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Not for Peter, Pete's Workbench


N15class
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Really pi$$ed off at the minute. Just spent a hour or so fitting the drivers. Only to find the extended axles bought at guildex to replace the D type ones I dislike are bl@@dy S7 ones not 29.5 back to back. Now got to remove the wheels I have just pushed on using the vice. Hopefully they will remain intact and straight. Now will have to use the D type and hope the etched cranks work.

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I have got the footplate, frames, vallance and footsteps for the tender. This went together very well. I can't do the top as yet until I decide what number to build and whether it has a plain or riveted tender.

 

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I then went on to fitting the wheels which was a disaster. Afterfitting the old style axles the loco and tender where coupled to test the clearence before getting to far.

 

From here I started to detail the loco, I have started the firebox. Not got very far but it is astep in the right direction.

 

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The mojo is returning slowly so hopefully progress may speed up.

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We are getting some where now. After a few poor days which included replacing a few lights and putting in a new ventilator fan yesterday, I got a few straight hours at the bench today while they fitted an air con unit in my room. I think it was bought because SWMBO got fed up with medoing the lining at the dinning table.

 

So progredd to date, the brass work on the firebox is done. The bandcleats were fiddly to do, and wouldof been better as a brass casting.

 

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The cab roof was cleaned up reassembled and refitted. Along with the blanks for the cab specticle plate. The cab floor was ajusted and fitted, and the back head was also cut to fit, this will be detailed and painted before fitting.

 

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Finally the steps were added along with new cab hand rails. The smoke box and lamp irons are next, then that should be the end of the brass work and down to the whitemetal casting. I need to figure out how to fix the straps under the horn guides once painted, as they cannot be soldered on before or you will lock the frames in.

 

 

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Will be a short day again tomorrow as I have the weekly shop to do for the outlaws. But may have enough time to do the smokebox.

 

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Hi Pete, glad to hear the mojo is returning. Must be a bit hard to keep it going all the time with your intensive build schedule. The Dukedog looks good though, nice work on those boiler band cleats. This being GWR I assume it's for a customer - someone is lucky!

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Hi Pete, glad to hear the mojo is returning. Must be a bit hard to keep it going all the time with your intensive build schedule. The Dukedog looks good though, nice work on those boiler band cleats. This being GWR I assume it's for a customer - someone is lucky!

 

It was bought on speck. So is not for a customer but will be sold on completion. GWR locos seem to sell better than others. Which means I tend to build more of them. Next up is an exLSWR S15 so back on home turf for me.

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Got on OK again today, I have got the loco body almost to the position ready to add the whitemetal castings. Just a little more brass work to do.

 

I started by adding the boiler band cleats to the underside of the boiler, no photo as I forgot. 

 

Next I detailed the smokebox and front footplate. This was quicker than I thought, I alsoadded the chimney as it is easier to add the top lampiron after, does not fall off adding the chimney.

 

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Next was the handrail knobs, but not the boiler handrail. Thats tomorrows job. The boiler has etched holes for them but the smokebox needs marking and drilling for 2 each side. Also no hole in the cab front to take the end. The front foot step handrail was also fitted.

 

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I fitted the safety valve cover from L Griffins I had to make a block to fit within it to fix the valves to other wise they were out of sight in the bottom.

 

 

Just playing tacking some photos on the test track and came up with this. I will need to add a sky back scene but I will get some nice shots of finished locos.

 

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Last year I managed to pick up a set of nice etches for a GWR saint clas loco. No castings or tender except for tanks sides for a 3500 tender. I had in my stuff a set of parts for an old style cut out kit of a 3500 tender. So thought I could make something out of it to run behind the loco. Today I have received a Ebay buy of a slaters 3500 tender, including wheels and as I found out tonight a few castings for a firebox and smokebox, a pair of coplings and some cast splasher. I was unlucky and had to pay our 60% duty on it and even with postage from NZ , that said it still cost less than the kit from Slaters, So I am a happy bunny. Next when the Dukedog goes I will get the castings and loco wheels.

 

I like it when you take a chance and it all works out in the end. I had sort of put the Saint to the back of the list as it was going to be so bitsy. But now Itwill be an even race with the LMS Jubilee as to which will be after the LSWR S15.

 

 

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Edit

A closer look and the splashers look as though they belong to a Saint class. So I assume the loco springs in the box are also from the same.

Edited by N15class
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Last year I managed to pick up a set of nice etches for a GWR saint clas loco. No castings or tender except for tanks sides for a 3500 tender. I had in my stuff a set of parts for an old style cut out kit of a 3500 tender. So thought I could make something out of it to run behind the loco. Today I have received a Ebay buy of a slaters 3500 tender, including wheels and as I found out tonight a few castings for a firebox and smokebox, a pair of coplings and some cast splasher. I was unlucky and had to pay our 60% duty on it and even with postage from NZ , that said it still cost less than the kit from Slaters, So I am a happy bunny. Next when the Dukedog goes I will get the castings and loco wheels.

