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Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins


Corbs
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I've gradually come to realise that all my best ideas have already been thought of by twenty other people before me!

K

Cf Winston Churchill "the good ideas are not new, and the new ideas are not good"

 

I've always felt that the true definition of a good idea, is that when you see it, you can't understand why you didn't think of it before

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Snip<. What I never really tackled were the eight million tiny bits of white metal that, in the hands of a genius, produced an entire groudle glen loco and train ...... and, think how small those locos are!

 

I was always in awe of Brian's talents, artistic and modelling-wise, and he was 'way out there' in pursuing sub-2ft gauge subjects in 4mm scale.

 

K

 

 I didn't know about the GGR kits - got any more info?  Being as my Sundays are mostly spent....

 

post-10195-0-42284200-1489595173_thumb.jpg

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Aha! Brilliant railway. Haven't visited for years, but firmly intend to get to the electric 125th next years, so .......

 

The kit built one loco and, iirc, three coaches, to form one of the original trains. The loco used, again iirc, it was a blooming long time ago, a joe works chassis, designed as an 0-6-0, but employing only the two rear axles, to get the very short wheelbase. (Although it might have had a Brian-style chassis). It was all white-metal.

 

If I look in the bottom of my bits tray, I've probably got odd components left, because, as I confessed above, while I conquered the loco, the coaches were beyond me. What I should have done was to replace most of the stupidly tiny bits with brass wire, which must have been how the masters were made.

 

What we need here are old 009 News with the ads in, or one of Brian's marvellous catalogues, full of whimsical little drawings.

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More puggery, and another photo from Ted's website, although this was a visiting engine to the C&D, 0-4-0STT 'Jordan', built by Mick Thornton for his Mull and Iona Railway

http://www.009dutch.nl/cdr/main/pages/evisitors.htm

 

42.jpg

 

Another view here:

https://get.google.com/albumarchive/112461785190797901174/album/AF1QipMHaXhu6C8SREm6dsvju6sEA77h3tPPuYzaf3W4/AF1QipMFQU4yHMuVRfc-ly-C-lN2l322u2pj_MizB7S8

post-898-0-10979000-1489657124.jpg

Edited by Corbs
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Got bored yesterday and had a look at what my pug kits would look like as a Double-Fairlie. I doubt very much that this will get made, not least because I can't see how I would get an articulated chassis under them but I though I would show how it would look anyway.

 

post-22762-0-51584500-1489662279_thumb.jpg

 

I think I will be building something similar to that suggested by Nearholmer in post #110 with a Farish 08 chassis.

 

Gary

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This is useful to understand how a Double Fairlie works.

post-7091-0-35427400-1489663783.jpg

 

 

The front of the footplate is on the bogie on this one, and the smokebox overhangs it, with some sort of moveable connection to the cylinders. Not all of them had the footplate like this. Some had the whole footplate attached to the body, with the bufferbeam fixed to the bogie.

post-7091-0-77724600-1489663810.jpg

 

Not sure how I'm going to do this yet, but I think it has lots of potential. Only one chassis needs to be powered, but pivoting them will be interesting!

post-7091-0-08606600-1489663751.jpg

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You can do it with two mechanisms if you pivot them where the green arrows are, and make sure there is no fixed mount where the red lines are. As per the prototype if you have a flat bearing surface under the smokebox you should be ok? The important thing is for the power bogies to be able to swivel.

 

post-898-0-36960100-1489673816.jpg

 

You might want to cut the bufferbeams off and mount them on to the power bogies?

Edited by Corbs
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the pivots should be in the middle of the wheel bases, as Northroader said you can put in the fairlie joined double firebox, but you can also leave it as is because when Yorkshire engine Co of Sheffield built some Double fairlies they were 2 seperate regular loco fireboxes. the pivot points in green and the lowere halve of the fireboxes should stick out of the gap between the bogies

post-9948-0-25854500-1489679991.jpg

 

here a pic of a ffestiniog fairlie bogie

post-9948-0-57256400-1489680072.jpg

 

a pic of a ffestiniog boiler pair sat on temporary bogies

post-9948-0-89683700-1489680234.jpg

 

 

 

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I understand on a real one the pivot is in the middle :) , I was just going off an easy way to mount the Hornby mechanisms as then you only need a single screw or bolt in a mounting hole, which may be easier than trying to mount it in the middle?

