A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

[Jonathanj]

Good stuff Dave, that's a great looking footbridge.

 

Fantastic Mike. I was going to write "photos or it didn't happen", but I'm happy to take your word for it:) Andy G of this parish cut a new gasket out for his car a couple of months back.

 

I wound up making a 'template' spacer for a motorbike wheel the other day.  I say template because it wasn't suitable for use but did allow all the dimensions to be checked prior to cutting steel.  What did Mr G. make the gasket out of?  I can't think of anything suitable that'd go through the machine and wouldn't also be more expensive than Halfords..

 

J.

Edited May 18, 2014 by Jonathanj

[JCL]

I don't really remember, could have been cardboard. I think it was a case of not being able to get to Halfords. It's way back in the depths of either this thread or Mike Trice's thread on Inkscape.

[Jonathanj]

FIX for LONG CUTS

 

Nice guy called Brian at Graphtec looked into the problem promptly and came back to me.  Basically it looks as though this is one of the outstanding bugs in v3.0.  I was running V3.0.293ss, and the latest update is now v3.0.343 -  if that doesn't fix it (I haven't tried), they'll presumably get to it in due course.  The known good version is still v2.9.45, which can be found at :

 

http://www.silhouetteamerica.com/media/apps/studio/silhouette-studio_v2.9.45.exe

 

So uninstall v3, then download and install v2.9.45 from the above link.  It then does exactly what it says on the tin, follow the instructions in JCL's post on the last page and the job's a good'un -  I've just run a 205 x 930mm cut (ie a touch over 3ft long) with no problems.

 

In terms of the warranty, all UK machines are registered at dispatch, which is why the system couldn't accept my serial number -  it already had it and thought I was trying to add a duplicate machine.

 

J.

Edited May 20, 2014 by Jonathanj

[MickRalph]

There is a reference to use of a cutter in one of the "mainstream" French magazines.  The latest issue of Voie Libre includes an article on building a De Dion Bouton railcar, some of the parts for which were cut on a Craft Robo cutter. There are no details of the process - perhaps there is to be a follow-up article in due course - but there is the following explanation:

 

This is the railcar, but the window frames/bolections were not cut on the cutter, but were added by cementingquarter-round rod to the sides (which consist of three laminations)

 

I can recommend the magazine to all who are interested in narrow gauge lines.  It is published quarterly in hard copy on the bookstands and also as an electronic version, in English.  The standard of modelling is excellent and the layouts shown come from all over Europe.  The website is at www.voielibre.com

 

I am currently experimenting to cut out the parts for my first model - one of the stations on the Tramways of the Correze, a French metre-gauge line.  I hope to be able to post a photo when I have succeeded in cutting and laminating the parts - the walls are over a foot thick, so that I need to laminate about 10 thicknesses of 20 thou plasticard to give the depth for the door and windows - I am modelling it in 1:55 scale (5.5mm/foot)

 

Mick

[ThePurplePrimer]

I am starting to wish I had never bought this thing

 

This 'thing' being a Silhouette Portrait

 

After many little niggles like trying to get it to cut a square that is actually square and a circular circle ( and no my material is not moving about ) I had actually manage to make it cut a few things out that I could use

 

Today the same file that cut perfectly a few days ago all the way through in 0.25mm styrene isn't cutting deep enough to even snap it out where it normally cuts all the way through - not even deep enough to snap it out

 

I check all the settings - they are fine and all wound up - depth 10, speed 1 , thickness 33 and double cut

 

I reboot the pc - no different

 

reboot the cutter - no good

 

put a new blade in it - still no good

 

I am not a happy bunny 

[N15class]

Don't forget that if you bought a Silhouette for railway modelling, it has many other potential uses as well! 

 

The rectangular diaphragm washer in my loo cistern failed yesterday. I scanned the old torn one, copied it with the Studio software, and cut out a replacement with my 'Portrait' machine - quite a complex shape with four holes of different sizes. 

 

Works perfectly - quite a relief

 

Mike

I would of gon the the builders merchants it would be quicker for me, They used to just cost pennies.

[ThePurplePrimer]

Well just before i threw a complete paddy and threw it in the bin I decided to try a blank file and draw a square

 

It cut properly

 

Tried one of the old files - no good

 

I didn't fancy redrawing everything so I pasted my shapes into a new file and they cut properly

 

So I wonder what has happened to these old files ( same software version by the way ) 

 

 

[MikeOxon]

I would of gon the the builders merchants it would be quicker for me, They used to just cost pennies.

it used to be like that - they're all different shapes now and cost around £5 - if you can find the right one!

