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Slater's GWR dia E37 Tri-compo clerestory coach


Mikkel

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My GWR E37 tri-compo is ready for painting, built from the Slater’s kit. Earlier I did a blow-by-blow account of the C19 build from the same range, so this post will focus on new experiences and things that were different.
 
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There was more flash around the windows than in the C19 kit, especially at the bottom. The window edges are quite thin and hard to distinguish from the flash, and therefore easily damaged when the flash is removed. Inspecting the sides from behind helped.
 
 
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This time I remembered to drill out the holes for the door furniture before assembling the sides.


 

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A drawing of the interior layout can be found on the excellent GWR Coaches website. The E37s had two lavatories at the center, accessed from the neighbouring First Class compartments. The kit does not provide for this, so I rebuilt the arrangements to indicate it. No arm rests though, or loos in the lavs!

 


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I fitted the seats with a slight gap each side. I find it easier to fit the glazing that way.
 

 

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The bogies in these kits are designed for inside bearings, but I prefer ordinary pinpoint bearings. So as in the C19 build, I applied a bit of freestyling (thanks again @Darwinian for the idea).
 
 

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I used Wizard waisted bearings (ref no. 40002), with the tip filed down to accommodate the axle boxes as can be seen on the r/h bearing here. The axles boxes themselves also had to be opened up inside to fit over the bearings, done with a round file as shown.

 

 

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The brake shoes were a very tight fit against the wheels and tended to jam. I know others have had the same problem. I found that it helps to bend the folded brass tabs that hold the brakes backwards, then gently bend the brake shoe itself forwards to align with the wheel.

 

 

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The E37 kit has Dean 6’4 Bogies (left) while the C10 kit has 8’6 bogies (right). Selecting coaches with different bogies is a nice touch by Slaters.

 

 

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The two types of Dean bogie in direct comparison. On top is the Dean 8´6 wheelbase bogie, which actually has a shorter overall frame and springs than the 6’4 wheelbase bogie below it. Queen posts also positioned differently.

 

 

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The queen posts have to be cut to allow the bogie to swivel.

 

 

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Trial fit of the bogies.

 

 

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I then fitted the underframe details. A slight problem here: If fitted as per the instructions, the vacuum cylinders collide with one of the bogies. So I moved the cylinders a little to one side.
 
 

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Next, the footboards.  There was a factory error with one of the long footboards and one of the solebars, both oddly divided at one end.

 

 

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So I built up new end parts from styrene…

 

 

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…which wasn’t too noticeable when fitted.

 

 

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The lower footboards were then fitted to the bogies. I used my own spacers (in the box) to adjust the ride height of the bogies. I find the etched ones that come with the kit a bit fickle.

 

 

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Once I’d found a good ride height for the bogies  (i.e. the minimum required to let them swing freely), the center footboard sat too high.

 

 

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The brackets for the offending footboard only have one fixed position - so I resorted to a crude fix, using pliers to first straighten and then gently re-bend the brackets at a lower position, as seen here.

 

 

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The kit provides for sprung buffers, but I went for fixed ones.  A great drama ensued. One buffer ram got stuck in the housing too far out, locked solid by Loctite. I raged at the injustice, the Universe darkened, planets imploded. Eventually I managed to remove the buffer beam, carve out the buffer housing, cut off the buffer ram, shorten it, and butt-solder it back on the guide. Given my soldering skills, that was a miracle. The rest of that day I was Alexander the Great, conqueror of worlds. Modelling involves epic battles every day, who needs TV 🙂


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The gas lamptops and piping were fitted using handrail wire from 51L. The lamp tops for the toilets add a bit of character. I did the piping for these with microstrip (later filed neat).

 

 

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It strikes me that toilet lamp tops are poorly covered in the literature. Can’t think why. They are rarely seen in photos, but I assume that’s what we see in this Paddington shot, on the second coach in platform 5?

 

 

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As built the coach weighed in at 87 grams. That felt a bit light. I believe Iain Rice said 25 grams per axle. I like my stock a bit heavy so went for 110 grams total.

 

 

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The extra weight was added using Liquid Gravity from Deluxe Models, stuck down with thinned Card Glue from the same outfit. I’ve been monitoring that combo on other stock for 10+ years, so far all is well.

 

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So that’s where I’m at. Didn’t have a coin to indicate size, so grabbed an Oryx. Very disorienting, scale is an interesting thing.

 

 

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Door handles, vacuum pipes, couplings etc will be fitted after painting.

 

 

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I’m pondering the livery. The plan was to go for the full pre-1908 chocolate & cream as per my normal modelling period and illustrated on the box. But the 1908-12 all-brown is growing on me. Decisions, decisions.

 

Edited by Mikkel

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Fantastic build, top job! As for the livery, my vote would be for the full pre-1908 choc/cream. But both livery options are nice and it'll look marvellous whichever you go with 👍

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Mikkel,

An excellent build and commentary as usual.  You made it to a tri-composite before me!  All over brown would be easy but boring.  I know, I can send you all mine that need painting and you can do them all together, like a production line. 🙂

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Mikkel

Posted (edited)

 

13 minutes ago, Fair Oak Junction said:

Fantastic build, top job! As for the livery, my vote would be for the full pre-1908 choc/cream. But both livery options are nice and it'll look marvellous whichever you go with 👍

 

Thanks Fair Oak. I find myself moving the goal posts for my modelling period at the moment, which of course immediately leads to too many options and choices! 🙂

 

Edited by Mikkel
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9 minutes ago, ChrisN said:

Mikkel,

An excellent build and commentary as usual.  You made it to a tri-composite before me!  All over brown would be easy but boring.  I know, I can send you all mine that need painting and you can do them all together, like a production line. 🙂

 

Thank you Chris. You wouldn't want to do that, it would take decades! 😄

 

I'm not sure if I find the all brown easier. You need the lining to look really good there, while with the choc and cream it's a bit less obvious.

