Jump to content
 

What have you done with your Keyser kit


Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Well, yes I know it is not a K’s kit, but as a close substitute, it was my first foray into what I call ‘authentic’ modelmaking; building an original ‘venerated’ (K’s, Wills, etc) kit manufacturer’s kit ‘out of the box’ with no mucking about (no extra details, scale chassis and so on). In this case, an original Wills Finecast Ex-LMS, now BR ‘Crab’. It seems to have turned out quite well.post-6357-0-07028000-1542838608_thumb.jpeg

Best,

Marcus

Edited by EHertsGER
  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone got any comments regarding the accuracy of the K's GWR 63xx (L18) body and the 3,500 gallon tender that comes with it?

It  is reasonably accurate as a model. It represents only the 63XX locos. The kit comes with a side cab for the later 93XX/73XX, BUT there is no allowance for the different centre splasher on the drivers side. They are not as detailed as the Bachmann (then it is 50+ years since it first came out), but they are heavy and have much better adhesion. if you build as the instruction, there is a tendency for the motor to throw out of gear over time. To prevent this, I ensure there is sufficient support between the back of the motor and the frame to prevent movement. The fixing screw is not enough to keep the gears in mesch.

 

All my moguls are K's and I a very happy with them, especially as I have inclines to consider. They are useful for other projects. I was given another once recently. As I do not need another mogul, I am in the process of retro converting back to a 3150 prairie tank, using spare castings from a K's 42XX for the tanks and bunker.

 

Mike Wiltshire

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeff

 

I think its a given that the chassis in most cases should be changed, the early ones tend to have deformed frames, the wheels on these are a bit coarse whilst the motors are better than the later type but not up to modern standards. The newer chassis suffer from both poorly designed and made motor and wheels, plus soft cast motion parts.

 

Changing the wheels motor and fitting a gearbox transforms the performance. With the high cost of wheels motor and gears its worth including a modern chassis. The cost can be reduced by obtaining most parts second hand, if you keep a look out its surprising what can be found.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone built the unbiquitous pannier kit from K’s (the one with the driver cast into the sides) recently, taking advantage of all the modern facilities and parts available to us now? I have an unmade boxed one and have found the castings certainly look nice (it must be a very old one - a proper box, not the flatpack type). I am in a quandary about the chassis, as I plan on staying as faithful to the kit as possible. The wheels are far gone with corrosion so they will be replaced with Romfords. With a bit of experience and some care I feel the slab sided chassis could be made to work with a decent motor and gears, pickups etc. The issue is the accuracy of the holes vs the coupling rods - I’ll check alignment and if its all too bad cut a new set - or should I cheat and use a Comet kit (The High Level kit is way too much for such ‘authenticity’, I feel)?

 

Some guidance or experiences would be very welcome!

 

Best,

Marcus

Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you talking about the 57xx rather than the 94xx which was a bodyline kit designed for the HD R1 chassis

 

If the former a nice kit that built up quite well, the early chassis with keyhole axle cut outs tended to be deformed as the holes were stamped out. the latter one with drilled holes work (I converted one to EM gauge) fine it was the quality of the wheels and motor that failed it. Decent wheels, gears/gearbox and motor transform it. Comet chassis are good without being too detailed. They normally came with a modern cab, but early cab versions were also available.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The one with the driver cast in the cab is the 97XX Condensor Tank.

 

It was part of the "body kit" range to fit on RTR chassis. There was also a LNER J50 and a MR 3F 0-6-0T and they were sold stuck to a piece of cardboard. Although ISTR they also released some as complete kits.

 

The 94XX was Wills.

 

 

An excellent one here in this thread. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/70333-what-have-you-done-with-your-keyser-kit/page-22

 

 

 

Jason

Edited by Steamport Southport
Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you talking about the 57xx rather than the 94xx which was a bodyline kit designed for the HD R1 chassis

 

If the former a nice kit that built up quite well, the early chassis with keyhole axle cut outs tended to be deformed as the holes were stamped out. the latter one with drilled holes work (I converted one to EM gauge) fine it was the quality of the wheels and motor that failed it. Decent wheels, gears/gearbox and motor transform it. Comet chassis are good without being too detailed. They normally came with a modern cab, but early cab versions were also available.

Yes, it was the 57xx - and a recent ‘start’ reveals the chassis to be a non-starter; yuk! It is of the keyhole type and woefully distorted. Bin. I imagine a set of brass slabs drilled to match the coupling rods will get me to where K’s were trying to get me, so let’s see. I have this kit and a Wills 94xx on the go as ‘recreation’, if you like (while full-blown etched kits of some complexity are taking their time. I am supposed to be building ‘proper’ models instead of having way too much fun with these!), so more as things progress.

 

As for the ‘version’, it is definitely a boxed kit - no cardboard backing - it is packed in tissue, and the modern cab 57xx. The driver is definitely cast there (do I keep him? Hmmm. ‘Authenticity’?). I was too young for these the first time around, so perhaps I am trying to ‘connect’ with a generation of kits I missed. Regardless, I am enjoying them no end.

