A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

[MikeOxon]

Tested Foster Wheeler Boiler economiser boxes to 1800Lbs/sq in, working pressure is 1200 Lbs/ sq in,

 

Oh, light-weight stuff    The primary vessel of a Pressurised Water Reactor runs at around 155 bar (2,250 psig).   The water remains liquid at 315°C due to this pressure.

[ozzyo]

Tested Foster Wheeler Boiler economiser boxes to 1800Lbs/sq in, working pressure is 1200 Lbs/ sq in, ya need plenty of nappy liners when it starts to creak and groan, tis also useful to have several rubber bands around the ankles of the boilersuit.

 

SS

Then you only know what has happened when you remove the rubber bands,

been there and had to remove the bands. Welliys are a good thing in this case.

 

OzzyO. 

[MikeOxon]

Re. my earlier post about a diamond scriber, I also bought a 9.8mm diameter dressing tool (too big for the pen holder of the Silhouette),  Although it has a large 0.5 carat diamond, it is not so well polished and has a relatively coarse tip.  I recommend anyone planning to try this method to look for the finer type of stylus, as shown earlier at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79025-a-guide-to-using-the-silhouette-cameo-cutter/?p=1324112

 

9.8mm dia. diamond dresser

 

Mike

 

 

 

[MikeTrice]

Out of interest is it possible to create spot marks on sheet brass that can be used to punch rivets?

[Siberian Snooper]

Then you only know what has happened when you remove the rubber bands,

been there and had to remove the bands. Welliys are a good thing in this case.

 

OzzyO.

 

Wearing Wellies on grey funnel line ships is not normally recomended, as dangling by your tootsies when trying to get access to some parts mean your feet tend to slip out. It does however make the escape of the brown adrenaline a lot more interesting, as it runs out of the collar of the boilersuit.

 

SS

[JCL]

Out of interest is it possible to create spot marks on sheet brass that can be used to punch rivets?

Would very small circles work?

[MikeTrice]

Or a tiny cross?

[MikeOxon]

Diamond scribers back on Amazon this morning (Sat 1st Feb) see http://www.amazon.co.uk/Round-Grinding-Single-Diamond-Dresser/dp/B00AUB86U0/ref=sr_1_5?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1391251685&sr=1-5&keywords=diamond+dresser

[Collett]

I have just spent the last three hours reading through this thread and hitting on various links and searches.  BTW, came to this via a mention in Scalefour News, so the word is spreading.   Having recently been researching small milling machines and CNC engraving tables it seems to me that the Silhouette machine represents a 'plug-and-play' option with amazing potential for the price of, well shall we say a couple of etched brass loco kits or five etched carriages.  A reasonable investment for a versatile tool - and a great deal less than the desktop CNC options I was previously looking at.

 

I would make a couple of observations -

• As regards problems concerning tight corners, wouldn't it be fairer on the machine to use it's straight line accuracy and when a sharp 90 degree curve is required with a radius of, let's say <2mm, it would be better to scribe a cross hair centre spot which is then used to drill the corner?  I'm trying to recall David Jenkinson's articles on plasticard carriage construction from hundreds of years ago (or did I get his book from the library?) where I'm sure he drilled out the panel corners.  This would also provide an opening from which the rest of the cut could be completed, saving on knife wear? 
• I like the idea of making springs and axle boxes, this is a system ideal for accurate repetitive cuts.  But for the springs, rather than trying to laminate them from a front elevation 'profile' couldn't you cut a series of leaves as oblongs of the relevant dimension and with a little hot air pursued them to take the correct curve?  With a little care it might even be possible to make them actually work....???

I'm a recent returnee to the hobby (again) having always previously been daunted by the gob-smackingly amazing quality of work as displayed by some of the guys here and in the modelling press, plus my own inability to cut anything straight, square, perpendicular or parallel.  This machine may be just a bigger better Stanley knife to those with real skills - but to me it looks like the answer to my prayers. 

