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Allegheny1600

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Everything posted by Allegheny1600

  1. Fleischmann were going to introduce a Bullied Pacific in H0 scale, they had measured one up and I understand, were making everything ready to produce it into their then British range. This was the reason why they actually did do the matching coaches along with the D800 Warship (chosen by Mr Fleischmann himself due to its similarity to the V200), they were also planning a range of wagons too but I forget which. All these models were planned to be complimentary to the then existing Lima range albeit that was cheaper and lower quality however the importer of Lima had them change to 00 to increase sales and that was that. Without a complimentary range, Fleischmann took around thirty years or more to sell off their remaining stock and only right at the very end did they discount it all. More or less as related to me by Mr Hills, the UK importer.
  2. I was always under the impression (I don’t know where from) that the broad gauge allowed greater running speeds, it was only much later that the Stephenson gauge allowed similar speeds. Had the 7’ gauge prevailed in the UK, would it have remained confined to the western parts of the nation or would the other companies have converted? (Probably not due to costs) What about new railways being built? Possibly - if they had at least one BG connection. One thing would have been very interesting, how would models have represented the broad gauge? Probably doable in the original model scales but once you go smaller than 7mm, then what!? Now to retire into my bunker! John
  3. I think that’s the principle problem - could be down to staff training, new staff or simply that staff are free to interpret rules anyhow they please. Certainly here in Greece, it’s simply not worth the risk. All the local courier companies here are free to hit incoming parcels with obscene charges and you need to know the rules inside out and speak fluently in order to fight them. Plus, the government here lets them get away with it all.
  4. Yep! Having followed advice from many, many modelling magazines, from being involved in four different clubs over the years and from building more than a couple of layouts myself, I still didn’t think that I knew it all when I started the topic in my signature. However, when I see others making much more elemental mistakes that could easily have been avoided by reading that topic or hundreds of other equally valid topics on here and elsewhere, then one has to shrug and say “they’ll learn, eventually” and leave them to it. In other words “you can take a horse to water. . .”
  5. Hi Chris, You’re layout is coming on nicely I think and I do like to see the overhead coming along, bravo. I too, pin the pantographs so they look raised but have no fear of snagging and causing loads of damage. Wrt the lovely Catalunya, I can identify an older Fleischmann “Prussian” P8 - it is quite old because the green is dreadful! I am quite sure that such colours on Fleischmann stock were phased out by the 1990s or so. Whether it’s close to anything that ever ran in Spain, I can’t say. The only German built locos I know for sure were the Spanish “V200”s, they were lovely. It’s been rather a long time since I visited Spain but I had some very pleasant times there and did a reasonable amount of train watching. Cheers, John E, occasional Prussian modeller.
  6. Nevertheless, stick to the topic, please. You have expressed your opinion, no need to keep expressing it. Thank you, John E. (moderator for this section of the forum).
  7. Hi Michael, That’s a most unfortunate story, I’m sorry for you. Seeing as ACME are probably made in China, what about components from other manufacturers, might they fit? Brawa, Piko, Athearn, Atlas - as far as I know most of the assembly’s used in these models are quite compatible. I only have one ACME model, a Br.120 too as it happens but it’s inaccessible at the moment so I can’t check, sorry. Cheers, John
  8. Do you have details of your friends quotes and final price, please? Thanks, John
  9. Errr, no! It may be available from your favourite UK retailer but by the time it has gone through the UK importer (who always add their cut plus duty and any additional costs they can) - such an item will be in the order of 25% more expensive than were you able to directly order from Europe. It’s a bit ridiculous isn’t it? Maerklin/Trix are apparently willing to ship to North Korea but not to the UK. Is the UK considered such a pariah state now? How many other companies in Europe are taking this approach?
  10. Hello Dr G-F, Everything is looking great, I’m glad you’re enjoying your self. If you don’t mind me saying it, that track looks excellent! Cheers, John
  11. I was a member for a while, good group, helpful and they used to put on, for me, the best show of its kind in the UK - I kind of agree that their communications need brushing up. However AFAIK, they are mostly quite elderly gents so will have been adversely affected by the pandemic and they likely feel that while everyone is in lockdown or isolating, there are rather more important things to devote themselves to. That’s looking at things with a brighter outlook, there is also the possibility that some members may have succumbed.
