Corbs

Thanks Steve The YEC loco is nearly there now.

Reminds me of RAS Syndrome (Redundant Acronym Syndrome Syndrome)

Nice one! I see the 48150 is included too. I think one could make a convincing 48150 using a similar method to this but starting with an Austerity rather than a J94 to get the circular rear cab windows. The Terrier wheels make a big difference, I think.

Thanks Dave! Yes you are right, I need to extend the frames so they go all the way to the bufferbeams. I did the same on the 'Lambtonesque' 0-6-2T and it made a huge difference.

I slapped some Klear on to seal the weathering and ended up removing a lot! So I applied some more last night before using the wet cotton bud to clean it up a bit. There's a loco under there somewhere.... A lot of photos of industrial locos show the tank having been overfilled and the water contrasting with the grubby loco. I tried using some glue 'n glaze applied with a brush to give this effect.

WW2 was full of acronyms. e.g. PLUTO - Pipe Line Under The Ocean

Very innovative!

I've also got the RT Models cab in a drawer somewhere until I muster the courage to use it! The two Lambton locos look great together. Of course I assume that the WD went and made use of the wye up the line in between photos What make is the 0-6-2T?

I read somewhere that the main reason for Russia having a wider gauge than Europe was due to the influence of American engineers

It looks brilliant! What a nice little scene

After a coat of klear, and of matt lacquer, I applied some weathering. Mostly a smoke powder wash, with some dark earth around the smokebox door to give the impression of it being burned. A lot of people commented on the livery being similar to 16 (a Hunslet Austerity featured in one of the Railway Series stories), so I've numbered it as a homage to that character. Overall I'm pleased with this, still some bits and bobs to do (motion bracket and lubricator, for example). For a simple bodge of some Junior locos purely to scratch an itch, I think it's turned out well. My biggest gripe is I messed up the cab when I cut it down, if you look at it end-on, the edge of the roof is lower on one side. I should have spotted this at the primer stage but didn't pick up on it. From a side-on or three-quarter view it's fine, so not the end of the world.

Pretty sure the first pic is back to front since the track in the foreground can't be the same both sides! I think it should be like this

I've seen a few variants within the class. (None of these pictures are mine, here for reference only) 2413 'Gunby' - Lipped chimney, deep bufferbeams front and back 2414 - Gas producer stovepipe chimney, normal rear bufferbeam, frame-depth front bufferbeam 2416 2417 - round smokebox handle

Going back to this, the pictures of models affected with rot don't seem to match what's happened to yours. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/109803-mazak-rot-arrghhh/page-1 So hopefully it's 'only' snapped and not rotted?

He's deleted them from his photobucket.

You should! From what I heard the 50550 was a better loco Growl notwithstanding, I'm very impressed with the out of the box running from both of these locos on my filthy track. With the smaller wheels on it crawls quite nicely.

Ah, found details here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/39536-hunslet-50550-class-scale-drawings/

The glue 'n glaze is drying in the windows and I've re-mounted the cylinders enabling the body to be lower. I like the low, hunkered-down look of it now. It's gained a whistle, still needs a lubricator.

A couple of pics with the body on the chassis. I like the smaller wheels of the 50550.

Hmm. When I glue them back together I use poly cement, thankfully the plastic used in the cheap locos from both Hornby and Bachmann seems to be absorbent of the stuff and they weld together well (the GBL models do not and need cyanoacrylate to get them to stick). When they are tacky they can be pushed together to help the bond. I then use green stuff putty applied with the handle of the tweezers like a trowel, sand it, then spray with filler primer to reveal any holes, sand and fill and spray as necessary.

Sorry to disappoint David but I'm just eyeballing it from photos and other people's models, I've never seen a GA for a 50550 although there are Austerity ones online I believe.

One of these?

Oh cool! I was going to make some plasticard ones up but if you are planning to do some 50550 ones I'll hold off for now as I'd much rather use them.

Hmm, I just mark both ends and use a deep razor saw as levelly as I can. What saw are you using?