 

Mike

[uax6]

For my Gaskets I used good old cornflakes packets, as having a proper motor I can't get gaskets off the shelf at the local autofactors. Indeed I can also make sure that the gaskets fit too!

 

I would have thought that normal gasket paper would cut fine too.

 

Andy G

[Royal42]

Hello everyone,  I've been avidly reading through this thread, since I first came across it a couple of days ago, and now feel I need to join and learn more.

 

I am an amateur scratchbuilder and like to build ships, amongst other transport models, and I noticed the discussions about plastic/metal cutting machines.  I would like to invest in one of these cutting machines as I am hopeless at hand cutting multiple lengths of fine styrene; such as the mast on my model of HMS Hermes below which is entirely made up of cut plastic sheet, and I really would like to try doing it by machine.   Could I ask a question here (having read your discussions on the Cameo and Silver Bullet cutting machines) - does anyone know if I could cut the mast sections out of, say, 0.5mm brass sheet with the Silver Bullet?  Or would I be better off sticking with styrene and just purchasing a Cameo?  I realise that there is probably no definitive answer but someone here may have gone through similar problems and found a resolution with either machine?

 

The model ship is only about 3/4 complete but already has approx. 1000 separate plastic pieces, all cut by hand with ruler and scalpel blade, so you can imagine how my hands and wrists feel after each cutting session!  Many of the parts are same-size section cuts so is very tedious and repetitious.   The model is to 1:350 scale which makes the mast approx. 5cm high by 1.5cm wide at the base and assume would be similar to cutting out and constructing a signal gantry and hence why I am hoping for some helpful advice here please.

 

Thanks for reading this and I would be grateful to receive any helpful advice on this.  I've already learned so much by reading this thread through a few times.

 

Mike

 

 

The side-lift, gantry underside, is placed vertical on the deck for show

 

 

 

Centre section showing mast detail

Edited May 30, 2014 by Royal42

[outcastjack]

I can't comment on the silver bullet but the Silhouette portrait and I expect therefore its bigger brother is very good, I guess the answer is down to: what size of object will you need? And will you use the extra cutting power of the silver bullet?  The bullet gets very good reviews but if you don't intend to cut anything other than styrene on a regular basis it might be hard to justify the £500 price to the the portrait's more modest £140.
 

 

And that ship looks awesome, how long has it taken so far?

Edited May 30, 2014 by outcastjack

[pointstaken]

Unless someone disproves it, I would doubt that cutting brass on the Silhouette Cameo would work, or if it did it would ruin the cutter. You might get away with cutting brass shim, but 0.5mm brass sheet I would doubt it very much.

 

Also Model Railroader has now caught up with the times - June 2014, pages 36-37 Using a digital craft cutter. (Apologies if this has already been highlighted).

 

Dennis

Edited May 30, 2014 by pointstaken

[Royal42]

Thanks Joel and Dennis,

 

I suppose I was only looking at metal/brass for strength however plastic is my main medium so it could be that I stick with that.  The model ship is approx. 65cm long by 13cm high but apart from the flight deck I don't think any other item is over 10cm in length (just lots of them, especially the inner deck sections etc.)

 

I usually make sections for the hull, upperworks and inner sections in .5mm or 1mm thickness styrene, at about 5cm by 1cm pieces; plus strips for masts in .5mm thickness and 2 or 3mm wide strips.  This is where the tedium and inaccuracies kick in for me, when I need to hand cut lots of same size pieces and this is where I believe a cutting machine would help.   I do have lots of packets of styrene strips of all sizes and shapes but, just at the critical moment, I will find that I have run out of that particular size or shape  and have to wait until the hobby shop opens the next day (and it is 35 miles away).  To overcome this, I can cut strip sections from A4 styrene sheet but sometimes getting two lengths to stay exactly 2mm wide can be a problem for me.

 

Thanks again and I'm still hoping to hear from someone who may have experience of using a Bullet, just to confirm my thoughts.

 

Another question, in case I do go for the Cameo which sounds like it might be the case, is does anyone know who/where they can be obtained most economically (cheapest)?

 

Mike

 

[etendam]

I wouldn't recommend cutting brass, however if you can put an etch resistant pen in the cutter, draw on the brass and then etch the sheet. It will however be difficult to align when you turn the sheet and draw on the other side.

