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Rob P's 4mm Workbench


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Yesterday I pretty much finished the construction of the Barney. It still needs hand rails and the motor fitting sadly despite much grinding away underneath which allowed the motion to move freely as soon as I added the brakes to the chassis they created more clearance problems.

 

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I made up another vac pipe for the front.

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And finally one of the quite prominent things on this particular loco are the injector(?) pipes that go into the top of the firebox either side of the whistle which were conspicuously absent from the kit.

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I did my usual trick of filing up thin walled tube tube to make the unions and added them to .8mm rod to make a representation of the pipe work.

Edited by Rob Pulham
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Hi Dave,

 

I can't claim any originality for it, I first saw Nick Dunhill do it. 

 

The process is made much easier if you have a pin chuck with hexagon headed collars for the colletts. I must admit I haven't used mine much until seeing Nick making miniature nuts with it. I use the colletts that came with it all tike time but in a pin chuck that had a cushioned rotating head which is much easier on the hand.

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Hi Rob, the Barney is looking fine.  I have one on the decks myself, which has its origins in a Jidenco etched kit (so a good 30% has been replaced!).

 

Here are a couple of protoype photos to assist.  I would nudge you to completing the injector pipework below the footplate as it is fairly prominent and the pipework from the clack valve but it is your/your client's choice!!

 

post-7769-0-77750100-1546457532_thumb.jpg

 

post-7769-0-18727000-1546457755_thumb.jpg

 

PS - Alan Gibson does a rather better clack valve, if you wanted to swap it.

Edited by Portchullin Tatty
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Thanks for the photos Mark they are very useful. 

 

I had thought about continuing the pipework below the footplate but I haven't been able to see a clear enough shot of the injector (?) to make a decent stab at it.

 

You have of course educated me in so much as I had noted the shapeless blobs on the boiler side but I hadn't remotely associated them as being clack valves :O . 

 

I wonder if I might be able to make a pair to replace them (I am not sure how much my client wants to spend on this).

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Alan Gibson ref 4M746 HR ‘Yankee Tank’ clack valves (x2) P are the ones you want.

 

A view from the other side to assist, that also shows the clack vale fairly well.

 

Should have mentioned the tender doors are fairly key to the look too.

 

post-7769-0-61809300-1546638990_thumb.jpg

Edited by Portchullin Tatty
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Thanks again Mark,  I think that I will have a go at turning up a couple of clack valves.

 

I now have a lathe but have been struggling for something worthwhile to make to cut my teeth on. - Since it's been almost 40 years since I last used a lathe.

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Hi Rob,

Hope all is well, nice modelling here.

I am looking forward to see the LYR Railmotor develope.

Cheers

Peter

Thanks Peter,

 All good, a few minor health issues but nothing to worry about.

 

Unfortunately I sold the Railmotor a good few years ago so I won't be finishing if off. To be honest I am not sure whether the gent that I sold it to finished it either.

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  • 2 weeks later...
In the post above Mark mentioned raised the issue of the the clack valves on the side of the boiler on the Barney which made me realise that the misshapen blob was supposed to represent them
 
This is the blob that I refer to:
 
39851133783_eeaeab0d9b.jpg
 
Having had it pointed out I had to do something about it. Mark kindly pointed me at some castings by Alan Gibson but I figured that they couldn't be too difficult to make a pair and although a little fiddly they were fairly easy to do.
 
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They comprise, a couple of brass track rivets, two etched washers and 0.7+0.8mm brass rod.
 
First I drilled through the rivets to take the .8mm rod and then with the thick end of the rivet held in a pin vice I used the Proxxon pillar drill to spot drill and then drill through one side of the narrower section. I then soldered a length of .8mm rod through the centre with a stub sticking out of the narrow end. Then I soldered a length of 0.7mm through the hole in the side threaded on the washer and soldered that.
 
I scraped the misshapen lumps away with a scalpel and then drilled the boiler side finally bending the 0.8mm rod to shape and using a tiny piece of 100 degree I wafted the microflame over the clack until the solder melted and it was in place.
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Another session last night had the tender for the Jones Goods put together and a standard made for the the brake column. This is where the instructions differ from the drawing that was supplied with the kit although I suspect it was added by the customer rather than DJH as the paper looks newer than the instructions. The instructions would have you add a misshapen whitemetal column to the left hand side of the tender looking forwards, whereas the drawing has the ships wheel attached to a column at the right hand side. The instructions vaguely point to the ships wheel being somehow attached to the inside of th tender door.

 

A piece of tube, a couple of different sized washers and some rod made up the column.

 

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Lastly a really cruel close up which makes it look like there is a lake of solder around the base....

46776618112_c8fddefb34_b.jpg

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  • 9 months later...
On 21/11/2019 at 16:16, AlfaZagato said:

How did this 'Barney' come along?

 

Hi AlfaZagato,

 

It's stalled post a house move now awaiting my new workshop being completed. There isn't too much to do on it, mainly small details and getting it running.

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