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The Furness Valley Railroad


chaz
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Chaz - what are you after from Grandt?

I notice on eBay there are various window frames available but not many in a pack and relatively expensive - send me PM if you want me to look for something. I am next in the UK in mid-November.

Edited by Jeff Smith
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Progress with the freight house. Here is the first section part planked and with some edging and corner trim but very unfinished.

 

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I decided to detail the first section before doing any work on the shell for the rest of the building. The spoon? Well when you cut card, even with a very sharp blade, you are quite likely to raise a burr on the underside of the cut. The curved back of a spoon is a useful tool to burnish the burr flat, given a flatter surface to glue.

 

The second photo shows the section in position against the rough mock-up.

 

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More later.

 

Chaz

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How are you doing the planking? Is that some kind of textured sheet, or coffee stirrers (or similar)?

 

 

It's strips of 0.6mm plywood cut on a Proxon miniature circular saw, painted front and edges with Tamiya acrylic paint and glued on with a fast-acting PVA. I paint the card before I glue the planks on, to avoid white showing if the gaps end up a little wide in places.

 

Chaz

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A bit more progress...

 

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With the weather so hot I am spending a lot of time walking, it's one way of avoiding the layout room in the roof which gets very warm, despite the insulation. It does mean however that time on the model is limited.

 

Chaz

Edited by chaz
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I grabbed a few hours today and despite the stifling heat managed a bit more progress. Normally I would work through on a model like this but with the weather as it is I have to take frequent breaks.

 

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Top left is a short section of side that will be on the main line side in front of the pillar. Top right is an internal partition which will be where the shed narrows to fit inside the mainline curve. At the bottom is the long side which will be next to the spur. The doors are a bit larger than the doors on Bachmann boxcars but still look small.

 

I paint the card with the colour that I will use on the planking before I glue on the planks. This stops little slivers of white showing if the gaps between planks are wide enough to allow it. I also draw light guide lines with a pencil so that the planks do not stray from the vertical as I add them.

 

Chaz

 

 

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post-9071-0-74440200-1530290213.jpg

 

A trial fit of the walls - the apparent poor fit at the corners is because the walls are just leaning against each other for the photo.

 

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A view from the other side. 

 

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Some of the unfinished parts laid out. I find it much easier to add details to these while they are flat on the bench.

 

I am using the Fast Tack Glue for all the detail and assembly work. I find it very good, but you do have to be accurate when you place parts - you have a short few seconds when you can move things around but once the glue “grabs” any attempt to move anything makes the joint fail. Then the glue must be removed (it scrapes off easily) and re-applied.

 

I do find the nozzle on the glue-pot bungs up frequently. I got tired of mislaying the piece of wire I was using to free the nozzle off so I mounted a piece in a dowel handle - painted yellow to make it easier to find!

 

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I have planned some overlaps of the detail at the corners which will make assembly easier. This doesn’t have to be perfect because…

 

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…the corners can be tidied up with the card overlays.

 

There is still some way to go but I may be ready to assemble the bits together over this coming weekend.

 

Chaz

 

Just noticed the error on the card overlay, which needs trimming. You can trust a camera to find such blemishes.

Edited by chaz
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post-9071-0-73228700-1530290524.jpg

 

I should have said that the section of wall with the door and window, visible in the view above, is the one which I will add once the model is in place. Detailing the corners will have to be done carefully after assembly.

 

Chaz

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Progress with the building has been a bit limited. The heat in the roof is daunting and an hour is about my limit, however I have done some work.

 

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The picture above is of the part-assembled section at the far end of the building.

 

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Here it is seen from the other side with the wall with the loading doors laid in place.

 

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That's the shell brought together to check the fit. The red arrow points to the wall section that will not be fixed until the building is in place around the pillar. The joints between the cross-walls and the loading wall will be stiffened inside with card ribs so that the building is kept in line even though one wall section is temporarily missing.