 

Best,

Marcus

Edited by EHertsGER
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, it was the 57xx - and a recent ‘start’ reveals the chassis to be a non-starter; yuk! It is of the keyhole type and woefully distorted. Bin. I imagine a set of brass slabs drilled to match the coupling rods will get me to where K’s were trying to get me, so let’s see. I have this kit and a Wills 94xx on the go as ‘recreation’, if you like (while full-blown etched kits of some complexity are taking their time. I am supposed to be building ‘proper’ models instead of having way too much fun with these!), so more as things progress.

 

As for the ‘version’, it is definitely a boxed kit - no cardboard backing - it is packed in tissue, and the modern cab 57xx. The driver is definitely cast there (do I keep him? Hmmm. ‘Authenticity’?). I was too young for these the first time around, so perhaps I am trying to ‘connect’ with a generation of kits I missed. Regardless, I am enjoying them no end.

 

Bets,

Marcus

 

 

Marcus, I will look forward to seeing the build, I would still opt for a Comet chassis, but that's personal preference. I think there is a type of enjoyment building kits from this era, where they can be built quite quickly.

 

The early versions of the later 80's series were also in boxes, shrink wrapped card came later, as did things like plastic screws and handrail knobs

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Reference my comments earlier in this thread and one about using RTR chassis, I have just purchased from eBay an unbuilt K's 63xx. It is one of the later bubble wrapped ones. I will be building in P4 so new chassis and wheels. I am a builder not an operator so will seriously consider using the motor.....

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeff

 

The motors are very hit or miss, some fail immediately, others after a while, there are some which keep going

 

If building to P4 standards and I guess with all the bells and whistles a decent gearbox and motor could save a lot of frustration

Link to post
Share on other sites

I did build a K's GWR Pannier of the same vintage in the 80's, my first ever loco kit, using all the K's parts. It ran for several years on my OO exhibition layout. Shortly after that a Percy P4 chassis and DS10 was fitted.....

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have just been given an old K's GWR mogul. It has a running chassis with original 1960's motor and pre quartered wheels and runs well. The body is not so good. As I am not short of moguls, I have started to do what Swindon did. Add side tanks and bunker and make a 3150 big boilered Prairie. 

 

Not as difficult as it sounds. I have utilised some old Cotswold/Nucast 72xx castings. I have been surprised how much the cab profiles of a 63xx and a 72xx match and is nothing like a 61xx.

 

Mike Wiltshire

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have just been given an old K's GWR mogul. It has a running chassis with original 1960's motor and pre quartered wheels and runs well. The body is not so good. As I am not short of moguls, I have started to do what Swindon did. Add side tanks and bunker and make a 3150 big boilered Prairie. 

 

Not as difficult as it sounds. I have utilised some old Cotswold/Nucast 72xx castings. I have been surprised how much the cab profiles of a 63xx and a 72xx match and is nothing like a 61xx.

 

Mike Wiltshire

 

 

Interested to see more about this as I do have some spare sides, thst is if I do have the correct ones !!

Link to post
Share on other sites

"All my moguls are K's and I a very happy with them, especially as I have inclines to consider. They are useful for other projects. I was given another once recently. As I do not need another mogul, I am in the process of retro converting back to a 3150 prairie tank, using spare castings from a K's 42XX for the tanks and bunker."

 

 

COACH BOGIE: Just seen this. Sounds like a good way of getting a model of a useful prototype. Do you think a K's/Cotswold 42/72xx could be used with a Wills 41/51/61xx to produce a 1939 31xx?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Are these 2-6-2's? What about the chassis

The frames are common dimensions for the mogul and prairie (hence why Dapol are doing both!!!)

 

I have spent a bit more time on this. Unfortunately I became over zealous in trying to convert the K's running plate to the square end version. I broke into several pieces. I replaced it with one made from scrap brass. The dodgy buffers are there to set height, a real issue when you start these sort of projects..

post-9992-0-34653400-1544651129_thumb.jpg

post-9992-0-02706900-1544651140_thumb.jpg

 

I have now abandoned the K's boiler - again because I messed up big time with the running plate. I am using most of the body parts from a Nucast/Cotswold 72XX. I needed to enlarge the rear bunker, a job not required if you use the Wills/SEF as a basis. I have trialed it. You can merge the Wills/SEF prairie kit with the K's no 4 boiler, or Nucast parts. It is only the cab roof which will need some work as roof profile is much higher on a 3150, compared to a 51XX.

post-9992-0-89324900-1544651149_thumb.jpg

Here is the tanks/firebox off showing the original K's mech.

 

To be continued....

 

Mike Wiltshire

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the parts for a 63xx Mogul which I fancy building with modern running gear for P4.  It was originally built with epoxy MANY years ago (not by me) and dismantled with (I think) paint stripper.  If I do build it I will try soldering.  I actually fancy trying a motor in the tender with a shaft into a gearbox in the firebox - but I don't have a tender!  There was one for sale ready built at Manchester Show which I'm now regeretting not buying.  To me, the firebox appears rather narrow for a decent size motor hence the tender drive option.  What are other people doing for motors?

 

The bits!

 

post-807-0-58039100-1544706991_thumb.jpg

Edited by 5050
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...