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You can do it with two mechanisms if you pivot them where the green arrows are, and make sure there is no fixed mount where the red lines are. As per the prototype if you have a flat bearing surface under the smokebox you should be ok? The important thing is for the power bogies to be able to swivel.

 

attachicon.giffairliepivot.jpg

 

You might want to cut the bufferbeams off and mount them on to the power bogies?

I'd be inclined to put the pivots just inboard of the cylinders. The throw-over on curves should be much less obtrusive in the middle of the loco than it would be at the ends, especially with a nice chunky ashpan added. 

 

John

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a late friend solved it with his 7mm Ffestiniog fairlie model, it wasnt on the same Hornby chassis' but a proper FR bogie, the idea is the same. He had a frame work to place the pivot above the motor and a frame made out of a length of meccano to join the two pivots and to sit the body on

post-9948-0-30042100-1489683799_thumb.jpg

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Thanks. Some useful suggestions, and the Ffestiniog photos are helpful. I think the bogie pivots need to be somewhere around the middle of each bogie to avoid a big overhang. I'm inclined to put the buffer beams on the bogies, as it looks easier, which will probably raise the body a bit. As I said, I'll probably only have a motor on one bogie, so the unpowered one should be easy to pivot. The problem will be that the chassis is a tight fit in the smokebox and front of the boiler, so will need major surgery. I may well fit a different motor and gears to slow it down, and have new cylinders and connecting rods to alter and make fit. So I think the body will be quite straightforward, and the chassis less so. I'm intending to put a double firebox in the cab.

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A neat solution to the 202 Fairlie could be audio plugs and sockets in the smokebox space at each end.  It would provide a fairlie (sorry) strong pivot and allow you to electrically join the two power units.

 

This is my 0 gauge effort.

 

post-8493-0-88720100-1355044668.jpg

 

post-8493-0-44264200-1355045265.jpg

post-8493-0-53277100-1387237690.jpg

 

Unfortunately it didn't end up with very much Pug content and when I get round to making a better chassis it won't have any.

 

This still contains a lot of Triang

 

post-8493-0-07195900-1359159208.jpg

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G'day Gents

 

Here's a few more loco's made out of Hornby 0-6-0's. The G5 started out as a Jinty, I cut the front wheel set off and using parts of a mainline J72 and a Thomas I ended up with the G5.

The J15, started life as a J52, after cutting most of the body work off, it was a case of rebuilding almost everything except the running plate and smokebox, a cut down B12 tender finished the engine off.

The J19 is now 45 years old and my first bodge up, a B12 body was cut down and fitted to a Jinty chassis, a B12 tender finished the job.

 

manna

 

 

 

DSCF0024.JPG

DSCF0052.JPG

DSCF0206.JPG

LNER J19.JPG

Edited by manna
Replacing content, plus an extra one.
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I've mentioned before an article in a late 60s RM discussing 3mm scale narrow gauge. One of the locos shown used an Airfix Pug boile and tank assembly, with a scaled down cab and mounted on a Minitrix (I think; there wasn't much else around at the time and I don't think it was an Arnold one) 0-6-0 chassis to create a massive but strangely appealing SortaPeckett.

 

I think there was a recabbed Continental 0-6-0 of some kind, and there might have been a diesel too, but the steroidal Pug was what stuck in my mind.

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I'm certain that there is a thread somewhere, on one or other forum, about exactly that - a Harrogate Peckett constructed from an Airfix Pug and a Farish 08 chassis? Very effective, from what I recall?

Iv done thr Harrogate Peckett fron an RT Models kit but there are models out there of pug bashed ones. RT models sells the valve gear to convert the 08 chassis separately so should be a fairly easy job to do a nice 009 bash now

Hope this helps

James

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