shelled animals stuck to the baseboard. So, I want to try wire-in-tube or maybe similar method. I've always liked real feel signal box lever frames and I could try this, or try a slide switch for polarity with a mechanical linkage - would certainly save up on a TON of wiring and it could be used with RTP track or hand built simultaniously.

    Point rodding I have always wanted to model and so I want to do this too, maybe only cosmetically but I want at least some of it to work like on Minories or Brettel Road. I find this most inspiring and interesting. Despite me maybe being a glutton for punishment and asking for trouble I feel I'm already half way there as the previous P4 plank had two working angle cranks on. One was over scale and cranked the wrong way and the second was a scale Brassmasters one. Both operated the turnouts flawlessly with side acting rods. However it was a bodge and the pressures were not right.

    Either way I know if I want to even consider any of these options as is normal I can't research forever and I need to get on with it. The 4" 3' board then will be a test bed for this evaluation. If it goes tits up then not a major issue.

    Due to the space restraints I'm thinking of grabbing the bull by the horns and attempting a 3 tandem turnout. Would provide good revision and practice all in one and the new operating methods could be tried. Point rods again would be modelled one way or another. Operating if possible.

    I understand I am potentially setting myself up for yet more frustrating and painful falls but the heart wants to get on with it. Any help, suggestions or anything appreciated. If you bothered and endured this whole ready my gratitude goes out to you.

    Will scrape a small loco and few wagons to shunt.

  6. Knuckles

    Micro Plank Designs?

    By Knuckles,

    As I'm now layoutless again I have decided to build a tiddler above my bed. Any input or ideas would be appreciated. So far thinking along these (railway) lines...
     

    I'm now thinking of doing a series of micro layouts to iron out ballseybodgycockupadoodoowz could you please provide ideas on the following designs. I found I actually have just over 4' overall so that helps a little. If I decide to do this in 4mm rather than N then...
     

     
    They are the track plans I'm thinking of doing. Any ideas on this, track tweaks or scenery theme?
  9. Knuckles
    Doubting this post will interest many for a variety of reasons but I feel it deserves to be explained fully.
     
    A few days ago I ripped the layout up.
     
    P4 too hard for me? Giving up? Nope, neither. All is explained below.
     

    I originally designed the layout to utilise the P&C already built rather than build some new points. I built it as a typical P4 test plank as is traditional to get a feel for things, make mistakes on, experiment with new ideas, provide a photographic backdrop and provide some light hearted not too serious modelling. To that end it has served it's purpose beautifully.
     
    So why did I finally get rid of it salvaging only the point motors, switches, electro magnets and the underpass?
     
    For several reasons really. The main one being the fact that upon initial construction I had no flat surface to construct it on so the 6mm plywood construction (too thin IMO) was looking more like the running plate of a cauliflower, as a result in my enthusiasm I fixed up a levelling bodge using balsa wood and foam topping. This ironed out most of the faults yet as expected caused many running issues.
     
    Most of the layout ran fine but there were a select few areas that caused constant issues much of the time. Fixes included partly rebuilding half a turnout, adding extra check rails, grinding the rails, bending the rails etc. Many of these took several attempts or only worked for a while until they needed looking at again or something else would play up.
     
    I decided to to go to gown with it after experiencing some unexpected gauge narrowing. Upon discovering this I marked all problem areas with a black marker and opened the gauge. This was done either by slicing the chairs between the sleepers and re-gluing or in the single slip and a few areas where this wasn't possible a file and scalpel did the trick. The latter was more effective for getting the meat off.
     
    Most of it was ironed out and things were running better than they had, except there was one area that was impossible to fix no matter how much retrofitting I tried, the baseboard and trackbed relationship (not to mention vertically bent rails) was just too bad to correct without relaying 50% of the track work.
     
    It was at this point I decided to call it a day, so destruction started with a calm blank faced almost psychotic chewing up of the track with the pliers already in my hand. My don't plywood sleepers look realisticly bombed when raked through! The track plan was essentially two 'Inglenooks' end to end which was fine, I enjoyed shunting it but a run around was most desirable. Had the running been better I would have likely bared with it.
     
    Now, the big questions are; is P4 for me, have I enjoyed the experiment, what did I learn and what is the future?
     
    Having a crack at P4 is without doubt a choice I do not regret. I have now evaluated things enough to decide that another layout is pretty much in my mind a given. P4 has its disadvantages to that of other scales and standards but then they all do, I am one who has been suckered in mainly by the better looking track and wheels more than anything and still nothing in 4mm quite compares to it. I may be a bit odd but for reasons I can't explain seeing a load of beautifully constructed track work excites me and gives a type on mental pleasure nothing else does. Have several designs for future layouts.
     
