D6775

I *think* it’s a Black 5, 45428 rings a bell. Al.

I was wondering myself the other day is there was any news. An update would be most welcome. Not interested in the HAA, but the HEA & VEA could be of use.

Watch out with 56040 its only right for it as it was preserved and not correct for anything in Large Logo Blue. It has the LoadHaul cant rail grill mods so only really good for something in Loadhaul, Transrail or EWS I think, maybe some of the Dutch/Transrail ones. I never bought it for that very reason.

Hi Adrian, Mixing EM with HO for dual gauge track won't work HO gauge being 16.5mm & EM back to back also being 16.5mm. It had crossed my mind whether it could be done but alas not! In terms of EMing current RTR stock as previously advised most is produced with RP25/110 wheels and therefore is not a simple pull out of wheel sets, saying this I have had the following successes: Auscision A, B & N loco's have all needed re-wheeling done with SEM wheel pans but keeping the Aucsions axles. Auscision wagons & Vans (various types) all required replacement wheels. Auscision N carriages, these where a pig, needed the bogies cutting into three pieces and re-building & re-wheeling. BRM P class I have EM'd these but I cannot remember if i have re-wheeled them or not! I am pretty sure I must have done. Powerline T class, simply pull the wheels out with some small washers to space them. Powerline S cars (the new ones) were a nice surprise as all they needed was the wheels spacing out. Old S cars wheels are crap so need replacing whatever you do with them. Austrains T & X class, simply pull the wheels out with some small washers to space them. Austrains Y class, I've had to replace the wheels on this and they fit but having trouble turning (I need to revisit this one and solve it which may invlve some trimming of the bogie frames, I may even look for some other wheels as they should really be spoked) OnTrackModels vans, all done with replacement wheels. Trainorama S Class - So far I have been unsuccessful with this, though I think it has been done but needs the wheels replacing/turning down and the bogie frames filing out. In terms of replacement wheels I have used RP25/88 wheels from Auscsion, SEM, NWSL & Alan Gibson depending on the Axle lengths required. I know most of this will be too modern for you but will give you an idea on manufacturers. If you are buying kits from SEM then you can always ask EM wheels to be supplied, I have had a number of orders from him for either jut wheel pans (for the Auscison Loco's) or replacement wheels including Axles, though I have not had any for some time. Hope some of this helps! Regards, Al.

Cheers Jeff, anything to keep the motivation up! Think I am pretty much settled on 024 but it will be a little later than your picture with large ED dogs and DCE logo's under the second mans cabside. Latest progress has been to file back the second fill, mostly happy with this but I have slapped another layer on and I had forgotten to fill the holes for the discs above the marker lights. I have also filed off the bodyside window frames as every prototype picture I look at the windows look to be flush or even slightly recessed, hopefully the following picture makes it clear (one of my Dad's): 26042 Glasgow Central 101289 by Alan Tait, on Flickr Lastly the latest picture of my 26: Heljan O Gauge 26 Body by endoftheroad, on Flickr Al.

Didn't find the piercing saw but a small razor saw has sufficed! The bogie frames have had the central spring assembly carefully removed then re-fitted around 2.5mm back with the use of a few scraps of square plastic rod. Heljan O Gauge 26 Bogie Frames by endoftheroad, on Flickr Heljan O Gauge 26 Bogie Frames by endoftheroad, on Flickr The above picture is not the clearest but the top frame has been modified, the second being as it came off the model. I've done this mod on all of my 4mm 26's as the bogies don't look to have enough depth to me. Well, I think that's it for today, there may be some more progress tomorrow if can keep this motivation up! Al.

Having been away for a few days I've now sanded/filed back the first layer of filler (a second layer is now drying). Heljan O Gague 26 Body by endoftheroad, on Flickr Heljan O Gague 26 Body by endoftheroad, on Flickr Now if only I could find my piercing saw I'd make a start on the bogies.......

Bob, Not sure what you constitute as expensive, but would Heljan's class 20 sprue be any use? lots of parts you'll not need but each sprue has 8 brake cylinders on. I'm sure Howes ship overseas if they're any use. https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/product/Heljan%20O%20class%2020%20parts%20sprue%20I%20(black)%20(%20157) I've trawled most of the other O gauge parts looking for bits and this seemed to be the best for brake cylinders. Regards, Al.

I've just stripped a complete HJ 26 body with surgical spirit, the printed details seemed to come off first before the base paint layer, might be worth a try with a cotton bud but i'm not guaranteeing it won't go all the way through. Whatever you try you'll have to be careful!! Nice little project! I thought about a 60 but prefer older traction!!

