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Tinner's Forge


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  • RMweb Gold

The green stuff is starting to arrive.

 

Foam board formers, cereal packet strips stuck with hot glue, paper towel pieces stuck with green tester pot paint.

 

A second and third layer of towel will be added, followed by random spraying with green & brown paint.

 

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Edited by Stubby47
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  • RMweb Gold

Having left the ballast overnight, it does appear to be much more set, so as advised I will add a little more Klear and wait .

 

Today's session will see the improvement to the cutting and possibly some more ballasting. SWMBO and No.1 daughter are going to a wedding fayre, so I should have a few hours to myself.

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  • RMweb Gold

Prototype questions :

 

How far (miles ?) were locos allowed to push wagons along an industrial branch line ?

Could any wagons be pushed, or did they have to be preceded by a brake van, or be fitted without a brake van - could un-braked wagons be pushed ?

 

I know the BWTs did some strange things through Hellandbridge, just wondering if this was more widespread if the branch had no run-round facilities at the end.

 

TIA

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  • RMweb Gold

Klear Polish for ballasting?? - I'm new to this and yet to ballast anything (ever) please explain........................

Edited by halsey
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  • RMweb Gold

Once the ballast is laid dry around the sleepers, neat Klear is gently dribbled on. I use a long plastic pipette.

 

This soaks in and when it dries becomes solid, fixing the stones in place.

 

I need to add a second application and also allow a longer drying period.

 

Hope that helps.

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It's been a wait but worth it to see this project thus far. I like the rough stone hedges which must take a lot of patience and be difficult to make in this size. The bridge has plenty of room considering the one at Coombe which looks even shorter can take modern diesels which just seem to fit. The forge came out well in the end.

 

Brian.

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  • RMweb Gold

Once the ballast is laid dry around the sleepers, neat Klear is gently dribbled on. I use a long plastic pipette.

 

This soaks in and when it dries becomes solid, fixing the stones in place.

 

I need to add a second application and also allow a longer drying period.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks - there seems to be debate about old and new Klear - can you clarify what you use - why is this better than PVA - you say it "soaks in" so what ballast do you use with it?- is it good for general areas or just track which has some "containment" and how long does it take to dry?

BFN

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  • RMweb Gold

Halsey - sorry, haven't replied yet, will do later.

 

Meanwhile, as I can't find the original tumbledown shed, I've made another one.

 

post-7025-0-69273800-1489050127_thumb.jpg

 

Some filler needed, and obviously a roof. This will sit front left, buried in brambles & weeds.

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  • RMweb Gold

Contentious issue warning !

 

I wandered arout the excellent TrainWest show yesterday, comparing heights of layouts, specifically the floor to railhead distance.

 

I want TF to be viewed at a reasonably high height, so the viewer is stood on a hillside, rather than in a helicopter.

 

So hopefully today's woodwork session will see the creation of some trestles of the right length.

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  • RMweb Gold

I'll be adding some light-weight chain to stop them spreading.

 

I might get some of those adjustable feet to help with uneven floors. (Though most exhibitions seem to have fairly flat floors, plus I've always got plenty of card strips available).

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