Dapol 08

[3 link]

"... ... Any more suggestions?[/font][/size]

 

David

Yes, can you fix mine after you fix yours !

 

Martyn.

[3 link]

"... are the cranks to far out from the axleboxes?"

 

It certainly looks like it to me ... they are just going to have to go ... and, whilst I am at it, the cranks are going to have to be faced off flat and a centre drilled in ... and ...

 

Good grief, I wasn't going to do anything to this one!  Well maybe I'd add the guard irons and replace the skinny vacuum hoses and bags ... and line the balance weights up to be opposite the crank throws and ... Any more suggestions?

 

David

Oh and must not forget the door handles are in the wrong place.....

 

Martyn.

[Greenmodelmonkey]

"... are the cranks to far out from the axleboxes?"

 

It certainly looks like it to me ... they are just going to have to go ... and, whilst I am at it, the cranks are going to have to be faced off flat and a centre drilled in ... and ...

 

Good grief, I wasn't going to do anything to this one!  Well maybe I'd add the guard irons and replace the skinny vacuum hoses and bags ... and line the balance weights up to be opposite the crank throws and ... Any more suggestions?

 

David

..... Replace the front ladders as all the rungs now drop out if they are touched in any way, add two more dial gauges to cab control desk as they should have been six (complete with transfers), add lifting eyes to roof that are missing, add front and rear guard irons to chassis. Convert chassis to Scaleseven and at same time reduce the thickness of the oversize brass bearings, remove the moulding flash from body that prevents one of the doors from shutting.....

[Johnfromoz]

Quick question for Paul or fellow sound installers.

 

Have got the Zimo LS40 twin speaker option and need to solder some wires to it. Can I solder to any point on the connecting wire bars (+ & -) which join both speakers? Not used twin speakers before.

 

Cheers

 

John

[pauliebanger]

Quick question for Paul or fellow sound installers.

 

Have got the Zimo LS40 twin speaker option and need to solder some wires to it. Can I solder to any point on the connecting wire bars (+ & -) which join both speakers? Not used twin speakers before.

 

Cheers

 

John

 

John,

 

See my answer in the Beale Street thread,

 

Paul

Edited November 28, 2016 by pauliebanger

[Johnfromoz]

John,

 

See my answer in the Beale Street thread,

 

Paul

Hi Paul, I was asking about the wire connections at the twin speaker end. Have replied on Beale Street.

 

Cheers

 

John

[CloggyDog]

If you have a double-exhauster-box version numbered 13244/D3244/08176 or lower, you ought to remove all the small vertical bonnet door grabs and make good - the early ones didn't have them.

 

08176: 08176 LAMBTON CW (2) 17-10-85 by vincentminto, on Flickr

 

08177: 08177 Hull Botanic Gardens Depot Sept 1985 by M Harris, on Flickr

 

 

 

 

 

Good grief, I wasn't going to do anything to this one!  Well maybe I'd add the guard irons and replace the skinny vacuum hoses and bags ... and line the balance weights up to be opposite the crank throws and ... Any more suggestions?

 

David

Edited November 28, 2016 by CloggyDeux

[Johnfromoz]

Hi Paul, I was asking about the wire connections at the twin speaker end. Have replied on Beale Street.

Cheers

John

I guess what I'm asking is whether I have to wire the Zimo twin speakers in series or a simple soldering to the cross bar wires joining each speaker as Digitrains kindly ommited to attach speaker wires as requested

 

Grateful if anyone using the Zimo LS40x20 twin speakers in their 08 can advise on where the wires are soldered at the speaker end.

 

Thanks

 

John

[Lodekka]

I guess what I'm asking is whether I have to wire the Zimo twin speakers in series or a simple soldering to the cross bar wires joining each speaker as Digitrains kindly ommited to attach speaker wires as requested

 

Grateful if anyone using the Zimo LS40x20 twin speakers in their 08 can advise on where the wires are soldered at the speaker end.

 

Thanks

 

John

 

I have just acquired the same set-up and noted that the speakers are just linked in parallel so you should be able to attach the wires at any point (one wire to each side) along the wire links.

 

Think this sound solution is proving popular as they had few left at Warley when I was at the stand...

