RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 4, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2017 Looking forward to seeing more progress. Me too ! Have spent the rest of the evening drawing up the scenic elements, where the road and gates will be, how wide the bridge needs to be, etc. Basic ground contours will be built up using polystyrene sheets, carved then covered in tissue paper & tester pot paints, then static grass. I'm thinking setting the season as late autumn, so lots of brown leaves both on the trees and the ground. Walls will be Cornish hedges , using either Das stabbed with old paintbrush ferrules or built from fish-tank gravel. I think a front frame opening height of about 12 inches should be enough. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 5, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2017 As recommended by Graham Muz (usual disclaimers !!) 4 Dignham electro uncouplers arrived in today's post. Now, a question. As the top of the electro-bolt is fairly small, it means accurate positioning of the wagon is required to ensure the hook is activated by the magnetic force. Has anyone tried using a length of steel bar (e.g. a piece of Hornby rail) attached to the electro-bolt, to increase the length of the available magnetic field ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted January 5, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 5, 2017 (edited) As recommended by Graham Muz (usual disclaimers !!) 4 Dignham electro uncouplers arrived in today's post. Now, a question. As the top of the electro-bolt is fairly small, it means accurate positioning of the wagon is required to ensure the hook is activated by the magnetic force. Has anyone tried using a length of steel bar (e.g. a piece of Hornby rail) attached to the electro-bolt, to increase the length of the available magnetic field ? Stu, I've never used Dinghams but as I understand it they work in a similar way to DG, B&B and later Sprat & Winkles. You don't need to stop over the magnet. You just push the vehicles over the magnet while it is energised to uncouple them. Apologies if I've got this wrong. Edited January 5, 2017 by St Enodoc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 5, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2017 No, I'm not using Dingham couplings, just the electro magnets. I'll be using the Brian Kirby inspired 'staples on a Bachmann coupling hook' method, as before, but hopefully with improved reliability over the permanent magnets. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
toplink@()1989))(( Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 No, I'm not using Dingham couplings, just the electro magnets. I'll be using the Brian Kirby inspired 'staples on a Bachmann coupling hook' method, as before, but hopefully with improved reliability over the permanent magnets. On my last layout I used the staple on tension lock coupler with success, however I had to use two magnets to uncouple, one for each staple, are you taking one hook off the wagon? that would work but the wagons will need to be set up spot on too each other as any inconsistencies in track levels may cause them to uncouple when you don,t want them to. Cheers, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 5, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2017 On previous layouts I've only used a single hook per wagon and generally this has not been a problem. You are correct that uneven track will cause uncoupling, as did the permanent magnets, hence the move to electro ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted January 5, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 5, 2017 No, I'm not using Dingham couplings, just the electro magnets. I'll be using the Brian Kirby inspired 'staples on a Bachmann coupling hook' method, as before, but hopefully with improved reliability over the permanent magnets. Ah, I see - I misread your post. Sorry I can't help after all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 5, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2017 That's fine, thanks anyway. The instructions with the electro magnets explain how to use them with Dinghan couplings, but as the magnets can be used with AJs or Spratt & Winkles as well, I could experiment with the different sorts fairly cheaply. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted January 5, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 5, 2017 That's fine, thanks anyway. The instructions with the electro magnets explain how to use them with Dinghan couplings, but as the magnets can be used with AJs or Spratt & Winkles as well, I could experiment with the different sorts fairly cheaply. As you know Stu, I use DGs. Give them a try as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Nice project Stu Like everyone else, I'm a fan of that lovely buildingIt'll be great to see it at home on your new layoutCheers (and happy new year!)Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 8, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 8, 2017 Baseboard now wired for track, frogs and point motors. 1st Seep point motor fitted and flying leads connected. Testing of point motor - passed. Testing of frog polarity switch on point motor - failed. Reason - not a point motor with built in switch..... Bu$$er. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted January 8, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 8, 2017 Baseboard now wired for track, frogs and point motors. 1st Seep point motor fitted and flying leads connected. Testing of point motor - passed. Testing of frog polarity switch on point motor - failed. Reason - not a point motor with built in switch..... Bu$$er. sorry but very much the sort of thing I do Nick 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 8, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) Control Panel front piece drawn up: Provision has been made for isolation switches for each siding, plus the uncoupler and point push switches. Edited January 8, 2017 by Stubby47 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 8, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 8, 2017 Baseboard now wired for track, frogs and point motors. 1st Seep point motor fitted and flying leads connected. Testing of point motor - passed. Testing of frog polarity switch on point motor - failed. Reason - not a point motor with built in switch..... Bu$$er. The worst part was the two point motors I had in storage were already wired with the point motor control wires, I just added the frog switch wires (thinking that if the points were non-switch they wouldn't have the 3 extra connection points...). Still, the mount holes are in the right place, so a swap should be fairly simple. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 9, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2017 2nd point motor now purchased. Plus a new hand-drill to make holes, the Pin-vice was not really up to drilling in 18mm ply... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 11, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) Hmmm. Added the short flying leads to the 2 new point motors, all colour coded to match the layout. Fitted the new motor in the old mounting holes and turned the layout over. Plugged in the track power via wires direct to the track. Using the trusty 08, there was power to the headshunt but nothing to any of the sidings. Cue head scratching. Reason was I'd not connected to the baseboard track wiring... Sorted that and found power to all sidings. Cut off the unneeded length of point motor tiebar moving rod, and used 16v ac to change to point to find a track short. Isolated the point motor from the track - still a short on the auxiliary switch. Took the motor off completely - no short. Gave up for the evening. Edited January 11, 2017 by Stubby47 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 12, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) More numpty moments... Spent this lunchtime drawing up the wiring diagram for the control panel. First attempt abandoned because the track plan wasn't upside down. Second attempt abandoned because the incoming power position made the wiring pattern too messy. Third attempt abandoned because I'd connected the uncoupler motor supply to the 16v ac not the 12v dc... Must try harder ! Edited January 12, 2017 by Stubby47 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted January 12, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2017 Sorry to hear of your tribulations, hope you don't mind me taking comfort from the thought it ain't just me. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 14, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14, 2017 Point motor refitted, short sorted out. More test running with the 08. Control panel box started, but the front piece 6mm ply is too thick, so am changing that to a sheet of aluminum. Scart lead sourced from loft - a bit confused as to why the two plugs are not a 1:1 match for connections. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted January 14, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 14, 2017 Point motor refitted, short sorted out. More test running with the 08. Control panel box started, but the front piece 6mm ply is too thick, so am changing that to a sheet of aluminum. Scart lead sourced from loft - a bit confused as to why the two plugs are not a 1:1 match for connections. good man but we want pictures and video Nick 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 15, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2017 So, SCART lesds are designed to have swapped pins. This will make the wiring of the layout socket a bit more of a challenge, but a decent wiring diagram will help ( see earlier post for how well that went). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 15, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2017 General pic of the 08 testing Underboard wiring 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 15, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) And the wiring diagram X,Y & Z are the isolation section switches, should they be required. Edited January 15, 2017 by Stubby47 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted January 15, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2017 And the wiring diagram wiring.gif X,Y & Z are the isolation section switches, should they be required. you have just reminded me why I went DCC nice progress though taken me all day getting one part of a two stage gear reduction running smooth NIck Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 15, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2017 I've actually wired for DCC... As each siding is open ended, I didn't need to use isolating fishplates and could have fed the whole rail via the frog. But keeping all the rails live will allow a DCC sound loco to sit in a siding whilst another shunts. Not that I have any DCC stuff, let alone sound, but never say never... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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