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Copenhagen to Penzance by rail


Mikkel

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Back in June I had some work to do in London. I live in Copenhagen, so a devious plan was hatched to extend the work trip with some time off for railways and family. I even managed to do a bit of research for the Farthing layouts.

 

 

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I went by rail to London. It was 16 hours on 5 trains, but I enjoyed the views and got most of a day’s work done on the laptop.
 

 

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Early departure from Copenhagen Central at 5.44. No rush to the airport hours before, no security checks, no queues, no boarding hassles. Loved it.

 

 

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We crossed the belts from Zealand to Funen and then to Jutland. Part of me misses the old ferry crossings with the coaches on board, but the bridges are certainly faster.


 

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I got off at Fredericia, an important Danish junction. While waiting for my connection I watched the trains divide for different destinations in Jutland.

    

 

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A lengthy car train had come up from Germany. Quite a fortune here.

 

 

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Modern day shunter at work.

 

 

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Then on to Germany and Hamburg. I’d chosen an itinerary that gave me 45-90 minutes at each interchange. It avoids the stress of small delays and allows time for a quick bite or drink.

 

 

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That proved a good idea. In Hamburg the schedules are tight and platform space limited. There was a 15 minute delay and we went through a series of “platform hopping” exercises. I watched a tired and rather sarcastic train manager on the platform:

 

Passenger: “What platform for the train to Bremen?”
Train manager: “It has just been announced”
Passenger: “Yes but we couldn’t hear it”
Train manager: “Then you must listen better”.

 

 

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Next was Cologne, with its light airy feel and the iconic advert for “Echt Kölnisch Wasser” on the end wall. There’s a lovely vibe to these big German stations in summertime.

 

 

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But for some it’s just work of course!

 

 

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Then on to Bruxelles Midi (French), a.k.a. Brussel Zuid (Flemish). I liked the large destination board, no tiny screens here!

 

 

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Next the Eurostar, my first trip. TBH I was a bit disappointed, a dull interior and the Chunnel completely dark. No starched uniforms, no silverware, no sips of champagne. Oh well.

 

 

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St Pancras made up for it though, sleek and modern yet carrying history forward.

 

 

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Outside St Pancras, the old Midland hotel beckoned. Fat chance on my budget! I headed for my drab little hotel nearby, with a tiny basement room where you could hear the Tube rumbling by. At least it felt real.

 

 

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Next morning I had a few hours before work began, so took a walk and paid my respects to the other termini in the area.

 

 

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King’s Cross first.

 

 

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I liked the architecture here, those arches mix aesthetics and function so well. Good looking trains too.

 

 

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I’m a steam type but can appreciate modern stock, and Kings Cross was full of it this morning. 

 

 

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The booking hall also works well, I think. 


 

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Then, er, Euston. 

 

 

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Good idea.

 

 

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But I enjoyed the outside seating area. I understand there was quite a commotion when the old station was demolished. No wonder.

 

 

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The stone lodges are among the last remains of the old Euston. The station names are a nice touch. It's now a pub, but sadly too early for beer.

 

 

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After a week of work I had a weekend + two days off, and duly headed for Paddington.

 

 

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They say that time travel is impossible. But sometimes if you pause and squint a little…

 

 

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… it is not so difficult. (Source: Getty Images).
 

 

 

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Nice trains too.

 

 

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When at Paddington I have a tradition: A Cornish pasty and a mag from Smiths. After a long absence it was nice to repeat it - though I doubt that the Kernow fraternity on here would approve of mass-produced pasty!

 

 

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I headed West, stopping first at Reading to see if anything remained of the old goods yards there.

 

 

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I was especially interested in Vastern Road Yard, photos of which I have often pored over. The tree-lined perimeters provided inspiration for the goods yards at Farthing. (Source: Britain from Above).

 

 

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Well, there are still trees. The rest is a shopping center and car park. Such dazzling ingenuity.

 

 

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I looked for the site of an atmospheric photo that appears in the excellent GWRJ articles on Reading goods workings by Chris Turner and John Copsey (Nos 81 and 82). 
 

 

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The view today. Ho-hum.
 

 

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Further down the road, the old King’s Meadow Goods Yard is now an office/ industrial estate. But the bridge that carried the GWR over the connecting line to the SECR remains.

 

 

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A Google Earth view of the bridge. Seemingly the connecting line to the SECR is still there. I couldn't spot the track from the ground though, has it been recently lifted/re-arranged?

