michaelp

Hello Peter and welcome,

Since you are wanting to use leds for point direction on a panel how about using some train detedtion modules so you can stop your trains at the appropriate place on your layout.

The items I use for both come pre wired so no resistors are required and be operated with DC or DCC.

Have a look below.

http://www.blocksignalling.co.uk/

Michael

if it sounds runny and distorted that suggests to me that it’s either not sealed properly, try squeezing it together in your hand whilst it’s playing and see if it improves. If that doesn’t work there’s also a chance (less likely) that the speaker is touching the enclosure as it vibrates. On my website (www.roads-and-rails.co.uk) I have speakers which are like the driver from a sugarcube speaker but without the enclosure, they have a self adhesive border around them so would be easy to stick to your existing enclosure. What model is it going in out of interest?

 

Richard

Hello Richard,

The speaker is for a Hornby Class 08, the Zimo speaker I was using seemed ever so slightly too big.

With the speaker removed the body all but dropped into place but with the speaker fitted resistance could be felt.

I tried fixing the speaker in a few different positions but it didn't really make much difference when re-fitting the body. The speaker may well have become damaged because of that.

I tried squeezing the speaker together and the sounds were much better.

Michael

Sorry to hear that Michael .

You should get change from a tenner for a new one .

Cheers Albie, some good priced speakers below.

http://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Shop.php?L1=Speakers

Tried to repair the speaker but to no avail I'm afraid, when connected to the decoder the sounds are tinny and distorted so I will get a new speaker.

Thanks for the help and ideas.

Michael

Hi Michael , 

Its an ESU model but I'm pretty sure its built the same way .

If you run a bit of PVA around each layer it will not only stick them together but will also provide an effective air seal  

 

Albie

Cheers Albie,

I have not long been in from work but I will give that a go later tonight and will report back.

Regards

Michael

Hi Michael,

The sugar cube is 8 Ohms , and can be used on its own so is at least 1 Watt,

Recent sugar cubes have been packaged in kit form so there are layers to stick together with PVA .

 

This allows you to make the sugar cube to a size to suit you.

I just happened to be messing about with one last night , 

It fell apart . presumably because the  PVA mix I used was a tad weak !

 

If you still get sound from it , you can make your own sound chamber with Plastikard 

 

HTH

 

Albie 

Thanks Albie,

Yes the speaker is still working,I was going to try and glue it but thought I would ask first.  

Is yours a Zimo speaker too with the oblong clear plastic strip?

I have a Zimo sugar cube speaker which has dropped to bits, the front part of the speaker has a sort of translucent part attached to it but these have become detached from the main body of the speaker if that makes sense, is there a way to fix this or is the speaker no use. I don't know what the speaker part number is or what ohms or watts it is.

If it is of any help the decoder is a Zimo 645R.

Thanks in advance

My Hornby Class 08 started running badly recently, it was reluctant to pick up speed it seemed to be holding back then it would suddenly speed up and slow down without further controller input.

I removed the body and put the loco on my rolling road where it behaved exactly the same, after ruling out anything fouling the motor and wheels I detached the motor from the chassis and placed the chassis on the track, holding the motor between my finger and thumb I applied mower and as the motor started to turn I could feel a 'notchy' sort running in the motor, this happened it both directions both speeding up and slowing down.

The motor seemed to get hot very quickly and there was a slight puff of smoke coming from the small square holes in the motor casing. Luckily the decoder etc suffered no damage.

I replaced the motor and all is well now but I would be interested to know what had gone wrong with the other motor if anyone knows.

Any clues would be much appreciated

Thanks Mal

Thanks for posting Mal, yes seen these creeping onto the B&T for a little while now, where was the first photo taken?  I dont recognise the bridge.

Have you checked here    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/62-dcc-fitting-guides/

Run Run Run - Jo Jo Gunne

Use a low voltage source, say 5v, and a 1k resistor in series. Make careful notes of which way round you connect positive and negative and try it. If it lights up it is the right way round, if not reverse it. It won't do any harm, it just won't work the wrong way

Thanks I will give that a try.

Hello all,

I am going to wire up the above signal, the instructions say that the 'Blue' side of the bank of LEDs is the negative/cathode connection. Problem is there doesn't seem to be a Blue 'side' and all the LED legs are all the same length and I could only remove the Red LED and there is no flat edge on the LED.

Is there another way to tell which connection is which?

Thanks in advance

Appologies if this has been asked before but is there a big difference between diy store white spirit and specific brand thinners. I'm using Wilder oil paints and not getting great results and I wondered if it could be because I'm using white spirit to thin the paint.

The Wilder thinners are difficult to find.

Thanks.

Steve.

Google search:   https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?products_id=21799

Mal,

there was one left when I got mine, Morpeth WH Smith's is normally quite good for railway magazines.

Got my copy from WH Smith's in Blyth Northumberland on Saturday, looks like another great read!

Hi all,

My video editing begins and ends with 'Windows Movie Maker' but because I need a new PC and Movie maker is no longer supported by Microsoft I have been thinking about getting 'Cyberlink'  Is anyone here on RMWeb using Cyberlink that could tell me if it is suitable for beginners or not with regard to ease of learning/using.

Any help with this would be much appreciated 

Hello All,

I want to fit some thin Red and Black wire to some 3mm LEDs and some heatshrink to insulate the LEDs but I have no idea what size wire and heatshrink tubing I need.

Any suggestions would be very helpful

Thanks in advance 

Posted twice by mistake

Deleted Post

Is there a quick and easy way to connect all the centre tags of point motor switches? At the moment I am soldering bits of wire between each switch to eventually connect the switches up to the power supply.

Is what I'm doing the right way or is there a better way?

Thanks in advance

Does that include old, broken strimmers?

I've got an old broken down boiler, but she's good to the kids!

 Thank you for the heads up.

Got Fluke 17B, nice big digital display, does all I need.

Move With Me - Neneh Cherry