    To answer the second and third question, I have enjoyed the experience but I have also found it very frustrating. The learning curve from a crude 00 modeller aspiring towards finescale is asking a lot but then that is EXACTLY why I signed up. To learn new things and better myself. What I produced in my (and no doubt some of your minds) wasn't a finescale layout, but rather a crude, not too serious muck about layout that just happened to have P4 track and stock. As I say, the main attraction for me currently is the track and wheels, higher calibre modelling in other forms comes with time.
     
    What did I learn so far in P4 venture?
     
    Ooh just a few things, how to build track, greatest achievement so far being the hand build B7 LH turnout into a single slip, all crossings and blades hand built using no jigs other than graph paper and a 1 in 7' angle drew onto it and rail 'supported' by the old modellers faithful friend......Bluetack.
     
    This was for me a massive win, especially as loco's and stock ran through it.....95% of the time. Hey, come on, first attempts and all that.
     
    Support on the forums for my track building efforts (other threads) were well appreciated and I was even surprised to be honoured a place in Will L's column in the magazine linking to a Slink link.
     
    I also learned how to convert and spring some wagons, different kits and RTR items need different methods and I found building a wagon kit straight into P4 was sometimes easier. A few loco's have been converted and built into P4. I learnt how to wire a layout at least one way, this literally was my first ever attempt to wire a layout up. Previous 00 layouts had 1 track feed and Mr Hand operated the plastic frogged points...eugh.
     
    This time I tried Tortoises and I like them.
     
    Learning to correct faults and try different fixes in situe was not the easiest or most satisfying activities but for possible future issues that may arise hopefully the experience gained will come in handy later.....hopefully not. To avoid gauge narrowing maybe utilising some track rivets every 4 or 5 sleepers and on key turnout areas will fix it. It could have been the oil drying up in the functional chairs or it could have been the rust issues. Either way I'm interested in giving DCC Concepts stainless steel rail a fair trial. Soldering it doesn't scare me.
     
    Bodging in a working 009 crossover into P4 C&L flexible track (not the best option) with nothing but a photograph on my mates iPad was another big win for me. I even have a video on YT if you are interested.
     
    Another thing learnt since launching SCC was how to design loco kits that account for different gauges. A YT video of my Furness J1 can be seen running on this layout as proof.
     
    So, not much of a loss at all in my view. I have gained so much from having a crack. The biggest downfall was the most basic, and that is getting a flat baseboard too to begin with.
     
    I'm looking forward to my next P4 layout. It likely won't be Knapford Junction just yet although as a future biggy that is a dream layout I'm now thinking might be better in a different house with more room. Rather than trying to cram everything in this loft thoughts are turning towards maybe getting a mortgage for more suitable layout space.
     
    As I am interested in different scales for different purposes I'm currently building my first N gauge layout. I have not posted much on S4 as it doesn't belong, but other than SCC and working a 10 hour night shift that is what I have been up to on the modelling side of things.
     
    Rather than cram up the loft with double decker roundy roundy's I'm thinking of staying with end to ends until I move out. This way I can breath and try new things easily.
     
    I am unsure what my next move is though, after this N gauge first attempt it might be an 0 gauge one, or another P4 or 00-SF, I don't know.
     
    The latter is interesting me as the track still looks pretty good but seems a good idea as a gap filler.
     
    I have not had any proper layout to operate since 2011 and with so much 00 stock I don't intend converting it all.
     
    If I was go build a 00-SF layout I could increase my track building progress and provide a platform to play with. In the mean time I could be building a P4 layout too and the 00 stock that I like the most in due time can be 'promoted' to P4 either as a conversion, or even better; a separate P4 chassis so it can run on both layouts.
     
    By the time I have built one or 2 of these layouts I may be rich and experienced enough to go for the dream roundy roundy's in a new property.
     
    So that is the story so far. P4 is staying, I just don't know what order to build things in as I refuse to stick to only one scale.
     
    Variety is the spice of life as they say.
     
    If you could be bothered to wade through all that drivel and if you got something from it, please say so.
     
    It's took a long time typing it on my touch screen 'phone and if I had a C&L chair donated to me for every time I hit 'back' to correct a typo I'd have enough for a new layout. Please let me think it was worth the typing effort!
     
    Knux out.
  11. Knuckles
    Bit of a slightly mad one this, I was awake for a very long time so I hope you'll forgive me for being groggy and slightly bonkers all at once, wasn't in my best of minds being awake almost 40 hours (by the end of the night it was) so there you go!
     
    If you want to see the other parts again find them via the YT channel. I don't post many because not many of you post on my stuff so I lack motivation to do so.
     
    Anyway, part 15...
     

  15. Knuckles
    Here is a massive paste of the construction for Fury. I'm still getting used to the layout of RMweb so forgive my shotgun method of posting if it's crap. Please forgive the 2nd nature of the below posts. It's all compiled from the other forums but now presented here for you.
     