 

Ed

[Royal42]

..............And that ship looks awesome, how long has it taken so far?

Hi Jack,

 

sorry I missed your question earlier.  Truth is that I dabble at this ship in between other modelling subjects so it has been on the go for over a year.  I suppose in actual time it has taken about two months, but that is mainly down to my lack of knowledge on scratchbuilding.  I would start to cut or fit something and think "I'd better just check those measurements again" and so off I go on a tangent, looking through plans, books and searching the web!

 

thanks for the compliment, I hope that I will eventually get it finished and be able to display it in a nice case.

 

Mike

[Royal42]

Thanks Ed,

 

I think that I am fairly resigned to sticking with plastic ('scuse Pun!).  There is plenty of strength in styrene as long as I frame the gantries correctly etc.

 

I have been searching around the sites and looking at a few videos, on YouTube, on the features and benefits of the various machines and now think that I shall go for the Silver Bullet.  A few reasons; one was mentioned on here by Allan about line cutting etc., plus the videos of the Cameo make it sound clunky and noisy.

 

A lot more money for sure but I am thinking long-term, of having a quality machine which will cover most of my scratchbuilding requirements for quite a while.  I am now going to climb into the loft and dig out all my kits in the stash and have a "need a Silver Bullet sale" !  Sorry guys, the kits are all airy-planey or boaty things.

 

Thanks Jason for starting this thread, and everyone else who has enlightened me on the subject.  I have been truly amazed at the ideas and suggestions on how to cut this and laminate that and I am in awe of all your workmanship.  Most of your suggestions, although obviously railway oriented, can easily be utilised for scratchbuilding in other genre's, such as ship modelling and vehicles etc.  Thank you.

 

Mike

[pointstaken]

Looking at this web site -

http://underacherrytree.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/new-electronic-cutter-silver-bullet.html

 

Brass is not mentioned as a possible material for cutting with this machine.

 

Dennis

[Metalhip]

Thanks Ed,

 

I have been searching around the sites and looking at a few videos, on YouTube, on the features and benefits of the various machines and now think that I shall go for the Silver Bullet.  A few reasons; one was mentioned on here by Allan about line cutting etc., plus the videos of the Cameo make it sound clunky and noisy.

 

A lot more money for sure but I am thinking long-term, of having a quality machine which will cover most of my scratchbuilding requirements for quite a while.  I am now going to climb into the loft and dig out all my kits in the stash and have a "need a Silver Bullet sale" !  Sorry guys, the kits are all airy-planey or boaty things.

 

Mike

Hello Mike,

 

The Silver Bullet is considerably quieter than the Silhouette and a lot more robust,it's also bigger and heavier.The learning curve is also bigger.

There is also a forum in which you can get any queries or problems sorted,very often getting an answer in minutes.It does seem expensive,but I have no regrets after buying mine.

 

The Scal software is okay,but I've found Signcut to be better

If you get one,just get the blades and holders that come with it,identical blades and holders are available on ebay at considerably less cost as I have since found out.

 

Regards,Allan

[Royal42]

Hi Allan,

 

thanks very much for your helpful response,  I am just about to order a Silver Bullet (my wife has become exasperated with my pleas and said "Oh go on then.....  anything for peace and quiet"!).

 

I just have a couple of additional questions which you may be able to help with:

 

a.  what is the maximum thickness of styrene sheet that can be cut without causing overload (I've checked the videos and demo's but they just discuss card).

 

b.  there is a choice of machine sizes, with obvious higher costs, and was wondering whether the 13" (the max I think I can afford) was adequate for our scales of OO and N gauge?

 

Thanks again

 

Mike

[Metalhip]

Hi Mike,

 

I only have the 13" model which is adequate for A4 size,that's all I cut.

I've just checked the thickness of the plasticard I cut and it's 0.010" or 0.25mm thick,but I don't see any reason why it won't cut thicker,the machine can be set up to do five passes if required,

 

Just be aware your wife might want to use it if she does any crafting.

 

Might be worth contacting Dawn here.......

http://www.thymegraphics.co.uk/contact.asp

 

I collected mine,it was cheaper than the courier delivery.Just beware the box it comes in is larger than you might expect,had to lay it across the back seat in my car.

 

Allan

[Royal42]

Hi Allan,

 

I have ordered mine but have gone for being delivered as it would be uneconomical to drive all the way up from Somerset for it.

