Dapol 08

[Lodekka]

But you haven't explained what the (about) 8 components are and what the circuit diagram is, so it's not workable for anyone with out these. I assume you would be able to provide this using your electronics knowledge to help those that are not as experienced as you appear to be?

Ah yes, but weren't you concerned about invalidating your warranty with a bit of cut plastic on the motor frame?

 

If you see the response to F-UnitMad it did describe (albeit in outline) what the components were...

 

Fear not, I'll do another post with all to be revealed...

Lodekka

[Greenmodelmonkey]

Ah yes, but weren't you concerned about invalidating your warranty with a bit of cut plastic on the motor frame?

If you see the response to F-UnitMad it did describe (albeit in outline) what the components were...

Fear not, I'll do another post with all to be revealed...

Lodekka

Sounds good, I won't be pursing myself but it could be useful to others who are seeking something similar.

[F-UnitMad]

@Lodekka, you have a PM

[lewey13]

The Dapol 08 is just about the easiest ever in which to install a sound decoder.  With a Zimo 644D (21 pin)  decoder just solder a speaker to the two wires and pop the decoder in.  And it  's not much more difficult if you want to add a stay alive capacitor.  There's plenty of room under the bonnet.

The delay must be for a reason and its strange that so much patience is required for the sound version to become available.

Norman

 

My problem is I have a slight shake of the hand so can only solder say wire to track anything that needs a steady hand I just can't do. So I am having to ask others to help and I just can't keep asking. Duncan

[boxbrownie]

My problem is I have a slight shake of the hand so can only solder say wire to track anything that needs a steady hand I just can't do. So I am having to ask others to help and I just can't keep asking. Duncan

 

Where are you?

 

Keep asking..........

[3 link]

My green meanie finally arrived today, I haven't taken it out of the wrapping yet but it does look the biz. I chose an un-numbered one and I still need to do some research before I decide on a location and number.

 

 

Martyn.

Edited December 3, 2016 by 3 link

[lewey13]

Where are you?

 

Keep asking..........

I live in ireland

[Izzy]

What transfers are people using/recommend for the unnumbered BR Black 08s, I have searched through the topic but can't see any mention of what people are using!

 

I am intrigued as well for all the un-numbered versions, black/green/blue, since obtaining suitable HMRS sheets - steam era I suppose for the black and BR blue for the others - will be £20 a pop. Current 7mm users will probably have sheets to hand but it does make the ready numbered ones seem better for anyone not particularly bothered by the actual number.

 

Izzy

[Guest Q663368]

Railtec are an excellent source of numbering these loco's for Dxxxx pre and post TOPS.

 

Detailed Miniatures should have LH and RH drivers available at the up and coming Gauge O Guild event this coming weekend in Reading.

[Guest Q663368]

My green meanie finally arrived today, I haven't taken it out of the wrapping yet but it does look the biz. I chose an un-numbered one and I still need to do some research before I decide on a location and number.

RenderedContent-3312A58A-C854-46DF-930F-E9898AA84BFB.JPG

Martyn.

Go on, take it out of the box. You know you want to. Then you could post more pic's. I bought 13240 and D3045.

[GWC1]

Thanks to everyone who has been posting information on the 08. I stripped mine down to paint some cab details and add a driver. While it was apart I looked at the cranks and those spacer washers and decided to do something about it. This is a warning - it isn't easy!

 

The cranks are metal, probably diecast, and the axles are plain steel, so I had to make a makeshift gear puller to get the cranks off. I made it up from a piece of 22mm copper pipe and an M3 screw and nut. Steel square section would have been better than the copper as the pipe is quite soft and distorted easily. I soldered a piece of N/S strip on to strengthen it. It is a bit basic, and can be seen creeping into the photo of the refitted cranks. Having got the cranks off I removed the washers and, while they were off, decided to add a working speedo drive to match the one on my other 08, a MMP kit. This involved drilling into the back of the rod and glueing in a piece of steel wire. This mates with a brass arm that revolves in a brass bush glued into the plastic sideframe. The second picture shows it.