     
     
     
    I have started with Bachmann's parallel boiler Royal Scot model as a base. The model is nice enough but a little lacking in detail and proportion if you ask me, but never mind. I removed most of the detail and pipes etc and a boiler band. I used balsawood to make rough formers for the one peice plasticard wrapping. The formers have been filed to shape and the wrapping..well, wrapped around! Took a few attempts to get it looking right which is why there are a few chronological errors in the pictures. The pictures show up all the bad points but it'll be ok in the end, at the cab it is too high as shown but it presses down, just need to fix it. This is i think the most important peice of the whole structure, as long as I get this right everything else will follow.
     
    More plasticard and Evergreen strip is on it's way in the post.
     
    As new

     

     

     
    Detail removed and formers added
     

     

     

     

     

     
    Wrapping
     

     

     

     
    -----------------
     
    Ok guys, the top of the firebox cab join is in process of being fixed. It's been glued down and I'm now waiting for the miliput to dry so I can shape and file it all smooth - I had to fill a few holes in where the thin plasticard dishaped itself slightly due to the glue. it's looks a terrable mess currently but I know once I'm done it will be fine. You may also notice the sides of the wrap around at the front have been extened by roughly 1.5mm's, the join is visible on the photographs, made sure of that. It would help if I had a proper paper scale drawing on my desk to set my calipers to but I haven't so for now I am estimating by eye from photpgraphs and scale'ish' drawings on computor screen. i still rekon when all is completed it'll be fine though. Seeing as the base model isn't amazingly accurate in scale and proportion I don't think it will turn out too bad! We'll have to see.
     
    I have already explained the work on the firebox wrap around so I will continue with the other bits, in hindsight though I think a think brass wrap around would have been far better, but never mind. Always learning.
     
    Currently looks dire, but wait until it's done.

     
    Look at photographs and drawings it seems the bufferbeam needs extending. This being thecase I wished to retain the steps that are moulded onto the whole body. A series of careful scores with a Swan Morton scalpel blade (handel number 3) followed by a few underneith cuts did the trick better than i could have hoped. Usually when I remoeve detail i destroy it, but seeing as I wished to retain this detail I had to try this out - win.
     

     

     
    Next it was a case of brutality, bye bye!
     

     
    Roughly where the bufferbeam should be when finished.
     

     
     
    Edit: After reading this I noticed it's full of typo's but I cannot be bothered to amend things yet.
     
    --------------
     
    A mini bashing lesson.
     
    I was hoping to have more done at this set of pictures but I need more time to decide how to do the dome.
     
    the front of the new firebox is almost done, as you can see on the left side that part is finished, to achieve that you cut a bit of plasticard roughly, as long as the curve matches the boiler your laughing.

     

     
    Once glued snip the excess

     

     

     
    then file it to get it smooth and flush like the left side, easy.
     
    The middle is neglected because the dome is going there, so I didn't care to it much as the gap will be covered.
     
     
    These pics also show the firebox irregularities, these are being sorted with more filler now. For this job Humbrol Model Filler is being used instead this time as it's more suited to this job over Milliput IMO. Coming along though. Next pics should be the dome modelled.
     
    ---------------
     
    I have been working on the firebox wrap around a fair bit, filling and filing etc. Only problem is it looks like nothing has been achieved, but I asure you it has. More work still needed there though.
     
    Dome has been started. Balsa wood formers cut roughly and superglued in place and my favorite on top. Milliput.
     
    I was going to use this green bogey putty thing that Simon suggested but haven't. (I do intend getting some though)
     
    The rough shape of the dome has been wet sculpted and I'm waiting for it to dry, then it's just a case of dry sculpting it into the correct shape. Because I have purposely made it too big means I can file back carefully into shape with more room for error. Must admit, I'm looking forward to this one, sculpting is another skill I literally found myself to be a natural at with pretty much no practice, much to the amazement of half the school and myself. I'll have to show you all one day what it was.
     
    Anyway, progress....
     



     
    -----------------------
     
    I present the DOME! It's not quite finished but it might aswell be, basically it's finished but I keep tweaking it, and it needs a tad of filler at the firebox. The firebox still needs work because it's evidently still uneven in places, but it'll be ok in the end. The dome has been sculpted out of the dried Milliput with scalpel, files and emery/glass paper stuff. It isn't perfect in profile or indeed perfectly even, but I'm pretty happy with the result, especially considering this was a 100% scratch build done by eye only. The front of the dome can be sculpted backward if need be for positioning of the boiler band. Different drawings and photographs seem to differ as to exact positioning and the base model I'm using doesn't match all of the reference material in a single configuration against other components to correctly plot the position, but we will get by.
     
    This might have took an hour and a half, it might have took 3, I really am not sure, was in a world of my own! I remember looking at the cock at about 3 and thinking 12 was the last I saw, but I'm unsure. It's been a rather absorbing session.
     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    I love Milliput, it's my baby
     
    8-)
     
    -------------------
     
    I have spent an hour or 3 modelling and am fairly pleased with what has been done.
     