 

I spoke to Dawn and she was very helpful and explained a few items which clears a few points.  Just have to sit and wait for the brute to arrive!

 

Mike

[Metalhip]

Hello Mike,

 

It's sometimes very handy having someone on the end of a phone like that,it's more or less a 24/7 operation.

 

You'll be surprised at the size of the box when it arrives.

I got the extension tables for mine,not necessary but handy for supporting material,you can also get "Renu" sheets when your mat loses its stickyness,probably cheaper than keep using spray adhesive.

 

This is the same as the detail blade holder and blades..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HQ-Blade-Holder-5Pcs-60-Blades-for-Graphtec-CB09-Cutting-Cutter-Plotter-/230980823657?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c787aa69

 

Roland blades fit the standard holder you'll get with the machine.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15Pcs-45-HQ-Cemented-Carbide-Blades-Knife-Roland-Cutter-Cutting-Plotter-Can-Mix-/230926443663?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c449e48f

 

Just about any 14mm diam holder will be useable.

 

Allan

[Royal42]

Thanks Allan, that is good information for the future.

 

My cutter is due here tomorrow or the next day so I have been looking up some items to experiment with.  The bridge span section, image below, has been attempted by me on a few occasions using a knife but each ends up unevenly spaced.  Having seen some of the excellent bridge spans for the railway dioramas on here I would like to ask how would be the best way to prepare something like this for cutting?

 

I understand, from some of the comments on this thread, that I shall probably need to build up layers for laminating but I'm stumped as to which parts would form layer 1, 2 etc.

 

Again, I would be grateful for any helpful advice here.  The great thing is that I am learning stuff here which seems not to worry about which cutter is being used.

 

cheers

Mike

 

 

The actual bridge length is 80 feet and I have two projects on the go which could do with some of these being cut to 1:350 scale and 1:144 (or N if easier) scale.

[Royal42]

The cutter has just arrived so I have amended my vote to "Yes I have a cutter".

 

Thanks to everyone who has contributed helpful information on the subject, I am continually re-reading this thread as it contains so much relevant data.

 

cheers

 

Mike

[monkeysarefun]

Hi Mike,

 

I have a silver bullet cutter, its the 13 inch and is more than adequate for modelling tasks, especially given that the 13 inch limit is only in one direction, you can still cut long projects.. I think the larger cutters are aimed more at the craft and stencilling users such as T-shirt stencils and so on..

 

I bought mine intending to use it for model buildings and also for wooden ship modelling, cutting deck planks and so on from thin timber sheets. I haven't had a chance to try this yet because work has got in the way but I've been dabbling in styrene sheet, cutting intricate tiny patterns such as church windows. I will post up a couple of test peices when I take a photo...  I've tried styrene up to .25mm so far, multiple cuts are required but the cuts are clean and sharp.

 

I haven't tried brass sheet in it so far, mainly because I don't have a big supply of blades yet (they are quite expensive from the Australian supplier and I've yet to look into a cheaper source) and I'm thinking it would dull them rather quickly, but I might be wrong.

 

One other success I've had is to fashion a scriber out of some steel rod (technical name is 2mm nail..) and used it to scribe bricks into 320gsm artists paper. I'm happy with how this has come out and will post a picture of this too when I get a chance.

 

You won't regret the purchase, especially when you see how easy it is to knock out multiple copies of something, all identical. And if you do break or lose something you've cut out, it is no drama to just put in another peice of plastic and press the cut button again!

 

There is a bit of a learning curve involved in the settings, especially the force required for a given cutting job. The force range is 0  to 250 something or others so it takes a bit of trial and error working out what is the necessary setting.

 

My one issue is the software. I create the projects in Inkscape and cut with the supplied Sure-cuts-a-lot software and have found times when the cutting software will come up with an error when I press cut. It takes a bit of fiddling to work out why and is usually traced to being some property in the file, such as a line having a different thickness to the others, and in addition I've discovered that having different line colours in a file can stop it cutting as well. This can be frustrating when it happens and can take a while to trace, basically you have to delete elements until you discover which one is causing the issue, then working out why it is happenning (different line colour, different weight, rectangle not closed properly are some of the causes I've found). But with experience I'm learning what not to do so these instances are getting fewer!

 

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask here, because I'm sure I'll be doing the same.

 

PS:, Oh and I love the USB stick that comes with it - its a silver bullet!

Edited June 3, 2014 by monkeysarefun