Jump to content
 

Bachmann 2 EPB


Summer_Saturday

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

I've been comparing the newly released NSE-liveried 2-EPB with the Capital Commuter set and the earlier released NSE-liveried 2-EPB Collectors Club version and see that there are a number of subtle differences between the two releases.

 

On the Capital Commuter set:

- no headlight

- darker NSE blue paint

- small NSE logo on cab front

- black roof

- numbered in 64xx series

 

On the Collectors Club Set:

- headlight

- lighter NSE blue paint

- grey roof

- no small NSE logo on cab front

- numbered in 62xx series

 

Not having been living in the UK during the NSE era I'm not au fait with all the appropriate livery differences etc. so don't know if any of the above are correct or not. All I do know is that I do like things in NSE livery with a preference for the darker blue version of the livery./

 

Keith

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been comparing the newly released NSE-liveried 2-EPB with the Capital Commuter set and the earlier released NSE-liveried 2-EPB Collectors Club version and see that there are a number of subtle differences between the two releases.

 

On the Capital Commuter set:

- no headlight

- darker NSE blue paint

- small NSE logo on cab front

- black roof

- numbered in 64xx series

 

On the Collectors Club Set:

- headlight

- lighter NSE blue paint

- grey roof

- no small NSE logo on cab front

- numbered in 62xx series

 

Not having been living in the UK during the NSE era I'm not au fait with all the appropriate livery differences etc. so don't know if any of the above are correct or not. All I do know is that I do like things in NSE livery with a preference for the darker blue version of the livery./

 

Keith

The light blue came first, but after a while it was revised to a darker shade, so both are authentic. There were a myriad of detail changes over the relatively short life of this livery. For example, the upward swoosh at the unit ends had a sharp angle originally but a radius was added later. A BR double arrow was included on early applications but was later dropped - this mirrored the NSE logo itself which originally had the double arrow to the left of 'Network SouthEast' and the rhomboids as part of the underlining; later the rhomboids were positioned to the left of the name with no double arrow. The loco livery was totally revised, the original design not really working on a single unit rather than an EMU.

Link to post
Share on other sites

.

 

And remember the light blue faded remarkably quickly so really there is a "third" livery - a pure light blue livery was a rarity.

 

I  ASSUME (?) that the reason that the colour changed to the dark blue was the weathering problem.  I don't know why the upwards angle was changed to a curve.

 

This book MIGHT tell a story ???

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/British-Designed-1948-1997-David-Lawrence/dp/0711038376/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1478345790&sr=1-1&keywords=british+rail+designed+1948-97

 

.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The light blue came first, but after a while it was revised to a darker shade, so both are authentic. There were a myriad of detail changes over the relatively short life of this livery. For example, the upward swoosh at the unit ends had a sharp angle originally but a radius was added later. A BR double arrow was included on early applications but was later dropped - this mirrored the NSE logo itself which originally had the double arrow to the left of 'Network SouthEast' and the rhomboids as part of the underlining; later the rhomboids were positioned to the left of the name with no double arrow. The loco livery was totally revised, the original design not really working on a single unit rather than an EMU.

The other key difference between 62XX and 64XX is that they were refurbished. Meaning an open interior with no compartments or saloon dividers.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Anybody have problems with the interior lights on the latest release NSE Capital Commuter and NSE-branded blue and grey units?

 

On both of mine, on both analogue and dcc,  the head code boxes illuminate but the interior lights on the Driving Cars do not illuminate although the interior lights do work on the Trailer Cars.

 

Keith

Link to post
Share on other sites

Anybody have problems with the interior lights on the latest release NSE Capital Commuter and NSE-branded blue and grey units?

 

On both of mine, on both analogue and dcc,  the head code boxes illuminate but the interior lights on the Driving Cars do not illuminate although the interior lights do work on the Trailer Cars.

 

Keith

Yes same here, driving car interior lights don,t light up while trailing car does. I suspect a loose contact but will need to open it to find out. When you ran yours on DCC, did you open it to fit a chip? If so, did you look at the contacts?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

The other key difference between 62XX and 64XX is that they were refurbished. Meaning an open interior with no compartments or saloon dividers.

Not quite. Only the 64XX were refurbished. The 62XX were the 57XX renumbered to match the unit classification, e.g. 5725 became (41)6225.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Yes same here, driving car interior lights don,t light up while trailing car does. I suspect a loose contact but will need to open it to find out. When you ran yours on DCC, did you open it to fit a chip? If so, did you look at the contacts?

 

Yes, I did open both the driving cars (the NSE livery and the blue & grey NSE-branded) to fit the decoders but as the lights did not work on both cars decided not to mess about trying to ascertain what was wrong.

 

I did contact my retailer (The Hobby Shop at Faversham) yesterday and he said that he would email his Bachmann Rep to report the problem. Be interesting to see what develops.......

 

Keith

Link to post
Share on other sites

I took mine apart tonight to put a chip into it and find out why the driver light array was not functioning. My suspicion as said before was that the roof lighting electrical contacts between the upper and lower bodies were not making contact.

 

Before taking it apart I decided to do a sanity check, whereby due to the rather complex nature electrical wiring between units, I decided to check the the lights also fail to function when connected to a trailer car from a perfectly functioning 1st batch EPB. This is to confirm that problem really is in the driving car (as suspected) and not the trailer. The only reason for doing this check is because the driver takes a while to stripe apart, the check is quick, and if the driver had functioned then we would have saved time and switch to the trailer.

Bref the problem is definitely in the driving car.

 

Bachmann instructions and certain web sites already explain how to take this apart.

 

Once we get it apart, I placed the drive chassis on the rails attached to a trailer, block the train from moving. Attach 2 crocodile clips between the roof contacts and the contacts on the stubs of the chassis.

 

post-15098-0-79317100-1478464289.jpg

 

Make sure you get the clips the right way around, since they don,t light up on the opposite stubs

 

post-15098-0-52243300-1478464272.jpg

 

Adjust the roof contacts, so that they can touch the stubs without having to fully fit the upper and lower bodies ( this is to ensure it all works before you press the shell home, it's a pain to take apart again). We did this, however again no internal lighting.

 

Looking through the couch sides, one roof contact was not making contact with a stub. The stubs were pushed too wide:

 

post-15098-0-21193700-1478464321.jpg

 

Remove the roof (boy I,m glad I did not push that home) and gently squeeze the stubs together (note, the plastic feels hard and brittle here so, gently does it)

 

post-15098-0-71527700-1478464343.jpg

 

Once, I tried the again with the body loose fitted. The lighting now works:

 

post-15098-0-63021100-1478464250.jpg

 

Added the chip, checked again, not fit it all back again.

Link to post
Share on other sites

After a couple of days, the stubs splayed apart again loosing all roof lighting in the coach, so off with the body again to add a bit of wire to keep the pair close together.

 

My recommendation is (for anyone with the same lighting problem of course) is to do this at the first attempt (I live abroad and did not fancy posting back this huge train pack).

 

post-15098-0-56418500-1478632865.jpg

 

post-15098-0-97916700-1478632875.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...