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I must have one, even though it has bloody duckets!

Hi Sandy, I am one of those saddo's that really likes brake end coaches primarily for the duckets - I have to say that you have made a nice job of that one. I have one of Connoisseur's S&D full brakes with similar duckets to build.

Edited by Rob Pulham
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I have started the chassis and here it is in the Chassis jig

 

 

attachicon.gif P1060138.JPG

 

This close up shows what kind of joint you can get using a torch rather than an iron.

 

attachicon.gif P1060139.JPG

 

Sandy

Sandy, I appreciate that the torch gives a nice joint, but what was the reason for using the torch as opposed to an iron? As far as I can see there is nothing outstanding about the result achieved, compared to what you would get with a good iron. Despite, the comments in one of the other replies about the heat sink effect of the frames and the brass bushes nearby, I don't believe this joint would have caused any problems for an Antex TCS (50watt). I use only thus iron for building anything from small tank locks to pacifics in o gauge without problem.
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Hello PAD I'm sure Sandy will reply but tossing my 2 pence worth in.

I find my mini torch is most useful because it>>

  • heats up VERY quickly
  • is VERY neat leaving little if no smear unlike most irons will do
  • is extremely precise
  • is very easy to manipulate and position being a very light-weight item

I don't do any where near as much soldering as Sandy but I do have a selection of tools being

  1. mini torch
  2. 15watt antex
  3. 30watt antex
  4. 200watt weller
  5. Resistance soldering unit

For my use the most is #1 then #5 with the others getting some random useage more often not on modelling tasks.

 

Try a torch mine is a B&Q £10 button press self ignite using lighter gas., you might find you have been missing out.  If you have a spare £10 to try one I'd be interested in you oppion after. 

 

Regards

Edited by Barnaby
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And now for something completely different!!

 

Here we go again!

 

I was 'gifted' the sides and ends to this.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN6113.JPG

 

In this photo I have extracted all the lower panels and lain them in their position on the sides.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN6112.JPG

 

 

This is part of one side with the panels fitted.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN6118.JPG

 

Bogie's by courtesy of WayOh

 

attachicon.gifDSCN6117.JPG

 

A mention in dispatches to anyone who can identify the prototype.

 

You should get this Mark!!

 

Sandy

Hello Sandy, I may be mistaken but i think your prototype could well be a Highland Railway passenger brake van to dia 64.

 

Regards,

Colonel Bat Guano.

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Well done Colonel Sir, you win the 'virtual biscuit'.

 

I don't have a clue what the history of this etch is or who last produced it. It may have been part of the Home of 0 Gauge catalogue but that is pure conjecture on my part as it came from Redcraft who now own the remains of the HOOG catalogue.

 

I have now put the sides and ends together, fitted a floor and detailed the ends. I will post a photo later.

 

Are you a HR modeller?

 

Kind regards

Sandy

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Hi PAD

 As Barnaby has said, the benefit, as far as I am concerned, is the lack of extraneous solder that is left after the joint is made. With a lot less cleaning up required. This is more obvious when making long seam joints or fitting laminates. I don't think it is 'better' that an iron just a different tool to achieve a better job in some cases.

 

Regards

Sandy

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Well done Colonel Sir, you win the 'virtual biscuit'.

 

I don't have a clue what the history of this etch is or who last produced it. It may have been part of the Home of 0 Gauge catalogue but that is pure conjecture on my part as it came from Redcraft who now own the remains of the HOOG catalogue.

 

I have now put the sides and ends together, fitted a floor and detailed the ends. I will post a photo later.

 

Are you a HR modeller?

 

Kind regards

Sandy

 

 

Hello Sandy,

     

                  I shall enjoy scoffing the virtual biscuit with a large mug of virtual tea!   

 

                 Yes i do like to model the HR and was somewhat surprised to see your etches as I was unaware that any had ever been produced.

 

                 Kindest Regards,

 

                  Colonel Bat Guano.

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Colonel Sir,

 

This afternoon I found a line drawing of the coach in one of my files. It was attached to another drawing of a vertical planked version and I was right, it was a Mega Models product (etches only)

 

When I test fitted the bogies to the floor I found that they were 3mm too high so I reduced the height by moving the pivot holes eitherside of the cross bolster. That of course ment that the wheels were touching the floor so I had to make a few cutouts!

 

I am now awaiting a delivery from Metalsmiths with the solebars (Milled U Channel) and truss rodding

 

All sitting correct now.

 

post-7733-0-37717100-1359233297_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-66650000-1359233302_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-16086100-1359233307_thumb.jpg

 

 

REgards

SAndy

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Hi PAD

 As Barnaby has said, the benefit, as far as I am concerned, is the lack of extraneous solder that is left after the joint is made. With a lot less cleaning up required. This is more obvious when making long seam joints or fitting laminates. I don't think it is 'better' that an iron just a different tool to achieve a better job in some cases.