 

By all accounts so far this is reputedly the best sound setup for a 7m 08.

Regards

[pauliebanger]

I guess what I'm asking is whether I have to wire the Zimo twin speakers in series or a simple soldering to the cross bar wires joining each speaker as Digitrains kindly ommited to attach speaker wires as requested

 

Grateful if anyone using the Zimo LS40x20 twin speakers in their 08 can advise on where the wires are soldered at the speaker end.

 

Thanks

 

John

 

John,

 

Sorry, I answered the question I thought you had asked. My mistake.

 

As mentioned by Lodekka, one wire to each of the fitted connecting wires on the speaker is the way to go.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[3 link]

Anyone know if Tower Models have had the next delivery yet? Supposedly either last Friday or today and they are the green, early crest and DC type.

 

Martyn.

[two tone green]

I had a call of them today confirming my order for green with chevrons. Next week, fingers crossed.

[boxbrownie]

Well I am totally confused, I know I pre ordered from Hattons (which I recieved last week) but also think I ordered from Rails as well.....fingers crossed 

[bertiedog]

Oh Dear, it is an RTR loco after all, the flycranks are a bit far out, but OK, the face should be flat, but it is correctable, and all the smaller details may not match your particular prototype, but they can't cater for everybody. I am adding windscreen wipers. but that's about it, ...somebody mentioned lifting rings, where exactly are they as most photos do not show the roof. These should be easy to add without affecting the finish.

To much disassembly to put the flycranks opposite the weights at present.

Were the drivers standing to operate these shunters or did they sit? Just trying to get a realistic driver figure to fit to the cab, most spotting/photos of these were too far away to see the driver. Also were they one man crew or two? (BR days in the1950's).

 

Stephen

[Greenmodelmonkey]

Oh Dear, it is an RTR loco after all, the flycranks are a bit far out, but OK, the face should be flat, but it is correctable, and all the smaller details may not match your particular prototype, but they can't cater for everybody. I am adding windscreen wipers. but that's about it, ...somebody mentioned lifting rings, where exactly are they as most photos do not show the roof. These should be easy to add without affecting the finish.

To much disassembly to put the flycranks opposite the weights at present.

Were the drivers standing to operate these shunters or did they sit? Just trying to get a realistic driver figure to fit to the cab, most spotting/photos of these were too far away to see the driver. Also were they one man crew or two? (BR days in the1950's).

 

Stephen

Lifting eyes on roof are extremly well represented on the Hornby 00 version. I asked Richard Webster from Dapol if they were going to be added to Dapol version when I saw and preproduction example at Bristol O gauge show a couple of years ago and his short reply was "No".

[Meld9003]

Oh Dear, it is an RTR loco after all, the flycranks are a bit far out, but OK, the face should be flat, but it is correctable, and all the smaller details may not match your particular prototype, but they can't cater for everybody. I am adding windscreen wipers. but that's about it, ...somebody mentioned lifting rings, where exactly are they as most photos do not show the roof. These should be easy to add without affecting the finish.

To much disassembly to put the flycranks opposite the weights at present.

Were the drivers standing to operate these shunters or did they sit? Just trying to get a realistic driver figure to fit to the cab, most spotting/photos of these were too far away to see the driver. Also were they one man crew or two? (BR days in the1950's).

 

Stephen

The two photos of 08176 and 08177 above show them.

[delticfan]

Any chance of a Class 13 in the near future?

[Elvinley]

Oh Dear, it is an RTR loco after all, the flycranks are a bit far out, but OK, the face should be flat, but it is correctable, and all the smaller details may not match your particular prototype, but they can't cater for everybody. I am adding windscreen wipers. but that's about it, ...somebody mentioned lifting rings, where exactly are they as most photos do not show the roof. These should be easy to add without affecting the finish.

To much disassembly to put the flycranks opposite the weights at present.

Were the drivers standing to operate these shunters or did they sit? Just trying to get a realistic driver figure to fit to the cab, most spotting/photos of these were too far away to see the driver. Also were they one man crew or two? (BR days in the1950's).