Having removed the cranks, I cut about 2mm off the end of each axle. I found it easiest to do this with a piercing saw as it was difficult to get in with a junior hacksaw. I didn't remove the wheels from the chassis, which might have made it easier. When putting the cranks back, as they are metal on plain steel, it is necessary to use some Loctite on it. I only had 243 to hand but I think 601 is best for this job.

When reassembling the rods it is, of course, important to set the quartering. I did this by eye and it seems OK. Press the cranks on carefully and go part way then check the quartering, adjusting if necessary. I did the trailing axles first so I could check they were free before doing the last pair onto the powered axle. I then ran it up and down on power very slowly watching the current meter so I could make sure there were no tight spots. When satisfied all was right I pressed the cranks fully on then painted them and the axle ends black.

This photo shows the reassambled loco part way through weathering.

The final photo shows the Dapol 08 next to the MMP one (which has a loose cab roof awaiting insertion of a driver). They are very similar in levels of detail, which is amazing as they cost about the same, but the Dapol one comes ready to run!

I am very pleased with mine.

[edcayton]

Have you noticed any clearance issues with the spacers gone?

 

Ed

[GWC1]

No, I thought I might have to put some thin washers in, but there is enough clearance without any spacers. I was careful to only cut off a bit of axle the same length as the thickness of the Dapol spacers that I removed. The wheels still have some sidefloat but not much and they miss the detail on the frames quite easily.

[d600]

Hi I thought the brass spacers were there to bring the coupling rods out to the correct position am I wrong in thinking that?

 

Cheers

[GWC1]

Hi I thought the brass spacers were there to bring the coupling rods out to the correct position am I wrong in thinking that?

 

Cheers

Afraid so, have a look at post 1026 in this thread.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Thanks to everyone who has been posting information on the 08. I stripped mine down to paint some cab details and add a driver. While it was apart I looked at the cranks and those spacer washers and decided to do something about it. This is a warning - it isn't easy!

 

The cranks are metal, probably diecast, and the axles are plain steel, so I had to make a makeshift gear puller to get the cranks off. I made it up from a piece of 22mm copper pipe and an M3 screw and nut. Steel square section would have been better than the copper as the pipe is quite soft and distorted easily. I soldered a piece of N/S strip on to strengthen it. It is a bit basic, and can be seen creeping into the photo of the refitted cranks. Having got the cranks off I removed the washers and, while they were off, decided to add a working speedo drive to match the one on my other 08, a MMP kit. This involved drilling into the back of the rod and glueing in a piece of steel wire. This mates with a brass arm that revolves in a brass bush glued into the plastic sideframe. The second picture shows it.

08chassis.JPG

Having removed the cranks, I cut about 2mm off the end of each axle. I found it easiest to do this with a piercing saw as it was difficult to get in with a junior hacksaw. I didn't remove the wheels from the chassis, which might have made it easier. When putting the cranks back, as they are metal on plain steel, it is necessary to use some Loctite on it. I only had 243 to hand but I think 601 is best for this job.

When reassembling the rods it is, of course, important to set the quartering. I did this by eye and it seems OK. Press the cranks on carefully and go part way then check the quartering, adjusting if necessary. I did the trailing axles first so I could check they were free before doing the last pair onto the powered axle. I then ran it up and down on power very slowly watching the current meter so I could make sure there were no tight spots. When satisfied all was right I pressed the cranks fully on then painted them and the axle ends black.

This photo shows the reassambled loco part way through weathering.

assembled.JPG

The final photo shows the Dapol 08 next to the MMP one (which has a loose cab roof awaiting insertion of a driver). They are very similar in levels of detail, which is amazing as they cost about the same, but the Dapol one comes ready to run!

I am very pleased with mine.

Hi,

 

Your two 08s seem to compare very well and you have done some sterling-brave-work so as to refine the Dapol model, very nice indeed!