 

Regards

Sandy

Hello Sandy,thanks for the feed back (and Barnaby also). I see where you are coming from now. I can appreciate the value of having to spend less time cleaning up after the joint is made. Maybe I'll give one a try some time. Cheers, Peter

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Colonel Sir,

 

This afternoon I found a line drawing of the coach in one of my files. It was attached to another drawing of a vertical planked version and I was right, it was a Mega Models product (etches only)

 

When I test fitted the bogies to the floor I found that they were 3mm too high so I reduced the height by moving the pivot holes eitherside of the cross bolster. That of course ment that the wheels were touching the floor so I had to make a few cutouts!

 

I am now awaiting a delivery from Metalsmiths with the solebars (Milled U Channel) and truss rodding

 

All sitting correct now.

 

attachicon.gifP1060242.JPG

 

attachicon.gifP1060244.JPG

 

attachicon.gifP1060245.JPG

 

 

REgards

SAndy

 

Hello Sandy,

 

Tatlow's historic carriage drawings vol3 NPCS, has 2 photos of these vans but they are both later versions with vertically planked sides.

One is also shown after conversion (rebuilt) by the LMS into a Beatties bread van.

 

Regards,

Colonel Bat Guano.

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Sandy/Colonel Bat Guano

 

I think the kit may have its origins in the Peter K 4mm version (which is still available via Kemilwayhttp://www.kemilway.com/peter-k.html but you may take root in the time it takes them to deliver orders..........).  It is also available only as sides and ends?

 

Is it likely that someone has blown up the artwork into 7mm?

 

My father is working on a rework of Hunter's Carriages & Wagons of the Highland Railway at the moment.  There is a target date for publication of Feb 2014 for the Glasgow show.  Lots to do in advance though...........

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  • 2 weeks later...

And now for something completley different, again!

 

I need a small locomotive for an industrial layout my friend and I are constructing. It will be at the Leigh Show at the end of April.

 

When I saw the 'News' item in the Gazette for a 100hp Sentinel industrial 0-4-0 from Metior Models, at about £90, I thought I would take a punt and get one.

 

It arrived the other day and I ordered the wheels, gearbox and motor to go with it. £140 in total.

 

 

This is what you get in the very big box!

 

post-7733-0-66135500-1360949276_thumb.jpg

 

There is also a page of written instructions, a hand drawn exploded diagrame and a photocopy of the etched parts wth identifying numbers..

 

Tim hughes identifies a drawing error in the fold up chassis which needs correcting. The bearing holes on one side need to be extended downwards by 1mm.

 

I wanted to add a bit of springing to the rear bearings (the drive is designed to go on to the front axle) so my bearing holes need a have bit more done to them than normal.  This photo shows the marking out and start of the filing

 

post-7733-0-28108700-1360949317_thumb.jpg

 

This photo shows the amount , in mm, by which I needed to extend the bearing holes.

 

post-7733-0-85419500-1360949355_thumb.jpg

 

The set of 4 axle bearings were not quite a matching set! I don't think this wll be a major issue. It will probably just mean a washer less on that side.

 

post-7733-0-50478000-1360949423_thumb.jpg

 

Sandy

Edited by Sandy Harper
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As you will already have gathered the chassis is a fold up inverted U shape. It is very important to ensure that this is folded up accurately and square in all dimensions as there are no vertical spacers to help you with this. You could add a couple of verticle spacers if you felt they was needed. I didn't, as I am going to fit 5mm Perspex spacers underneath the present ones to convert the chassis for  split chassis/axle pickup (this will be explained later in the build) and they will assist in keeping everything square. Don't forget to run a fillet of solder into the folds to strengthen them.

 

Bending bars and a straight edge are useful for this

 

post-7733-0-91932000-1361008318_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-95303000-1361008330_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-48644000-1361008342_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-25623700-1361008355_thumb.jpg

 

Sandy

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Having got the chassis nice and square it was time to fit the bearings and get them lined up correctly after all the filing. I could have used my 'Hobby Holidays' chassis jig for this but as there are no coupling rods in this kit to set it up I thought I'd do it the old fashioned way with a couple of rods through the axle holes.

In this picture you can see the effect of the original bearing holes which were incorrectly etched.

 

post-7733-0-30368500-1361087741_thumb.jpg

 

This one shows the bearings for the front axle now in their correct positions in the vertical plane. The rear axle still needs a tweak.

 

post-7733-0-28708200-1361087753_thumb.jpg

 

This time showing the front axle in the lateral plane.

post-7733-0-66823200-1361087762_thumb.jpg

 

This photograph shows how far I needed to 'elongate' the bearing hole to correct the drawing error.

post-7733-0-16465300-1361087776_thumb.jpg

 

And finally the chassis sitting square and level on its wheels. I still have the springs to fit to the rear bearings.

post-7733-0-42227000-1361087785_thumb.jpg

 

Regards

Sandy

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