 

 

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Anyway, here’s one for @Compound2632, who has an interest in the Huntley & Palmer’s biscuit factory. If I’m not mistaken this is the “Biscuit Tunnel” through which the factory sidings connected to the GWR yards.

 

 

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The tunnel can be seen from the other side here, in 1928. Huntley and Palmer’s at the front, with the outer reaches of King’s Meadow yard top left. (Source: Britain from Above). 


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And then it was Newbury. I started my model of Newbury's main station building during the pandemic, so it was quite an occasion to finally arrive here.

 

 

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We pulled into the old Didcot bay and I alighted from our set of clerestory coaches.

 

 

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Oh sorry, wrong century. Here we are in 2023. Same bay platform, though the footbridge disappeared recently to make way for the OLE.

 

 

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Newbury station was rebuilt to this condition during 1908-1910, with through lines in the center and loop lines along the platforms.

 

 

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The core of the layout is still there, as are the main station buildings and original canopies.

 

 

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I spent a pleasant couple of hours photographing the station for my model. 

 

 

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The station buildings have been through major refurbishment recently, and the approach is still being developed.

 

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The canopy is a standard design used elsewhere on the GWR.

 

 

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The supports can be found in the Ratio GWR canopy kit, seen kit-bashed here at Farthing.
 

 

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The buildings may look intact but have seen multiple detail changes over the years. This, for example, is the front of the old tea rooms, next to the refreshment rooms. The window on the right has been blanked out, the other windows are modern, and until very recently there was no door here.

 

 

 

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I took many nerdy photos. Let me know if anyone wants the rest. My build has benefited greatly from photos shared by others, thanks again gents!

 

 

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I walked up the embankment. These are the Lambourne and Winchester bays (left and right) in their heyday. (Source: LVR website).

 

 

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The view today. Both bays gone. At least the biodiversity benefits!

 

 

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The old GWR spear railings still linger. Note nonconformist pattern top right. A replacement? Model that!

 

 

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I said goodbye with a coffee and cake from the café, still housed in the old 1910 refreshment rooms. One hundred and thirteen years of munching and slurping, right here.

 

 

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I then met up with mum. She turned 90 this year and I invited her on a trip to Cornwall. After visiting old friends Up North she joined me on the GWR to Penzance.

 

 

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Along the way we enjoyed the breathtaking views and glorious blue skies, enhanced by the spotlessly clean carriage windows.
 

 

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Then reached the fabled Penzance, bang on time.

 

 

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The next three days were spent exploring the delights of Cornwall, staying in some wonderful B&Bs.  Everyone knows how Land's End looks, so here's a shot of the fish & chips at Sullivan's, just across from Penzance station.

 

 

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Luckily mum enjoys a scenic train ride, so St Erth-St Ives was a must.

 

 

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The semaphores at St Erth were a complete surprise to me. I had no idea that they were still operational.

 

 

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Great stuff .

 

 

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The box at St Erth, built 1899.

 

 

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We also visited the Helston Railway. 

 

 

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I was intrigued by the forest environment at Prospidnick where the line starts, a lovely atmosphere. This is, I think, BR Mk1 suburban brake No. E43147.
 

 

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Hauling power was 0-6-0 No. 2000. 

 

 

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Class 127 coach No. 51616 at Truthall Halt. The line ends here, but extension to Helston is planned. As always, I’m full of admiration for the preservation movement.
 

 

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Changing the lamps for the return trip. I’ll end the tale here too. It was a great journey, though time was short. Isn't it always.

 

 

Edited by Mikkel

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15 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

 

Thanks Matt. I like trying to find old railway spots and seeing how they look today - even if it can be depressing!

 

Here is another way of doing that, which I recently came across on Youtube:

 

 

Thank you Mikkel, that is really very interesting and a very clever way to illustrate what is now and once was. I see there a re a number of other videos made, looks like I might be getting square eyes!

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I'm an Earley bird now but yes, used to live in the Lynmouth Road, backing onto what was still at the time the SSE site - formerly the power station.

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On 09/08/2023 at 00:28, LBRJ said:

Sullivans Diner takes me back...

Used to just about have time to get a sausage butty before departing on the Up Portsmouth!

 

It's a great little place, and seemed to be doing well. I missed the sausage butty, must remember that if I go again!

 

We also went to Admiral Benbow's. I wasn't sure if it is mostly a tourist place these days or also used by locals, but I enjoyed it nonetheless. For Scandinavians, the concept of dogs in pubs is exotic and wonderful.

 

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22 hours ago, gwr517 said:

Oh to be able to do that fantastic trip. Thank you Mikkel for sharing and Ihope your mum enjoyed it also.