 

I don't know if RMWeb operate a Member status system, but can I nominate JCL for "Hero" classification if available?

Edited February 2, 2014 by Collett

[Collett]

This tool just seems to keep presenting more and more potential -

 

This is glass etching

 

and this is applied to copper http://blueberribeads.co.uk/archives/1497

 

Now I don't think the Silhouette is ever going to cut brass, let's be realistic, but it can scribe accurately so a design can be transferred onto the brass sheet for traditional cutting tools, but also provide a resist coat stencil for chemical etch that would give you surface details and perhaps fold lines.  However, with accurate registration of two stencils there appears to be potential for a double sided etch to make holes and release components.

 

For chemical etch materials I've located a supplier with claims being made for room temperature, low agitation, etchant.  Of course anyone using these chemicals is responsible for the safe use and storage of the chemistry and appropriate disposal of exhausted chemicals.

 

http://mungolux.com/Etchant-and-Acid/Etch-Mordant-AE3300::9.html

Edited February 2, 2014 by Collett

[10800]

I've just been spending some time going through this whole topic properly prior to acquiring a Cameo mostly for 4mm scale buildings and coach sides.

 

Forgive me if I missed this, but early on someone referred to cutting suitably sized holes in the same place on the sequence of laminated sections for the purpose of aiding accurate registration when gluing together (using drill bits, axles or whatever). It strikes me that you could best do this by having the registration holes in sections of 'blank' plastic off each end of the coach etc as it were, then when all done you manually cut these off the finished side and file smooth and sharp.

 

Is this what people do?

Edited February 2, 2014 by 10800

[Ralph R]

Having been mightily impressed by this little machine's capabilities I took the plunge and bought one. I use Coreldraw for all my drawings having quite a lot of experience with it in producing drawings for etching. Coreldraw, like Inkscape uses the Silhoutte as a printer just like any other printer but it does work fine apart from one issue. It prints (or should I say cuts) upside down so that things at the top of your Corel drawing actually get cut at the bottom of the sheet. Not really a big issue, I simply move everything to the bottom of the drawing before starting the cut but it is a bit of a pain. I have no idea why it does that but I will try and see if I can find a solution one day.

 

Otherwise I am amazed with the machine's ability (along with many others in our club) and I have started to produce windows for a signal box. They are much more appropriate in plastic rather than etched brass, the depth is right and best of all you don't have to sit waiting for the etchers to do the job for you and then send you a hefty bill.

 

Thanks Jason, you have changed to modelling lives of many people.

 

Ralph

[MikeTrice]

Coreldraw, like Inkscape uses the Silhoutte as a printer just like any other printer but it does work fine apart from one issue. It prints (or should I say cuts) upside down so that things at the top of your Corel drawing actually get cut at the bottom of the sheet. Not really a big issue, I simply move everything to the bottom of the drawing before starting the cut but it is a bit of a pain. I have no idea why it does that but I will try and see if I can find a solution one day.

Inkscape does the same, but only in Portrait mode. In Landscape the leading edge is on the left.

[MikeTrice]

I've just been spending some time going through this whole topic properly prior to acquiring a Cameo mostly for 4mm scale buildings and coach sides.

 

Forgive me if I missed this, but early on someone referred to cutting suitably sized holes in the same place on the sequence of laminated sections for the purpose of aiding accurate registration when gluing together (using drill bits, axles or whatever). It strikes me that you could best do this by having the registration holes in sections of 'blank' plastic off each end of the coach etc as it were, then when all done you manually cut these off the finished side and file smooth and sharp.

 

Is this what people do?

I can only speak for myself, but for the axleboxes, springs and coach bogies it is easy to use the axle holes as registration points in conjunction with brass bearings. In addition, especially if the cuttings are supposed to be symmetrical (the cuttings will not be truly symmetrical dues to the way the blade aligns itself) I also add a tiny pip to the artwork to help get them the right way round which is then cut off.