 

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17 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

Thanks Fair Oak. I find myself moving the goal posts for my modelling period at the moment, which of course immediately leads to too many options and choices! 🙂

 

I know that feeling well. Some of my planned 009 layouts have changed so many times I barely recognise them 😄

You've chosen an interesting period, not just for the GWR but for the railways as a whole, and with it obviously comes lots of changes in liveries/rolling stock designs/loco details/etc.

It's easy to understand why your mind would be wandering towards a slightly later period and new livery styles. It's nice sometimes to have new variations to think about.

Edited by Fair Oak Junction
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Yes, it's that constant battle to stay on track while also keeping it new and fresh. There have always been running sessions for different periods at Farthing, but it's getting harder to avoid mission creep.

 

Hypothesis: When more discipline is required elsewhere in life, there is greater temptation to loosen the reins on the hobby front.

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Lovely looking carriage, I wonder if Slaters are any closer to releasing the GWR range again. 

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I hope Slaters reintroduce the GWR range sooner rather than later!! They are a great addition to the GW modellers stable.

Well done Mikkel. I would like to see it in the pre 1908 livery.

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Mikkel

Posted (edited)

Thanks all.

 

I had understood that the Slaters re-release of these kits wasn't far off, and with some mods being made to the bogies for easier construction - but who knows.

 

As for the livery of the E37 and its brethren, there is of course also the option of the 1908-22 lake livery, to go with the new Dapol 43xx No. 4321 in 1913 guise 🙂

 

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Although I suppose an obvious match for that would be some standard Toplights, when Dapol get around to doing those.

 

I still have to get used to RTR GWR pre-grouping stock being readily available, and how to approach it. It's more satisfying to modify/build your own, I find, but it does take time and I struggle with loco mechanisms.

 

Edited by Mikkel
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Excellent modelling as always and I really like your open commentary to your builds, filled with both fun and laughter as well as some serious top tips.

I am really tempted to try and get hold of some of these Slaters kits!!!! Oh Mikkel what have you started?!?!?!?!?!?

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Mikkel

Posted (edited)

Thanks Matt! It would be great to see you build these, they have a few quirks but are quite satisfying kits. They sometimes  pop up on ebay, though usually at bizarre prices I'm afraid. Maybe Slater's can provide some info on when they are due back out.

 

Edited by Mikkel
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Mikkel,

 

Do one side in one livery and the other in the other livery, on the grounds that you only see one side at a time. I model the mid 20's, most of my coaching stock has the Lake livery on one side and post '22 livery on the other, I just need the time to finish them.

 

PS. The 2021s suffered a set back when I dropped the saddle tank yesterday.

 

 

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Nicely done.  Some people have found a problem with lead reacting to pva glues, although perhaps Liquid Gravity is not lead?  Plasticene is a good alternative to glue, if there is a problem.

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8 hours ago, Siberian Snooper said:

Mikkel,

 

Do one side in one livery and the other in the other livery, on the grounds that you only see one side at a time. I model the mid 20's, most of my coaching stock has the Lake livery on one side and post '22 livery on the other, I just need the time to finish them.

 

PS. The 2021s suffered a set back when I dropped the saddle tank yesterday.

 

Thanks Phil, the idea of two different liveries on one coach would certainly solve some dilemmas. But for my part I am a little reluctant about it. Something to do with the intregity of the coach - a silly romantic idea probably!

 

Sorry to hear about the 2021 taking a fall, that's bad news. I hope you can salvage it. Fingers crossed.

 

 

3 hours ago, Camperdown said:

Nicely done.  Some people have found a problem with lead reacting to pva glues, although perhaps Liquid Gravity is not lead?  Plasticene is a good alternative to glue, if there is a problem.

 

Thanks Camperdown. The good thing about the Liquid Gravity is that it's not lead, so the possible interacting with PVAs isn't a problem. Not that I have yet had the courage to try it in an enclosed space! Thanks for the tip about Plasticene, will keep that in mind.

 

 

 

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Nicely done, as always.

 

I'm in the process of turning a Tri-ang 2nd Class coach into a proper 7-compartment composite (no lavatory) by splicing in part of another 2nd. It's not accurate, diagram-wise, but it will do when finished.

 

Sometimes I'm tempted to do more clerestories in brown, but as you say, without the lining they're a bit bland. So I fight the temptation... except I'm doing a cut-and-shut C19 in brown to go with my crimson lake clerestories (having no crimson lake paint left).

 

I think you'll be happier with the chocolate & cream livery on the grounds that: a) it looks good, even unlined. And b) the lower centre footboards were starting to be removed during the brown period.

 

Dana

 

 

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Thank you Dana. Good point about the lower footboards, I hadn't thought about that.

 

Your C19 in brown with the lake coaches sounds good, this is exactly the kind of mixed picture that I would also like to have a go at. It sounds almost prototypical that you have run out of paint 🙂

 

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