Rob Pulham Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Looking good Al, I am watching this with particular interest for a couple of reasons. I have a 4F kit to do at some point (not sadly a BM kit, it is a Comet chassis and Tender that I will mate up with a Hughes and Styles body which is very basic - a bit like a Jamieson kit) and I would like to have a go at at a compensated chassis albeit in 00 not P4. I had also thought of approaching Brassmasters for the inside motion but wasn't sure if it would fit between the frames in 00 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Any chance of seeing a picture of the BM LNWR Precursor Jol...? Larry Larry, I'll start a new thread. Jol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkmouse Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 I had also thought of approaching Brassmasters for the inside motion but wasn't sure if it would fit between the frames in 00 It does come with parts on the fret for narrow gauge, the MSB, (the critical bit) measures out at 12.05mm, I don't have any Comet spacers to hand to compare to. However, I don't think you could fit hornblocks in as well in 00, it's very cramped in there. Thinks... Actually, the Comet sprung ones might just fit, they are very narrow. Is the Comet chassis one of their upgraded ones? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 I am not sure - I got it earlier this year from mainly trains - how would I tell? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkmouse Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 They will probably have two small notches in the frames above each hornblock cutout to hold the spring. But I might be wrong... Geoff, are you out there? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted May 3, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 3, 2010 So are you using the new Brassmasters thin bearings, Al? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Those hornblock bearings look like Exactoscale ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkmouse Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 Those hornblock bearings look like Exactoscale ones. Yup, they are, I suspect this kit was designed prior to the introduction of the thin BM ones. Oh and there has been progress on the kit, just nothing worth taking pics of. I've been making up loads of overlays for the motion, but that does mean I should hopefully crack on quite quickly when I start assembly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
artisan100 Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Geoff, are you out there? Yup, I'm here. The 4F is one of the updated chassis. The space between the frames of a Comet 00 chassis is 10.8mm. HTH. Any more queries, just shout. Geoff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bigcheeseplant Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 I have one of these kits I started on the inside cranks and valve gear and then put it aside, I must get round to finishing mine although it does not fit into my current project. There was a review in an MRJ about building the kit. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkmouse Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Morning all! Thanks for that Geoff, sounds like it might be a bit tight for you Rob unless you use fairly finescale wheels and gentle curves. Dave, were you building yours in 00? Anyway, just having some breakfast, then I'll crack on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 If the good Captain K hadn't nabbed the cheap one on here i'd have one to build too, not that i'm bitter or anything . Ah well, plenty of bring and buys yet to get one and then i'll have a great guide here to help too . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkmouse Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Well, after I thought about it, the soldering was put on hold. One of the things about this kit is that lots of very careful solder joints have to be made if you don't want everything to set up solid. So, the first thing up this morning was to use metal blacking on just about everything concerned with the motion to try and avoid solder going where it's not supposed to be. Here's the first batch: Lots more to do! But, whist stuff is cleaning up I did fit the hornblocks: Nothing new here, just standard technique with the London Road jigs and coupling rods. Now one of the things you have to do is file various clearances on the hornblock frames: These ones on the front are to allow space for the con rods. And you also have to cut notches in all of them to allow clearance for the springing. I did some before I fitted them, but was concerned that I might distort them whilst cutting, so I left the others and will do them now they're fitted with a slitting disc in the minidrill. Next up, make up the axle sleeve and drill the axle for the retaining bolt. The instructions just tell you to file a flat onto one side of the axle, but I have my doubts that will be robust enough. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkmouse Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 If the good Captain K hadn't nabbed the cheap one on here i'd have one to build too, not that i'm bitter or anything . Ah well, plenty of bring and buys yet to get one and then i'll have a great guide here to help too . Hey, they all come round eventually, I got mine quite reasonably on Ebay a few months ago, and I'm sure more will turn up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 .....file various clearances on the hornblock frames......And you also have to cut notches in all of them to allow clearance for the springing..... If you remember Chris Pendlenton's article in MRJ 6, this was exactly how he modified his guides at the time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkmouse Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 If you remember Chris Pendlenton's article in MRJ 6, this was exactly how he modified his guides at the time. Nope, waaayy before I got back into this hobby. Right. Important advice for anyone building this kit. You need broaches. Lots of broaches. Especially a big taper broach. Why? Because all the simulated big ends need a fair amount of opening out for the supplied half etched bearings, and the bearings need opening out to fit on the axle sleeve. The later are quite difficult, because if you try to hold them by hand, then the broach catches, the bearing rotates and the half etch slices open the end of your finger... Anyway, a sticking plaster later, and here's progress so far. Not much is it? This shows the sleeve and axle drilled and fitted, with a keyway made from 1mm brass wire soldered on and shaped, and one big end test fitted. BM mention that they supply a 14BA nut and bolt set for this purpose, but I couldn't find one in any of the baggies. Not a great loss, I had some in stock, but you may also want to buy more, as the b*****s vanish into the carpet with annoying regularity. I lost three before I got to the stage you see here... I get the feeling this kit may take longer than I thought. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Budd Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 I get the feeling this kit may take longer than I thought. Mine's taken over 4 years so far and still no where near finished although the tender's built! As I'm in the middle of building the track for my first P4 layout I'd better get a move on and try to complete it. I'm still not totally convinced I can get all the waggly bits fitted, and moving, without affecting the running of the loco however, but we'll see. I look forward to seeing your build progress. Regards Arthur Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkmouse Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Mine's taken over 4 years so far and still no where near finished although the tender's built! Well, you're doing better than me then, I haven't even opened the bag with the tender bits in yet! Well, (probably, depending on how boring the TV is tonight), the last update for today. Crossheads added to con rods. I suspect a different part was originally supplied, as the crosshead is far too narrow to fit in the con rod head as designed, and there isn't really enough meat in the casting to file it out to fit. So, the half etched detail had to go. Not a great issue, as you don't see it anyway once assembled. Making up the big ends. As I said earlier, I blacked everything up to stop solder going where it shouldn't, so before I could fix all the laminates together, I used a drill bit to clean back to bare metal where I did want it to go. It was then assembled with a bit of brass wire pinning everything in alignment. Then, having forgot to before I turned it on, I had a teabreak whilst the iron cooled down so I could fit the small bit. After that, it was just a case of using a tiny amount of solder to fix the wire each side, then clean up and job done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Morning all! Thanks for that Geoff, sounds like it might be a bit tight for you Rob unless you use fairly finescale wheels and gentle curves. Dave, were you building yours in 00? Anyway, just having some breakfast, then I'll crack on. Thanks for the info Al/Geoff, The gentle curves I can live with but the wheels are original Romfords (I think) that came with the Hughes and Styles kit - some of them (either the insulated ones or the plain) need the crank pin holes tapping out. It's a shame as I would have liked to have had a go at the inside motion. There is a set of 4mm Rod Neep generic inside motion on ebay at the moment that I will keep my eye on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 ....There is a set of 4mm Rod Neep generic inside motion on ebay at the moment that I will keep my eye on. Think this might be the one which Peter K also sold (I've got a set). May have been designed with the GC "Director" in mind..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 At the risk of Al's thread being hijacked again, do you know if they would fit between 00 frames Ivan? No point watching them if they won't. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkmouse Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 At the risk of Al's thread being hijacked again... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 At the risk of Al's thread being hijacked again.... ...do you know if they would fit between 00 frames Ivan? .... The instructions are silent, but looking at them I'd say EM/P4 realistically, and OO only if you're mad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 After some of the things I have done with my Q7 I am definitely in the mad as a hatter category. I will continue to watch them and worst case I will get a set of BM ones and see if I can hack them about to give at least a representation of what they are to represent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 .....I will continue to watch them .... I'll be watching them too. They are the same as the Peter K set that I picked up years ago, which were sold via Exactoscale. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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