 

I have not used registration holes for anything else, perhaps I should as my eyesight does not always get it right. On most occassions it is possible to just line the cuttings edge on, on a flat surface and align the ends before applying solvent.

[MikeTrice]

I would make a couple of observations -

• As regards problems concerning tight corners, wouldn't it be fairer on the machine to use it's straight line accuracy and when a sharp 90 degree curve is required with a radius of, let's say <2mm, it would be better to scribe a cross hair centre spot which is then used to drill the corner?  I'm trying to recall David Jenkinson's articles on plasticard carriage construction from hundreds of years ago (or did I get his book from the library?) where I'm sure he drilled out the panel corners.  This would also provide an opening from which the rest of the cut could be completed, saving on knife wear? 
• I like the idea of making springs and axle boxes, this is a system ideal for accurate repetitive cuts.  But for the springs, rather than trying to laminate them from a front elevation 'profile' couldn't you cut a series of leaves as oblongs of the relevant dimension and with a little hot air pursued them to take the correct curve?  With a little care it might even be possible to make them actually work....???

I don't know if RMWeb operate a Member status system, but can I nominate JCL for "Hero" classification if available?

The Silhouette does a pretty good job of the radius so I really would not attempt to spot a hole centre for subsequent drilling. Bear in mind we also use it to cut right angled corners.

 

For springs, yes you could cut the individual leaves and laminate them together although they would be more fiddly to assemble.

 

Hero status? Well he has certainly changed my ability to make coaches, but would this mean we would have to call him "Sir".

[JCL]

Thanks Collett, but I think I'd suffer from cranial expansion, and pants on the outside of my tights aren't my thing I'm really pleased you've enjoyed the read and it's given you some good ideas!

 

I also agree with every word Mike said in the last few posts. Bearings are great as guides when making bogies or W-irons, and I've not had a lot of problems lining up coach sides; possibly because they are easier to hold and line up than the small and fiddly parts. I've been putting together the bogie tutorial that has just got to the stage that Mike's talking about. Those pips on one of the struts/sprues are essential!

 

I'm still working with the developer about a proper cutter interface between Inkscape and the cutter. Unfortunately work got in the way the last few days (rude, I know), but I have managed to cut something now, and it cuts in the place you would expect it to cut. Which is always positive!

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

 

[JCL]

Hi there

 

I was trying to cut .010" card last night, but couldn't get the knife to go through it. The first pass was a light one as I normally do, but I think the blade has come to the end if its useful knife, so I used a new blade on the next heavier pass and the one after that. For the last pass I cranked everything up to 11 and let it go, but this morning I'm still having to break the components out. The blade is new, and the mat's clean.

 

Has anyone else had this problem?

 

cheers

 

Jason

[Ron Heggs]

Hi there

 

I was trying to cut .010" card last night, but couldn't get the knife to go through it. The first pass was a light one as I normally do, but I think the blade has come to the end if its useful knife, so I used a new blade on the next heavier pass and the one after that. For the last pass I cranked everything up to 11 and let it go, but this morning I'm still having to break the components out. The blade is new, and the mat's clean.

 

Has anyone else had this problem?

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

Hi, Jason

 

Don't have any problem with 10 thou, but I have found that because most of my cuts are into 20 thou, where the pressure after the first cut, is cranked up for the next three cuts, that the necessary pressure is now 30 when only 20 was required before

 

Checked the mat, and it is clean and flat i.e. no depressions or humps

 

Looked at the backing strip under the mat where the blade runs, and this is showing a noticeable depression. I can only assume that continuous cutting with high pressures is taking its toll on this strip which should be as firm and solid as possible. The pressure therefore needs to be wound up slightly higher as the blade pushes down on the styrene and mat, and into the depression in the backing strip. May have to find a source for a replacement strip to get the cutting pressures back to normal

 

Cheers

 

Ron

[TheCuckoo]

Stupid Question:

If you were to paint a piece of, say, 20thou plastic then stick masking tape on top, is the cutter capable of cutting a shape from the masking tape without damaging the paint underneath?