 

I like it when you take a chance and it all works out in the end. I had sort of put the Saint to the back of the list as it was going to be so bitsy. But now Itwill be an even race with the LMS Jubilee as to which will be after the LSWR S15.

 

 

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Edit

A closer look and the splashers look as though they belong to a Saint class. So I assume the loco springs in the box are also from the same.

60%!!!! Aargh!

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60%!!!! Aargh!

Yes it hurts. Thats why it has to be purchases under US$50 or it comes in my suitcase. But as this was bought in NZ it had international post already I could see no reason to sending it to the UK and then get my daughter to post a present to me. Books are free though.

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Got on OK again today, I have got the loco body almost to the position ready to add the whitemetal castings. Just a little more brass work to do.

 

I started by adding the boiler band cleats to the underside of the boiler, no photo as I forgot. 

 

Next I detailed the smokebox and front footplate. This was quicker than I thought, I alsoadded the chimney as it is easier to add the top lampiron after, does not fall off adding the chimney.

 

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Next was the handrail knobs, but not the boiler handrail. Thats tomorrows job. The boiler has etched holes for them but the smokebox needs marking and drilling for 2 each side. Also no hole in the cab front to take the end. The front foot step handrail was also fitted.

 

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I fitted the safety valve cover from L Griffins I had to make a block to fit within it to fix the valves to other wise they were out of sight in the bottom.

 

 

Just playing tacking some photos on the test track and came up with this. I will need to add a sky back scene but I will get some nice shots of finished locos.

 

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Looking great.  I could not find any info on positioning the cover plates on the smokeox lower sides so did my best from photos.  Think mine might be too far apart looking at yours.

 

I found my internal cab splashers were a fairly ordinary fit.

 

As regards the safety valve cover, the DA casting was good but I also found no way of positioning the valves. Blue tack to rescue.

 

Warren Shephard's option is superior as he has the internal base in brass with the two pillars positively locating into it.  The cover literally does that and sits over the top in prototypical fashion.  I used it on my Dean Goods to replace the fictional Zero Zephyr whitemetal effort.

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Looking great.  I could not find any info on positioning the cover plates on the smokeox lower sides so did my best from photos.  Think mine might be too far apart looking at yours.

 

I found my internal cab splashers were a fairly ordinary fit.

 

As regards the safety valve cover, the DA casting was good but I also found no way of positioning the valves. Blue tack to rescue.

 

Warren Shephard's option is superior as he has the internal base in brass with the two pillars positively locating into it.  The cover literally does that and sits over the top in prototypical fashion.  I used it on my Dean Goods to replace the fictional Zero Zephyr whitemetal effort.

Thanks.

I ma not sure if my smokebox covers are correct they are hard to see in photos. The safety valve with the kit was a lump of white metal, hense why I got a Griffin one, which I thought was a little lacking when it came to fitting the valves. I had to make a post to mount them on,

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Thanks.

I ma not sure if my smokebox covers are correct they are hard to see in photos. The safety valve with the kit was a lump of white metal, hense why I got a Griffin one, which I thought was a little lacking when it came to fitting the valves. I had to make a post to mount them on,

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Thanks.

I ma not sure if my smokebox covers are correct they are hard to see in photos. The safety valve with the kit was a lump of white metal, hense why I got a Griffin one, which I thought was a little lacking when it came to fitting the valves. I had to make a post to mount them on,

 

Two very different shaped castings there, are they supposed to be the same?

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I started the tender body today. I am pleased I picked the flush rivetted tender, as so far on this I have punched over 500 rivits.

 

The basic tank went together very well I had to aneal the sides to do the flare, the corners curved nicely.The only thing that was amiss were the twosupports that hold the rear of the tank top were not wide enough or like the exploded diagram, just a bit of filing to adjust them.

 

Also the coal raves have six rivets punched on them, but as I found out after fitting them they are on the inside not the outside. I will drill out and add wire ones. No I did not put them on the wrong side as the half etching for the beading is on the outside.

 

 

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The sand boxes and floor were added next. Along with the dividers and fire iron rack. The left hand sand box needed a bit ofwork to line upatthe front. The coal space dividers as usual needed the arc over the flares adjusting as usual, or was it my forming of the flare.

 

Yes I still need to do the corners of the flare. There are some cast ones I will check before removing the fingers. Then it I need to detail the tender rear with the steps and lamp irons. There is also the strio around the the base of the tank and to the footplate. I also noticed when packing up tonight there are two flanges to be added to the drop iron under the foortplate.

 

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It still fits nicely on the frames, and looks quite good with the loco.