It was the yours that have tempted me into it, I did email you about doing it but I think you're rather busy do having a go myself! I've already trawled your FB page of pictures and saved a couple for reference (particularly the under frame!). Didn't realise the doors pop out, I might still be able to get them out to clean up! I suppose the other option with the tablet catcher is to completely cut out the cab side (as per the prototype suffering from tin worm!) and graft a new piece of plasticard in. Will see how it goes. I do like the look of 037 in ratty RF with blue doors but I think it might be beyond my capabilities so I think I am leaning towards024 in Blue, no cant rail lining and just two colours.

Not quite sure where from but I seem to have a little modelling mojo from somewhere. All raised detail that not required has been removes, tablet catcher & door window blanks fitted. Redundant marker lights, tablet catcher recess & door windows filled (will need another fill and rubbing back, probably more than once!). Snow baffle fitted over the horn grill & boiler blanks fitted on the roof. Heljan O Gague 26 Body by endoftheroad, on Flickr Now, has anyone done this mod before? I keep looking at pictures and the bodyside window frames, I keep thinking they are far too proud on the model and wondering whether to carve them off. On all the pictures I look at the window frames appear pretty much flush with the bodyside. Any suggestions? Al

Although this is my second venture into 7mm scale (the first stalled and was sold on) this is the first time I've done any of the work myself. I thought hard about buying one (or two) Heljan 26's when they were first released but kept talking myself out of it as 'I've no space for 'O' gauge' but when one came up at a reasonable price I figured why not, so here it is! Heljan O Gague 26 by endoftheroad, on Flickr Stripped of its component parts the body has been been given a bath of surgical spirit with some of the more stubborn bits worked off with Precision Paints Superstrip. Now the fun begins. Paring off all the raised detail on the cab doors, bodyside water filler and some of the cab front light brackets. Heljan O Gague 26 Body by endoftheroad, on Flickr Next job will be filling the tablet catch recess, cab door windows and some of the cab front lights. Then on to the chassis, air tanks have been order from JLTRT, fuel tank will be split from the water tank and the bogies modified to set the springs back. The biggest question now is livery!! I can't decide between three options, 26024 in rail blue with Lage ED Dogs and DCE flashes, 26025 in Dutch with ED depot plaques or 26037 in RF grey with blue doors on the 2nd mans cab side. Decisions decisions!! Al.

Just found these of 6311 on Flickr which should be useful: https://www.flickr.com/photos/151257534@N04/37336955364/in/album-72157665650258679/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/151257534@N04/37336948364/in/album-72157665650258679/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/151257534@N04/37336942754/in/album-72157665650258679/ Some other useful stuff on that site too. Cheers, Al.

Looking good. Looking forward to seeing the 44's running. Al.

Looking good. My choice would have been an S but that's because I've never seen a 42!

Definitely interested, even if its just pictures. My bodies are all stripped down just need to get the kit off Brian and crack on (when I get chance).

The code 75 still looks good, all my stock is EM'd but I have never got to building the layout! I may well have been on Broadford at Wigan, certainly done one show with Ian there don't know if he's done more than one though.

Will be following this with interest! Someone has already mentioned two types of bogie, but also there were two (possibly three) types of bogie steps, I've seen both bogie types with both steps so more details to look at! Al.

Nice looking layout. I have had a number of enjoyable days operating Broadford for Iain, I really need to crack on with building my own Aussie layout. Have you gone down the EM route or just standard HO track, I can't decide from your pictures!

That's looking fantastic Peter, I've been looking at points for my layout but they will need building! Regarding your T class ticking, it could just be the sanding pipes fouling the sleepers (I'm assuming they have them?) my N class and P class do it. Either trim them back (you'll not notice they're not there), or gently bend them back up towards the bogie frames, they will still drop back but just bend them again. Al. Edited as I have just found some pictures of my low nose T's and they also have the sanders that can foul the sleepers.

This is starting to look really good. Its inspiring me to get started with my Aussie project again, just issues with time/space/motivation!

Will you stop posting those big 26's, they look fantastic!

Looking forward to this, will have to dispose of some items though! 37260/1/2/4 would compliment 114 nicely!!!

20904 never had modified light clusters or long range fuel tanks (certainly not on the sole bar anyway) and remained blue star fitted. All the 20/3's had long range tanks. modified light clusters & DRS standard multiple working (no blue star). Therefore the 20/9's could only work in multiple with other blue star fitted loco's (20/9's & most of the DRS 37's fleet) & 20/3's could only work with loco's with similar multiple working, mainly all the DRS 37's with the additional multi socket on the nose end. Note that 20301-305 initially only had MU on the nose ends. In the link bellow of 37612 you can see the orange DRS multi socket just to the right of the left had light cluster, the standard blue start cable can also be seen just above the right hand buffer, at this point 37612 having both sets of multiple working equipment. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140157320@N04/31726026411/in/album-72157664432787382/ Hope that helps, Al.

Looking good. Those step by step pictures will come in handy when Brian replies to my email!! Might have to ring him.