 

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A view from the main line side. There may need to be a bit of trimming required to ensure that the corners will come together squarely. 

 

Once the walls are assembled and the building fixed in place the roof sections can be made. A bit of clever jointing or overlapping may be needed to fit these around the pillar.

 

Chaz

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The freight house is closer to being ready to assemble.

 

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Fitting a floor inside a building is a good way of ensuring that the corners come up square, however this is obviously not possible in the section of the building that surrounds the pillar. Instead I am adding an "L" shape which will hold this corner square.

 

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Another trial fit around the pillar, carefully set out, shows the fit to be a good one.

 

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I will have to paint the interior a dark colour and dirty the window glazing as I don't intend to detail it. Do I weather the sections before installing it on the layout? - once it's around the pillar it will be captive. I'm inclined to add some weathering and some details and maybe just add a bit of touching-up after assembly.

 

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The model feels satisfyingly substantial as it comes together. Artist's mounting board, stiffened with square section timber and detailed with exterior "planks" has given it a weight and presence I don't associate with a card structure. 

 

Scratch building a model takes rather longer than putting a kit together but is just as much fun.

 

Chaz

 

 

 

 

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Difficult to decide what colour to paint the pillar. Assuming the roof will be weathered asphalt or shingles perhaps continue the same colour up the pillar?...to try and detract the eye. Not sure what I would do.

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Difficult to decide what colour to paint the pillar. Assuming the roof will be weathered asphalt or shingles perhaps continue the same colour up the pillar?...to try and detract the eye. Not sure what I would do.

 

 

Yes Jeff, you have highlighted a problem that has exercised my mind. As for distracting the eye I hope the building itself will do that. I could colour an inch or two of the pillar above the roof to match as you have suggested and it wouldn't be too difficult or time consuming to try this on some overlays but I might well leave the pillar in its existing gloss white. Whatever I do it would always remain an odd, out-of-place feature - an incongruity. So I think ignoring it in the way that most of us accept and ignore the front edge of our layouts might well be best.

 

Chaz

 

What I really need is a cloaking device like the baddies in the Star Trek movies use to hide their spaceships. Amazon or Ebay?

Edited by chaz
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Yes Jeff, you have highlighted a problem that has exercised my mind. As for distracting the eye I hope the building itself will do that. I could colour an inch or two of the pillar above the roof to match as you have suggested and it wouldn't be too difficult or time consuming to try this on some overlays but I might well leave the pillar in its existing gloss white. Whatever I do it would always remain an odd, out-of-place feature - an incongruity. So I think ignoring it in the way that most of us accept and ignore the front edge of our layouts might well be best.

 

Chaz

 

What I really need is a cloaking device like the baddies in the Star Trek movies use to hide their spaceships. Amazon or Ebay?

When you look at the pillar what is the background behind it? - paint it the same colour above the roof line, and the eye should ignore it

Edited by shortliner
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When you look at the pillar what is the background behind it? - paint it the same colour above the roof line, and the eye should ignore it

 

that will work best when the pillar is only viewed from a limited range and preferably from one height. With this one in the middle you can see both sides of it.  I would suggest that you paint to match the roof so that from a sitting or photo taking position the ridge line looks to be correct and paint it a sky colour above. Matt slightly off white can be a sky colour or a rather washed out blue. Of course from some viewpoints you may want some kind of board to block view of further baseboards when taking photographs. Actually the eye is rather better at not noticing things like the pillar but the camera has yet to learn than trick.

 

Don

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that will work best when the pillar is only viewed from a limited range and preferably from one height. With this one in the middle you can see both sides of it.  I would suggest that you paint to match the roof so that from a sitting or photo taking position the ridge line looks to be correct and paint it a sky colour above. Matt slightly off white can be a sky colour or a rather washed out blue. Of course from some viewpoints you may want some kind of board to block view of further baseboards when taking photographs. Actually the eye is rather better at not noticing things like the pillar but the camera has yet to learn than trick.