     
    The running plate has been extended and just needs the frame support things scratch built, the steps adding and the sides cleaned up with the lip added. Guess work using a veriety of sources.
     
    the stripes down the side have been a fair challenge to get right; they aren't bang on but I am happy enough. I have no scale drawings to work off on paper and the base model isn't perfectly accurate as I keep saying, so I'm pleased anyway.
     
    Plotting the 2 outermost stripes have been (like most the model) guess work and estimation based on the photographs and drawings of Fury on my computor. I think I would have atained a better result had I used thinner plasti' strip rather than 1mm wide, but I'll crack on with it anyway. Looking at multiple drawings it seems that the gap format between stripes from the cab forward is, Fat, Thin, Thin, Fat.
     
    I've estimated this with these caliper things shown in the pictures using increments of 10, 8, 8, 10. I don't know the names of those increments as they were based on inches. The reason for this is because the increments were easier to plot the 2 standards in relation to each other. Black marker and a scratch from the calipers did the job.
     
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
    Not perfect, but I rekon a pass. Fairly happy.
     
     
    8-)
     
    -------------------------
     
    The smokebox sides have been cut out, was a real pain being roughly 5mm's thick.
     

     
    Here I have added what I think are hinges and latches for firebox access plus scored out the panel lines that are seen on some pictues.
     

     

     
    The pump has been started. I tried Milliput at 1st but it didn't look right so I have got some 6mm Balsa wood cylinder and filed it down abit, then it has been wraped in plasticard. Looks crude currently.
     

     
    Pump start plonked for photographic idea of result

     

     
    Cab roof has had vent and slide removed in preparation for 2 smaller ones. unsure if these rivets need removal also. Any info welcome.
     

     
    Next dome has been started with Milliput and Modelfiller, need to do the smaller one after also.
     

     
    Bogey wheel arches / Frame extensions have been remodelled and..well, extended to fall in line with the plans. The gaurd irons will be added after to complete the look.
     

     

     
    Overall impressions
     

     

     
    -
     
    maybie it doesn't look that much different, but alot has been done.
     
    ---------------------
     
    Another update. The main drum on the pump is now on it's 3rd attempt, but I'm much happier with this one. Evergreen plastic strip helped as they do cylinders. So I used 6.3mm tubing I think it was. Other than that I have about completed all 3 domes now. The 2 small ones need a mini tweak but are basically complete. They just need the smallest bit of filler and smoothening out. The straight dome was made using a bit of plastic card glued down, and then model filler around the edges - easy.
     
    Ignore the multitude of file scratchings, it looks worse than it is. Still feels smooth.
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
    --------------------
     
    I've reduced dome sizes and dressed the long one forward abit. These pics do not show them in polished form as I haven't even sculpted them to shape yet, but just to give you an idea.
     

     

     
    Apart from the lack of sculpting how's it looking there? Please compare it to the above posts to see changes better.
     
    -------------------
     
    Ding ######
     
    Pumps are 98% complete and the domes re now also 98% complete. Apart from the usual shape tweaks consider them finished.
     



    Long mini dome complete, the other small one is almost done but looks rather like a fairy cake here. Will be sorted.





     
    Yeah, getting there.
     
    --------------------
     
     
    My Evergreen pipes have arrived. First one has been bent to shape and glued on, bracket scratch built as per the drawings. Abit crude, but I'm rather happy with the impression it gives. It's just abit of scrap strip glued to the boiler, the pipe glued to that, and then a longer strip glued on top and bent around it, rather like the real Omega Brackets (or whatever they are called).
     




     
    ------------------
     
    Super Update!
     
    Bet your all in a FURY with me having no update for over a month. Hahaha, No? No, I didn't find it funny either, I'm just typing crap while the pictures uplaod. Anyway, erm, yes, update...
     
    Haven't modelled much in the past month due to a multitude of personal problems that I'm overwhelmed by, but never mind that for now. been modelling this morning and authough things arn't bang on I'm happy enough.
     
    Original side hand rails are added but with the hand rail pillars moved and also another rail in 7mm brass, I didn't have any pillars for these so I cheated by drilling the hole out until they snaped leaving just a cresent, then soldering a blob to represent the ball of the pillar! Easy.


     
    I hope you can see these shots of the box things at the side of the smoke box saddle, I drilled a hole in them for the brass wires.


     
    3 pillars were slid onto this 0.45mm brass wire. Perfect for hand rails and I think it is a standard size. It's what I always use anyway and the pillars rarely need reaming out to fit. Brass wire bent into shape and pillars added.

     
    Wire fittted, was a swine to locate, bit of a fight.


     
    On the horizontal drum on top of the pump you may just be able to see I have drilled a hole. I then made a plastic square.

     
    The square was trimmed and drilled to take another brass wire/pipe.

     
    Pipe fitted with one hand rail pillar. I had to rebend it slightly to match the profile so these pis arn't consistant.