 

Stephen

Sitting or standing depending on what was happening at the time. Good question about crew numbers. Certainly one driver in my time on them but that was only a few years back. The shunter spent plenty of time in the cab as well. Of course there could always be another person being trained up at any time. Edited November 29, 2016 by Elvinley

[Guest Isambarduk]

"Oh Dear, it is an RTR loco after all ..."
 
Exactly, Stephen, and it's superbly engineered at a remarkably low price, so I have no criticisms whatsoever. 
 
I might decide to make some alterations to my 08 but that will be because I really quite enjoy reworking and amending RTR models* as a light diversion from scratch-building (from scratch or working on a reasonable kit as a basis) to finish up with something a little different to everybody else.  I do not make alterations primarily for correction and I certainly do not mention them as a criticism of the manufacturer. 
 
Or I might decide to do nothing to my model, as I originally intended.
 
David
 
* For example, reworking the Ixion Hudswell Clarke at:
www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/69095-idea-conversion-of-ixion-hudswell-clarke/?p=1001446 
and rather more concisely at: www.davidlosmith.co.uk/GCR_Humber.htm

Edited November 29, 2016 by Isambarduk

[Izzy]

Having built/modified the odd 08 in both 2mm & 4mm could the brass spacing washers behind the flycranks be there to prevent them from catching on the raised details such as the springs as they revolve yet allow a measure of axle sideplay? Just a thought as they are so obvious.

 

Izzy

[boxbrownie]

Were the drivers standing to operate these shunters or did they sit? Just trying to get a realistic driver figure to fit to the cab, most spotting/photos of these were too far away to see the driver. Also were they one man crew or two? (BR days in the1950's).

 

Stephen

As stated above depending upon the duty it was up to the driver whether he sat or stood, usually standing as I remember.

 

Also virtually every time I cabbed with my Uncle on my way home from school back in the 60's at Hornsey depot it was just him and me, no fireman/secondman but again as above there was always a shunter or two around, a lot of the time standing on the steps at the front!

 

First diesel I ever drove the 08.......sweet spot in my heart for the grubby little things.

[Pannier Tank]

Were the drivers standing to operate these shunters or did they sit? Just trying to get a realistic driver figure to fit to the cab, most spotting/photos of these were too far away to see the driver. Also were they one man crew or two? (BR days in the1950's).

Circa 1963 during the Steam / Diesel Transition the local Pilots at Bletchley (amongst others) were 47500 / 47521 & D3795 / D3796. I assume because the Pilot could be Steam or Diesel there was often a "Second Man" on the Diesel Shunter and the Driver would often be Standing whilst Driving. 

[Lodekka]

The Dapol 08 Doctor will see you now....

 

Am I the first to dismember my 08 completely?

Being quite comfortable with taking things apart and not too fussed about warranty (once I had proven it basically works).

 

Contemplating fitting a Zimo 644D sound chip to my 08 last night led me to start removing screws to see if access could be made as simple as possible.

 

So, as others have found, the body and chassis can easily be separated with two small screws (one at each end of the chassis) , remembering to carefully

disconnect the wiring/plugs inside and gently threading the chassis out of the plastic items (vac pipes, rear crossbar, pipework plugged into chassis etc.).

 

We now have the two parts - I want to fit a crew, the Cice art ones are very nice and a good price too..

See here http://artcice.wixsite.com/cice

 

Body

Therefore I needed to gain access to the cab. Removing the two side by side screws below the cab allowed the whole assembly to lift vertically away from the bodyshell.

Again, take care that the wires to the cab and marker lights are threaded out as well. The wires are thin and easily snagged..

 

With the cab free, it is found to be made up of two parts, the control desk and floor separates from the outer cab body by very very gently easing the cab body outward starting with the control desk end and working round (note, it may be glued) to the back of the body where there are two very small clips in each corner of the rear cab inside wall.

 

Once free, the two parts separate to reveal a very nicely detailed cab - you can now add more gauges/detail and crew easily.

 

WARNING - be careful of the hinged doors, as the fine wire pin that secures them is liable to fall out... Best keep the cab body inverted to help keep the wire in.

 

The main body/nose assembly is also glued to the footplate (most probably to avoid a gap showing !) although there are two recessed screws if you are needing to separate things further. I chose not to, as access is now clear to easily mount a speaker behind the nice mesh radiator grille.

