Andrew P Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 (edited) Hi Andy see you have a very flash camera mate ........'All the gear and no idea' sorry couldn't resist that one ......but have enjoyed your photo's ....can understand your annoyance with blurred background like the fence that you mentioned earlier. It seems to be a common problem with pictures on model railways and I have never worked out wherever it's the fault of the digital tech bit or indoor photography to be honest ..be interested to hear your feelings on the camera after a couple of months trails .....best of luck and keep up the interesting threads cheers Feel free to shout anytime mate if I can help Love photography and can talk about it till the cows come home ... well at until the bar closes anyway!! Andy, you could be right, but I think the picture quality is all down to the F stop setting. The camera that you've got is aimed at the point and shoot market, where as really I would alway suggest that anyone doing model railway photography goes for one that at least has a A and S setting, usually those will have a Manual (M) setting as well which gives you complete control. I don't want to say that I think you might be disappointed with it, because obviously if your happy then thats fine, but ideally you do need to be able to change the F-Stop (A) setting yourself. I don't want to hijack anything, but as an example this 08 was taken on f1.8: IMG_4733.jpg where as this view, I know its a slightly different angle, was taken on F9. IMG_4439.jpg The depth of view in the latter one - the point where it starts to loose focus is far further back, because the lens is open wider. I think thats the feature your missing at the moment. Hope I'm not talking out of turn! Out of the three settings I've talked about Shutter, Aperture and ISO, for model railway photography, Aperture is the most critical, followed by ISO, then Shutter - assuming the train is stopped! If the train is moving then the latter two swap round! EDIT: I forgot to mention - you talk about the picture quality Andy - bear in mind that 70% of what you see is down to the quality of lens and the lens settings, the remaining 30% is the sensor. Im simplifying things a lot here, but in essence there are only two things you'll really see with the 20MP sensor over the 7.1MP, that is a larger file size, and far better definition in the areas that are in focus. For what we are doing, taking snaps and putting them on the web, the latter might not be too noticeable unless you crop images in and really look at them with a fine eye at 80-100% magnification. If they were going for publication in a magazine then the difference would definitely be noticed! Hope I've not confused you Rich Morning Martin and Rich, I know this is Off Topic for Kingsford, but I'm not worried at the moment, as ''K'' is still under construction and I want to get my photography right. The above has confused me, as I have never been able to read and take in info like that, tell me / show me and I'm fine, it's in my head for good, and that's why I wanted a Point and Shoot Camera. I'm going to try it out again later, but I need the depth of Field I had with the Fuji as in these examples on Pencarne. Along with Super Macro Shots like this that I did for one of my Railway Modeller Weathering Articled many years ago. I've now found another Auto / Auto setting that I'll try out later. Edited March 20, 2017 by Andrew P 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Hi Andy, I wish I could take shots like that. I only have my iPhone as a camera I am still stuck in the dark age Ha Ha keep up the good work buddy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium brushman47544 Posted March 20, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 20, 2017 Hi Andy, I took the liberty of looking at the camera's instructions on Canon's website. There a reference to "long shutter" the "SHOOTING" options, for taking photos in the dark or where you want a long exposure. This suggests you may have the option to set a longer shutter speed and a longer shutter speed in normal lighting should give you a good depth of field (F9 or higher) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 (edited) Well I've just been out and taken these pics. The Camera is set to Auto ISO and the largest picture size, I have done a series using Manual and Auto shoot settings. So firstly Manual. And Auto Manual. Auto. Manual. Auto. Manual. Auto. Manual. Auto EDIT = I forgot to say that in all the above, a spot lamp was used to get extra light into the Loco. Edited March 20, 2017 by Andrew P 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Hi Andy, I took the liberty of looking at the camera's instructions on Canon's website. There a reference to "long shutter" the "SHOOTING" options, for taking photos in the dark or where you want a long exposure. This suggests you may have the option to set a longer shutter speed and a longer shutter speed in normal lighting should give you a good depth of field (F9 or higher) Nice one Andrew, Thanks, I'll try later as well, I felt the Manual settings gave a little more clarity for both close up and long shots. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Hi Andy, I wish I could take shots like that. I only have my iPhone as a camera I am still stuck in the dark age Ha Ha keep up the good work buddy Haha Technology confuses me I'm afraid mate, but then I'm easily confused anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I know what you mean they asked me would I like to go in the power box or stay in the mechanical boxes. Well I am still working manual boxes lol. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted March 20, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2017 Morning Martin and Rich, I know this is Off Topic for Kingsford, but I'm not worried at the moment, as ''K'' is still under construction and I want to get my photography right. The above has confused me, as I have never been able to read and take in info like that, tell me / show me and I'm fine, it's in my head for good, and that's why I wanted a Point and Shoot Camera. I'm going to try it out again later, but I need the depth of Field I had with the Fuji as in these examples on Pencarne. Last Pics 007.JPG Last Pics 022.JPG Last Pics 049.JPG Along with Super Macro Shots like this that I did for one of my Railway Modeller Weathering Articled many years ago. Fig 9.jpg I've now found another Auto / Auto setting that I'll try out later. Hi Andy, Oops! Apologies, I really didn't mean to confuse you! But I've found part of the problem. Your old Fuji went up to f13.5, but the new Canon lens only goes up to f6.6 (see this link from the specs on the Canon website) so the pictures are never going to have the depth of field that you had with the Fuji. Its interesting tho, looking the shot approaching the platform, and the other passing the signal box they are taken F4.5/F5, which is probably the best your going to achieve with that camera, purely because of the limitations of the lens. Given that your maximum possible F stop is half what your use to, I personally don't think you'll achieve the same quality of pictures, purely because the lens cannot let the amount of light in. Sorry. Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Hi Andy, Oops! Apologies, I really didn't mean to confuse you! But I've found part of the problem. Your old Fuji went up to f13.5, but the new Canon lens only goes up to f6.6 (see this link from the specs on the Canon website) so the pictures are never going to have the depth of field that you had with the Fuji. Its interesting tho, looking the shot approaching the platform, and the other passing the signal box they are taken F4.5/F5, which is probably the best your going to achieve with that camera, purely because of the limitations of the lens. Given that your maximum possible F stop is half what your use to, I personally don't think you'll achieve the same quality of pictures, purely because the lens cannot let the amount of light in. Sorry. Rich That's exactly what I thought this morning Rich, I've sent you a PM. Cheers, Andy. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 I've played around some more and then went down to my mate John's, (in the green shirt) along with Jeff / Binny from on here. No special lighting or set ups, just point and shoot and I cant believe how well they've come out. Well chuffed. 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted March 20, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2017 Very nice Andy - you have a PM It also strikes me that its a very well lit room, which will always help things. Rich 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KNP Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 (edited) Looking at the last set of pictures, nice railway by the way, I feel that lighting is going to be the main problem here so have you tried, on your own layout, increasing the room lighting or using additional portable lighting? I would say you have a good camera there so long as it can operate in a well lit area, the depth of field looks good and the definition clear. I use a continuous 125ww, 5500k daylight bulb on a tripod shining through a diffusing umbrella on top of the twin ceiling and pelmet strip lights being on as well. Like you, I never use flash as no matter what you do the picture always appears bleached and false. Edited March 21, 2017 by KNP 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Looking at the last set of pictures, nice railway by the way, I feel that lighting is going to be the main problem here so have you tried, on your own layout, increasing the room lighting or using additional portable lighting? I would say you have a good camera there so long as it can operate in a well lit area, the depth of field looks good and the definition clear. I use a continuous 125ww, 5500k daylight bulb on a tripod shining through a diffusing umbrella on top of the twin ceiling and pelmet strip lights being on as well. Like you, I never use flash as no matter what you do the picture always appears bleached and false. I agree, lighting is so important, and I use a spot lamp for home stills, and normally with a long timer move the lamp around for good light and no shadows. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Digital Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 Hi Andy, Lighting as you have said is important and a well lit photo will allow you to use the best aperture on the camera to obtain the best depth of field. Another thing to note is the closer you get to a subject the less depth of field you will have and the further away from the subject the greater the depth of field. Try experimenting with different distances from your subject. Hope this helps. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 (edited) Hi Andy, Lighting as you have said is important and a well lit photo will allow you to use the best aperture on the camera to obtain the best depth of field. Another thing to note is the closer you get to a subject the less depth of field you will have and the further away from the subject the greater the depth of field. Try experimenting with different distances from your subject. Hope this helps. John Thanks John, I wasn't aware of that, re the depth of field, something else to try out. Edited March 23, 2017 by Andrew P 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 (edited) Just DON'T ask to have a play on ''K'' at the moment though. Edited March 22, 2017 by Andrew P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted March 23, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2017 That looks like a Network Rail engineers possession Andy!!! Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mulgabill Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 Just DON'T ask to have a play on ''K'' at the moment though. Fiddle Yard 1 005.JPG Fiddle Yard 1 006.JPG And I thought the pics I took of Helstonish yesterday were a mess! Once again you have inspired my efforts! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 That looks like a Network Rail engineers possession Andy!!! Rich And I thought the pics I took of Helstonish yesterday were a mess! Once again you have inspired my efforts! Thanks Guys, I hope to have a really good tidy up later, some of it is Track for Trewithen's Fiddle Yard, and I hope to lay that today so that will be some 15 or so Yards out of the way. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Well what a difference a couple of hours makes, the Fiddle Yard is finished and the Layout is tidy, I might even have a nice running session tonight. 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Well yesterday was a Boys Day out, so Jeff / Binny and I went up to Manchester to GeorgeT's and then into Manchester by Train from Hazel Grove, Jeff and I also stopped off at Peak Forest each way to get some photos. We rode on 7 different Trains including 3 Pendilinos between Stockport and Piccadilly. And this one taken at about 75mph through the Pendalino window. And a bit of FUN. I WANT ONE. but if I got in, I couldn't get out with my Hip and Knee problems. 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted April 1, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 1, 2017 Hi Andy Looks like you had fun at Mr T's yesterday. Looking at the photos there are many "modern" classes of units that there are not models of. I am now going to sound a bit Mr Wrightish but you very very rarely see people model the unit types that don't fall out of a box. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Kazmierczak Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Sounds quite a journey if you had three different Pendolinos between Stockport and Man Pic 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium brushman47544 Posted April 1, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 1, 2017 Nice photos Andy, but not what I call a proper passenger train in sight :-( Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Hi Andy Looks like you had fun at Mr T's yesterday. Looking at the photos there are many "modern" classes of units that there are not models of. I am now going to sound a bit Mr Wrightish but you very very rarely see people model the unit types that don't fall out of a box. Your spot on Clive, and so many different Liveries as well, in, out and around Manchester, it gave me an idea for another Deesdale type Layout in it's original format as a Terminus. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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