It brought back memories of my own trip to Penzance in 2017. Sadly it was by bus!!!

A well constucted post also.

Douglas.

 

 

Thank you Douglas, it was all quite an experience. I hope you enjoyed your trip to Penzance too. I would have liked more time to explore the station environs, but we were on a tight schedule.

 

There are some interesting photos of the station at different times here: 

http://www.cornwallrailwaysociety.org.uk/penzance-area-to-marazion.html

 

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On 08/08/2023 at 16:02, Neal Ball said:

Thanks for sharing your journey. I wonder if we could do Spain to Penzance and whether it would be as interesting.... 😎

 

I'm currently mulling over Alicante to Shrewsbury this year, although the planning and logistics fills me with dread!

 

Mike.

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20 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

I'm currently mulling over Alicante to Shrewsbury this year, although the planning and logistics fills me with dread!

 

Mike.


I managed to do Alicante to St Pancras with an overnight in Barcelona and then a separate journey PDN to PZ.

 

Very expensive @350€ just to get to the UK! 

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That sounds a most interesting trip, right the way through. Hope your mum stood up to the rigours of West Cornwall.  As to the avoiding line at Reading, the Southern inherited a station from the SER, which from all accounts degenerated into a right dive, before BR brought an extension up into the GWR station, and closed the old place. In living memory it had another platform stitched on, so with the station rebuild it’s now platforms 4,5, and 6, at the south eastern corner.

The train services using it are off the ex LSWR to London Waterloo, South Western Trains third rail, and former ex SER services  through Guildford and beyond in the Redhill direction, now to Gatwick airport, and these were gifted to the Western to run with d.m.u’s. Consequently, the SWR e.m.u’s are stabled from the London end, but the GW d.m.u s have to nest at the new depot, out west of the station on the north side. The goods fly under from the GWR relief lines on the north side to the SR line had been lifted with rundown of goods trains, but with the station rebuild it was reinstated, as good for getting the empty dmus from the depot to the southern platforms without having to snarl up all the GWR routes.

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On 10/08/2023 at 16:10, Barry Ten said:

Wonderful account of your trip, Mikkel - much appreciated.

 

Thanks Al. When the ferry connections from England to Denmark closed down some years ago, flying seemed the only practical option to cross the North Sea, so it was good to see that going via the Chunnel is a realistic alternative.

 

On 11/08/2023 at 19:28, Northroader said:

That sounds a most interesting trip, right the way through. Hope your mum stood up to the rigours of West Cornwall.  As to the avoiding line at Reading, the Southern inherited a station from the SER, which from all accounts degenerated into a right dive, before BR brought an extension up into the GWR station, and closed the old place. In living memory it had another platform stitched on, so with the station rebuild it’s now platforms 4,5, and 6, at the south eastern corner.

The train services using it are off the ex LSWR to London Waterloo, South Western Trains third rail, and former ex SER services  through Guildford and beyond in the Redhill direction, now to Gatwick airport, and these were gifted to the Western to run with d.m.u’s. Consequently, the SWR e.m.u’s are stabled from the London end, but the GW d.m.u s have to nest at the new depot, out west of the station on the north side. The goods fly under from the GWR relief lines on the north side to the SR line had been lifted with rundown of goods trains, but with the station rebuild it was reinstated, as good for getting the empty dmus from the depot to the southern platforms without having to snarl up all the GWR routes.

 

Thanks for those insights Northroader, I wasn't sure what the recent development entailed.

 

I have a side interest in the LB&SCR, so have always been a bit annoyed that it was the SECR who made it to Reading (with all due respect to the lovely SECR) . A GWR/LBSCR exchange siding layout would be interesting!

 

(hence my long-term idea for such a layout at Battersea:)

 

 

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4 hours ago, Mikkel said:

 

Thanks Al. When the ferry connections from England to Denmark closed down some years ago, flying seemed the only practical option to cross the North Sea, so it was good to see that going via the Chunnel is a realistic alternative.

 

 

Thanks for those insights Northroader, I wasn't sure what the recent development entailed.

 

I have a side interest in the LB&SCR, so have always been a bit annoyed that it was the SECR who made it to Reading (with all due respect to the lovely SECR) . A GWR/LBSCR exchange siding layout would be interesting!

 

(hence my long-term idea for such a layout at Battersea:)

 

 

 

Mikkel,

The old SER line down to Guilford is still quite slow and has diesel multiple units.  It is joined at Wokingham for the run into Reading by the old LSWR line.  I was tempted to model the area although my local station would be just two lines in a field in Pre-Grouping times, but the thought of salmon pink coaches  put me off.  (Not sure what number it would be on the 'to do' list anyway even if I was going to do it.)

