What have you done with your Keyser kit

[hayfield]

The coaches come from K's continental range and do come up frequently, think the name starts with a M. The Mogul looks to have the older 70's series chassis and wheels. If in the UK K's GWR tenders come up quite often. Seen them go for a pretty penny and also picked them up for a £5, prices vary greatly.

[The Johnster]

My K's 8750 has long since been scrapped but it's cab lives on aboard a loco that started life as a Mainline 57xx that I converted to 8750 outline many years ago.  Now running on my layout as 9681 as supplied new to Tondu shed in 1949, it has a modern Bachmann chassis and runs very well; the lack of interior cab detail is hidden by the dodge of modelling the sliding cab shutters in the closed position and a crew blocking the rest of the view. 

 

I think some chassis parts still exist in bits and bobs boxes, including frames and the Romford motor.  9681 is a bit of a weak link and may be scrapped if a better Bachmann 8750 body turns up, as the poorly rendered cab windows and lack of fire iron hooks on the back of the bunker are a bit obvious against modern RTR.  I have worked it up a little with etched rear window grilles, but the whole thing is a bit crude by current standards.  It'll do for now, though.

Edited December 28, 2018 by The Johnster

[hmrspaul]

Jol, are you implying J.P's stock has been moved from the line of showcases that I last saw some 4 - 5 years ago to somewhere less?

I hope not, as they are wonderful models.

 

They are beautifully displayed, in showcases specially built for them, in the Works. Which is a wonderful attempt to display so much more than could possibly be done in the main hall - despite their considerable size. Wait for the rebuilding they want to do, some plans have hardly any large exhibits, but an explanation of the history of railways. Heritage railways have excesses numerous large exhibits but don't explain the essence of railways.

 

 

 

Paul

[Denbridge]

Yes, it was the 57xx - and a recent ‘start’ reveals the chassis to be a non-starter; yuk! It is of the keyhole type and woefully distorted. Bin. I imagine a set of brass slabs drilled to match the coupling rods will get me to where K’s were trying to get me, so let’s see. I have this kit and a Wills 94xx on the go as ‘recreation’, if you like (while full-blown etched kits of some complexity are taking their time. I am supposed to be building ‘proper’ models instead of having way too much fun with these!), so more as things progress.

As for the ‘version’, it is definitely a boxed kit - no cardboard backing - it is packed in tissue, and the modern cab 57xx. The driver is definitely cast there (do I keep him? Hmmm. ‘Authenticity’?). I was too young for these the first time around, so perhaps I am trying to ‘connect’ with a generation of kits I missed. Regardless, I am enjoying them no end.

Best,

Marcus

put a decent chassis under it and you'll have a really nice model. I'm just about to order a couple of high level kits to go under a couple of pannier I built years ago, which have run many actual miles. I've just done one for a mate and the transformation is awesome. His had the basic keyser chassis, which ran ok but looked awful. Now it stands up well against the RTR offerings.

[hayfield]

I think most older type kits benefit from modern chassis especially if decent can motors, gearboxes and wheels are used

 

Many used to use Romford wheels and replace motors. But can motors and decent gearboxes take the performance to another level

[Coach bogie]

Once again, I am back defending K's its. I have no issues with the frames and mechs. They have outlived many 'more modern' motor gearboxes. One major advantage over 'modern' etched frames is they do not warp when screwed to the body. I have had too may instances of thin brass or nickel frames running perfectly on the bench. If the body is not totally square the frames twist to match the body shape. This even happens when using rtr bodies. I know to look out for it now. This has never been an issue with \K's, Jamieson, Bristol Models , Nucast etc frame.

 

As for detail, here is one I have shown before. It was built as per the kit using K's wheels, motors, frames etc. I did it to prove as part of a difference of opinion, with a friend, to prove that a K's kit can run fine as intended.

 

It works well, shunts at slow speed and is used in most sessions. Unlike the rtr versions, the 1940's topfeed is OPTIONAL, which is how building K's panniers started for me. I now have four from K's. All the Bachmann ones have been sold on, apart from the one that the mech blew up (never happened with any of my K's.)