[JCL]

Hi, Jason

 

Don't have any problem with 10 thou, but I have found that because most of my cuts are into 20 thou, where the pressure after the first cut, is cranked up for the next three cuts, that the necessary pressure is now 30 when only 20 was required before

 

Checked the mat, and it is clean and flat i.e. no depressions or humps

 

Looked at the backing strip under the mat where the blade runs, and this is showing a noticeable depression. I can only assume that continuous cutting with high pressures is taking its toll on this strip which should be as firm and solid as possible. The pressure therefore needs to be wound up slightly higher as the blade pushes down on the styrene and mat, and into the depression in the backing strip. May have to find a source for a replacement strip to get the cutting pressures back to normal

 

Cheers

 

Ron

That could be it. I've just checked my strip and it's noticeably bowed on the left, this is where the cuts aren't breaking through. I've got a spare strip in my room downstairs so I'll see if I can get it on. I'll write up how I do it.

 

TheCuckoo - I'll leave that for someone with more experience than me.

Edited February 4, 2014 by JCL

[jpendle]

Stupid Question:

If you were to paint a piece of, say, 20thou plastic then stick masking tape on top, is the cutter capable of cutting a shape from the masking tape without damaging the paint underneath?

 

it depends what you are trying to do. If you are just painting some kind of background colour on the styrene then I would think you don't need the masking tape. The cutter is very accurate and wouldn't damage the surface finish of the paint when cutting out a shape.

 

If you are trying to paint a specific thing, like a wall or coach side then you need to use the cutter software to first print your design on the styrene with registration marks and then load the printed sheet into the cutter for cutting. Now the issue would be whether you are able to print anyhting on styrene. Alternatives are to print onto label paper or plain card and then use the cutter to cut the printed material and the styrene and then laminate the two together.

 

Regards,

 

John P

[TheCuckoo]

...it depends what you are trying to do...

 

Well the idea was that you use it to create masks 'in-situ' to aid the painting stage of a coach side. For example, a GWR 4 wheeled coach has some serious livery to paint, so, paint on a brown undercoat to the main coach side, add masking tape and cut out the mask for some of the lining. Remove the cut outs, paint on the yellow/gold lining and when dry, remove mask and overlay with a separately painted black 'lattice' of panel trim (no idea what the correct term is).

 

Actually that sounds clear as mud - hopefully you'll understand what I'm getting at?   

[jpendle]

The big question is whether the cutter can cut masking tape accurately, and unfortunately I have not tried it so I have no idea. It might be that the glue on the tape or the thickness of the tape precludes a clean cut, I guess soneone would have to 'suck it and see'!

Assuming it would cut then you wouldn't need to paint the styrene, I would do at least two passes, one to cut my styrene to my desired shape and a second pass where I just load the masking tape sepereate from the styrene to cut out my masks.

Of course the other option is to print the entire coach side design onto card and then laminate it to the coach side as an overlay.

 

John P

[raymw]

HI,

 

You can print with an inkjet on many materials, including plastic, if you can feed it through the printer. You need to first paint the material with a precoat, such as http://www.silverprint.co.uk/pdf/inkaid.pdf or similar. I've done it in the past, but can't now put my hands on the actual jar of precoat I used, I think it was a different brand.

 

Best wishes,

 

Ray

[JCL]

HI,

 

You can print with an inkjet on many materials, including plastic, if you can feed it through the printer. You need to first paint the material with a precoat, such as http://www.silverprint.co.uk/pdf/inkaid.pdf or similar. I've done it in the past, but can't now put my hands on the actual jar of precoat I used, I think it was a different brand.

 

Best wishes,

 

Ray

 

If it helps, there was a discussion about printing on plastic a few pages back on this thread. MikeOxon has been experimenting with using white paint, hairspray etc, to hold the ink on the 6 wheel GWR coaches he's building.