 

Mine is now running-in nicely, after a few weeks. I thought that I initially detected a very minor intermittent tight spot when running forward-normally, if doing stuff for myself, I try to rid chassis of tight spots, whether, wagon, coach or loco, at each stage of the build, to avoid a fingers crossed attitude to running-in. I have to say though, notwithstanding, the Dapol 08 is commendably smooth straight from the box and seems to get better each use. Im only running it on DC, before I decide whether or not to fit RC or DCC.

 

As the 08 is now running-in, I noted that the quartering seems marginally out, albeit very slightly. So if the loco is stopped in certain positions the rods, to the rear would eg. be slightly higher than at the front-thus not straight & level. I have viewed one or two others and they seem to be similar in this regard (IIRC someone else mentioned similar on here). Having said this the rods appear jointed and thus there is some movement on the middle axle and cranks....

 

....I was wondering, as the quartering is nigh on perfect but not quite, if anyone else had noted such and/or bothered to rectify it? From my POV I cant work out if its the rear axle/crank or the middle set-I think its the rear?? Also a mantra of; 'if it aint broke then dont fix it' rings in my ears, dating back to my early teens and motorbike/car repairs. Ha Ha!

 

But if I have to take the rods off, I may then carry out the same conversion as you.

 

I wondered if you had noted that the quartering was mildly out of kilter on yours prior to your reworking, or how yours is running/looking after setting up the quartering by eye, since your modifications-ie do the rods run straight and level on yours, are they better in this regard, than before (out of the box), now?

 

Many thanks ATVB

 

CME

 

EDIT;- It appears that the play/slack in the rods, ie around the centre drivers, cranks and rods-of course to allow for a level of compensation-is the reason for the aforementioned issue, there is also a marginal misalignment in the quartering which may be why one aspect affects the other, yet it is only marginal.

Edited December 8, 2016 by CME and Bottlewasher

[GWC1]

Thanks CME & Bottlewasher. I didn't note the quartering before I took the rods off but I ran in on my rolling road which now has a tacho fitted. The speed was very constant right down to stop, with no sticky spots. After I refitted the cranks I had to adjust them slightly to get them smooth and it runs just as well now as it did before. I also corrected the balance weight position when I refitted the cranks. If you plan to only adjust the cranks, it will be tricky I think as the cranks are pressed on and hold quite firm. You may have to remove a crank then put it back in the new position, so have the loctite handy.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Thanks CME & Bottlewasher. I didn't note the quartering before I took the rods off but I ran in on my rolling road which now has a tacho fitted. The speed was very constant right down to stop, with no sticky spots. After I refitted the cranks I had to adjust them slightly to get them smooth and it runs just as well now as it did before. I also corrected the balance weight position when I refitted the cranks. If you plan to only adjust the cranks, it will be tricky I think as the cranks are pressed on and hold quite firm. You may have to remove a crank then put it back in the new position, so have the loctite handy.

Hi GWC,

 

Thanks for your reply - I agree, I believe that it will have to be an all or nothing situation - I am wondering if I should invest in a wheel puller, I have another little shunter chassis that may need attention in that regard too. In general I dont like taking wheels like this off of models like this - ie interference/press-fit - in case anything distorts (makes one grateful for Slaters' wheels) - but you have led the way so it should be okay as a one off fix. Thanks for the tip on the Loctite I shall have to check which one I have in stock - I used to use similar when racing RC cars etc.

 

It is puzzling why the collets/bushes are in place as washers would have sufficed as would have shorter axles (the latter affecting the former of course).

 

May I ask when cutting yours by hand, did you avoid the use of a miniature cutting disc so as to avoid heat build up?

 

Also how do the cabs compare on the MMP to the Dapol models - the Dapol looks smaller....or is that an optical illusion?

 

I am now pondering the slack in the rods around the centre drivers - I am wondering if they could be bushed out or similar. Our layout has some real 'mileage' to it and I am more than a little concerned that the rods etc will wear further with this amount of play in them - only time will tell.

 

I have to say though the 08 has turned out to be a fine model and good VFM - most tweaks for specific running numbers are mildly cosmetic and easy to do. 