  12. Many thanks indeed, Keith this is much appreciated. 1. A very good point indeed and I will follow this up. See above post for brief ideas on dealing with potentially the worst situation. 2. Yes, I’ve been working towards this project for many years! I can’t say that this project was what I had in mind but I always knew I wanted a “big layout” one day. I will be quite happy to simply have a “plywood central” for several years, in all honesty. I simply need to know that I’m working towards my own ultimate layout - that is sufficient. 3. Bang on! Although this layout is for me, it would be very nice to at least share it with others, maybe here, maybe visitors from elsewhere and there is a complete stock list so my better half will have some idea of the value of it all when I’m not around. She is reasonably involved anyway, not that she’s passionate about any trains themselves but is interested in my philosophy and aims. Also, she won’t accept the plywood central for too long! Cheers and thanks again, John PS My initial passion for a forthcoming British outline 00 gauge loco was only temporary. Compare that with my passion for German H0 trains: 15 years fairly continuously, British H0: similar and US H0: roughly 30 years now! Before this, I was staunchly European H0 with only temporary excursions into 4mm, 7mm, 1/48th etc.
  13. I guess that any lower level storage yard is going to be around 2’ above the floor and possibly higher as there’s no way I could fill the entire area beneath the main benchwork with storage tracks. Therefore, it would be awkward or very difficult to physically get into the helix but possible, even if it’s not me doing it. Ideally, any derailments will be quite accessible from the outside of the helix though. With a large radius (1m) helix, I plan to have greater hand access between the levels and also a shallow wall both inside and outside the trackbed to retain stock should the worst happen. All good points, chaps, thanks for your contributions. John
  14. Hi Dr G-F, A wonderful acquisition, I really love the BR65 (and the 65.10 but that’s another story). If you fancy having a go at digitising it yourself, here is a nice set of visual instructions; http://www.hp-pfeiffer.de/digi_umbau1/dcc/br65_flm_neu_h0/br65_flm_neu_h0.html He even includes a link to the various isolated motor faceplates that can make the job even easier. I cheated and bought a DCC ready model, quite a few years ago now but having converted a few Fleischmann locos, I’d say “go for it “ as you’ll obtain great satisfaction from being a diyer. Cheers, John. PS good luck with the thesis by the way.
  15. Oh, I don’t know, I haven’t seen any gerbils frittered recently so I’m guessing the doctor has been busy!
  16. Hurrah! If I may add to Tony C’s message - with acrylics, I initially flush excess paint through the brush with water! I find this is sufficient that I can change paint colour without having to strip the whole brush down. A simple blast through with airbrush cleaner at the end of the session is usually enough but I do do a full strip down every two or three sessions. Just to be sure. Making sure the needle is really clean is important but don’t do what I did to my first airbrush many years ago and over tighten the needle into the bezel - mine split and that was the end of my first airbrush! It was a cheap one to be fair but it put me off for a long time. By the way, I painted the actual rails on my linked layout, with a “Rusty Rails” device, it’s a really useful tiny roller that saves hours of brush painting and leaves the rails looking great BUT you must use very dilute paint. Only then did I attack the whole trackbed with the airbrush. Cheers, John
  17. Austria; Copyright: Sartarabad. An 1142 on a local service near Linz.
  18. Hello Amanda, I like the sound of this! If I may suggest either a newer Fleischmann BR94 that has a DCC socket already fitted (this should also have a “flywheel” motor, actually just lead type material sections fitted between the motor segments) OR a modern Trix version - I have both models and they are both excellent, the Trix is smoother but the Fleischmann is more powerful. If you’re rich, you could also go for the ESU BR94 with sound and everything but I understand that it’s less powerful. I only have an older Fleischmann BR50 but it’s still good, like you say, even older German stuff is better than typical 00! As illustrated in a couple of my books on nebenbahn, the BR50 was a bit of a maid of all work and could be seen on all sorts of trains on branch lines. For track, my standard recommendation is Roco-Line - the 2.1mm high stuff (code 83) NOT the 2.5mm high (code 100) NOR the Geo-line. All three types are made by Roco so please beware of the differences. You can get Roco-Line with and without track bed, the choice is yours. I haven’t any decent pictures available but if you hunt on the likes of Stummis forum, you should find good examples. A friend of mine recommends Piko track as a lower cost alternative but I know very little about it. I only mention it as you should have good access to it. I should say that Peco bullhead would be rather incongruous for a German outline layout but may be useful if you already have it in stock? Maybe you could sell it for a good price, I don’t know but I understand that quite a few of your country folk model British outline, not to mention all the Brits living in Europe who might appreciate the chance to obtain supplies tax/duty free! I hope this helps, John
  19. I can’t resist New Zealand again; Copyright: Daryl Bond. A pair of DXs on a container train near Katiki, South Island.