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On 10/08/2023 at 08:58, Mikkel said:

For Scandinavians, the concept of dogs in pubs is exotic and wonderful.

For those of us who live 'Way Down West', it's very dog friendly place... :-) 
 

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Fabulous and entertaining (as always) read Mikkel.

 

Thanks for sharing 👍🏼

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In Small Talk at Wreyland (3 Vols., 1918-21), Cecil Torr recounts a dream in which he was frustrated to discover that the Penzance dining carriage did not run through to Brindisi.

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Thanks everyone for the comments  - and apologies for the late response, it's been a bit hectic here. 

 

The trip awoke an urge to do some architectural modelling beyond station facilities. I must restrain myself and wait until the main station building at Farthing is done, but in the meantime I am trying to get familiar with the different period styles. It seems simple when you read about it, but once confronted with real buildings I tend to get confused. Clearly I need to develop "the eye" for this sort of thing.

 

Below is a surviving warehouse just across from the former Vastern Rd Yard at Reading. As I later found out, the lettering says "Smallbone Ltd":

 

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Here it is in a crop from a 1948 photo on Britain from Above:

 

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Also at Reading, a row in a style that seems very widespread in that town, though I can't quite identify period and style:

 

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This nice row is on Newbury's Bartholomew Street, where it crosses the GWR line.

 

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Also on Newbury's Bartholomew Street, note sagging roof:

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A little further down the same street, the building on the right seems Victorian to me, but again I am not sure.

 

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40 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

a row in a style that seems very widespread in that town

...and all over late Victorian / turn of the century London as well.

 

42 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

little further down the same street, the building on the right seems Victorian to me, but again I am not sure.

...a bit earlier I think: the storey heights suggest it could be pretty old, possibly a timber frame which has had a brick facade added by way of an upgrade or repair. The ground outside appears to have been graded to respect an earlier road/pavement level.

 

A nice collection of buildings.

 

At less than £3 s/h, the Observer's Book of Architecture (I think now out of print) is an excellent investment. Amazon have several for sale: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Observers-Architecture-Forewordby-Written-Illustrated/dp/1854710397. Very good for a general sense of dating and style.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Mikkel said:

Also at Reading, a row in a style that seems very widespread in that town, though I can't quite identify period and style:

 

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Just round the corner is our first house, which being on a side-street is less grand - no attic rooms, bay window to ground floor only, and flat rather than arched porch lintels. As Kit says, late 19th / very early 20th century. Reading's terraced housing is very distinctive through its use of polychrome brickwork - making great use of a grey brick made locally, at Tilehurst. (Though from the place-name, I suppose bricks came second.) 

 

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[From various Estate Agents' websites. The last one is Lynmouth Road, where we lived.]

 

The same fancy brickwork can be seen in the town centre, if one raises one's gaze above the shop-fronts and the grey brick was used for Waterhouse's Town Hall:

 

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[Embedded link.]

 

Newbury didn't have the 19th century industrialisation of Reading so much of its architecture is older - as Kit says, likely medieval or 16th/17th century buildings behind 18th century facades. I imagine Farthing to be more like that - unless there's some Farthing biscuit factory we've yet to hear of?

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10 hours ago, kitpw said:

 

...and all over late Victorian / turn of the century London as well.

 

...a bit earlier I think: the storey heights suggest it could be pretty old, possibly a timber frame which has had a brick facade added by way of an upgrade or repair. The ground outside appears to have been graded to respect an earlier road/pavement level.

 

A nice collection of buildings.

 

At less than £3 s/h, the Observer's Book of Architecture (I think now out of print) is an excellent investment. Amazon have several for sale: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Observers-Architecture-Forewordby-Written-Illustrated/dp/1854710397. Very good for a general sense of dating and style.

 

Thank you Kit. Turns out that the book is available from a Danish secondhand dealer - I'm going to see if I can get hold of it!

 

9 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Just round the corner is our first house, which being on a side-street is less grand - no attic rooms, bay window to ground floor only, and flat rather than arched porch lintels. As Kit says, late 19th / very early 20th century. Reading's terraced housing is very distinctive through its use of polychrome brickwork - making great use of a grey brick made locally, at Tilehurst. (Though from the place-name, I suppose bricks came second.) 

