Giles Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Perhaps, when I've learned how to drive the damn thing...... Thus far I've had no luck importing anything from autocad - it's going to be a hard learning curve. - but at least I know the hardwares's fine..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Perhaps, when I've learned how to drive the damn thing...... Thus far I've had no luck importing anything from autocad - it's going to be a hard learning curve. - but at least I know the hardwares's fine..... Are you exporting as a .dxf? Does Autocad have a .pdf export ability? If so give that a go if you haven't yet. I use Inkscape and if I export it from there in .dxf format I seem to get strange lines joining elements and some weird cutting paths generated inside Vector2D, but .pdf and .eps on a whole are usually good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Are you exporting as a .dxf? Does Autocad have a .pdf export ability? If so give that a go if you haven't yet. I use Inkscape and if I export it from there in .dxf format I seem to get strange lines joining elements and some weird cutting paths generated inside Vector2D, but .pdf and .eps on a whole are usually good. DXF exports from Inkscape to import into Silhouette Studio for my Portrait cutter produced strange lines etc to start with. I had to change some of the export settings to get it to work. Maybe you have the same problem. These are the setting I use, so may be worth trying. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Another thing I do is to select all objects in Inkscape and go to Path > Object to Path, before exporting. Then in Studio I select all objects and go to Object > Release Compound Path. I think this was also related to the problems with unwanted cutting lines appearing, and other annoying things I've now forgotten. I've not seen Vector2D, so don't know if it has a similar option. I'll carry on with my Silhouette for the foreseeable future, by which time all of you will have perfected use of the Emblazer! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted March 9, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 9, 2016 Been playing and learning the software I can now import a dxf and I'm slowly learning how to print the layers Thoroughly impressed with the clean cuts it can make compared to a Robo. Only now how to put it ll together into something useful Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrushType4 Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Will any of you newly tooled-up laserites be taking any orders for commissioned work, perhaps ? Yes! How can I help?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 10, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 10, 2016 Yes! How can I help?! Thanks ! Will PM later with details. Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium eldavo Posted March 10, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 10, 2016 It's worth checking what DXF file format each of your bits of software use. There are multiple revisions of DXF and some of the software out there only supports older versions of DXF. Inkscape certainly outputs in a later version that some laser cutting software doesn't handle correctly. Cheers Dave 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Thank you Gents - DXF 2004 certainly does the trick! I imported a bit of brickwork with no trouble, didn't quite realise I had to select it a 'vectors', but did that eventually,then had a go at engraving (2mm MDF) the slight bit on the left you can see was too much - 5mm/sec at 100% , and very nearly burnt through (there are scorch marks on the other side) the one you can see all of is 10mm/sec at 100%, and is perhaps still a little deep..... (This is a 4W laser) I'm chuffed. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted March 11, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 11, 2016 I finally had a chance to play after Mrs B and this is what I've come up with the window frames are only 0.2mm and it was cut from nasty card from the back of a note pad all very encouraging 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamsRadial Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 That looks very like a Colonel Stephens East Kent Light Railway hut I'm watching this thread with interest because I have a MakeBlock XY Plotter which currently has a 500mW diode, but I have the parts to fit a 1.8W diode to it. Like the OP, I started with a Craft Robo, and got tired of having to stick the work to a carrier sheet, and also problems with it being flexed as it was shuffled to and fro. However, the kerf on the laser I currently use is nearly half a mm (0.452), and I am contemplating using a Craft Robo knife as the cutter for card and styrene sheet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted March 11, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) That looks very like a Colonel Stephens East Kent Light Railway hut I'm watching this thread with interest because I have a MakeBlock XY Plotter which currently has a 500mW diode, but I have the parts to fit a 1.8W diode to it. Like the OP, I started with a Craft Robo, and got tired of having to stick the work to a carrier sheet, and also problems with it being flexed as it was shuffled to and fro. However, the kerf on the laser I currently use is nearly half a mm (0.452), and I am contemplating using a Craft Robo knife as the cutter for card and styrene sheet. well spotted and pleased I appear to have the appearance and look I sort. The Colonels railways in 2mm is a challenge although I find now getting out of bed in the morning a equal challenge I now have lots of ideas just unsure if my abilities can match them edited for cr@p spelling Edited March 11, 2016 by nick_bastable 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamsRadial Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 (edited) My sig picture is a screenshot of an MSTS route I built back in 2008, it shows a view out of a coach across to the cluster of water towers at Shepherdswell with an Adams Radial tank standing in front of them, where it seemed to spend all it's life. 2mm FS is indeed a challenge, I'm not sure my fingers could manage stuff that small, let alone my eyes, but with things like these laser cutters and plotters it's becoming more of a possibility. What I am also working on is how to use the plotter with some Rotring-type pens to make my own lining transfers. Once you have a mechanism that can accept GCode or SVG instructions, there's quite a few things that could be stuck on the carriage apart from a laser. EDM is a possibility. Possibly drawing lines of solder-paint onto tinplate or brass. Blobbing tiny spots of glue for rivets, and maybe using a 3D-printer hot-end to blob bits of plastic down for rivet heads? Edited March 12, 2016 by AdamsRadial Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
