Simond Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Pete How did you do the Dukedog water gauge? Looks excellent! I must immediately copy you! Sorry if you already posted on this... Best Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Hi Simon. I do the dials and water gauge the same way. I use Matt or satin all most white. They take pencil better. Then under my magnifying lamp with a sharpened 0.5mm propelling pencil I very careful draw on the lines. I used to do it by I but these days well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted April 13, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 13, 2017 Hi Peter, that is one very good looking Dukedog. Beautiful work. I actually think this class looks better in BR black. Maybe because it unifies the mixed origins. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 At last I have finally got to the end of this loco. Not much to show just bits and pieces glued on. Checking nothing fouls when all screwed up tight. I had to replace one of the smoke box dogs as it was lost when I bounced it on the floor. Best thing about it was the need to repaint it and getting the number plate much better. The backhead went back in nicely. After the weekend i will get it post to blighty. I am also happier with the dukedog. I trimmed some of the pickups, and it seems to help when going around curves. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Nice job, Pete Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted April 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 21, 2017 At last I have finally got to the end of this loco. Not much to show just bits and pieces glued on. Checking nothing fouls when all screwed up tight. I had to replace one of the smoke box dogs as it was lost when I bounced it on the floor. Best thing about it was the need to repaint it and getting the number plate much better. The backhead went back in nicely. After the weekend i will get it post to blighty. a.jpg b.jpg c.jpg d.jpg e.jpg I am also happier with the dukedog. I trimmed some of the pickups, and it seems to help when going around curves. Lovely - just missing it's Feltham shed code 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 (edited) Lovely - just missing it's Feltham shed code I tend to leave off things like coupling shed plates etc. As people can choose what they want. Commissions are a different thing, and ones for me. Edited April 21, 2017 by N15class 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 27, 2017 Author Share Posted May 27, 2017 Here we go on another project. This kit was originally meant for me but some decisions were made and I decided that I would sell it on and replace it later. I made a start and started a little while ago to try and get the mojo working properly. I was still waiting for parts to arrive. The wheels have come now, but not my extra castings. Hopefully they will be here soon as it is now about two months since they were posted. The frames were designed for using a RG7 motor and gearbox, with compensation. The problem is the compensation used a stretcher on the gearbox as part of the system, so that then needed to be replicated with a fold up box. I now need to add the the motor and make motor support and then I can set the footplate level. The frames are nice and wide but the bushes are very wide too, so work needs to be done to get the wheels to rotate. Now I have the wheels I will finish off the frames. I have folded up and partly assembled ready for adding most of the main parts ready to put together. I need to find a picture of the back sheet to see what the coal hole looked like. Shame I am no longer in Swanage. I have now fitted the sides back and smokebox to the footplate. I am now fitting the boiler which is a fairly heavy gauge tube. More on this later. The cab roof is was fun but then the that is the hazard of Drummond and Adams loco. They look good when done though. The cab front Has had the the spectacles fitted but still needs some holes for the pull push piping etc. There was a bit of a problem with the cab front and rear sheets and the bunker rear. This being they were all 0.5mm shy of being wide enough. Not unusual for a hand drawn kit and easily cured. At the moment I am trying to work out how all the pull push equipment goes together. The main tank is ready for the frames. I need to make one part for the kit as it seems to be missing. I was going to make this as a not fitted loco. but the kit only has handrail layout for the fitted version. More updates later once I get my feet back under the bench. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted May 31, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 31, 2017 Here we go on another project. This kit was originally meant for me but some decisions were made and I decided that I would sell it on and replace it later. I made a start and started a little while ago to try and get the mojo working properly. I was still waiting for parts to arrive. The wheels have come now, but not my extra castings. Hopefully they will be here soon as it is now about two months since they were posted. The frames were designed for using a RG7 motor and gearbox, with compensation. The problem is the compensation used a stretcher on the gearbox as part of the system, so that then needed to be replicated with a fold up box. a.jpg b.jpg c.jpg d.jpg I now need to add the the motor and make motor support and then I can set the footplate level. The frames are nice and wide but the bushes are very wide too, so work needs to be done to get the wheels to rotate. Now I have the wheels I will finish off the