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JimFin

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Everything posted by JimFin

  1. Its very satisfying when a number of things all come together and work! 3D prints, including the bogies, digital Schoma, MicroTrains couplings and Dapol inset magnet contribute to the first delivery into the Weyland siding.
  2. Build volume is fairly meagre - 102.4 x 57.6 x 165 mm ( 4" X 2.25" X 6.5" )
  3. What you have done looks good to me, good reference source for this detail is via streetview - https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@46.6520899,9.7227126,2a,75y,192.21h,98.85t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1smgym55qrFcfdDatmlMVe4g!2e0!7i13312!8i6656?hl=en-GB you can see the tensioner set back as you have leading to mast at the point centre and diverging lines OHP from there.
  4. Been a while since my last post - and it's been slow progress. The complexity of setting up the track and wiring has been a bit of a challenge but it's going well and running smoothly. The Peco scissors crossing needed a lot of modification to work with the Cobalt IP point motors but it's remarkable smooth. The geometry of the track plan means there is a reverse loop which had had to be incorporated in the DCC wiring. The AR1 polarity reverse module was not a great success, being relay operated it was simply not quick enough for the Kato locos but funnily enough - fine with the Scoma fitted with a Zimo decoder. The module has been replaced with a Lenz LR200 solid state switch. To ensure a full train can be accommodated within the reversing section, this has had to be extended part of the way into the spiral which meant a little bit of re-work. All good now. Very glad I hinged the top board!
  5. No - I think it was misunderstanding! Attached are the Kato Ge, my 3d print tank wagon and Kato EW1 - so yes the tank does sit high. It may be a little taller than prototype but the issue with the Nm goods wagons is the bogie is virtually the same width as the chassis and cannot be recessed in as with a coach.
  6. Front cover of next months Continental Modeller has a familiar look to it!
  7. Looks pretty similar height relative to the loco cab windows / roof line?
  8. There is a trick to lift a corner with a Stanley type razor scraper or similar ( https://www.uktoolcentre.co.uk/products/stanley-tools-razor-edge-scraper-with-5-blades.html?sku=946048&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4eaJBhDMARIsANhrQADe_bEpoqzC4UMmz2ce1tiSAopg--4auGu-7cUCvmTTnd8DDtK03ygaAhhhEALw_wcB ) and then use the large scraper, A soon as the corner is lifted, it becomes very easy to slide the large scraper under and lift it off.
  9. There is a counter view, which I confess I now subscribe to, that adding lubricant to the FEP is not a great idea. As far as I am aware, none of the printer, FEP or resin manufacturers recommend it as it is adding a further chemical to the mix. I did try it at one point but it was, in my opinion, completely pointless. It's better to work at dialling in the best settings for your printer / resin / environment combination. You are trying to print the test cube which on a good day is notoriously difficult and really does not give an indication if you have an issue. I suggest you print the R_E_F_R file on the USB and see how that performs. It will give you a good idea of the optimum settings for your combination of printer and resin. The R_E_F_R results are explained in the manual and you need to select the best result for the type of models you are intending to print. With those settings, I would ignore the cube and get on and print something you want instead. It's a steep learning curve to get the results you want but worthwhile when you hit the sweet spot and understand the parameters well.
  10. I think your orientation is a significant part of the problem The job is splitting as the suction force is greater than the adhesion due to the cross sectional area being printed at each layer. Solutions would generally be to angle it at 45 degrees to reduce the cross section of each layer, reduce the lift speed possibly and a longer light off time. Difficult to be definitive without knowing your settings.
  11. How about a couple of these? https://www.digitalprinting.co.uk/products/1500mm-wide/86/ about £250 but ae complete and easily portable?
  12. For small engineering components like that, it would be worth getting a small sample roll of ePLA which has engineering strength similar to ABS once it has been annealed after printing. https://www.filamentive.com/product-category/epla/
  13. JimFin

    Bemo Ge 4/4

    Don't worry about that, they are not different wheel sets, same wheels and axles just different spacing.
  14. That's the Nm version - its big brother has the sound decoder in HOm.
  15. It has taken a lot more effort than I expected to add a decoder and resolve the internal packaging. Had to change plans with the decoder and ended up with a Zimo 616N fitted in the bonnet along with far too many wires and a resistor. It nearly went in the bin at one point - but proved another issue, you can replace the whole back panel if you have too...... www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/51393895064/in/album-72157718407645578/
  16. Been trying to get on for a couple of days but no success. Have messaged them via Facebook to ask if there is a problem with their website.
  17. Keith - yes they are Peco Set Track and work fine with the 4/4's. The geometry having an acute angle means the insulated section is relatively short. Elsewhere I am using the Peco Unifrog but still switching the frog from the Cobalt point motor. That may be an alternative for you to consider as it has the features of both insul frog and electro frog.
  18. To add to your knowledge on the printing aspect - for details as you describe, a resin printer would be best as others have said. Some points to follow through on that - resin and the the fumes from it are toxic and have to be handled with some degree of care, it really needs to be kept separate from your domestic accommodation. It is also fairly sensitive to temperature changes so having adequate insulation and ventilation are essential. You need to take time to learn the process to tune your printer to perform well with the resin of your choice, every printer/resin combination requires a unique set up, even different colours of the same brand of resin can behave differently. There is a bit of a dark art combined with science in it to establish the optimum exposure time. After creating your model, as well as mastering the CAD you will need to master the slicing software as the process of adding supports to the model during the printing process can be as complex as the initial CAD. Never yet found an automated support generation tool that is completely reliable so manually setting up has been my solution. Once printed, you need to wash and cure the model and a number of wash and cure machines are available to compliment your printer. You also need a supply of washing fluid - I use 99% alcohol - and that too needs to be handled with care. You need a process to then recover the reusable alcohol from the resin/alcohol mix. Care needs to be taken with the disposal of the associated detritus that will have uncured resin on it, disposable gloves, paper towels, scrap build supports, used filters, empty resin bottles, and spoil from the washing process - it is all toxic to a degree. Don't get me wrong - it's all doable and the results can be fantastic - but you need to go into this with your eyes wide open.
  19. The optimum angle is the ArcTan calculated using the layer height and pixel width. 45 degrees for a mono X and 46.77 on the photon. Full explanation here. 22.5 degrees may help with improving the circular outcome, why not slice a couple of small sections of the model or simply create a short section of tube mimicking the boiler and do a couple of test prints at different angles.
  20. I would agree with printing at 45 degree to the build plate rather than flat. This would significantly reduce the size of each layer and reduce the suction which will contribute to stretch.
  21. "Undergound all completed, time to move to the scenic level.
  22. The RhB UNESCO submission document includes the Hennings drawing and a table. Think it may be the same as the details PaulRhB provided but interesting to see in the context, also has Solis viaduct details. 2a4_en.pdf The whole submission package can be accessed here - https://www.rhb.ch/en/unesco-world-heritage/candidature-dossier
  23. After a week away helping with a house move, been able to pick up with some track laying. and basic testing as I go along. The spiral is working fine but would benefit from a touch of super elevation as the Si wagons are not comfortable but everything else is good. Got one set of the ladder of points for the storage yard and front siding in place. Trying these neat baseboard joiner sections which are just a fancy version of the traditional paxolin sleepers. Main thing I have been finding out is this Kato stuff is very sensitive to the transition from flat to gradient, compounded by a join from Kato track to Peco code 55. Shaped balsa wood wedge has been the best solution. Just nice to have a train running!
  24. I have got to this point with mine. Odd thing with the colour, I found by accident the £4.99 Aldi Deco silver grey spray was spot on.
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