 

Don

 

 

Don, I think you have highlighted a problem that all modellers face. Cameras are quite merciless in detecting any compromises that we may allow. Look back over the posts on Dock Green that include photos taken at shows - many of them will include bits of the venue, the operators and show visitors. I either accept that or condemn myself to hours with the computer and Photoshop!

 

You mention viewpoints - I can't see any way of disguising the pillar so that it blends in from any angle. Think about back-scenes  - how often have you seen buildings or roads represented on them that work fine from one angle but fail completely from any other? I think the best I could do would be to represent a section of the pillar as a square part of the building projecting from the roof. The trouble is I can't think what it might be and how to make it a convincing structure.

 

Before I started the freight house I did consider surrounding the pillar with bushes and small trees - but given where it is that seemed even more unlikely.

 

Chaz

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When you look at the pillar what is the background behind it? - paint it the same colour above the roof line, and the eye should ignore it

 

Yes, that sounds plausible  - but for most of the time the background to the building for an operator will be the main line and the junction with the line to the coal mine. I may well experiment with adding colour to the pillar but I fear that it will remain obvious.

 

Chaz 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The freight house saga continues...

 

I have made a walkway which runs along the front of the loading doors.

 

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The supporting structure is 1/8th inch balsa with planking on top made of my favourite 0.6mm plywood. I have also added a weathering wash which I may add to later.

 

I have decided to use the thin ply as roof panels joined at the peak with pre-formed brass strips (glued to their undersides).

 

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I bent the strip in folding bars held in a vice. I have the angle fairly close but a final adjustment can be made once the roof panels are glued on.

 

A view of the next sub-assembly... 

 

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This is the rear (narrow) section with the long wall glued in place. I will leave this overnight for the glue to harden right off before adding the office.

 

I couldn't resist another test assembly with all the sections brought together. Once they are glued together (with that damned pillar inside) I can use cereal-box card to work out the shape of the roof panels with the cut-outs around the pillar.

 

Here are four photos of the test assembly. 

 

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Chaz

Edited by chaz
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I now have the building’s shell assembled ready to install on the layout.

 

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The corner joint on the right of my hand needs the card strengthening ribs so that it can be handled without damage.

 

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Above the shell in place on the layout, with the remaining section of wall in the foreground.

 

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The last wall fitted in place as a final check - all is well. If this all seems to be taking a while the present weather keeps me out of the roof during the heat of the day! Please can we have some rain?

 

I may well build a few more buildings using card and square section wood. A quick Google turned up a supplier called Tilgear who can supply a pack of 100 pieces of hardwood 6 x 6 x 600mm for 12.95 plus VAT. I no longer have access to a circular saw big enough to prepare this section myself so this looks a useful source.

 

Chaz

Edited by chaz
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Yet another progress report on the building. 

 

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I was going to spend some time making the roof fit tightly around the pillar but seeing this section in place it hardly seems worth the effort. The masking tape will keep the paint off the pillar when I colour the "roofing felt".

 

(I must remember to glaze the windows before I fix the roof on.)

 

Chaz

Edited by chaz
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I started post #1268 with the the words....


"It’s been a while since I posted much on this topic - I have been side-tracked by my other hobby and particularly by a new camera. This morning I thought it time I got back in the swing, preferably with a new project, so I started planning a building for Dixon, the station at the top end of the FVRR."
 
This model has achieved what I wanted - it has certainly got me "back in the swing". I am already visualising how the area round building might be detailed, with areas of weed growth, worn paths, discarded junk and the detritus of a working railway. Every time I add a building (some kit built, some scratch-built)  an area of Dixon will be filled.
 
I had perhaps forgotten how much I enjoy this aspect of modelling. You will have your own favourites - if you get bogged down indulge yourself with a project that is in one of them, it works!
 
Chaz
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