 

The Zimo dual chamber speaker is an easy fit with plenty of room available.

It can be secured with blu-tak or a small bracket.

 

Also plenty of room for a small smoke generator. <a project for another report later>

 

Many will have found that the centre lower marker light is not active (no led fitted). I plan to add one as there is some space - albeit tight...

With a Zimo decoder a separate funcrtion can be added to drive this if required (or wire it into working with one of the others)

 

Chassis

Turning to the chassis...

The small circuit board can easily be removed via the two small screws on top once the wires have been unsoldered (mine were rather untidy) - and I wanted to replace them with slightly thicker wire as I intend to make my loco dual mode with a DC - DCC switch inside.

 

Also allowing me to add my stored charge lighting circuit for when on DC use ;-) Keeps the shunting lights on for a long period when stopped.

 

The plastic support frame that holds the small plug board also acts as a motor retainer and is simply clipped out of the chassis  by gently prying with a small blade on each of the lower part of the four legs and the frame lifts away.

 

Now the motor can be lifted out from the flywheel end and the gearing examined for lubrication etc.

Actually the motor is not securely fitted, simply resting in the chassis casting cradle and secured with the plastic clip surround - this might be why some mechanisms are a bit noisy at higher speeds.

 

I also noticed a fair bit of sideplay in the main drive axle which may need attention later on, that plus the slop in the crank/connecting rods means a sloppy drive action.

But this is something that one of the machining fiends (like Isambard) will fix in his own inimitable style and we can all wait for a long treatise on how this is done.

Even thought he said in a previous post that he didn't plan to do any modifications - I know he will!!

 

Note the plastic sticky pad insulator on the base - again mine was not particularly square or ensuring a good insulator against the lower motor feed wire (Grey).

I have sleeved my motor wires separately for additional safety. The insulator is also a partial cushion against vibration but is somewhat poor at that task.

 

Replacing the pickup and motor connections with thicker wiring allows me to fit the DC/DCC changeover switch and rewire back to the PCB.

Plenty of room to route the wiring neatly alongside the inner frame.

 

Whilst on the subject of the connection PCB, I decided I did not like the DCC sound chip sitting at an angle and placing stress on the 21MTC connector.

 

Therefore I have performed the following modification

 

• Carefully unsolder and remove the two green inductors from the topside of the board.
• Refit on the underside in the same holes.
• The components are no polarity conscious so this is a simple job.
• It will be seen that they now will foul the plastic carrier  - so this is a simple task to gently carve/drill away just enough of the plastic frame to allow them to sit clear with the PCB level on top. The carrier strength is slightly reduced, but it is not supporting a lot of weight or force so all will be well.
• This now means the decoder will sit level. ;-))

 

Re-assembling everything is (in the best traditions of a Haynes manual) a reverse of the above procedure....

 

So I now have a DCC sound fitted 08 that is dual switchable to DC for use on other friends layouts, and has stored charge lighting for DC use (it lasts a number of minutes and tricks many people into thinking my layout is DCC... not!)

 

Comment welcome.

 

I plan to add more later - pictures of all this to follow soon.

Lodekka.

[Guest Isambarduk]

That's most helpful, Lodekka.  Thank you.

 

"... quite comfortable with taking things apart and not too fussed about warranty (once I had proven it basically works)."

 

My stance exactly and it's never backfired on me but then it shouldn't really: if you can scratch-build or build a kit that didn't work before you started, you should be able to put back together a RTR model that did :-)

 

David

[CloggyDog]

Having now de-numbered my 08202 and with the rods removed for stripping and repainting yellow, I'm considering what it's eventual identity will be.

 

I'm strongly drawn to recreating one of 2 from my childhood spotting days of the late-70s/early-80s... either 08256 or 08261, both of Colchester (CR) depot.

 

08256 had oval buffers fitted at some point in the mid-late 1970s and carried them until withdrawn in Feb 1984

08256_-_Colchester_-_22_January_1984 by Steven Hughes, on Flickr

And this would be a cracking little train to recreate:

 

08261 was notable for the left-side cab clearly showing it's former 13331 identity

Class08_08261_Stratford_shed_24_April_1984 by DMC1947, on Flickr