Grasshopper John Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Yeah....and I hate Devon seaside resorts Specsavers spring to mind Horse, Or thats just far too subtle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Hello Roger, Your giving Jazz a run for his money, Your assembly is quick sir, I have assembled things inside out, and wrong way round, ( Artists have no idea about assembly IMHO ) but the good thing about soldering is it can be unsoldered, cleaned up and re-assembled, I know I'm getting quite good at it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Specsavers spring to mind Horse, Or thats just far too subtle ...for you, maybe! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 So what the ........ do I do now? The chasis is all soldered up and even if I can get these two items out they too are all soldered. Do I leave it as it is, in which case it will always bug me, or do I rip it all apart? or do I just bin it as I dread to think what other errors etc I am going to come accross. Either way I am distictly unhappy - how can such a well thought of kit manufacturer make such an elementary error? Think I will give it rest today and come back when my head is clearer. Sorry to have only spotted the issue so late on. As you say, the original instructions clearly illustrate the wrong arrangement. As to what to do, well, you could leave it and have the inside valve-gear to the left or you can try to get the two offending stretchers out without dismantling the whole chassis. It would require quite a bit of heat (perhaps a small gas torch?) but you would only need to pries the frames apart just enough to disengage the tabs - the frame thickness on each side. With the wheels out and staring with the inside cylinder rear cover it looks possible to me, unless there are other stretchers in the same area not visible in the photos? If it were my model, I think I'd try the latter approach but it's up to you. I can say that on the MN, the boiler comes so close to the top of the running plate up-stand (you can barely get your fingers in the gap), that the inside valve-gear is not readily visible from the outside, except the valve spindle support below the smoke-box. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium eldavo Posted July 12, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 12, 2015 You will Dave! ... But I won't tell anyone, honest! Any chance you could modify the cross member in place with a big drill? Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Could you cut it out with a cutting disc leaving about 1mm on each side attached to the frames. Then rebuild and refit the stretcher using strip attached above or below the bits you have left on the frames. Hope this makes sense Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Hello Doolish, if you are going to change the two spacers, it looks like you will have to spring the front of the main frames. That will involve breaking the joint on the front spacer (only one side). Then do the same to the next two spacers but you will have to do it on both sides, one good thing is that the tabs will only be the thickness of the fames. Not with the length of the twist part of the tabs as well. It will be a big job but it should not be imposable to do it. It's a pity as the build was coming along nicely. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 Have received a reply from MOK that simply states 'its an error that crept in when they were first written'!!!! Having thought long and hard I decided I could not let it ride as it will continually nag me so, armed with my resistance soldering iron, I attacked the frame and managed to get it out with a bit of a struggle. Disamantaling the actual assembly was another story altogether but after a lot of swearing managed to split it all apart and rebuild the correct way round. Fitting back in the frames was a little easier and together with the streatcher all is now back in place and correct. It has now grown some more wheels as I have completed the bogie. It will be intersting to see how this runs as to my mind it is totally over engineered - just how many ways can a bogie twist? Next will be the trailing bogie. I have started looking at the parts for the motion and note that apart from the coupling and connection rods they are all brass castings. Never come across these before - I assume they have to be sprayed 'steel'. Do you do this before assembling or after? Do I have to also spray the coupling and connecting rods so they match? Would appreciate comments from those that have built such kits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 That was soon sorted out! As if the kit isn't complex enough without a "curve ball" like that being thrown at you. Respec' JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Wow, that was quick! Well done - I'm sure you'll be glad you sorted it out now. Something like that would have niggled, even if no-one else spotted it. Regarding the valve gear, rods don't stay shiny steel coloured for long in service, quickly becoming sades of brown. Unless you're planning an ex-works showcase model. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Solder up, remove excess solder and blacken the brass? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KalKat Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Nickel plate perhaps? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 Limited production today as my back is killing me. Re quote that 'Your assembly is quick sir' I am currently recovering from an operation on my spine and as such am very limited in what I can do - not allowed to play golf for one, and so I am building to stop me getting bored. Today we have the rear bogie WWhilst it may look easy it was actually a pig to do as you have to bore out the cast springs to take the rod that passes through the chasis through the spring and then attached to a bar at the top that then gets hidden by the brass cover. In addition the instructions said fit part 121 to the front of the bogie - well part 121 is far to big so resorted to looking at fret to find something suitable (part 127). Don't manufacturers get people to test build from instructions? Now fitted to main frames - do like the small hooks on the frame that stop the bogie from drooping when you pick it up - may fit something similar to my BofB. Lastly I have two pet hates when reading reviews on kits - first is 'finished model will not fit in the kit box'. Do people seriously spend hundreds of man (or women) hours and money to keep the model in its box? Secondly are reviewers who throw half the kit away and get better components from elsewhere. So confession number one - I have today ordered a set of motion parts to be milled from solid nickle silver - have used them before on my Z class and they look great. What was that about practice what you preach! Next is the front section of the body. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Premier? I wonder why they aren't milled from steel? Nothing looks like steel, like steel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 ....reviewers who throw half the kit away and get better components from elsewhere.... Yes, well, sometimes the kit components might be crap. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 The front part of the footplate went together reasonably OK. Part No 120 was infact part 021 (reverses numbers as well as photo's. Had a problem with part 1095 as I could not work out how it fitted until I discovered that there are two parts 1095! Next in line is the brakes - always a problem on Bulleid Pacifics. Have an instruction ammendment here so thought all would be well. However the first job is to cut away the Pull Rod from the casting and also create a new yoke in its place. Now I know this is not a kit for beginners but this is enough to put some off. Also remove cast pin and drill for 0.8 wire. Completed two and fitted to frame. Next is the brake cylinder and came accross the following instruction ' The Brake Cylinder when attached to the chassis does not align as it should with the brake lever'!!!!! Next instruction says shorted a brake stretcher by 1.0 - inches, feet, meters? Yes I know its mm but! Realised it wasn';t my day when I couldn't make an Asda Fork - holes would not line up! May not do much over the next few days as its the Open. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 In the context of kits, 1.0 etc. tends to mean millimetres. Dave Bradwell uses the same notation in his 4mm kits. Doesn't seem to cause a problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 Have started the brakes but have made a decision regarding this blog. I will not carry on giving updates bit by bit but will show completed major sections only without too much comment. I find that I am being extreemly negative about the kit (and this still continues) but I don't want the blog to turn into an eternal rant. I purchased this kit on the basis that so many have said good things about MOK and I needed to build something during the wait for the long delayed 9F. I am seriously considering cancelling my 9F order and switch to the DJH one instead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Don't be to dissapointed in this kit as being a earlier one it isn't like the new one's, and I don't think the DJH one is any better from what I have been told. I have enjoyed reading your post's as I would like to buy the new one when it comes out. Len Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 ....I find that I am being extremely negative about the kit (and this still continues) but I don't want the blog to turn into an eternal rant. Bit late for that now! Alea est iacta. I purchased this kit on the basis that so many have said good things about MOK and I needed to build something during the wait for the long delayed 9F. I am seriously considering cancelling my 9F order and switch to the DJH one instead. Surely it's a question of patience and perseverance as well? And if you suspect that you don't have it.....then you don't have it! It's a bit like the bloke who used to be on this Forum who developed a reputation for building kits in OO at top speed. He then took on a Martin Finney kit, and was negative about it on the basis that it was too complex to build quickly, and shouldn't cater for EM or P4, thus completely missing the whole ethos of the kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doolish Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 Having build three Finney kits, being complex is not the issue. I also like a challenge (DMR kit Z class) but this is turning into something completely different. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Thanks for sharing this thread, your patience and persistence is to be admired. I have a soft spot for rebuilt MN's so can't wait to see the finished product. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 "I will not carry on giving updates bit by bit but will show completed major sections only without too much comment. I find that I am being extreemly negative about the kit (and this still continues) but I don't want the blog to turn into an eternal rant" By the above comment You are being negative not about the kit but about your content Doolish, This Forum Is so that novices like me can learn a thing or two from you more experienced modelers, Keep posting updates good or bad. If anyone Hijacks your thread negatively then tell them not to make a comment unless its to do with YOUR build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 If there are issues with the kit it's always good to see how these are dealt with. I've had a few rather truculent kits which I've battled with and beaten. In fact, going back through my own rolling stock thread, I've tended only to post stuff where I have struggled rather than straight builds ( and yes I have had the odd rant here and there!).MOK currently have a good reputation for well designed if complex kits so maybe it's just an early one with a few issues. I'm certainly enjoying your progress even if you aren't!!Please keep up the excellent work Jon F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 I agree with the above, it's FAR more interesting and enlightening to see how others tackle, and beat, problems, then just to see a straightforward kit build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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