     
    This urm..thing needed a tweak so I drilled a hole in to accept more wire, this time 7mm.

     
    Which was then fitted onto the boiler side with a bit of shaped brass that links to the main brass pipe. Another small square has been added to the smokebox side.



     
    Angles arn't 100% perfect but good enough. Components and bends are a tad overscale I'd say. You may also notice the whole thing is badly gummed up with glue, but I know from previous experience not to worry as I can clean it up pretty well prior to painting. Also need rivets and more detail as it isn't all added yet.
     
    Final impressions thus far.



     
    8-)
     
    --------------------
     
    Another mini update linked to the one above. The plastic box that is under the main pump drum was positioned about 1.5-2mm's too close to the running plate edge. So I have bent the wire away and removed the boxes, used a slitting disk to destroy the plastic and then fitted the boxes closer inside. This time I used a bit of PCB instead as the thickness was about perfect. Also a comparison of the prototype to see accuracy. Compare.
     



     
     
    -
     
     
    EDIT: Another update!
     
    More pipe work added. Please forgive the glue, will be cleaned up later.
     

     

     

     
    Other than 1 pipe and a few rivets, this side is about done. 5 amp fuse wire was used for the baby pipes. They are mounted on a plasticard disc I made with a trimmed plastic handrail pillar popped into a pre drilled hole.
     

     
    --------------------
     
    Update! And this time it's interesting.
     
    I drilled a hole in some plastic tube, and then drilled a fatter hole in also. Then I had to make some thin brackets and bobs to bash mock valve gear additions. The valve gear the model comes with has a special coating on so that needed scraping off to adhere to the solder and flux. Being a material less suited to what I have I had the iron on 450c to actually make it all work. But it does so I'm happy, see what you think. Brass rod formed the piston. The best thing about this is, it actually works with zero problems.
     
    Also I have added a 'lump' to the main dome, added the lamp irons, steps and gaurd irons. The lamps may be trimed a tad though but unsure yet.
     

     
    IN

     
    OUT

     
    There is alot of excess solder on that as you can see, so I might file it away later.
     
    Impressions

     

     
    Jobs to do:
     
    Solder tender together.
    Clean body work up.
    Prime it all.
    Add the rivet transfers (on top of the primer).
    Paint it.
    Line it.
    Add front coupling and brake/vacuum pipe.
    Add cylinder drain pipes.
    -
     
    I'm still naffed off with the incorrect drum height but I think I'll leave that for now, 'MIGHT' do it one day if I can get the heart to, but if I do that will be after the competition/meet up.
     
    8-)
     
    ------------------------
     
     
    Last set of pictures before completion.
     
    The tender I actually made a pigs ear of. Gordon's (My 1st brass soldering kit) went together rather nicely. James's (my 2nd) I hardly read the instructions and that went together fine also. This one however went together badly, reason? I didn't look at the instructions much! But unlike before I made some stupid mistakes......complacency. As a result I soldered the tender sides on the wrong way, this means I had to fill the drilled holes out and then drill new holes on the opposite side. This wasn't a problem but because the insides of the sides are different it caused complications and the back peice wouldn't go on properly and was, as an estimate, about 1-1.5mm's too far back! I fixed this by going evil with a tough file and eating it away. The back peice then went on better but was too high requiring me to chop it at the top and then add a brass rod to reinstate the 'lp'. The gaps were filled with thick solder blobs and then filed/sculpted to shape, consequently the dimensions are abit out in places but the good thing is it isn't that obvious. I'm happy with the repair bash.
     
    The other problem was the plate you stand on was soldered in the wrong place, I couldn't unsolder it because it was stuck fast so I had to force it out with pliers. This cockled the tender sides badly.
     
    Filling and filing solder just made it worse so I have had to use Humbrol Model Filler, looks ok now. (didn't photograph that bit!)
     
    The moral of the story? Over confidance and complacency can get you in trouble, read the instructions. Still, I got some great bash practice in and I'm really happy with the result, it didn't beat me.
     
    Loco and tender connector is crude but it's my preferable way of joining it. Literally a crude loop and hook. Gordon rolls nicely like this with no problem. Also the fall plate and doors are abit of scrap plastic card. Everything in this paragraph looks rough and I haven't bothered making it neat, this is because once it's painted it's hard to tell, especially as it's all 'in' the cab area. I don't mind the lack of perfection but if it looks naff after paint then I'll tweak it - easy.
     
    Ok, pictures below. The only things left are to add the whistle, rivets, front coupling and brake pipe, paint and line. That literally is it, can't wait.
     

     

     

     

     

     
    That's it, other pics are the completed pics.
     

     
     
     
     
  16. Knuckles
    PFfwwwwouuf PFfwwwwouuf ppooofff.

    Just blowing the dust off this blog.