 

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I am a little annoyed as I have no number platefor the loco, I thought I had enough of the DIY sets from Martin Finney but I only have plates for three digit numbers. Need to order soon otherwide I cant get it finished, I need some stores so would like it sold sooner than later.

 

 

 

 

 

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I suppose it was anther good sesion today, although it looks less today I actually spent longer at the bench.

 

I started wth the reinforcing strip around the base of the tank, then I did the beading. There was flat beading supplied in the kit, but I used 0,7mm soft wire. I prefer to use half round, this was not possible as there was a half etched groove were the beading needed to go. Still some cleaning up to do and maybe some adjustment. But that will come next session as I will be looking at it in a different light, not the euphoria of actually completing it.

 

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I added the rear steps and lamp irons. The vacuum pipe has been cleaned upready to fit.

 

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I also started to solder on the castings at the front. Also meant I had to take the floor off to fit the brake standard as it fitted under the floor. I left the taller more fradgile castings to nearer the end. The instructions say to fit two steps but I cannot see them in photos and the exploded diagram is less than helpful.

 

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Hoprfully next session may see this ready for the paint shop. It has been a nice build so far and the parts fit well with little fettling.

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The last bits of brass were soldered onto the front of the tender. I then started to add the white metal castings.

 

The first two pictures show the front handrails, fire iron hook and the hand wheels for the brakes are all there now, and a start was made with the castings. I think it is just the sand box fillers now. Only one hole for these though, so will drill the other when the time comes.

 

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The next two show the vacuum pipe and the dome, water filler cast are now on. You will also see I have not finished the brass, the rear corner handrails are missing. Thank goodness for for the photos showing up my errors.

 

 

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Nearly there, soon be timeto go back to the loco and do it's castings.

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I have finished the tender body and frames, the loco body has also been finished. I need to go back and do a little work on the frames there is a slight problem with the side beam mounts. I may also add some slide bars and cross heads just to fill a little of the space. I also need to sort out theoutside cranks. Do I try the onesin the kit or do lots of butchery to fit them.

 

 

A bit of picture overload today. The first show the front and rear of the tender. It now just needs a good clean up. I think I kept up with the solder cleaning but it willbe checked.

 

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Next comes the loco. I have to replace a couple of lampirons they did not survive an earlier scrub. I still need to ad the smokebox door, this will be glued in afterpainting I can then add some ballastbefore then. I have also cut a couple ofbits of lead to fit into thr firebox.

 

Still need todothe cab detail once I have fitted the parts that do notgo on the backhead, cleaning cab begin.

 

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Now a few just to show it off as a whole. The loco body is sitting low because the side beams are not attached. I think it has turned out ok. I still need to order the number plates. It will now be 9012 as the chimney and tender are right for this loco, it will be plain black  with the large early BR emblem on the tender.

 

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This is what was distracting me yesterday.

 

My next build I was not doing anything with it except planning what I was going to do. It is going to be a Urie loco with stepped footplate, number 30503. It will be good as it will be plain black and early BR emblem, also good is that at this time it did not have the U class which is not supplied in the kit and I have no idea where to get one.

 

I have decided I will start on the tender as that will be more or less as per the kit. We will see how many mods are needed to build it. In tandem I will build the footplate and the loco frames, to see what will fit and what may not be in the kit. I am already watching the footplate, as there is only one in the kit for use with both the early and later footplates.

 

Hopefully I won't get the urge to paint it in lined green livery and add it to my fleet, as the Urie version is the one I would like. Even if it would never fit the run round on Bodmin or the 50 foot table if I decide to go that way.

 

 

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Today I have been good I have been making outside cranks and modifying side beams but thats another story, hopefully I may have a Dukedog that will run tomorrow.

Edited by N15class
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I did make a start on the S15 only a bit of cutting out and rivetting nothing exciting. But only after getting the cranks done on the Dukedog.

 

I used the etched cranks in the end, I soldered the two halves together then drilled, tapped and countersunk them for the pins. My major concern has been getting them square to the axle, as they are not the tightest of fits. I came up with using a block of wood with a slot in it, this not only keeps them square but spaces them at the same time.

 

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The coupling rods where already made, and needed some fettling to get to tidy. 

 

Here is the loco with it's wagglers fitted. It need the smallest amount of tweaking to run smoothly.

 

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 I also added a strap to hold the motor. A very simple affair but I have found this system works well.

 

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Now I need to clean and prepare for painting. I may have to wait a week or so as the weather is a bit too bad at the moment. It is rainy season till March April time, but at the moment we are getting between 2 and 4 inches of rain a day. Not normally a problem as it comes in the afternoon evenings but for the last week or so ithas been at anytime, it can go from bright sunshine to black thunderstorm in a couple minutes. Thats enough geography for one day, Back to the point work for Bodmin for me.

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