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Barclay

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    Essex, UK

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  1. Looks awesome, and just shows how inefficient worm gears must be. Is there room to fit another one on the front axle? That would do the trick !
  2. Great looking loco. Most of my recent motors have been bought cheaply from China via ebay. You do take pot luck to some extent but they are ludicrously cheap! The Mitsumi M15N I have used and it's approximately 12mm across and 20mm long. The Minebea 15mm square can is very good (Google Minebea 6 pole rotor). Mabuchi are a trusted make too but tend to be bigger. If you are averse to ebay the Mitsumi can be bought from UK traders such as Cambridge Custom Transfers, for about £7, which is still good value in my book.
  3. I reckon they would - I have a friend who has used US chassis to build EM gauge loco's. The wheelbase of this Athearn SW7 is about 9mm longer though.
  4. Saltport Estates no.5 (Hawthorn Leslie 3676/1927) drifts past the engine shed on its way back to the Industrial Estate. This loco. has been shunting over the weekend and has a strange aversion to the Pentroller, which all of my other loco's love. It twitches and hesitates, whereas on the Gaugemaster HH feedback it is OK, and on my ancient AGW 'electronic Controller', which uses PWM at low speed and pure DC further up the speed range it is very good indeed. The motor is one of the square 6 pole Minebea type that seem to be quite widely used now. Unfortunately single ended so no possibility of a
  5. The Model Master paints look right, colour-wise to me. The blue sprayed on very nicely. As there is such a small amount of yellow the plan was to mask off the ends and brush paint it on , the paint being matt shouldn't give brush marks I thought (On my British engines I always brush paint the black parts after spraying body colour, and it works just fine). However the yellow paint proved quite difficult to work with - sticky and gloopy with no covering power at all. I realised I would have to spray it and masked up the loco. completely using Tamiya tape on the important bits. Then the ends had
  6. So that's why I had to squeeze mine in a vice to make it the correct width ! And replace the underframe, and the buffers, and the doors, and the roof.....
  7. Hi just 2 bodies - the colours show how they are arranged. The front one is reversed so the 2 roof hatches are together. Front steps and buffer beams from Plastikard and a 60 thou square section strip from Evergreen to deepen the running plate. It would look better with 14mm wheels but I wanted to use the Athearn side frames and couldn't be bothered to hack them about. The buffer beams have overlays from riveted 10 thou brass. Plus of course, both horns and a light !
  8. Hi you might want to repeat this question in the Standard Gauge Industrial section where there would be more interest and also great knowledge of things arcane and industrial... Good effort by the way !
  9. It's been a strange year or so hasn't it? It must have affected me because my loco. building has gone severely astray - up until 2020 I had only ever built one freelance loco. - a teenage modification of the Hornby Caley Pug. Now, I have three more: It all started when I was reading about Tri-ang dock shunters in the 'vintage' section - I remembered that I nearly had one in the early 70's when I was about 5. We got home from the shop and it didn't work. Neither did the second one so I ended up with the Triang-Hornby '08' shunter instead. As a result of this I recently decided I rea
  10. So true ! - sadly no more as the bus park is now under the construction site for an inappropriately large cheap hotel that I can't imagine anyone will want to stay at. As to 'road station' ? It's not just buses that use roads, whereas I believe only trains use railways which is why until recently no-one used the hideous term 'Train Station'.
  11. After a final clean up the loco. has received a light coat of Halfords grey primer. Always sad to cover up brass but it has to be done ! This weekend I hope to test the Model Master colours that Microscale suggest as likely substitutes for the real Santa Fe colours. I'm hoping that since it's Microscale they will at least be a reasonable match for their decals. I now learn that Mech Models have true Santa Fe colours from 2 different manufacturers, though they are acrylic and I have always worked in enamels so we will see how it goes.
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