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Small 0-6-0 tender loco, late 19th century to BR era


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post-6220-128171750289_thumb.jpg Here is the Golden Arrow SECR/SR/BR O1 resin body kit to fit on the current Hornby 0-6-0 chassis.

 

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Gives a model of a typical late 19th century goods and mixed traffic loco in 00 form.

 

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Major surgery is needed and about 19mm has to be sawn off of the back of the Hornby chassis.

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Some work is needed on the body to fill small holes left by the moulding process. There are only a few large parts to the kit. It saves all that fiddling about trying to get every thing straight that you have to do with a white metal or brass kit, but the resin is not very heavy and there is only a little room in the body for extra weight so it's performance will be about the same as the original plastic Jinty the chassis came from.

 

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In the tender you can see there is some smaller details of the springs, the resin gives good reproduction of large parts such as the dome and chimney but is not so good at the fine detail for example the safety valve which broke on the sprue..

 

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I am intending to make it tender pick up and have made the draw bar arrangements more complicated than the kit instructions suggested.

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  • RMweb Gold

post-6220-128171815989_thumb.jpg Final picture shows it next to a Midland 2F for a size comparison, which would make the O2 about a 2F power rating, a real O2 can be seen on the Blue Bell steam railway in Sussex.

Useful thread, thanks, but your model seems to have had a promotion - it started as an O1, and has already progressed to an O2, apparently. I recommend you stop the progression there, as if you start calling it an O4, there will be all sorts of folk up in arms!

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post-6220-128171815989_thumb.jpg Final picture shows it next to a Midland 2F for a size comparison, which would make the O2 about a 2F power rating, a real O2 can be seen on the Blue Bell steam railway in Sussex.

 

I hope the dome and safety valve cover are not glued in place on the 2F. In your other topic 3F to 2F you have them both ways! Other than that you are making good progress.

 

Geoff.

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  • 1 month later...

looking nice! I don't post my kit efforts up on here maybe i should, i enjoy watching this topic as i have built one of these earlier in the year, nice to see different ideas for tender pickups and joining the tender and loco together. Just working on a C-Class at the moment.

 

Look forward to seeing more progress.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks BMR for your comment I have been following your website with interest.

Here is a progress report, I have started to paint my O1. I had some problems with the tender pickups, the back of the old style Jackson metal wheels I am using

had a lot of burrs on them around the spokes which were catching on the wire wiper pick-ups, so I have filled the burrs flush with the back of the wheel rims.

 

The picture tries to show how I have added lead weight to the front inside of the hollow boiler and tender cab.

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This second picture shows where I have sawn of the back of the Hornby chassis, I cut too much off and so have added a spacer to fill up the gap I created by mistake,

The horizontal screw is the new body fixing screw and there is a loop of paper clip wire for the tender to hook on.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Have you primed the kit before painting. Resin needs to be cleaned before priming to ensure good paint adhesion. Resin moulding uses a release agentwhcih can cause "fish eye" effect is not cleaned correctly. I use Jif and Washing up liquid others use turps .

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Thats a shame... All i can say what i did with mine... i never cleaned the resin on mine, i gave it a wipe down and a brush to remove any dirt and dust. I used Halford primer before painting I used Pheonix paints to do the SECR livery, I didn't have any problem.

 

You can paint straight on to the resin as i think i did it on the tender of this kit and not the loco just as an expirement, so i think it could be the paint being off as it were. Looking good though! still need to find the casting / pipe work on the side of the boiler for mine.

 

Heres a couple from me.

 

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Thanks for the encouragement, the pipe work was made up from a piece of suitable thickness of wire and a short bit of tube, anything of the right fatness will do.

Here Ian Rice's book on building and detailing white metal kits gave the method.

 

I'm currently rubbing down the paint with fine grade emery paper and emery nail sticks and have bought a new tin of Humbrol.

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Great to see it (excuse the pun) back on track, hope this time it goes better for you. I think i asked the question before. The fitting on the side of the boiler not the wire but the top part, cant remember the name of sorry, where do you aquire these from i know its not with the kit... then again what is? hehe, just wondered as ive been looking for a casting to do mine... as mine are a tad absent.

 

Thank you in advance and i hope things go better :)

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Great to see it (excuse the pun) back on track, hope this time it goes better for you. I think i asked the question before. The fitting on the side of the boiler not the wire but the top part, cant remember the name of sorry, where do you aquire these from i know its not with the kit... then again what is? hehe, just wondered as ive been looking for a casting to do mine... as mine are a tad absent.

 

Thank you in advance and i hope things go better :)

 

Matt

 

They are called clack valves (basically a non return valve to allow water to enter the boiler but not pass back out) Some kits have them as white metal castings but some nice turned / machined brass brass ones are available from Markits.

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  • RMweb Gold

Try using a primer before applying the top coat. A can of Halfords grey primer should help, and there will be enough in a can to do several models.

 

Geoff.

 

Totally agree I always give a light coat of Halfords plastic primer on the resin bodied kits I have built so far.

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Have you primed the kit before painting. Resin needs to be cleaned before priming to ensure good paint adhesion. Resin moulding uses a release agentwhcih can cause "fish eye" effect is not cleaned correctly. I use Jif and Washing up liquid others use turps .

 

 

Same question/comment again .

 

If you paint the model as shown it will look like it is pebbledashed. The model must be perfectly clean . I would clean the paint off with Nitromors paint stripper or similar. Resin is quite tolerant of paint stripper used carefully.

If you spray a light coat of primer it will show all the imperfections. Fill these with Green Putty or similar re prime and then add a top coat colour preferably sprayed. Halfords do many colours there maybe a Green for your loco . 100 times better finish than brush painting.

 

Re Clack Valves. Brassmasters do nice Brass turnings for the main part

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  • 1 year later...

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The 01 class loco finally got repainted and runs O.K. but I am sure it will be out classed by the new Bachmann C class, more or less a model of the same prototype. I have tried lining the model once with transfers but it went wrong. There are still a few details needed like front buffers and safety valves. Here it can be seen leaving the small platform at Arkwright Mills with the single coach train a typical light railway job for such a loco.

 

The coach is an old Tri-ang Wild West with bogies from Lima and metal wheels added, it could do with some hand rails on the veradahs. Arkwright mills is some industrial backwater somewhere in the 19th century not really a light railway more just a collection of joined up private sidings.

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