dseagull Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 A discussion in the always good fun Ebay Madness thread has revealed that an article in the October 1995 issue of MORILL showed how to produce an SECR 'H' Class from a 14XX. (There was also mention of an earlier article regarding the same conversion, starting with a Hornby Dublo R1). Just wondered if anyone has attempted either (specifically the 14XX conversion) and can provide any advice on the merits or otherwise of this? Ta Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 PM sent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Why not just get the Southeastern Finecast loco http://www.sefinecast.co.uk/Locomotives/New%20and%20Revised%20Loco%20Kits%20Page%205.htm ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Why not just get the Southeastern Finecast loco http://www.sefinecast.co.uk/Locomotives/New%20and%20Revised%20Loco%20Kits%20Page%205.htm ? He might have to, unless he can't stand soldering whitemetal!! Also, nobody has produced the correct driving wheel for the "H" class since Sharman Wheels went down the pan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravenser Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Having just found and looked at the article in question , I'm not sure I'd call it a conversion. I quote : "The new bits amount to something in the region of cab, bunker back, boiler and smokebox." Those are the bits of the body you'll be scratchbuilding.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dseagull Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 It does look, to put it mildly, something of a challenge... Happy enough with plastic, but it took me close to an hour to solder 4 feeds to track the other night. Ihate to imagine the job I'd make of a whitemetal kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Whilst I think its best to solder the larger parts, lots of whitemetal kits have been succsessfully built using epoxy glue. As for soldering, I now never rely on resin in the solder even for electrical joints. 1 Have clean metal 2 For soldering whitemetal, put shavings of low melt solder onto the joint, not on to iron 3 Plenty of liquid flux 4 Hot iron on work long enough to evaporate the flux 5 Clean flux residue off work The larger pieces of whitemetal do act as a bit of a heat sink (you have a lot more lee way with them), and dont forget the solder melts at 70 degrees. To undo the joint put into boiling water. But I bet more kits are put together with epoxy glue, which is much better than the old days of contact adhesive Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Scaling a drawing from Google images to 4mm (as close as I could get it) the Dublo/Wrenn R1* is a close match as far as the rear of the cab. A new bunker would be required (A nice square shape, but the curved top might be a problem). Otherwise the running plate in front of the smokebox needs shortening, and the the front sandboxes and the moulded handrails require removal. The leading axle is more or less in the right place, but the second axle is about 4mm too far forward ( coupled wheelbase 7' 6"?). This presents problems as this is the driven axle, but the driving wheels are, in any case too small (19mm (4' 9") as against 22mm (5' 6"). The bogie wheelbase appears to be 5' 3" (21mm). * It should be as the H and R1 classes had the same boiler. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trebor Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 He might have to, unless he can't stand soldering whitemetal!! Also, nobody has produced the correct driving wheel for the "H" class since Sharman Wheels went down the pan. and there ain't no more of them either "KOF" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Scaling a drawing from Google images to 4mm (as close as I could get it) the Dublo/Wrenn R1* is a close match as far as the rear of the cab. A new bunker would be required (A nice square shape, but the curved top might be a problem). A few H class locos had flat sided bunkers - I think this was to allow better visibility for the driver when work sandwiched between a pair of driving trailers. One of those would be even easier. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 and there ain't no more of them either "KOF" Yes, I wonder who swiped the last set.....? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Collier Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Greetings, Not a lot of help at the moment but May's Model Rail has just dropped through my door and at the rear shows what will be in the next issue: how to create a Southern 'H' on a budget. It only shows a photo but it is clearly done by converting a Hornby R1. Gareth Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dseagull Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 Thanks for that, think I might wait then...! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lswrm7 Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Hope this is of some help. theres a guy on ebay selling resin body kits that fit onto a modified Triang/Hornby M7 chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted May 13, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 13, 2013 Short piece in the latest June 'Model Rail' no 183 about converting a H.Dublo R1 to an H class. Uses a 'Branchlines' etched brass chassis and Comet bogie. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Slightly confused - if you are building an etched chassis, why not just save up your pennies and build a complete Finecast H? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
deeftrundle Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Hope this is of some help. theres a guy on ebay selling resin body kits that fit onto a modified Triang/Hornby M7 chassis. I have had a go at this resin H model. See my workbench. This documents the problems I had and my attempts to produce a presentable model. (This is in another forum I am afraid. I just can't post in multiple forums, life is too short.) BTW I have a spare H resin body if you want it (gratis). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Someone really ought to get onto Alan Gibson Workshop and "encourage" them to produce driving wheels for the "H"... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Short piece in the latest June 'Model Rail' no 183 about converting a H.Dublo R1 to an H class. Uses a 'Branchlines' etched brass chassis and Comet bogie. It is indeed a short piece. It is certainly not a step by step! It seems that the constructor has been using Branchlines R1 etched chassis with Wrenn/Dublo R1 bodies (as R1 0-6-0Ts.) and has adapted an R1 chassis kit by replacing the rear driving wheels with a modified Comet "Loco" bogie. The two pictures of the model show the body part way through, with the bunker lengthened with white plastic card (No dimensions given.) and the finished model in SR Black livery (Starboard Side View.) There is also a nice Starboard side view of 263 in SECR livery on the Bluebell Railway. So, I may still have a go at a Wrenn/Dublo R1 body, and a Tri-ang Hornby M7 Chassis at some point! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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