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Trelothen - a Cornish fishing harbour


Stubby47
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13 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

 

Hi Jay, that's part of the planned fettling process. I've not yet glued the pivot hole plates in place.

Hi Stu,

We have installed Cobalts on the club layout, the pivot hole plates are an interference fit and don't need to be glued, this allows subsequent adjustment and re-use as well.

 

Regards

 

Steve

 

 

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I noticed a couple moving when testing.

 

Meanwhile, the track & uncoupler cable has been made, the baseboard 9 -pin socket wired up and the Gaugemaster Walkkabout controller plugged in.

And of course it was reversely wired. So that got changed and retested.

 

I have enough rail beyond the brass screws to fit fishplates at the edge of the board , so I can add a temporary headshunt/ mainline track to enable testing once the board is turned around. 

 

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7 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

The Cobalts are the Omega variety, as I don't need the additional complexity of the DCC ones.

 

These were the initial motors I used many moons ago and I seem to remember having similar problems with them. 

Also there was a batch i had that had a basic design flaw in the casing which was later rectified in their production.

At the time I did contact DCCconcepts ( when they were based in a land Down Under ) and a quick response confirmed there was a problem. They very kindly sent me some replacements at the time.

 

Perhaps it's worth giving the UK based office a call to ask about your problem and how / if it can be rectified, I've always found them to be very helpful, it could save you lots of aggravation and head scratching time.......or just go down the pub ! 

 

G

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Both fitted electro magnets are now wired in to switches in the panel.

 

And it all works !

 

So the baseboard has been turned round to the correct orientation and detailed testing can commence. 

 

More locos and wagons are needed to be fetched from storage, but these need to be fettled to ensure the couplings are exactly right.

 

But overall, very happy.

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I tend to agree with Grahame give them a ring.  I think the buzing could be due to a ripple on the supply. I would be inclined to try one with a 9v battery and see it there is no buzzing. A car battery could be for testing instead. If it still buzz on a smooth supply then it is the Cobalt causing the ripple. If it is the supply you can try an electrolytic capacitor across the supply but do check the voltage the capacitor will charge to the maximum of any ripple.

Alternatively you could use a voltage regulator I may have a 7812 12v one somewhere.

 

Don

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Thanks Don, I now have a voltage regulator fitted.

The noise is mostly reduced ( or I'm getting used to it), plus I'm sure the loudness on the video was because the phone was perched on the board.

 

As I start to add some ground cover and buildings, the drum effect of the baseboard over the ft square sections should also reduce.

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2 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

I now have a voltage regulator fitted.

 

Standin' WELL BACK...... just incase of course !

 

Nah ! I'm sure it'll all be fine :D

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7 hours ago, bgman said:

 

These were the initial motors I used many moons ago and I seem to remember having similar problems with them. 

Also there was a batch i had that had a basic design flaw in the casing which was later rectified in their production.

At the time I did contact DCCconcepts ( when they were based in a land Down Under ) and a quick response confirmed there was a problem. They very kindly sent me some replacements at the time.

 

Perhaps it's worth giving the UK based office a call to ask about your problem and how / if it can be rectified, I've always found them to be very helpful, it could save you lots of aggravation and head scratching time.......or just go down the pub ! 

 

G

 

We had some from that batch on Black Country Blues. They merrily buzzed and hummed to themselves. I think in the end they either got replaced or Geoff came up with a solution electronically - solution may have involved lowering the voltage. Either way the buzzing ended. 

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1 hour ago, Keith Addenbrooke said:

 

As long as he doesn’t watch to the very end of the video…

 

That end of the board has a cardboard box with soft rubbish in below, rather than the long drop to the concrete. I will be adding a temp headhunt on there, prior to making up Board #2.

Just got to dig out the metal board locating dowels from wherever I've put them. I know they are in an old, yellow, margarine tub...

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I spent some time 'testing' again this evening.

I've laid the rest of the front line towards Board #2 for the factory line, and the goods shed siding.

Haven't as yet added the track feeds or uncouplers.

 

I also tried to solder a short length of iron wire onto Bachmann coupling, without much success.

I seemed to not be able to get enough heat without melting the plastic before the solder would flow.

I might return using Expoxy glue instead.

 

I also need to create a repeatable profile for the iron wire, as some shapes work better than others.

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10 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

I also tried to solder a short length of iron wire onto Bachmann coupling, without much success.

I seemed to not be able to get enough heat without melting the plastic before the solder would flow.

I might return using Expoxy glue instead.

 

Me too!

 

I found the Gorilla superglue gel worked best.

 

Al.

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Thanks Al, I will try that. I've tried superglues before without much success, but not tried that particular brand.

 

I'm also partly thinking about Spratt & Winkles ( I 've had a fret for about 15 years) and have even considered @treggyman's idea of home made couplings.

 

All would work with the same magnets (I think the permanent ones would be ok when pulling stock over).

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Been to Camborne to a craftsman who has laser-cut some building panels for me, also went to  KMRC, bought some more track and fishplates, even bought some diesel fuel from Tesco (£1.35/ltr ! ), but forgot the flippin' Gorilla glue !!

 

Still, I need to fully dismantle T-CATs now, so I can build Board #2, and as No.3  son is home from duties at Devonport he can help...

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I've also added two of the remaining permanent magnets, one in each of the fish Dock and goods shed sidings.

 

I need to position the electro magnet on the goods shed headshunt / factory feeder line, so that wagons left there leave enough room to access the shed. As seen above, the switch for this is already in place.

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All magnets are now in place, the track is stuck down, the last two track feeds are in place and the wiring has been tidied up.

 

I have a temporary board alongside Board #1 which enables the main line & factory lines have extensions, so I can now carry out extensive testing.

 

And it's fun !!

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Testing over several short sessions has proved the concept as a whole works fine. There are sufficient uncouplers, and the mix of electro and permanent enables suitable handling of freight movements.

 

One or two wagons need further refinement, in that they are using incompatible loops (Mainline) for the Bachmann hooks, but generally all is meeting expectations. 

 

The choice of testing locos (Pecket B4 or Class 22) both work with the uncoupler positions.

 

So, next will be track painting & ballasting, although some sections of track will either be inlaid or just buried in accumulated dirt. 

 

Goods shed:

1666830499_20210905_1733312.jpg.995b2cd238ea12d615f59201ae0af606.jpg

 

Fish dock:

623406246_20210905_1733432.jpg.d9058bb16ed572b321b20dd309913eee.jpg

 

Headshunt, just clear of the road:

201796471_20210905_1735022.jpg.aa0e5cf2214c3aa3064579ed5fb19ac2.jpg

 

Oil depot:

677685281_20210905_1735102.jpg.646016bc8fd7bf244a9caa15d31c713e.jpg

 

General siding and line to factory:

2088055331_20210905_1735172.jpg.c1c25812cb5035b23013eba1eec2c284.jpg

Edited by Stubby47
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