 

image.png.599902a19c5e4fbdacb17c10453f857c.png

image.png.9c2a447985f43ce7753d7ce6e9eeac9f.png

image.png.0205cae5136ba50a476ef4114b419c53.png

 

[From various Estate Agents' websites. The last one is Lynmouth Road, where we lived.]

 

The same fancy brickwork can be seen in the town centre, if one raises one's gaze above the shop-fronts and the grey brick was used for Waterhouse's Town Hall:

 

magnificent-reading-town-hall-reading-19

 

[Embedded link.]

 

Newbury didn't have the 19th century industrialisation of Reading so much of its architecture is older - as Kit says, likely medieval or 16th/17th century buildings behind 18th century facades. I imagine Farthing to be more like that - unless there's some Farthing biscuit factory we've yet to hear of?

 

Thanks Stephen, I thought you might recognise it! Polychrome brickwork, that's a new term for me but very clear in the photos you show.

 

The dating is also helpful from both of you, thank you. My efforts have been directed at trying to distinguish the main architectural styles as presented e.g. here: 

 

https://www.mayfairoffice.co.uk/members-home/British-Architectural-Styles

 

... although a main point coming out is that the main styles all tended to include great variation, including revival of former styles and adoption of local ones. But that is convoluted nature of history, I suppose.

 

 

 

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12 hours ago, Mikkel said:

 

Thanks Stephen, I thought you might recognise it! Polychrome brickwork, that's a new term for me but very clear in the photos you show.

 

The usual term when applied to brickwork is polychromatic. The LBSCR had a wonderful example at Christ’s Hospital Station, but I haven’t been able to find a colour photo on line.

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I've just looked through some of the photos I'd taken of Brighton station buildings in the eighties, and I'd forgotten how popular polychromatic brickwork was through the years on the line.  Too many to list, but Leatherhead and Eastbourne are worth checking.  Unfortunately Christ's Hospital station was demolished before I visited it, but even the surviving goods shed had some interesting details, but the murky weather made my shots not worth posting, but a couple of views of Tunbridge Wells West just after closure give a taste of the wide palette of brick and stonework types and colours the LBSCR architects had at their disposal. 

tunbridgewellswest1lighter.jpg.dee239fbee7a3586da775553f417cf7a.jpgtunbridgewellswest2.jpg.819c1dc1eec02409a46132f80ed5f054.jpg

The details are very similar to Christ's Hospital, and there is a lovely colour view of that onein Michael Welch's Sussex Steam book from Capital Transport.

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23 hours ago, Nick Holliday said:

The usual term when applied to brickwork is polychromatic. 

 

Curious. In the various readily-accessible online articles I've looked at [W...] the term used is polychrome brickwork or polychromy; certainly in relation to Ruskin's advocacy and Butterfield's use of it. For a non-W instance, see:

https://www.keble.ox.ac.uk/about/architecture-gardens/.

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6 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Curious. In the various readily-accessible online articles I've looked at [W...] the term used is polychrome brickwork or polychromy; certainly in relation to Ruskin's advocacy and Butterfield's use of it. For a non-W instance, see:

https://www.keble.ox.ac.uk/about/architecture-gardens/.

Sorry if I came over rather too strongly. The first time I was aware of the style, over fifty years ago, it was described as polychromatic, and the term obviously got lodged in my brain and, since then, I must have been using autocorrect whenever I saw the word polychrome. I did check online before posting, and, although the two words are synonymous, it was only in the polychromatic meanings that Oxford actually quoted “polychromatic brickwork “.

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5 minutes ago, Nick Holliday said:

Sorry if I came over rather too strongly. The first time I was aware of the style, over fifty years ago, it was described as polychromatic, and the term obviously got lodged in my brain and, since then, I must have been using autocorrect whenever I saw the word polychrome. I did check online before posting, and, although the two words are synonymous, it was only in the polychromatic meanings that Oxford actually quoted “polychromatic brickwork “.

 

Being married to the dictionary I'm alert to these things!

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Having derailed this thread, I thought this suburban house near me showed a triumph of money over good taste(?) might be of interest.  Lots of polychrome bricks combined with plenty of flint and other materials.  I have no idea of its history, as otherwise it is a fairly unremarkable building.

vernonroad.jpg.deac43200a2fa22e9c001f0700523514.jpg

In my searching I also came across a PhD dissertation by Moses Jenkins of the University of Dundee on the history of brickwork in Scotland from 1700 - 1900 which goes into great detail on many aspects of brickwork, which makes interesting reading, if you have the time.

https://discovery.dundee.ac.uk/ws/portalfiles/portal/10228188/Jenkins_M_201

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