 

I wont be fettling my 08 (just running-in turns and shelf dwelling over the past few weeks) just yet as I have too many other things on the go and I would like to attend to the 08 in one or two modelling sessions and dedicate time and thought to it. I may just run it as is and paint the collets/bushes matt black - weather the loco - and run it like that, but knowing me, I shall be sat there, one day, thinking, 'well if I strip it all down now, I can crack on with it and it's all finished' and within minutes it will be in pieces LOL!

,

ATVB

 

CME

Edited December 8, 2016 by CME and Bottlewasher

[GWC1]

 

 

May I ask when cutting yours by hand, did you avoid the use of a miniature cutting disc so as to avoid heat build up?

 

Also how do the cabs compare on the MMP to the Dapol models - the Dapol looks smaller....or is that an optical illusion?

 

 

 

CME

I didn't use a cutting disc for fear of melting something. I tried a junior hacksaw but it didn't work very well in the space available so I switched to a piercing saw which worked fine. The only difficulty was keeping the fine blade straight. I filed the axle ends afterwards to level them off.

 

The cab does look a bit different to the MMP one. The door on the Dapol one seems a bit further forward than the MMP one. It shows up when trying to fit the numbers in. I used what are now HMRS transfers (I bought them when they were PC models!) on both locos and while they fitted OK on the MMP cab they were very tight on the Dapol one. Dapol have used smaller sized numbers and I wonder if BR did the same. I have ordered some Railtec numbers to see if they fit better as at the moment it looks a bit squashed.

 

regarding running, I have only ran it on rollers and a couple of times round the layout. Its big test will be at Stevenage show next month when it will be the main shunter on Netherwood Sidings.

[Greenmodelmonkey]

Hi GWC,

 

Thanks for your reply - I agree, I believe that it will have to be an all or nothing situation - I am wondering if I should invest in a wheel puller, I have another little shunter chassis that may need attention in that regard too. In general I dont like taking wheels like this off of models like this - ie interference/press-fit - in case anything distorts (makes one grateful for Slaters' wheels) - but you have led the way so it should be okay as a one off fix. Thanks for the tip on the Loctite I shall have to check which one I have in stock - I used to use similar when racing RC cars etc.

 

It is puzzling why the collets/bushes are in place as washers would have sufficed as would have shorter axles (the latter affecting the former of course).

 

May I ask when cutting yours by hand, did you avoid the use of a miniature cutting disc so as to avoid heat build up?

 

Also how do the cabs compare on the MMP to the Dapol models - the Dapol looks smaller....or is that an optical illusion?

 

I am now pondering the slack in the rods around the centre drivers - I am wondering if they could be bushed out or similar. Our layout has some real 'mileage' to it and I am more than a little concerned that the rods etc will wear further with this amount of play in them - only time will tell.

 

I have to say though the 08 has turned out to be a fine model and good VFM - most tweaks for specific running numbers are mildly cosmetic and easy to do. 

 

I wont be fettling my 08 (just running-in turns and shelf dwelling over the past few weeks) just yet as I have too many other things on the go and I would like to attend to the 08 in one or two modelling sessions and dedicate time and thought to it. I may just run it as is and paint the collets/bushes matt black - weather the loco - and run it like that, but knowing me, I shall be sat there, one day, thinking, 'well if I strip it all down now, I can crack on with it and it's all finished' and within minutes it will be in pieces LOL!

,

ATVB

 

CME

Be careful about the wear if you are thinking of removing brass bushes as die cast material against 'like-for-like' diecast material will wear quicker than if bushes were left in (or suggest put a thinner brass washer in place of the bush to minimise the risk). I will only change if I was to convert to S7 so will leave alone as I don't want to risk spoiling the loco.

[norman]

Does anyone know of an exploded view being published.  I'm particularly interested in how the buffer head is attached.

A frien had his delivered with one buffer head loose in the box.  Tower suggested he glue it back on but that is not a good solution.

 

Norman

[40F]

Does anyone know of an exploded view being published.  I'm particularly interested in how the buffer head is attached.

A frien had his delivered with one buffer head loose in the box.  Tower suggested he glue it back on but that is not a good solution.

