michaelp
-
Posts
1,422 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Events
Exhibition Layout Details
Store
Posts posted by michaelp
-
-
Thanks for your reply, do you have any photos by any chance?
-
I am going to build some chainlink security fencing using the 'Ratio 436' kit, instead of using the supplied 'tulle' I want to use aluminium mesh. I had thought of using the stuff used for car body repairs but I don't know what size the mesh holes would have to be for oo gauge.
Sizes of mesh holes advertised are 1.3x1.3mm, 1.5x1.5mm, and 2.5x3.5mm.
If anyone can point me in the right direction for the correct size that would be great.
Thanks in advance.
-
Thank you for your detailed reply, I will remove the keeper plate and the body to check the areas you mentioned.
-
Hi all,
I got a brand new Hornby Class 08 R3485 'Laira' loco back in November last year, I want to run it in for about 30 mins in each direction on my rolling road.
The question is, should I lubricate it first as per the maintenance sheet, the reason I ask is because I am not sure when Hornby released this model and I don't know how long it sat on a shelf. There are smears of oil on the keeper plate but I thought I would ask the question first just to be safe.
Any advice would most welcome
Thanks in advance.
-
High Energy - Evelyn Thomas
-
Also the Squelima SQ 12 at around £12.00 not quite as good a picture but still acceptable and a lot cheaper than the Polaroid Cube
-
Walk On By - Dionne Warwick
- 7
-
37 minutes ago, Hamburger said:
Hi,
I'd like to have a look at some facts:
1. Running in is recommended to give the brushes a certain time to match its shape exactly to the dimensions of the collector/commutator.
2. For this it does not matter if you have smooth DC or pulsed DCC.
But:
3. When running in usually a lot of sparks are being caused ('brush fire').
4. This affects the surface of the collector in a negative way.
5. Causing sparks mainly depends on the applied voltage (and the shape of the brushes and the collector condition).
So,
6. a lower voltage gives less brush fire.
The Problem on DCC ist that
7. DCC works with a constant (higher) voltage which is pulsed,
Usually the motor gets a peak voltage which is just 1.4 volts below the DCC track voltage.
8. Using a DC device or a battery allows lower voltage at the motor.
9. That is the main reason.
If you manage to get your DCC output down to example 7 or 8 volts and the decoder is still working, everything is fine also on DCC.
If not, use a DC transformer.
Just for running in I also recommend to leave the capacitor as it is, also helps avoiding sparks.
Wolf
So if using a battery connected to a rolling road what size/type of battery would be required to give sufficient running in time?
-
Can I ask a question please, I wanted to run in a new Hornby 08 which is DCC ready but no decoder is fitted yet, my layout is DCC but the DCC power is disconnected and all other locos have been removed from the track, I connected my Hornby DC controller to the track the loco wheels just move a fraction in both directions and stop. I checked the loco with a 9V battery and the wheels rotate fine in both directions.
I don't know which model of DC controller I have on that it is a small Black Hornby controller with a Red switch that moves three 'notches' left and right with centre off position, it can be heard buzzing but the switch is switched either way the buzzing goes very faint. I have checked the output voltage and it reads pos 1 8V pos 2 10V and pos 3 14V in both directions.
Is it likely that the controller is damaged?
Any advice would be great
Thanks in advance
-
Could anyone give me an idea of which colour paint to use for small concrete and wooden fence posts, the type with four wires running through them.
Thanks in advance for any help.
-
Quote
Just look at the height of Bates Colliery headframe in the background in J7317, as always thanks for posting Dave.
Edited to add apology for 'quote' box
- 1
-
Eyes Without A Face - Billy idol
- 1
-
Arrived in WH Smiths Morpeth yesterday, every bit as good as I had hoped.
- 1
-
Brilliant West Blyth photos Dave, thanks for posting.
Michael
- 1
- 1
-
Captain Of Her Heart - Double
- 1
-
Crush - Jennifer Paige
-
22 hours ago, CLARENCE said:
Thanks for the input, folks. The seller has stopped replying to my emails, and if I'm honest I simply can't be bothered to take things any further. The item only cost £15, and yes I should have known better!
I don't want to spend too much, certainly not the £50 or £60 suggested; as I said its only for wiring track and point motors, so I don't need anything sophisticated. I shall look around for something at a reasonable price that'll give me what I need.
Once again, thanks for the help.
David,
I use an Antex 25W soldering iron, there are different sized tips available too. They are on Ebay for about £27.00 post free.
Michael
-
On 06/02/2019 at 10:27, Alcanman said:
I can wait and support my local WH Smiths, I'll check on Friday. They still have copies of parts 3 & 4 in stock
Still not in Blyth or Morpeth WH Smiths Mal, checked 9/2/19
Michael
- 1
-
High Fly - John Miles
- 2
-
David,
Try opening up a dispute with Ebay
- 1
-
UPside Down - Diana Ross
-
Thank you very much
-
Hi,
Title says it all really, can anyone tell me the over the buffer length of the above wagon please?
Thanks in advance
Michael
-
Juke Box Jive - The Rubettes
Aluminium mesh required for security fence
in Modelling Questions, Help and Tips
Posted
Your fencing looks fantastic, many thanks for posting the photos.