micklner Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Is the cab front fixed? as it appears to be buckled at the base, hence the large gap between it and the firebox. Is this a secondhand kit, as there appears to be a huge number of detail parts missing ? Re the Tender there appears to be a lot of solder "blobs" where the Tank meets the Footplate ? A needle file will clean them up nicely before a top coat . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Is the cab front fixed? as it appears to be buckled at the base, hence the large gap between it and the firebox. Is this a secondhand kit, as there appears to be a huge number of detail parts missing ? Re the Tender there appears to be a lot of solder "blobs" where the Tank meets the Footplate ? A needle file will clean them up nicely before a top coat . Believe it or not, there is an art to building these things imperfectly - the full-size things didn't always look perfect when in service, and there were dents, bulging sheet metal, bent footplates and steps and so on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 (edited) Is the cab front fixed? as it appears to be buckled at the base, hence the large gap between it and the firebox. Is this a secondhand kit, as there appears to be a huge number of detail parts missing ? Re the Tender there appears to be a lot of solder "blobs" where the Tank meets the Footplate ? A needle file will clean them up nicely before a top coat . Good afternoon, Mick - always good to hear from you. The gap is simply a result of the firebox lying loosely on the footplate. When fitted to the firebox and held by the bolt through the saddle, the gap disappears and, miraculously, the footplate, boiler and cab stay parallel. I don't see a buckle in real life.... The kit was new direct from LRM. I think "missing" parts are simply a case of age and higher expectations raised by the like of North Eastern Kits. I know others have criticised this and the J21 kit, and I understand it was not designed by George Norton, but rather "inherited" by him. There are, in fact, quite a lot of detailed etch parts .dotted around the 3 frets but they sometimes took a bit of tracking down, at least by me. I wanted to try to fill the cab which otherwise would look a bit bare, and prefer a plasticard cab floor to avoid shorts - there is an etch but it would require metal removed to clear the wheels and scribed to represent the wooden floor. Solder blobs --yes, there are a few which will be tackled by the usual needle file, scraper ,fibreglass pencil methods. I suspect I keep fibreglass pencil refill manufacturers in business singlehandedly... John Edited December 27, 2017 by rowanj Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 When fitted to the firebox and held by the bolt through the saddle, the gap disappears and, miraculously, the footplate, boiler and cab stay parallel. I don't see a buckle in real life.... Honest - but I'm not convinced by the curve on the rear of the cab roof. Why do things that look ok in the flesh seem odd on a digital photo? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Good looks much better in the latest photo. Hard to tell from photos what is on occasion straight curved etc. Some photos make the model in general look like a Banana. No idea why, modern lenses perhaps !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted December 28, 2017 Share Posted December 28, 2017 John, A photo of a J25, three quarter view, which does show the curve of the cab roof. Happy New Year to you. Cheers Mike 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted December 28, 2017 Author Share Posted December 28, 2017 Thank you Mike, that is a useful photo. Another addition not supplied in the kit, though easily fabricated, is the reinforcing bar where the firebox meets the footplate, On the RH side of the firebox, there seems to be some pipework emerging from the cab to a point near the rear washout plug. It is small points like this which add to the pleasure of building these kits. Today has seen a bit of work on the boiler. The outer layer of the smokebox has been fitted, along with handrails. I'm not totally convinced by the chimney and dome, even though they are lovely brass castings .I have a whitemetal Dave Alexander set which look more like the photos I have, including 65967 which is my chosen loco. This loco will have the later 69A boiler, with the dome moved back towards the cab. I expected to have to mark all the points to drill the holes for the dome, Ross Pop valves and whistle, trying to keep them all in a line and central to the boiler. However , when drilling the etched marks which show the location of the handrail knobs, I happened to look under the boiler and noticed similar etched marks for the dome - both 69 and 69A positions, and safety valves. That makes life much easier Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 The boiler is fixed to the footplate at the saddle, but not yet at the cab.The loco is held at the 3-way splitting distant at what will become Little Benton North, but is able to proceed, I'm glad to say, either West towards Benton and Newcastle, East to Backworth then either North to Ashington or down the coast to Tynemouth, or straight ahead up the ECML towards Edinburgh. There is a short at the front live driving wheel, and an occasional spark on a wheel at the tender, Neither seem critical, and I'll bolt the loco and tender chassis to the respective footplates and test again .However the loco and tender ran both forward and backward through the pointwork in the fiddle yard without either stalling or de-railing, so all looks as though it will be well. There are no sandpipes in the kit, but these are prominent on Mike's photo above, so these will be fitted. Pity I'd painted the chassis.... I'm much happier with the Dave Alexander chimney and dome than with those supplied in the kit. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 (edited) John, It may be the photo but the firebox profiling doesn't look exactly right. The two sides of the firebox should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the footplate, at the lower extremities of the firebox wrapper. At what point, in the build sequence, do the instructions suggest fitting the front and middle pairs of splashers? With the chimney and dome, it really is well worth the time to get the seating as tight on the boiler and smokebox top as possible. Cheers Mike Edited December 31, 2017 by mikemeg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 Mike. At the point at which the photo was taken, the boiler was attached to the footplate only by a bolt through the smokebox saddle. In the meantime, I have tweaked the firebox as you said,and as shown in the photo you posted of the prototype. The order of assembly is . footplate,cab,splashers,boiler.Actually, splashers and boiler are done in sync,using the bolted boiler to check positions for the splashers. I agree about the chimney and dome. At the moment, they are just perched on the boiler, but I like to see them there because it starts to look like a complete loco, even though there is still a fair bit of detailing to do. Cheers and good wishes for 2018 John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 (edited) John, Another photo