Jump to content

Barclay

Members
  • Posts

    906
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

Profile Information

  • Location
    Essex, UK

Recent Profile Visitors

1,087 profile views

Barclay's Achievements

2.7k

Reputation

  1. Hi Bob - I described it in a thread on the industrial section last year, so I have posted a link below which contains all the gory details. The ultimate kit basher of this casting was apparently pre-war modeller extraordinaire, the Rev. Edward Beal, who made all sorts of loco's. out of them. Regards
  2. I would tend to agree with the comment regarding the controller - if it's PWM or feedback it could be causing the noise. A quick way to test this, is with the controller disconnected, put the terminals of a 9 volt battery across the rails and if it then runs quietly you will know that it prefers pure DC !
  3. Hi the wartime pooling meant that over time wagons would stray further and further from their intended routes. As their liveries slowly disappeared under dirt and unpainted replacement planks many had their previous owner's name painted on in small lettering at the lower left side. However, they were never returned to their owners, just running on and looking rougher and dirtier as the years went by. They did not go to the NCB but to British Railways, receiving P prefix numbers. Many were never repainted but some did receive pale grey unfitted livery. Getting rarer by the early 60's. The NCB did end up owning many but these would be internal use only at collieries and such like.
  4. I've never had a problem with the 1224, a lovely motor. I did have a 1024 seize up solid, which I finally identified as rust on the shaft, but it didn't cause these symptoms. This was a few years ago and you yourself gave me the confidence to have it apart and check/adjust the end float, so I assume this isn't the cause? Also assuming the problem isn't caused by a stiff chassis, it sounds a bit like it might be a broken wire to one of the poles - poor starting, lack of control at low speed, somewhat rough running? Whether this would cause heating I don't know but it might be worth checking.
  5. If you have a really steady hand there's the chrome trim down the side too!
  6. In that case - they made a 'kit' for the L&Y rapid shunting tank, which has a wheelbase of 6' + 6'. The shape is about right too.
  7. I have only built one Centre Models kit and it wasn't that one but it had a cast white metal chassis block.
  8. ebay - they probably haven't been made since the fifties but they crop up from time to time.
  9. Hi I usually use brass wire for pickups and find it has enough natural spring to do the job. I think yours may be a little thick though it's hard to tell. I would normally use 0.33mm or 0.45mm depending on how long the pickups need to be and if soldered in place on the copperclad sufficient spring can be induced in them. Others swear by phosphor bronze which may well be better but I haven't used it. Crude but illustrative example !
  10. Before you go any further I'm a little worried that the top of the firebox is too high compared to the boiler. Photo's show them almost at the same level, with no real 'step' between the two.
  11. Sounds to me like you are doing it all as it should be done. I have a Maplins 60w soldering station - they are still around on-line so you can get bits etc. My favourite bit looks a little like a slightly chunky electrical screwdriver at the end, which could be the same as yours. You don't mention solder but it's handy to have 2 temps. available - I use 188 and 145 which helps if you want to add something without everything you have already done falling to bits. I keep the iron at 400 degrees most of the time - if I use the lower settings it doesn't work nearly as well for some reason.
  12. High Level are our friend in this scenario, with their gearbox planner you can print off profiles of the different gearboxes and over lay them onto a drawing to be sure everything will fit. I haven't yet found a loco. that a High Level gearbox won't fit, even though obscuring daylight under the boiler is out of the question. One of the most difficult have to be tiny saddle tanks where the gears have to go in the firebox - a little trim and it just fits! Pre-Grouping 0-6-0's can be tricky too with all that lovely daylight under the boiler, and narrow fireboxes. Here a HL gearbox and one of their new motors just fit into this J17:
  13. They did ! Interestingly the K's 1361 chassis I have is indeed 23.5mm + 23.5mm. The frames are featureless rectangles though. These frames look a bit too good to be K's...
  14. That's a very tidy piece of work - I wish I could make mine look like that. Interested to see progress.
×
×
  • Create New...