LNWR London Road - Locomotives and rolling stock

[Jol Wilkinson]

The frames are now in primer as shown, before getting a coat of rattle can black. The "EM" spacer between the firebox ash-pan sides will provide a support for the "under-slung" motor which drives the rear coupled axle. Although not a complex build there is quite a lot of detail to add, which will be even more apparent on the body.

I've started on the body, so more photos soon (weather permitting, it's a bit cool in the workshop).

[Jol Wilkinson]

A bit more progress. I've soldered up the boiler with the smokebox former and the firebox former at the rear (a semi circle with screw mounting hole. 

After the valances under the running plate, the tank connecting trunks  go on next followed by the rear spectacle plate and bunker sides to which the small details have already been added. The coal bunker, bunker top and rear plate go on next. The side tanks will go on next and the front spectacle plate sits on those.

 

[Worsdell forever]

Will the boiler/firebox be permanently bolted to the cab or just slotted on, I used a similar arrangement on my 1001 as the only way to get the body off is to separate boiler and footplate, it was also very useful in lining the boiler.

 

Anyway, it's looking good.

[Jol Wilkinson]

17 minutes ago, Worsdell forever said:

Will the boiler/firebox be permanently bolted to the cab or just slotted on, I used a similar arrangement on my 1001 as the only way to get the body off is to separate boiler and footplate, it was also very useful in lining the boiler.

 

Anyway, it's looking good.

Hi Paul,

 

thanks.

 

The kit is designed so that the boiler can be bolted in place, through the rear firebox former and into the bottom of the smokebox.. Normally with a tender loco I would use a screw through the spectacle plate into a nut soldered inside the boiler rear former. I then glue in the cast back plate with a soluble glue like Hypo Cement from Wizard/51L. With the tank loco, the boiler fits onto the screw soldered into the front spectacle plate and you have to put the nut on from the inside of the boiler. A bit of a fiddle but worth it so you can get paint and line the boiler before fitting.

 

Jol

[Jol Wilkinson]

A bit more progress! The side tanks and front spectacle plate now fitted.

 

The rear spectacle plate/bunker detail can be seen in the first photo. The fitting below and to the right of the bunker access door is the cover over the handbrake drive shaft.

 

Without the boiler in place, the second photo shows the shape of the top of the tanks, with the higher centre section. The condensing pipes (on those locos so fitted) entered through the plate  above the sandbox fillers at the front of the tank. Presumably the tank shape reflects this as none of the other LNWR tanks were like this. The kit has cover plates for both options but I have modelled this as the non condensing version.

 

Next job will be to fit the smokebox wrappers, etc. to the boiler.

 

 

 

 

[hayfield]

Jol

 

Looking very nice and as expected a very neat and tidy piece of soldering

Edited February 8, 2019 by hayfield

[Jol Wilkinson]

Thanks John,

 

I find N/S is easier to solder than brass and being the same "colour" excess solder is less easy to spot. I use LRM 145 solder which flows very well and LRM 12% Phosphoric acid flux, with an Antex 50W soldering station and a prototype LRM RSU (still going strong after twenty plus years).

 

The other very useful tools I have are a set of solder scrapers given to me by that wonderful model builder, the late John Hayes. They are ideal for removing even the smallest amounts of excess solder from corner joints, etc.

 

Jol

[polybear]

Do you think you could post a photo of your solder scrapers please Jol?

 

Brian

[Guest]

Yes I’d like to see what they look like as well. 

[Jol Wilkinson]

These are the John Hayes scrapers (blue) and etch kit tag chisel (yellow).  John ground them from old hacksaw blades.

 

It's important in the case of the chisel to have the striking end  where the hole as the bit you hit, as it resists shattering.

 

The working edges of the scrapers are in the fully tempered and harder toothed section. The scrapers are left and right handed for working in different directions. These are now over thirty years old and only require occasional dressing to keep a sharp edge.  The long scrapers measure about 3 1/2".

 

The tag chisel is a really good tool. Used with a 2 oz. hammer on a Formica faced chipboard work plate, you can cut through the tags very close to the part leaving the absolute minimum of filing to get a smooth edge.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 8, 2019 by Jol Wilkinson
Edited text to make more sense!

[Jol Wilkinson]

Meanwhile, on the 2-4-2T, I've added the smokebox inner wrapper and the smokebox support as well as adding the valve cover overlays to the smokebox front which goes on next. The boiler is fitted into the body to check the alignment and clearances.

 

[Jol Wilkinson]

Outer smokebox wrapper now in place. This has been the only tricky part of the build and everything else should be straightforward. At least it was when I built the various design tests! I annealed the wrapper to make it easier to form, cleaned and tinned the inside and used the RSU to fix it in place. Annealing discolours the N/S so I finally buffed it with a steel wire brush in my Minicraft drill.

 

[Jol Wilkinson]

A bit more progress on the 4' 6" Radial Tank.

 

Boiler handrails, etc. fitted. LH tank capping strip added. The other boiler fittings and the smokebox door have been fettled and will be glued in place with Epoxy adhesive alter.

 

[Jol Wilkinson]

Motor, etc. fitted to frames and running in on rolling road . Pickups by pb wire with brass pads soldered on to run on rear of tyre. Note current draw of only 20mA.

 

Front buffer beam and fittings attached together with front "cosmetic" frames. These are at correct width but the front radial truck axle can move "inside" these. The tank and bunker capping strips have also been added.

 

Is there a way to insert photos within text or add captions. I haven't found how to do that with the new forum software.