    Right then, what follows isn't 'quite' a turnout, but it sort of is as what is shown 'turned out' and the formation...turns out. I'll leave the correct terminogy for those of you who know better as I'm still picking things up.

    A dear friend of mine, sadly distant and rarely seen due to geography came down for a few days and we had a lot of fun (and frustrations!) bodging up a 009-P4 crossover with nothing but a single photograph and a home made 9mm track gauge from an RTR wagon weight. Call it P4-09?

    Mixing standards isn't clever I know so I want no whinging from the purists! Ok? Good. You know I don't always follow convention and I just go for it sometimes, deciding myself what I go to town with for accuracy and what I just bodge, railway modelling should be fun so here we go.

    Ok, 009 track built using cut down half depth plywood sleepers, C&L & Exactoscale chairs and Butanone. Tops of chairs had to be shaved with a knife after.

    Some of the formation was bodged (love that word) in to C&L flexti track - the most awkward choice but it was already laid so existing chairs were either shaved off or smoothed over with a soldering iron. I don't lie when I say I bodged it.

    Super glue was used when things got awkward, making the chairs for the check rails meant they had to be Rizla paper thin as I couldn't alternate build them with the stock rails like you should owing to the fact some of the track was RTR. If I was making this from scratch and I had lots of time I would have got a proper template and did it at the desk with some TLC but seeing as we had a night and a bit together it was a rush job built in situ - very good for an aching back.

    So what do we do about the 009 gauge? I made one out of PCB but it didn't turn out so well thus I found an old RTR wagon weight, scribed some lines 9mm's apart, squeezed it between my mini vice and abused it with a hacksaw. Crude but effective.

    Eeeyz Good Iniit...


    The Common Crossing / V / Frog / Toad / Pointy thing was again bodged up with nothing more than me hovering over the formation with two bits of rough cut rail, positioning them so they 'look good' and then remembering what it looked like and subsequently transferring them to the desk and trapping them between some track pins as a crude jig. Cutting angles were estimated and they were tack joined with solder before test fitting. Took 3 attempts until I was happy - wasn't quite as hard or impossible as I thought it would be. Finesse!

    The 3 rough crappy bits are where my mini disk slipped for the insulation breaks and made a mess of things, on top of that it is now overtly evident I need to source a much finer disk blade as this one puts gaps in the track wide enough for a squirrel to stretch out between. I filled the gaps with some plastic card cut into bodge blocks, superglued in and (you guessed it) smoothed out briefly with a soldering iron then finished with files. It looks bad but serves as a nice bodge.

    The flange way gaps for the 009 bits were estimated using the P4 check rail gauge but made to be a very sloppy fit. I didn't have a 0.76mm gauge and 009 is a bit more crude as a standard and again we didn't have much time so.....yeah. Works! Sod it.

    Sleepers were interlaced. Why? I really don't know, think I was trying to be clever or an idiot. Probably the latter, in hindsight I should have just extended the existing ones but the obvious wasn't to me at the time, oh well. As this cross over was an experiment on a whim aesthetics can take the back seat. I did (am doing) this P4 layout (plank) as a test and experiment so it was the perfect canvas for such escapades.

    Am I off my compensation rocker? Up to you to decide. You can say I haven't a clue what I am doing but it works and I learnt how to bodge in situ in less than ideal conditions.
    Finished result. Could it have been neater, more prototypically accurate and all that? You bet.
    Do I care? Nope.
    Am I happy with it? Yup.

    Construction pics and finished pics. That switch I had to wire up doesn't stand for North and South, but rather Standard and Narrow!




















    For a Video VLOG explaining and actually filming the construction of this crossing please watch the following link.


  17. Knuckles
    Well well well, it's been a while hasn't it?
     
    My small 1FT x 6FT P4 layout (Ok exalted test plank) has been gathering much dust. A layout of this size people typically complete in 2 months but I've been at it 4 or whatever years due to other commitments and bone idleness.
     
    So here is an update. The area that was going to be a railway bridge, I said I buggered prospects of that up in an earlier entry due to the Dingham electro-magnets being in the way (Lack of planning!). As a result I turned it into a pedestrian subway.
     
    Now it makes sod all sense unless the subway was cut before the railway but I don't care. This layout is a flexible testing ground for new ideas and experimentation, light hearted modelling at a whim. So...
     

     

     
     
     
    As a 1st attempt at rocks I'm pleased with how easy and effective it was.
  18. Knuckles
    How to bash them to look almost as realistic as scale couplings in a train.
     
    I have a handful of wagons converted with Dingham's and so far am happy with the result, they operate well once you've got the hang of making them and compared to some other couplings they don't look too wrong in comparison, not to mention the fact that they are compatible with 3-link, Instanter and Screw scale couplings. I'm a little unhappy with the way the iron droppers look however, so what follows is an experiment to try to improve things visually.