  20. Hi Richard, Your five steps certainly seem great to me! Any particular reason for the switch to brush painting in step 4? I certainly agree with you on using a larger brush, I remember finding that better when I used brushing but that was a long time ago. I’ve literally ruined reasonable models with over-thick applications of inappropriate paint and it is very off putting. I particularly agree with you on the way magazines and their editors used to run things, I’ll say no more! Cheers, John
  21. Hi Fred, A lovely scene! O gauge, I presume? If so, then were they the Pola 89 and Rivarrossi 80? I used to have a Rivarrossi BR80 in my O gauge days, it was a really nice model and had been upgraded with better motor and details, not by me sadly. All long gone now though, as much as I like the larger scales, I can’t have the variety I can afford in H0. Cheers, John
  22. Hi Robin, Thanks for your reply. I do have Anyrail on my big PC but that isn’t set up at the moment. I think it’s V5 as I couldn’t get on with V6! Also, it’s the paid for version so I’m not limited to how many pieces of track I can use. In terms of through station, the German section has to include my full Trix model of Dammtor station, Hamburg, the two kits that make up this model give you a building with an integral overall roof of some 1.4 metres length. That’s a big building! Only four tracks and platform faces though but on the prototype, the platforms extend a long way out of one end and hardly anything out of the other end. Maybe a grade separated return would be good, I don’t know. I would like a viaduct of some kind but stone, brick or concrete - we had one of those timber trestles on an old club layout and yes, it did eat up room and also looked quite wrong with large steam locomotives and modern diesels running over it. I am sure I will have a helix, maybe I can go with one only, I know they are quite something to construct and they eat up a lot of track too. I’m thinking around 6 foot diameter to keep grades and curvature down as much as possible. The point to this exercise is to help me decide how to actually go about planning such a project. Whenever I’ve embarked on a project previously, I had a specific space to fill but this is different as the whole house is being designed by me and my wife. We have professional help with this but if I can establish the basis for what my layout should be, I can make any changes to the house plans if necessary. Cheers, John
  23. Hi there, Sorry about the rash of “likes” but I’m finding this a fascinating layout and area with some really great modelling going on. Brilliant! A good friend of mine has a couple of those Bonn station buildings, I wonder if I could persuade him to part with one!? Cheers, John
  24. It sure is a smashing looking model. Thanks for showing it, I didn’t know anything about it before. Cheers, John
  25. Thanks guys. Ooh, interesting conversations, this is what I wanted to stimulate! Operations; Again, my interests vary on a day to day basis such that one day I will want to sit back and watch trains circulate, the next, I will do some switching, the next I will operate per timetable and so forth. However, although I am a mostly digital user, I am not interested in any kind of automation. I do get it, especially when it comes to watching trains circulating but I cannot get interested, I don’t want to and my brain doesn’t either. Plus, I’d rather spend that investment on other things. Experience with large layouts; Some! I’ve been a member of four different clubs around the UK and a couple of groups in France. My first own built large layout was built in two linked attic bedrooms with split levels in my old house in Derby, this was largely an American outline layout. When I moved up north, I eventually purchased a layout of 27’ x 9’ from my local club called “Leigh Moor & Randale Summit” - this looked like a four track section of main line but was really only a folded single line with two long loops. Under analog control I could set it up so two trains could circulate, after I gave it digital control, it was easy to run three at once - single handed. I thought it was fairly non country specific but it was actually too British to run my various foreign trains on so I sold it quite a few years ago now and went small layouts for a while. This was not that satisfying to me. More thoughts; I am being drawn towards the idea of a multi deck project with say, British at the highest level (I am very drawn to the latest 00 releases and such height would disguise the narrow gauge look), European and American below. I can justify trains travelling through France, Germany, Austria in sequence, on one level but I simply cannot reconcile then skipping into North America for example. Three separate levels! Plus, a potential storage yard on a very low level, phew! And I want the stuff without traction tyres or multiple locos at the top! I strongly suspect the only way to link these levels is via a large diameter helix or even two, one at each end. I am thinking of screening each level off from the one actually being operated, by removable curtains Velcro’d into place like exhibition layout screens are, this way I only see one scene at a time. Finally - I am drawn to the ’L’ shape of layout, whether it will be with equal sized legs or odd, I cannot say but likely veering towards the golden ratio. Cheers all, John
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