of a J25; this time showing the right hand side. This loco would have been pretty similar to your model, being 65695 against your 65697. They would both have been built at Darlington and both would have had the 'piano' valve chest cover and, by the early 1950's, the 69a boiler with the re-sited dome and one less boiler bands. This photo clearly shows the profile of the front guard irons, the NER tapered buffers (packed out from the buffer beam to accommodate the LNER draw gear) and the profile of the front sand pipes as well as all sorts of other details. Cheers Mike Edited January 2, 2018 by mikemeg 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Ready for a final rub-down before the first coat of primer. The chimney is not seated correctly and will be attended to. Still some work to do on the chassis. the loco runs well, and the boiler has been packed with lead and tested on a 16 wagon pick-up goods and looked the part under the "2-foot rule" as it emerged from under the bridge onto the limited scenic section of the layout. I'll post the final photos once painting is completed - Railmatch weathered Black- and Archers Rivet transfers have been applied to the smokebox and the cab. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 John, Another photo of a J25; this time showing the right hand side. This loco would have been pretty similar to your model, being 65695 against your 65697. They would both have been built at Darlington and both would have had the 'piano' valve chest cover and, by the early 1950's, the 69a boiler with the re-sited dome and one less boiler bands. This photo clearly shows the profile of the front guard irons, the NER tapered buffers (packed out from the buffer beam to accommodate the LNER draw gear) and the profile of the front sand pipes as well as all sorts of other details. Cheers Mike Hello Mike, John's thread has encouraged me to make a start on my own LRM J25. Many years in the waiting. Your 2 photographs have already proved useful. There are buffer collars provided with the kit bolts. From your photographs you can see that 65693 has 4 bolts on each buffer collar. However, 65695 has 4 bolts on one and 8 on the other. Obviously things could change after maintenance but it is likely to influence my decision on prototype or will encourage me to check if I go for another loco. Thanks, Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Hello Mike, John's thread has encouraged me to make a start on my own LRM J25. Many years in the waiting. Your 2 photographs have already proved useful. There are buffer collars provided with the kit bolts. From your photographs you can see that 65693 has 4 bolts on each buffer collar. However, 65695 has 4 bolts on one and 8 on the other. Obviously things could change after maintenance but it is likely to influence my decision on prototype or will encourage me to check if I go for another loco. Thanks, Bob Bob I'm sure you will enjoy building the kit. I have a request in to LRM for a N8/9. When I finish the paintwork, I'll try to make a short list of what I added to the J25. One thing to note now is that the Slaters buffers, though perfectly fine in themselves, have squared shoulders, so I used a set of whitemetal ones from the spares box, I believe Markits do a more accurate set. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Alan Gibson versions are good and easier to obtain. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 I think I'm getting there ,,,,???? 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Looking very nice John. I have to say I think the LRM kits are very good and with care build up into nice models. Good work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Bob I'm sure you will enjoy building the kit. I have a request in to LRM for a N8/9. When I finish the paintwork, I'll try to make a short list of what I added to the J25. One thing to note now is that the Slaters buffers, though perfectly fine in themselves, have squared shoulders, so I used a set of whitemetal ones from the spares box, I believe Markits do a more accurate set. John John, Are you saying that buffers do not come with the kit? I've had a look and there are no buffers in mine so I'll have to buy some. It isn't unusual for me to take parts from one kit and use it on another so I'm not sure that the shortage is down to me. If LRM don't supply buffers that is certainly a bit off. Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) John, Are you saying that buffers do not come with the kit? I've had a look and there are no buffers in mine so I'll have to buy some. It isn't unusual for me to take parts from one kit and use it on another so I'm not sure that the shortage is down to me. If LRM don't supply buffers that is certainly a bit off. Bob Interesting you say that. In my two D2 kits there are no buffers included. I'm going to give John a call and ask him, as it does say in the instructions there should be some. It's not a deal breaker but it would be good to have some if they are available. Edit: I like Alan Gibson buffers for smaller LNER buffers and Markits for Pacific buffers. Edited January 4, 2018 by grob1234 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Interesting you say that. In my two D2 kits there are no buffers included. I'm going to give John a call and ask him, as it does say in the instructions there should be some. It's not a deal breaker but it would be good to have some if they are available. Edit: I like Alan Gibson buffers for smaller LNER buffers and Markits for Pacific buffers. I've just ordered a set of Gibson buffers (via Wizard Models). I looked at the Markit's site and it looks as if they don't do NER tapered buffers. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Can anyone tell me if the Alan Gibson NER tapered loco buffers have the bolted collars as an integral part of the casting/turning (whatever is the process)? If so, I won't need to attach the etched collars included with the LRM kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Can anyone tell me if the Alan Gibson NER tapered loco buffers have the bolted collars as an integral part of the casting/turning (whatever is the process)? If so, I won't need to attach the etched collars included with the LRM kit. These are Gibson NER tapered buffers, so looks like you'll need the collars. HTH. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 These are Gibson NER tapered buffers, so looks like you'll need the collars. HTH. LRMJ36.JPG That's a very nice build. Lovely workmanship. Thanks for your help. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted January 4, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2018 These are Gibson NER tapered buffers, so looks like you'll need the collars. HTH. LRMJ36.JPG I'm no expert on GN locos but shouldn't it have parallel ones? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I'm no expert on GN locos but shouldn't it have parallel ones? Good spot. Most of them do, but the J3 class had a mixture of parallel and tapered, this locomotive having the latter. I even have photographic evidence to prove it (unusal for me as I usually build first and ask questions later!) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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