 

 

[Dave Holt]

Jol,

When you select the photos to attach, they appear in a table which has a column for a description, or similar. Whatever you type in the box will appear as a caption below the photo when you insert it into the post. At least, that's how I think it works, but could be confusing it with another modelling forum!

You can place a photo anywhere where the cursor is within the text. I always place them between paragraphs but there's no reason the photo can't be in the middle of a sentence or paragraph, if that's what you want.

Dave.

Edited February 24, 2019 by Dave Holt

[Dave Holt]

6 minutes ago, Dave Holt said:

Jol,

When you select the photos to attach, they appear in a table which has a column for a description, or similar. Whatever you type in the box will appear as a caption below the photo when you insert it into the post. At least, that's how I think it works, but could be confusing it with another modelling forum!

You can place a photo anywhere where the cursor is within the text. I always place them between paragraphs but there's no reason the photo can't be in the middle of a sentence or paragraph, if that's what you want.

Dave.

Jol,

I think I've got this completely wrong, so please ignore my previous comment.

Dave.

[Jol Wilkinson]

Hi Dave,

 

thanks for giving it some thought. Looking at other threads I think it's how the new software works and doesn't allow for "split"  text and photos.

 

Jol

[Worsdell forever]

Photos can be put anywhere, upload your photos and write your text, all or part of it then leave say, a couple or three lines.

 

[Then click on this line and leave the cursor.]

 

Next click on the + on the photo and it should land where the cursor was, you then need to scroll down to continue typing or adding more photos.

[Jol Wilkinson]

3 hours ago, Worsdell forever said:

Photos can be put anywhere, upload your photos and write your text, all or part of it then leave say, a couple or three lines.

 

[Then click on this line and leave the cursor.]

 

Next click on the + on the photo and it should land where the cursor was, you then need to scroll down to continue typing or adding more photos.

Thanks Paul,

 

I'll try that.

 

Jol

[Jub45565]

Only just noticed this one Jol, I'll be paying attention as there is one in my queue.  What would you say is the best reference material for photos of the class and underframe detailing? (generally being a Midland or Grouping+ modeller, though I have the Jenkinson LMS book which covers the LNW constituents, am aware of the Barry Lane book but don't yet have it in my library).

[Jol Wilkinson]

5 hours ago, Jub45565 said:

Only just noticed this one Jol, I'll be paying attention as there is one in my queue.  What would you say is the best reference material for photos of the class and underframe detailing? (generally being a Midland or Grouping+ modeller, though I have the Jenkinson LMS book which covers the LNW constituents, am aware of the Barry Lane book but don't yet have it in my library).

Hello Pete,

 

I tend to refer to Talbot's book and also Locomotives Illustrated where one exists for a particular class (#147 for the LNWR Passenger Tanks). I've also got Yeadon's  two Compendiums of LNWR Locomotives as well as an Illustrated History of LMS Locos Vol 2 by Essery and Jenkinson. Yeadon has some good photos for the LMS period so, although too late for me, some of the locos changed very little and it is possible to see more detail than in earlier photos. Jack Nelson's LNWR Portrayed has some useful detail drawings and information. The other photo source is the LNWR Society and the various photo suppliers who attend shows, such as Roger Carpenter.

 

Which book by Barry Lane do you have in mind? I only know of his L&Y titles.

 

The kit includes most of the normally visible bits underneath (taken from the GA) although I had to make some compromises with the brake operating gear to clear the motor installation I prefer to use. As my locos and stock are "layout " models, I don't get too exercised about the stuff that isn't readily visible if it isn't practical to readily model it.

 

Jol

[rowanj]

Lovely work, Jol, ..those scrapers look much better than those I bought a few years ago.

I laughed (at myself) about the way to post photos in text,as I'd been puzzling it out too. The way the thread works is just the conventional way to put pics into text documents, yet it seemed as if I'd cracked a mystery of the universe when I worked it out. It's an age thing...

John.

[Jub45565]

Hi Jol,

 

Sorry - complete brain lapse yesterday! It is the L&Y 2-4-2T I have in the queue, but this will still therefore be of specific interest watching the radial trucks come together.

 

LNW wise there are a few motor fitted diagrams on my agenda, some of which are covered by LRM offerings, which is probably where my mind got mixed up.

[Jol Wilkinson]

I've done some more work on the 2-4-2T, but it is now back in its box while I assemble the test etch for the LNWR 45ft Family Saloon designed for London Road Models. This will use the existing LRM 45ft LNWR underframe with a profiled wooden roof.

 

 

I've also been cleaning up the original terminus end baseboard for London Road for photography ahead of displaying it at a small event later this year.

 

 

Edited March 2, 2019 by Jol Wilkinson

[Jol Wilkinson]

Well, the LNWR 45ft Family Saloon and the LNWR "sprung" gangway" have been test built, errors identified and the artwork corrected. I am now waiting for a sample roof section to try for size  with the Family Saloon.

 

So back to the LNWR 2-4-2T. The "body" is now finished as the photos show. The cab roof isn't yet fixed but will be soldered in place after the final cleanup prior to painting. The boiler back-head and crew can be manoeuvred into place through a cut out in the cab floor.

 

The tool boxes and water filler will be fitted after painting.

 

 

 

 

 

The frames/chassis need the brake gear adding next, the radial trucks fitting and then it will go into the "waiting to be painted" box. 

 

I'll probably then make a start on the Worsley Works WCJS 42 ft Diagram W71. This will be something of a "bitza", WW sides/ends, LRM underframe, Brassmasters compensated bogies (I need to check which cast/moulded  bogie "sides"  are correct), LRM gangway, LRM foof fittings, AGW buffers. That's the plan, anyway.