 

Norman

 

 

Can`t see a problem with that advice

[CME and Bottlewasher]

I didn't use a cutting disc for fear of melting something. I tried a junior hacksaw but it didn't work very well in the space available so I switched to a piercing saw which worked fine. The only difficulty was keeping the fine blade straight. I filed the axle ends afterwards to level them off.

 

The cab does look a bit different to the MMP one. The door on the Dapol one seems a bit further forward than the MMP one. It shows up when trying to fit the numbers in. I used what are now HMRS transfers (I bought them when they were PC models!) on both locos and while they fitted OK on the MMP cab they were very tight on the Dapol one. Dapol have used smaller sized numbers and I wonder if BR did the same. I have ordered some Railtec numbers to see if they fit better as at the moment it looks a bit squashed.

 

regarding running, I have only ran it on rollers and a couple of times round the layout. Its big test will be at Stevenage show next month when it will be the main shunter on Netherwood Sidings.

Thanks, your reply is much appreciated, makes me wonder which cab is prototypical, or if they both are?

 

  

Be careful about the wear if you are thinking of removing brass bushes as die cast material against 'like-for-like' diecast material will wear quicker than if bushes were left in (or suggest put a thinner brass washer in place of the bush to minimise the risk). I will only change if I was to convert to S7 so will leave alone as I don't want to risk spoiling the loco.

  

 

Those are sage words of advice thanks, as I mentioned in a previous Post, if it aint broke then dont fix it....IF I were to convert the collets/bushes/axles, like you, I believe that a brass washer in their place would be prudent-theres bound to be some sideways movement, so washers, or smaller collets/bushes would be required. My other option is to paint the OEM parts black, leave as they are, and run the loco until something breaks/wears out and then modify.

 

Does anyone know of an exploded view being published.  I'm particularly interested in how the buffer head is attached.

A frien had his delivered with one buffer head loose in the box.  Tower suggested he glue it back on but that is not a good solution.

 

Norman

Have you contacted Dapol directly? DCC SUPPLIES are repairers n stock spares-although I couldnt see such for the 08 on their site yet, when I just looked. Or can your friend Post a photo on here as one of us may be able to help/advise on how/where to affix.

 

Kind regards to all,

 

CME

[norman]

Thanks, your reply is much appreciated, makes me wonder which cab is prototypical, or if they both are?

 

    

 

Those are sage words of advice thanks, as I mentioned in a previous Post, if it aint broke then dont fix it....IF I were to convert the collets/bushes/axles, like you, I believe that a brass washer in their place would be prudent-theres bound to be some sideways movement, so washers, or smaller collets/bushes would be required. My other option is to paint the OEM parts black, leave as they are, and run the loco until something breaks/wears out and then modify.

 

 

Have you contacted Dapol directly? DCC SUPPLIES are repairers n stock spares-although I couldnt see such for the 08 on their site yet, when I just looked. Or can your friend Post a photo on here as one of us may be able to help/advise on how/where to affix.

 

Kind regards to all,

 

CME

Hi

I have suggested that he phone Dapol but he does not want to go to the hassle of sending it back for what is or should be a fairly trivial problem.

As for posting a photo - I saw it tonight there's not much to see really, a loose buffer head which is metal and the buffer housing, inside the housing there appears to be a shaft which moves but does not drop out.

It could be that this shaft has a screw thread which screws into the buffer head but in any event the spring appears to be missing. 

An exploded diagram would be useful here.

 

Norman

[Greenmodelmonkey]

Thanks, your reply is much appreciated, makes me wonder which cab is prototypical, or if they both are?

    

Those are sage words of advice thanks, as I mentioned in a previous Post, if it aint broke then dont fix it....IF I were to convert the collets/bushes/axles, like you, I believe that a brass washer in their place would be prudent-theres bound to be some sideways movement, so washers, or smaller collets/bushes would be required. My other option is to paint the OEM parts black, leave as they are, and run the loco until something breaks/wears out and then modify.

 

Yes agreed will just used metal black solution on mine will

degrease with isopropyl alcohol first