frames. I have folded up and partly assembled ready for adding most of the main parts ready to put together. I need to find a picture of the back sheet to see what the coal hole looked like. Shame I am no longer in Swanage. I have now fitted the sides back and smokebox to the footplate. I am now fitting the boiler which is a fairly heavy gauge tube. More on this later. The cab roof is was fun but then the that is the hazard of Drummond and Adams loco. They look good when done though. The cab front Has had the the spectacles fitted but still needs some holes for the pull push piping etc. There was a bit of a problem with the cab front and rear sheets and the bunker rear. This being they were all 0.5mm shy of being wide enough. Not unusual for a hand drawn kit and easily cured. e.jpg f.jpg g.jpg h.jpg i.jpg j.jpg k.jpg 2017-05-20 (8).jpg At the moment I am trying to work out how all the pull push equipment goes together. The main tank is ready for the frames. I need to make one part for the kit as it seems to be missing. I was going to make this as a not fitted loco. but the kit only has handrail layout for the fitted version. More updates later once I get my feet back under the bench. If it's what I think it is - Irwells Book of the M7's would be useful reference Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 If it's what I think it is - Irwells Book of the M7's would be useful reference It is a M7. Indeed to get the book, I will for mine. But I have the Bradley's even if they are short of pictures. My main worry on this is the castings from Laurie have not arrived,and I can't get him to email me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted May 31, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 31, 2017 It is a M7. Indeed to get the book, I will for mine. But I have the Bradley's even if they are short of pictures. My main worry on this is the castings from Laurie have not arrived,and I can't get him to email me. Have you tried long-distance carrier pigeon? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) A little more has been done to the M7. Somewhere I picked up a set of milled coupling rods which I have used in preference to the etched ones. I have put in quite a hefty bracket to stop the motor rotating it still leaves some movement, but does mean the compensation can be set up. As for the motor I had a canon motor and what I thought was a 20-1 gearset. Wrong 40-1. Also the motors I bought are different to my old stock. which were DN22´s. the new ones so I found out are EN22´s and run slower. Hopefully with a 20-1 gearset it should balance itself out. Brake gear is fitted apart from the link and adjuster from the lever to the fist cross shaft. This is not pat of the kit anyway. You will see that I needed to cut the lever as the bogie compensation gets in the way. I did not want the bogie the other way around as I thought the bits would be more visible. There is also the air tank for the PP equipment to go on the frames at the front and the injectors, and then I think that it will then be back to the body whilst the frames are painted. Edited June 29, 2017 by N15class 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Just had a play. My 0395 with 5ft wheels and the DN22 runs a lot faster than the M7 with 5ft 7in wheels and the EN22 motor. Definitely something amiss. I knew I should of kept more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 1, 2017 Author Share Posted July 1, 2017 Well that´s the frames finished ready for cleaning and painting, I made the pull rod and adjuster for the brakes. The brakes are make so the are removable via unclipping from the hanger and pulling the pi on the shaft lever. The injectors had the pipe work altered and fitted. the thin none attached on will go to the tank balance pipe once the body and frames are mated; The rear sand pipes are also in place. The buffer housings are fixed, along with the reservoir for the pull push gear. Front sand pipes and the whitemetal cast springs are all fixed. The front sand pipes were a little tricky as there was no where to locate the top, and keeping them out of the way of the brakes. Back to the body now. I am pleased with the way the kit is going even if it is a fairly basic effort. There are a few things that surprise me about what is included and what´s not. Like the air tank, why supply the tank but no straps to mount it on. There are a few oddities like this. I know its a 1980´s kit, but even so. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 We start today's post with a photo missed from the last update. Here is the brake gear as removed from the frames. You will see I added a small tube to the top of the hangers. It does two jobs one keep them all the same distance from the frames and pushes over the wire mounted on the frames to hold them in place. Back to the body. I built up a coal hole and shoveling plate on the back sheet nothing in the kit, and just my guess work on what it looked like. The bunker was finished off, by adding the slopping plate and the coal rails and backing sheets (not in kit,although kit is for air control gear which i do believe were all fitted with them). The front sheet and tanks inside the cab were added. The boiler was then fitted between the front sheet and smokebox. Hopefully all the holes I needed to drill are in the right place. Now it is time to add the pull push casting and other brass casting. I am hoping that there is problems there, the cast parts look OK. The castings from Laurie turned up. So now at least it can have a backhead and chimney. Plus a few other nice details. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 The detailing has begun. I have started with the pull push gear as one there is a lot of it and two its fairly large bits that will survive handling. The first thing to do was to study the instructions plans and photos to try and work out where all the pipes went and in which order would be best to do it. I decided it would be prudent to start with the tank front oilers as one is behind the regulator cylinder and linkage. Which was the next to be fitted. along with its pipe work. The handrail on this side also needed fitting so the pipes and the linkage to the throttle could be down without any trouble later. There is are whitemetal castings for the electrical control box and the auxiliary cylinder, these will be fitted once all the hot stuff is done. The boiler and smokebox are tubes of quite heavy gauge brass, so lots of heat is needed even for 145 solder. I don´t trust myself waving around the blow lamp and 100w iron. The clack valve was the last bit to be fitted in this sequence. The loose wire will go to the auxiliary cylinder once fitted. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 The next part is the air pump and it´s associated pipes. Again quite fiddly as the pump is three parts and quite hefty, soldering it to a smokebox that has almost 2.5mm wall was fun. the gas torch struggled. The pipe work in the end was quite simple but I had thought about the process first (not sure what has come over me, I normally just bumble through it). You will also see the handrail knob has appeared at the front of the pump too. I have a feeling all the castings from DJB are a little large as there seems to be a lack of space compared to the photos. I also got some nice castings from Laurie for the tank fillers but these are also too big, the tank top is not wide enough. Back to the white metal ones. Tank front handrail was the last of this sequence. Also needs a jolly good clean, Should of done that before the piccies but it was late last night. I fitted the two firebox valves hand wheel shafts will go in later at cab fitting time. The oiler, clack valve and tank front handrail were next. This side is quite easy. The other half of the main handrail was also fitted. But since fitting I think it is a little low. I will look at it again. I have a feeling the knobs need to be raised about a millimeter. There will be a lot of wires under the footplate to tidy up and solder once I take the block off. More soon, I feel we are getting somewhere now. soon be time for the paint shop at this rate. Then it will be interesting as it will also be lined. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted July 11, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 11, 2017 Really nice pipework Pete. I can see how the airpump would have been tricky! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 A very nicely detailed model. Shows lots of patience there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Excellent work Pete. I do like to see detailed pipework!! Regards, Deano Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 I was going to build it as a straight M7, but once started the kit is only designed for fitting PP gear. So the set of parts I was keeping for mine now have a different home. Laurie will get an order for a set once I'm ready. Not sure if it will be the M7 or O2 that will be used though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted July 12, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2017 I was going to build it as a straight M7, but once started the kit is only designed for fitting PP gear. So the set of parts I was keeping for mine now have a different home. Laurie will get an order for a set once I'm ready. Not sure if it will be the M7 or O2 that will be used though. It's worth pointing out, that towards the end of the M7's working life - several short frame (non-push-pull) M7's gained the longer push-pull frames, without the push-pull equipment above the running plate and in some cases the loco's number as well. 30667 is one that springs to mind. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 This one will be 30031 in lined black BR livery with second totem. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted July 12, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2017 This one will be 30031 in lined black BR livery with second totem. Built at Nine Elms as 31 in March 1898 as M7/1. Type M7/4 (long frame) from January 1961 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 A little more done, I am now onto details that were not in the kit, along with the last few that were. I fitted the chimney as it was the last heavy brass casting. I need to do a little filling as there is a nasty mold line on one side. Next up were the smokebox door dogs. these were again from Laurie, there were non in the kit or I had used them on another M7 build. I know I had used the chimney and backhead on it. The smoke box door is just place on, so I could get the dogs in the right place. After studying the photos there are two tubes that run along the hanging iron. One is an electrical conduit with two junction boxes. The other I presume is either steam heat, or vacuum. The later will go on later as it hangs below. But I did fit the conduit. And finally with the dome and roof almost in the resting in almost the right positions. I feel it is now taking on the feel of a M7. will soon be time to test it on the frames again, and find the centre of balance so weight can be added to the right places. At the moment it is slightly behind the drivers. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now