N15class Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Hi Pete, Looking very good Sir! I have to admire your skill at cutting plastic - mine never seems to cut in straight lines..... Could you not make some springs up from strips of plasticard? I have done similar in the past from strip brass. Thanks Rob I have been experimenting with making out plastic. I did one before lunch. I will know whether it worked or not when I can find it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Martin Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Start of a new project for me. I am scratch building a LSWR 24 foot special luggage van, diagram 929. I managed to get a copy of a drawing for this from a kind member of this parish. After some work I got the drawing sized and printed. It is just under half a millimeter short, I do not think this will be a problem as I cannot see it unless I put the ruler on the drawing. I am going for the lace of panelling as I did for the trailer third. For this I glued a copy of the drawing to some plasticard with pritt stick glue. I found it much easier to punch out the corners and cut, than I did with the TT that I had drawn onto the card. So you stuck the drawing down to a sheet of 10 thou (?) with pritt, then cut the panelling out, then removed the drawing, is that right? I occasionally suffer from pangs of pre-groupingism and find myself wondering how one would do panelling in 2mm. How do you separate the remains of the drawing from the styrene sheet? The drawing I am using was done by R E Tunston. Not sure if it was ever published in the Railway Constructor magazine. But I built a 4mm one from that drawing. There was an article in MRC in April 1976 on "LSWR 4-Wheel Luggage Vans", written by Gordon Weddell. It doesn't include anything exactly like your model, although it does cover a 22' luggage van of 1883 which has the same pattern of panelling above waist level (no lower panels), but with droplights in the doors and no louvres. Also, it's got an arc-roof. There's a note to the effect that "A drawing of special 24ft Luggage Van will be published shortly". I don't know if it ever was: I certainly don't have a copy of it. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 So you stuck the drawing down to a sheet of 10 thou (?) with pritt, then cut the panelling out, then removed the drawing, is that right? I occasionally suffer from pangs of pre-groupingism and find myself wondering how one would do panelling in 2mm. How do you separate the remains of the drawing from the styrene sheet? There was an article in MRC in April 1976 on "LSWR 4-Wheel Luggage Vans", written by Gordon Weddell. It doesn't include anything exactly like your model, although it does cover a 22' luggage van of 1883 which has the same pattern of panelling above waist level (no lower panels), but with droplights in the doors and no louvres. Also, it's got an arc-roof. There's a note to the effect that "A drawing of special 24ft Luggage Van will be published shortly". I don't know if it ever was: I certainly don't have a copy of it. Jim Hi Jim Yes I glued the drawings on with pritt stick I found it held OK for about a day then started to fall off. But I found by glueing wating half a hour or so then cutting out it was all well. The drawing did stick quite well to a couple of bits but the drawing even peeled off of these easily. Yes I know the vans you mean. There was a complete series by Gordon I have somewhere in my stuff in the UK the drawings. In one issue of the MRC there is this van in 4mm. I used it to build one of these in that scale.The one I used by Tunstel is 7mm. or there about. My biggest trouble was getting it to print dimensionally right. Once done did more than enough copies. How to do the paneling in 2mm very carefully I would say. The way I cut the paneling is to use a short length of tube. I file it to a half round at one end. Then carefully file the inside edge to make a sharp cutting edge on the outer diameter. The tube gets fitted into a pinvice and I give it a light tap to cut the corners. Then join the corners with knife and ruler. Hopefully this makes sense. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 A little more done to the PLV. The roof vents and oil lamp cover have been fitted. The oil lamp will be fitted once it no longer needs to be upside down. It is rather taller than the other fittings. The end steps except for the long top one have been fitted. The smaller ones were some etched ones I had in stock. The body hand rails will be started soon. there are quite a few for a NPCS. I also need to make up four vent hoods for the ends. you can see where they belng at the top of the ends. The brake is a mixture of etched and scratch built parts.I am hoping the brake gear is right. I think it was originally fitted with the outside linked, X shaped pull rods. But all the I have show a different system. I have made my rendition of another odd system used by the LSWR. It looks about right to pictures of similar vans. Next up are the springs. I have laminated the four springs but have been putting off the J hangers. Well here is number one. It seems to of work ok. By the time the lower step is in place most will be hidden. Finally first one fitted, looks like the left hand hanger needs tweeking. But I thing it looks good. The axle box will look better once the etched covers are on. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Wow Pete, that looks great! How heavy is it currently? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Wow Pete, that looks great! How heavy is it currently? Thanks Jack Not heavy enough. I forgot about weight before I sealed the box. so I will need to add some underneath. But to answer the question it is about 140 grams, but I will need it to be about 190 grams when finished. I work on a gram per millimeter over the buffer bodies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Just seeing if my idea for mounting the lower steps would work, and also to make sure the springs etc looked ok when details are in front of them. I am happy with it just three corners to do. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Brilliant work Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Brilliant work Pete. Thanks Tom I am hoping the paint does not show up to many faults. At least there is no lining to do on this one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Hi Peter, What a nice model. The work on the underframe and running gear has come out very well. Looking forward to seeing it painted! All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Hi Peter, What a nice model. The work on the underframe and running gear has come out very well. Looking forward to seeing it painted! All the best, Colin Thanks Colin After getting on with the body so quickly I sort of lost my mojo with the underframe. I kept putting it off not quite knowing what to do. Once started it all fell into place. So not as hard as I was making it out to be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Thanks Colin After getting on with the body so quickly I sort of lost my mojo with the underframe. I kept putting it off not quite knowing what to do. Once started it all fell into place. So not as hard as I was making it out to be. Hi Peter Very nice. My very first '0' gauge model was a scratch built, plastic, HR passenger brake with outside vertical ribs. There is something very satisfying about building in plastic. I also scratch built a LMS full brake following the system in David Jenkinson's book. Your model has got me thinking again about building another one!! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Next up are the springs. I have laminated the four springs but have been putting off the J hangers. Well here is number one. It seems to of work ok. By the time the lower step is in place most will be hidden. Hi Peter, That's looking mighty fine. What did you use to represent the upper part of the pin through the J hanger - it look like something clear - a bead perhaps? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) Hi Peter Very nice. My very first '0' gauge model was a scratch built, plastic, HR passenger brake with outside vertical ribs. There is something very satisfying about building in plastic. I also scratch built a LMS full brake following the system in David Jenkinson's book. Your model has got me thinking again about building another one!! Sandy Thanks Sandy I am always looking at your locos and seeing how I can improve mine. I also enjoy using plasticard. I think David Jenkinson had a lot of influence over carriage construction, not only showing it was fairly easy to do, but proving it to be a solid long lasting method. Go on have a go again, I find it very relaxing after metal bashing. Edited March 22, 2014 by N15class Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Hi Peter, That's looking mighty fine. What did you use to represent the upper part of the pin through the J hanger - it look like something clear - a bead perhaps? Thanks Rob The top of the hangers over the spring is a length of plastic rod with a cross hole drilled for the brass wire mounting. The springs were glued using solvent, the hangers soldered and the all the rest was super glue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Almost at the finishing post. I just wish I had picked something with less handrails. And look ing at the drawing which is next to the laptop I see I have missed the horse hooks. At least it is now not after painting. Also a different shot of the axlebox, spring and step, just to prove there is more than one done. Here we have the end almost finished just needs lamp irons and the size loading plate. (Whatever it is really called). And of coarse the vacuum brake pipe. A side veiw shoing the handrails on the side. Still got to do the non step end handrails. The oil lamp has now been fitted too. Just down to the bits mentioned above and the brake levers and guards. A little extra weight, about 40 grams (Lead glued underneath). A good scrub then painting. So hopefully on Monday I will be able to get it in to primer. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Hi Peter I note that you say "(Lead glued underneath).". Is this because you have effectively built a sealed box? My reason for asking is that I have been told in the past that you should not seal an item that has been put together with solvent as it continues to give of a gas/vapour long after it has been built and can cause distortion and delaminating of the plastic in the long term. Are you able to put in some vent holes in the floor? Kind regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Superb Peter, You may have inspired me to have another go at scratch building in plasticard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Very detailed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Hi Peter I note that you say "(Lead glued underneath).". Is this because you have effectively built a sealed box? My reason for asking is that I have been told in the past that you should not seal an item that has been put together with solvent as it continues to give of a gas/vapour long after it has been built and can cause distortion and delaminating of the plastic in the long term. Are you able to put in some vent holes in the floor? Kind regards Sandy Hi Sandy Yes I have left holes for venting right through to the underside of the roof, but not big enough to get lead sheet through. I like to add the weight to the inside of the floor. but forgot on this I think it was because it all went together so well and quickly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Superb Peter, You may have inspired me to have another go at scratch building in plasticard. Thanks Rob Go on it makes a change from all that kit building. Plus you end up with something that the rest are unlikely to have. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Nice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Now we can see how poor the model really is, primer and cruel enlargements show up all the slack model making on my part. I think I will get some black plasticard for the overlays next time. After the last post when I thought there were only a couple of bits to do. I spent my session yesterday just finishing this off ready for priming. Well here are the photos. Not much one can say. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 That looks very good, well done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 That looks very good, well done. Thanks I am hoping that the errors will not be so obvious when it is green. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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