 

If using more recent chassis and motors is your thing then Respect.I totally appreciate your point of view. I use them myself when I need to. But please appreciate that, like many others, my K's collection aint broke, so I aint fixing it!

 

Mike Wiltshire

[EHertsGER]

put a decent chassis under it and you'll have a really nice model. I'm just about to order a couple of high level kits to go under a couple of pannier I built years ago, which have run many actual miles. I've just done one for a mate and the transformation is awesome. His had the basic keyser chassis, which ran ok but looked awful. Now it stands up well against the RTR offerings.

Its a good, and very tempting, idea but I feel the High Level chassis might take me too far from the ‘authentic K’s “out of the box” ‘ ethos of my plans - but of course, plans change. Having abandoned the kit chassis, my planned route was either cutting a matching set of frames to replicate what the kit frames should have been or the Comet or Perseverance offerings, only to discover neither of those (well, I knew the latter wasn’t) available. Or have Wizard models just not listed it? Never mind - I’ll sort it out later. There are other ‘things’ on my bench.

Edited December 30, 2018 by EHertsGER

[steam69]

Its a good, and very tempting, idea but I feel the High Level chassis might take me too far from the ‘authentic K’s “out of the box” ‘ ethos of my plans - but of course, plans change. Having abandoned the kit chassis, my planned route was either cutting a matching set of frames to replicate what the kit frames should have been or the Comet or Perseverance offerings, only to discover neither of those (well, I knew the latter wasn’t) available. Or have Wizard models just not listed it? Never mind - I’ll sort it out later. There are other ‘things’ on my bench.

As mentioned else where it's a horrid website however here is the link:-  https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/locomotive/gwr-57xx-0-6-0pt-chassis-pack-lcp22/

 

Richard

[hayfield]

The original Comet site was easy to navigate. I think Wizzards is better with a computer less so with a tablet useless with a phone

 

Once you can access the details of the kits the solution is easy to find.

 

Also a secondhand 43xx built to P4 standards sold for £31 plus postage ( no wheels motor or gears). The plus side is the answer has been found and it’s YES st no additional cost

[Steamport Southport]

The Comet website is still available and maintained.

 

http://www.cometmodels.co.uk/

 

 

 

Jason

[Barclay]

I have recently gotten hold of my 'holy grail' kit, the K's Fowler dock tank. I will be making a new chassis for it but I wondered if anyone has any experience of pushing the K's wheels out to EM gauge? It is a fairly late kit with the D-shaped axles so I would ease the wheels out slightly, secure with Loctite, and fill the gap at the face of the wheel with Araldite. Sorry it sounds awful in the cold light of day but I would like to use as much of the original kit as possible and it's just a thought at this stage.

[John_Hughes]

I have recently gotten hold of my 'holy grail' kit, the K's Fowler dock tank. I will be making a new chassis for it but I wondered if anyone has any experience of pushing the K's wheels out to EM gauge? It is a fairly late kit with the D-shaped axles so I would ease the wheels out slightly, secure with Loctite, and fill the gap at the face of the wheel with Araldite. Sorry it sounds awful in the cold light of day but I would like to use as much of the original kit as possible and it's just a thought at this stage.

 

I don't think the axles would be long enough, but you could always flatten some suitable ones (Gibson, perhaps?) to suit. It just might work, and the wheels themselves actually aren't bad, it was always the interface between them and the axle that caused the grief.

[hayfield]

Stuart, might be worth a try as you are only talking about a mm per side and just plug the holes if it works,  but as said these wheels are a bit fickle and may not survive being pulled around. Might be worth a look for an unused set, or as said buy some Gibsons or change to Romford/Markits

[PGC]

Only just caught up with this thread. I tried to get the K's motor etc. working on my J70 tram loco, but couldn't get it to the standard I wanted, so gave up. Many, many years later, came up with the bright idea of putting a Hollywood Foundry chassis under the body. Now very happy with the running - just need to do interior details, crew etc. I'm trying to attach a video, but think I'm hitting a size limit!