     
    So from the usual set up I swapped the iron wire for steel Slaters 3-links instead, bent the brass pivot dropper into a shape that would move the chain further forward and upwards. This looks a little more realistic than it dangling too far rear and under. I had to make sure that the dropper eye didn't foul the buffer-beam and that the curved 'elbow / apex' could move enough forward before it hit the lift restraint tab.

     
    As in the picture, the new shape of the brass dropper looks a little like a 4th link, and in better lighting than the picture - more so. Upon testing it functioned fine. I thought I'd further experiment by shaping the brass dropper into a link, and then fix 2 links to that instead of 3, thus looking like 3 links and not 4. Result was visually perfect, but functionally naff. The brass dropper has to protrude back a small amount to give it the 'see-saw' effect we need for operation.
    So before I tried the 2 link version, this is what the 3 linked version looked like.

     
    After the 2 link failure I reverted to the 3 link version, only this time instead of putting the initial link back in the eye (that was abused out of shape!) I decided to actually bend the brass dropper into a slight curve to retain it. This also pushed the chain forward slightly visually improving things.

     
    As described in the picture I didn't have a latched end without links but regardless...

     
    Tadah! Works as well as a standard one! I tried it on the move also, and fine. The instructions said you can't fit links to the looped end. Oh well, this is why I said before I rarely take peoples words as truth without investigating things first, obviously you can. (with a slight redesign)
    In my view this has been a fun experiment and one that has worked. In doing so I (we?) can now have a magnetically operated, fully coupled train that finally looks almost as good as scale 3-links, and yet is still compatible with them.
    A wagon sitting on a siding with a latch but no links might look a little lacking, but the instructions said the links were optional anyway. I'm repeating myself.
    Well, please comment if you like this or have further ideas.
  19. Knuckles
    More pastes! This is my first working brass model and a kit bash to boot. It does work but I have a new cahassis ready becasue I want to make it run better.
     
    Tender doors? Not many pics with it on James, plus in real live they were not always on.
     
    Paint messy in places, had a drama with it because it is a gloss, I hate gloss paint as a base, but it is good enough for me for now, maybie with varnidshes and washes I can fix it later.
    I haven't weathered James yet, brake dust and running plate gray etc, the funel is plonked on because of smoke gen so might be abit 'off' in some pics. The boiler and dome however ARE off, had a problem when building it so the angles are dodgy, luckily though you will only see it in some pics. Oh yeah, the safety valves are bent aswell, no ones perfect!
     
    Runs ok, good enough as you seen by the test vid' before.
     
    Haven't put balance weights on because I can't see any on the real loco, plus the kit had none so unless I find out later, it has none. Class 27's are a different story apparently. Also the Hughes Class 28 had 5' 1" wheels, I've bashed mine to have 5' 6" wheels as Wilbert Awdry said. (Wander if the real James did, Si'?) I've also reshaped the cab windows and the splashers, the 4 stand alone splashers are completely scratch built, plus lots of other things mensioned before in the threads. Still need to make a face or 50. This model isn't perfect by any means, but it's my 1st brass soldering kit and it works and it is a kit bash, so I'm bloody happy enough!
     
    Extra boiler band to what you are used to seeing also.
    Still needs worksplates, anyone help?
     
    So without further adoo (spelling?) may I present to the world:
     
     
     
    NWR#5 THE REAL JAMES
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    YEAH!
     
     
  20. Knuckles

    Advice Needed on Threads

    By Knuckles,

    Hello all, just a quick question as I'm really struggling to get my bonce around this one.
     
    I put the initial SCC advert vid in this blog as I know some of you read it. But I also put a thread in the smaller suppliers trade section and I also put a thread in the 3D printing section.
     
    Now this isn't to be a pest and over do the "take a look" thing to new heights of redundancy but honestly where is it best put because the 3D printing section makes perfect sense but so does the trade area.
     
    So is it ok to have it in 2 areas?
     
    Further to this I was thinking of creating my own SCC blog aswell as the P4 one sooo....
     
     
    Ugh. Any advice would greatly be appreciated!
  23. Knuckles

    IMPORTANT MESSAGE BELOW!

    By Knuckles,

    Greetings. If you have been wondering why my online activity and especially my modelling threads on the forums have been quiet you are about to find out why.
     
    If over the years you have ever appreciated my locomotive modelling, kit bashing and related video's then you don't want to miss the next two video's I upload, especially if you are a railway modeller. Seriously...
     
    I've quietly been working 8 or 9 months almost straight on a secret project known only to a select few.
     
    Very soon you will all know what it is and maybe experience it. The latter half will be your choice.
     
    Ok. Expect the 2 video's very soon.
     
    Knux out.
  24. Knuckles
    Like the first A0 Gordon, this one is also my second version of Gordon MK II.
     
