david.hill64 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 My wish for a good day at the bench was realised! I made progress in three areas: completing the injectors, completing the body etched details and starting on the cast boiler. Having fitted the rather nice injector castings and piped them up, I thought it would be a good idea to check clearances as it seemed it would be tight to the rear drivers. A test fit showed a significant interference! IN this pictire the chassis still needs to go back by about 2mm but the piping is in the way. So I removed the offending pipe to see how much space there was. Apologies but the key part is slightly out of focus. So I re-routed the pipe and now it fits OK. Here they are finished. When fitting the frame supports/injector supports, take care to ensure they are not too far forward on the running plate: there are etched guides but I would recommend making sure you fit them within the guides but as far to the rear as possible. So apart from cleaning up, that completed the under-gubbins. A quick look at the etches revealed some other parts that I had missed completely. These were the beading for the cab doors and the infill piece for the doorway at the cab floor. SO I fitted these and the window surrounds. I also made up the frame for the sliding windows and added those. I started to fettle the boiler casting. It was a bit rough around the rear of the smokebox saddle and I have lost rivet detail in cleaning it up, but on the grounds that it isn't visible I am happy to leave it. The instructions warn that material may need to be removed from the rear of the boiler to get it to sit properly. I had to remove about 1mm from both sides where it sits on the tanks. The fit is much better now but still not quite right, so it will be out with the files when I get back to the bench. I spent time cleaning up the chimney and dome and the smokebox internal fittings. I drilled out the small holes along the top of the boiler ready for the pins that presumably represent the bolts holding the boiler cladding in place. Annoyingly I broke a .5mm drill in one of the holes: that took some getting out as it had broken flush with the surface. In the last two photos the boiler and its furniture are just placed, not fixed. Beginning to look the part now I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 This is coming on nicely, you certainly did have a good day. I also had a lack of space around the rear driver for injector pipe work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkallan Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 David, well done! She is starting to look the part. The Piercey detailing is excellent and Vera is going to be a stunner! Bet that you are itching to get on to the motion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 It has been another good day at the bench today. Surprisingly as I woke up with a fever this morning and have been doing myself on cold remedies. I assembles the tube plate and superheater header to the smokebox floor. The blast pipe is not yet fixed. I then cleaned up other parts for the boiler. With that done I added the 0.55mm wire to teh boiler top and cut them back to the same height using a bit of scrap etch as a jig. I also added washouts, safety vales and snifting valve. Next up was the smokebox door. The only problem here was that teh dart was too short, so I drilled it out and added a piece of 0.7mm wire to form the lock. With that done I then glued the boiler in place. Next will be some gap filling and tidying up, then on with the detailing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Excellent work, David. Coming along nicely with some lovely detail. Regards, Deano Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 It has been a case of one step forward and one step back today. I spent a little time filling some small holes in the boiler casting and gap filling to get a good blend between the boiler casting and tank tops. I then made up the cab roof, forming it to shape in the rollers and adding the roof detail and location lugs. The rear of these fits inside the toolbox above the bunker, so it is important to clean up any solder inside that so that the roof sits properly. I was quite pleased with this but still have the gauges to add inside. It was only then that I noticed that the smokebox wasn't sitting centrally on the running plate. I wondered how this could be as it is located by a screw and nut. The answer is that the hole in the smokebox casting is offset by just under 1mm. I felt such an idiot for not checking that. So I removed the boiler. Fortunately the epoxy glue hadn't quite set rock hard so I was able to remove it without damage. I now have to decide whether I will just open out the hole in the smokebox floor or fill it with whitemetal and re-drill. Probably the latter. I am relieved to have noticed that now while it was still repairable without damaging anything, and annoyed with myself for not checking it before fitting. Don't trust hole locations in large castings! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 So tonight has been drill a hole in the smokebox night! First I marked out the position of the required hole from the front of the smokebox. Great precision is not required as the screw will fit in a slot in the running plate. Then I cleaned up the brass to remove traces of glue. And then cleaned up the boiler, taking the opportunity to sand down the filler where it was being used to fill blemishes in the casting and filled the old locating hole with low melt solder. I then filed the solder flush and measured the location of the new hole equidistant from the smokebox sides. Then drilled a pilot hole and checked the location. That being OK I opened it out in stages to 2mm and tried the fit on the running plate: much better! The bottom of the smokebox sides are now equidistant from the edge of the running plate. So took it apart and applied epoxy, checking that the rear was aligned between the cab windows and holding it in place with firm pressure until the glue had set. Then put aside to cure overnight. I then returned to the cab roof and fitted the gauges. Just needs cleaning up then that part done. So if the boiler fit looks good tomorrow I'll finish the smokebox interior and fit the petticoat pipe, chimney and dome. There may be some small gaps to fill where the boiler casting meets the etching, but these will be less than last time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkallan Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 David to David! Hi, I was wondering if you could fix it so that the cab roof could be easily detachable? Not a problem if it is a thing that would spoil the overall quality of the finished article. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 David to David! Hi, I was wondering if you could fix it so that the cab roof could be easily detachable? Not a problem if it is a thing that would spoil the overall quality of the finished article. David David: no problem. The roof is designed to be removable. At the front it fits in this recess: At the rear it fits in the toolbox. It would probably be worth using small lumps of blutak (or similar) in the inside corners. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 I was happy with the fit of the boiler and spent a few minutes cleaning up the excess glue before removing the tubeplate and fitting the steampipes and blower pipe. For this the blast pipe was placed in position but not fixed. The assembly was then located in the smokebox and the petticoat pipe soldered in place. Then I glued the dome, chimney and blastpipe in place. The blower pipe needs to be properly located. As well as locating the blower pipe,I need to add the ejector pipe. I have tested the run from the cab to the smokebox. I needed to remove a little metal from the tank top handrail knob. To me it looks like the ejector pipe will fit better behind the left hand steam pipe before curving round to the petticoat pipe, but the DJH pictures show it passing in front of the steam pipe, which will require some sharp bends. Does anybody know the proper routing? I really feel now that the bodywork is on the home straight, but there is still a lot to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Superb workmanship! The overall quality of the kit is very high but still requires a lot of skill and effort to get the best out of it. I built the DJH BR 2-6-0 some years ago and the cast boiler saves a lot of time. I can't believe I'm saying it,but I think the resin castings from JLRT are even better. That's assuming all their kits are up to the same standard as the 57xx I'm currently building. What's your opinion? Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 I built the DJH BR 2-6-0 some years ago and the cast boiler saves a lot of time. I can't believe I'm saying it,but I think the resin castings from JLRT are even better. That's assuming all their kits are up to the same standard as the 57xx I'm currently building. What's your opinion? Cheers, Peter The only kit with a resin boiler I have built was the Finney A4 and that was superb. I think there is a lot to be said for the use of resin, but it may depend on the prototype. The Connoisseur J36 or the Gladiator (must get a plug in ) D11/2 worked well with the rolled brass and that will save a lot of money compared to a casting. I hope to get involved with a JLRT kit soon but the current build list does not include one! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 Yesterday was a nicely productive day at the bench. Finished the smokebox interior: Added handrails, ejector pipe,tank fillers (should have fitted them before the ejector pipe), sandbox fillers, bits at the bottom of the smokebox and steam pipes. Also cab sandbox caps, brake standard and driver's seat. I also spent time drilling out the various castings ready for the pipework. With a following wind I will get the body finished today ready for painting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkallan Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Looks great! Nice work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 This morning managed to see the plumbing done, so now it is final check that all parts are in place, gap filling as required, then clean up and prime. I may just wait until I have piped the backhead and can cut the ejector pipe to length before spraying. And I had better check that the chassis still fits! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Lovely pipe work, lovely build!! Regards, Deano Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockershovel Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Fascinating thread. I can quite see why O Gauge is enjoying such a revival Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkallan Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Great skills there, David! Lovely job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 The check that the chassis still fitted showed the need (not unexpected) to clean up the soldering under the running plate where the lubricators sanders etc had been fixed. There are a couple of learning points that I think are worth pointing out. I think that the cylinders are probably about half a mm too high: I guess that the slots in the frames were not etched quite deeply enough, so they are an interference fit with the valance. It doesn't help that I think that the valances are a wee bit inboard of where they should be. This is a function of how the bend forms in the under section of the running plate. I would recommend scoring the half etched line deeply as close to the outer edge of the etch as possible to make the valances as wide as possible. I would also suggest not soldering the frames together until the running plate has been formed so that all of the fits can be checked properly. Next time! Haymarket had three V1s so I never know my luck! With that job done it was time to equip the backhead. I am 99% sure that the photo in the instructions shows the gauge glasses fitted upside down, so I went with my instincts and fitted them the other way. This led to a problem with the top cock interfering with the regulator cross rod, so I had to 'adjust' the cock position. I also found out that the locating hole for the steam brake valve is too high in the casting causing the valve to interfere with the ejector casting. Of course I found out after I had plumbed the steam brake.......so re-plumbing was required. The slacking pipe will have to be glued on as I cannot see a way of soldering it without serious risk of damaging the whitemetal casting. I have also yet to fit the wheels on the injector castings. Plus of course clean up the soldering and paint as required. So I need to do those small bits and then clean up the body ready for priming. I think all of the gap filling has been done, but the primer is good at revealing areas for improvement. I've promised to deliver this in time for the Reading show, so the clock is ticking! providing that there are no significant problems with the valve gear all will be well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 When looking back at this post earlier today I became convinced that Vera had turned into a camel with a hump in the middle. At least one of the photos seemed to show the running plate at the front of the tank to be higher than at the buffer beam.It rather put me off the day job so keen was I to get home and check it out. Fortunately a quick check with the ruler showed it to be an illusion so I breathed several sighs of relief. No pictures today. I spent some time at the kitchen sink cleaning the loco which will get a coat of primer before work. Better to do this in the morning before the humidity sets in. I also finished off the backhead bar painting. I then turned my attention to the chassis. The axles were all checked individually for free running with spacing washers added on every axle. It took some time to get it right as the washers were a bit thick and I couldn't find any thin ones in the bits box. The file had to be brought into play to take some metal off the slide bars and motion bracket. I had thought that I might need to trim the brake hangers a little as well but it's OK. My test track has been enhanced by the addition of two Peco points forming a reverse curve and several lengths of straight. (Much better than the 18" I had before!) and I am pleased to say that even with all axles spaced out (bit like me with this strong G&T in my hand) the chassis negotiates the reverse curve well. I plan to build everything up excluding the motor/gearbox, test that it is free rolling and then strip down and rebuild with the gearbox in place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 I can quite see why O Gauge is enjoying such a revival Having started with 0, my extensive collection of 00 stuff is in danger of disposal. It really is very satisfying. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 ....I can quite see why O Gauge is enjoying such a revival It's probably a little less taxing on the eyesight.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 It's probably a little less taxing on the eyesight.... Yes and no...............if you are building a Martin Finney A4 in 4mm that will definitely be harder on the eyesight than the same in 0! But in 0 there is always the temptation to add those little details that would never appear in 4mm. And i am sure that if I started in gauge 1, I'd be making the same arguments!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Not so's you'd notice, you just put more detail on. Enjoyed this thread, the G&T sounds appealing too. For my 60th my wife bought us a fortnight in Barbados. It was all inclusive, but after three days I was cocktailed out, so stuck to G&T. I remember sitting on the verandah one night with a friend, G&T in hand, tropical night sounds all round us, when he turned to me and said, "I don't like it Carruthers...the drums have stopped...it's too damned quiet!" Every G&T now reminds me of that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 It certainly looks the part. I must say there is no comparison in detail and quality between the DJH and the ACE one. But for the money and a little work the later is not bad value. I also was constantly checking the footplate on mine, I think there must be some illusion due to the shape of the loco Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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