Edited January 2, 2019 by PGC

[bike2steam]

My little Fowler Dock-Tank, next to a Bachmann IF 'Half-cab' for size comparison (?), built about 1985 with a Portescap motor running on Romford wheels, still runs as sweet as it first did. Just a pity the modelling mat ain't as clean as it used to be.

 

[Dave Hunt]

The second loco kit I ever built was a K's Kirtley 0-6-0 in 1974 (the first was a Gem Midland Belpaire 4-4-0). It has an XO4 motor and Romford wheels (I think) and ran very nicely. I still have it and when I took this photograph it was probably over 25 years since it was last taken out of its box. I don't have any 00 track on which to pose it as I've been modelling in 7mm for over 30 years now. The fall plate has gone missing. A good little nostalgia trip though.

 

Dave Hunt  

Edited January 6, 2019 by Dave Hunt

[Barry O]

Ks dock tank..lovely loco... built with Romford Wheels as I believe the original ones were so poor

 

 

and Young Mr Hunt...

 

 

probably the most iconic Ks Midland loco kit...

 

Baz

 

 

 

 

[relaxinghobby]

Two for the price of one picture, K's GWR bogie full brake and their Lion luggage engine of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway.

It's a non-motorised version so as soon as I sort out the driving wheels and get them turning properly I have a cunning plan to propell the loco..

The full brake hides a Mehano US diesel driven chassis.

 

 

And topless;

 

Edited January 8, 2019 by relaxinghobby

[D51]

There have been a couple of examples on this forum recently of the K's LMS Dock Tank which makes up into a lovely model.  Here is my own example, fitted with Romford wheels, Mashima motor and High Level gearbox.  The weight makes it a fine performer!

 

Frank

 

 

[cctransuk]

 

K's Dock Tank.jpg

 

Wah-hey !!

 

Someone else using Peco / HD Simplex couplings !

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[5050]

I rather fancy one of these as, with its short wheelbase, it would fit in well with my industrials.  Might be a bit tight behind the crossheads though in P4!   There's also the one that Wills did I seem to remember that fitted on a USA Tank chassis?

[Beechnut]

Just doing one of those myself, my first K's kit.

 

Brendan

[Il Grifone]

I have recently gotten hold of my 'holy grail' kit, the K's Fowler dock tank. I will be making a new chassis for it but I wondered if anyone has any experience of pushing the K's wheels out to EM gauge? It is a fairly late kit with the D-shaped axles so I would ease the wheels out slightly, secure with Loctite, and fill the gap at the face of the wheel with Araldite. Sorry it sounds awful in the cold light of day but I would like to use as much of the original kit as possible and it's just a thought at this stage.

 

There isn't enough material to push the wheels out (they are held by screws anyway). There used to be EM axles for K's wheels, but they are rather hard/impossible to find now. I cut the K's axles in two and extended them 2mm with brass tubing and Araldite. The gear might be a problem, but I had an EM axle to use for this. The plastic D was prone to wear so it might be possible to ream out the wheels and fit new axles of 1/8" steel rod.

[Beechnut]

I have recently gotten hold of my 'holy grail' kit, the K's Fowler dock tank. I will be making a new chassis for it but I wondered if anyone has any experience of pushing the K's wheels out to EM gauge? It is a fairly late kit with the D-shaped axles so I would ease the wheels out slightly, secure with Loctite, and fill the gap at the face of the wheel with Araldite. Sorry it sounds awful in the cold light of day but I would like to use as much of the original kit as possible and it's just a thought at this stage.

Hello Stuart

 

If you're desperate I have three EM K's axles, I was going to use them for my build but one of the plastic 'D's' on the wheels has failed. Although my picture shows an AGW wheel I shall be using Markits.

As I said on my earlier post this is my first Keyser kit and after having read lots about the wheels I've got say I was quite impressed with them, self quartering, run true, decent crank pins etc. If I'd tested the fit of the screws in the plastic wheel centres first and relieved the tight fit they would have been perfectly acceptable, to me anyway.

 

Brendan

[Barclay]

Thanks that's a very kind offer, but mine's a late kit with the plain 'D' axles and the wheels are just a push fit, so they may not be compatible.