    Pastes:
     
    -
     
    Gordon 1939 Crewe Rebuild - MK II
     
    Based and modelled from Simon and Sean's research as close as I could. I just hope it doesn't disapoint after all this time, I have tried hard on it as I always do. I can never help but pick myself up though. :
     
    From an older picture you may have seen I have revised those cylinder drain cocks as to my mind they were too high, so now they are squashed together abit more and I think they look more realistic, they have been weathered ever so slightly too. They are abit bent in areas but I can live with that, making them is a fiddle anyway. This time too I have made the running plate curve steps with foot grip. I was going to use brass but found convincing enough plasticard, it wasn't the pattern I was looking for but it serves. better than flat anyway. Some areas look abit rougher now that the photo's have zoomed things in abit but it's not a big deal. Also on this version I have painted the cab windows brass instead of yellow ever so thinly, especially the side ones, I was skeptical at first but am now convinced this is more correct. Erm, erm, oh yeah, as usual it's had a super mild weathering, hardly noticable though. If there is anything more to do to it I suppsoe it would be more neatening and a smoke generator (to do later anyway but doesn't effect look much) and maybie if I go DCC a decoder. So it's finished pretty much.
     
    Something else but it's hard to see, on the buffers I layered paint in a blobby fashion with various greasy coloures, then squashed them when half dry to get a 3D squashed grease effect you get on buffers. I like the look to be honest, authough I do wander if they would get that bad on Gordon.
     
    I might cut the cylinder cock length yet and the eccentric crank bracket thingy is scratch built in 8F style.
    Smokebox door on slightly wonky in these pics, but ignore that.
     
     
    Hope you like it.
    it's another box ticked on my list.
     
     


























     
    8-)
     
     
    EDIT: I fotfot to paint the cab steps blue! Always something, *sigh*, I'll do it later, at least it's minor.
  25. Knuckles
    To those on RMweb - I haven't updated this in a long time, less than at S4 because it took ages to work out how to paste due to RMweb making things a pain in the ass, so if you want to catch up you'll have to pop over to S4.
     
     
     
    I haven't done much modelling for AGEEEES. I haven't been in the mood much and have had other things on the go that take priority, I have been doing a little bit of kitbashing and scratch building some loading dock but other than that not much.
     
    I went Warley the other day on the Sunday and brought a few bits, the focus of this write up is the instillation of a compensating rocker unit into a Bachmann tank wagon that was a bit of a pig, and the improvement of a rather (in my eyes) crude 0 gauge wagon I picked up for a wee £15. Bargain.
     
    So, P4 item first...
     

    The pictures and text should be pretty clear what I did.
     

     
    And now the 0 gauge item that only cost £15. I'm not an 0 gauge modeller but I've always wanted a go so every now and then I'm dipping into it too. It is possible for me to squeeze two model railways into my loft if I want, not massive ones but one can go above the other if I decide to do 0 gauge as well. I'm interested also in Scale7 but my opinion of the official website is best not expounded upon, suffice to say there is pretty much no useful information on there and I don't know where to look for relevant info, mainly, how to get wheels other than self laith work and what benefits does a member have?
    People needn't worry about me 'defecting' or anything. I'm sticking to P4 but may also do 0 or S7 one day, no harm in modelling more than one scale right?
     
    Ok so here it is, the 0 gauge model from Skytrex.
     

     
    Is it a kit or an RTR example? I don't know, what I do know is it leaves much to be desired.
    Those brackets inside the body are horrid but I'm leaving them be as the removable coal load is my answer to that. The wheel flanges are over the top large AND uneven to almost a full millimetre in places. What the hell is going on? This is beyond poor. I mini drilled the flanges but a full blown replacement may be the best option.
     
    The mouldings in most places are ok but a little thick and chunky, I sanded down the wood grain in areas too.
     
    Ok, what I detest is the brake gear, I'm no expert on brake gear and in P4 I have a nightmare trying to find out what to replace things with, but even 00 RTR examples are more accurate than this.
     
    1) What the heck is with the horrid LUMP that is supposed to be 2 separate 'V' hangers?
     
    2) Is that supposed to be a brake lever in it's locking housing? (My term as I don't know the proper name) It's way too thin and is moulded inside it. Not convincing even from a distance. Baaaaad!
     
    What to do about it...

     
    I painted it and weathered it severely but even then the brake gear looks horrible. So...
     

     
    V hangers we neatened up. This may be somewhat extreme but there you go, to me this is nothing short of idleness in design, not that I'm a design expert because I am not but some 00 gauge models are better in accuracy than this.
     
    Now on to the other abomination, what can we do about it?
     

     
    Finito! It may be a bit inaccurate and chunky as is just my bodging, BUT! it's more accurate than it was. (In my opinion) I also on this side painted replacement planks into the model. I just like the look to be honest.
     

     
     
    Ok, hope you enjoyed this instalment of mine for what has been a long time and and I hope it helps. I'm sure the bodge can be done in any scale.
     
    Good day to you all.
    Comments welcome, good or bad.
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