teetrix Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 (edited) Thanks for this review and the whole thread! I'm in designing kits for lasercutting for several years, but used professional partners because I couldn't afford a laser for myself ...yet Some ideas, thougts, hints, corrections etc... (below here will appear a random picture - I don't know why, and I cant get rid of it!) It's the structure of the wood. There are harder and softer parts in the wood, some absorb more energie as the other and burns darker. To get rid of this, use MDF or wood with only little grain. While styrene isn't recommended for lasercutting, PVC/polyvinyl chloride/Vinyl is even much worse. During lasercutting it produces hydrochlorid acid, which is a) not really healthy and b ) destroys your machine through corrosion. I wouldn't even try it. And, btw: Trotec is an austrian company, not an american. Maybe relevant for shipping and custom costs etc. But even their entry level laser is a good bit over 10.000 Euros anyway, IIRC. Michael Edited March 12, 2016 by teetrix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted March 12, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 12, 2016 ]Part of the same file cut in 0.8mm plywood, windows where too delicate to work, I think I will use thin card as window frames in future 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 You've been getting along faster than I have - nonetheless, I've managed to etch and cut (in a combined process) a bit of brickwork, which pleases me. The joint is suffering from an excess of glue- but the principle is there. This is 2mm MDF, cutting through on 6 passes, and etching on a single pass. There is some charring on the brick ends with the cutting, which I suppose is not surprising. I suspect I shall never buy any more embossed plasticard brick....! 7mm scale 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 13, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2016 I found your thread only an hour ago, and I'm now well past bed time, but this was just too riveting to put down. I think that once I have funds available, this would be the next step up. Thank you Jason 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PhilH Posted March 13, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2016 In a non commercial hobby only environment what would the life expectancy of the laser bit be? Do they 'wear out' after time? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 I think if you run them at 100% of their rated capacity, it's something like 2500 hours, however - like all these things, if you under run them, the last much longer. Although I have a 4w diode laser, the board can't actually supply it's full capacity, therefore it's always slightly under-run (even when programmed to run at '100%'). I'm there fore hoping it will last a good long while..... (As if 2500 hours isn't quite a long time...) The laser units are also available as spares. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 In a non commercial hobby only environment what would the life expectancy of the laser bit be? Do they 'wear out' after time? The Darkly LAbs forum have people who have 3Watt lasers (the 4W has only been available since around August) and even 'overclocking' them as some users do in order to cut thicker materials, I haven't come across any mention of a laser wearing out yet, even amongst those users who use it in a professional capacity (engraving cutting boards and giftware for example) so I imagine they'll last a while. Putting that into context though, when I was playing with the Silver bullet cutter I blunted 3 blades (at AU $25.00 each) in around 10 hours of trying to cut different materials. In addition the cutting matt would need replacing or the stickiness renewing periodically (mats are $22 a pop, the renew 'sticky' sheets are $30 per pack of 5), so I'm fairly sure that in the same time period that would all add up to a greater expense than replacing a laser - even at 2000 hours (AU $280) Personally I reckon the drive belts will go before the laser does.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 14, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 14, 2016 Gosh, I've been following these machines for years, but they have always been too expensive. Well, it seems my birthday has arrived early - helped by the fact that I have a somewhat plausible business proposition. First thing in the morning I'll be putting in the order for a 4W, A4 machine. (I'm guessing I don't need one bigger) I'll keep the Silhouette though for styrene, at least for a while. It will be interesting to see if the settings you use can be transferred to other people's laser cutters. I know this didn't happen with my Silhouette Cameo compared with others' machines. Thanks again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) Welcome aboard Jason! Sorry, just a little bit more show and tell - Two or three hours with Inkscape on my laptop while catching up with season 2 of "Better Call Saul', then printed out in 10 layers on 'newsagent grade' cardboard (ie the cheap A1 size cardboard sheets usually used for school projects and garage sale signs) 75% power, 15mm sec. Again, they aren't yet glued together - just plonked on top of each other so the alignment is a little out, plus there are still one or two bits of waste to clean out that I missed in real life but the camera homes in on. This is exactly the kind of thing I hoped I'd be able to do with the Silver Bullet cutter, but the limitations of a physical blade with an angled cutting edge let me down but the Emblaser with its tiny kerf and straight up and down cutting action (ignoring the need to wear orange glasses) is up to the task. Now I need to find a use for this - is anyone building a cathedral? Edited March 14, 2016 by monkeysarefun 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) At the risk of you all thinking "noooo not more pictures from monkeysarefun! : " , (but at least there aren;t spiders in them!) can I just put this out there?. This is the top layer of the window in the last post, just to give an indication of how fine you can do stuff once you get the settings exactly right. That bit is the trick.... Edited March 14, 2016 by monkeysarefun 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 14, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 14, 2016 I'll tell you who would be interested, Allan Downes. He built a very impressive cathedral some time ago. I've a quick question if I can. I've a thought of cutting the brick top surface of a platform in card, the platform is 3' long. Is it possible to cut some bricks, move the card along, then cut some more, of is it strictly a case of A4 sheets and butt join them together on the model? Hmm, thinking on, if this is the case, I could make them interlocking. That would also help hide the join. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 I'll tell you who would be interested, Allan Downes. He built a very impressive cathedral some time ago. I've a quick question if I can. I've a thought of cutting the brick top surface of a platform in card, the platform is 3' long. Is it possible to cut some bricks, move the card along, then cut some more, of is it strictly a case of A4 sheets and butt join them together on the model? Hmm, thinking on, if this is the case, I could make them interlocking. That would also help hide the join. Giles is our brick expert in this thread - he'll have the answers. I'm gothic windows and spiders. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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