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The Bridge at Remagen - N Gauge Rhine Crossing in 1944.


Al.
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Wow. I have just read through the whole blog

What a fantastic display of modelling first class it simply is fantastic enjoyed seeing the transformation and Weill keep tabs on this in the future

Well done truly wonderful

Thanks. Glad you appreciate it.

 

Still a lot of work to do before it's ready for Warley.

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On a brighter note, the river is looking good. Six costs of varnish later I think we're nearly there. This one is still not quite dry do a bit white in places. By tomorrow evening it'll be ok.

 

post-23643-0-59463300-1476635335_thumb.jpeg

 

Al.

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More river update.

 

It's all dried nice and clear. I've placed the boats back in place and 90% happy with the results. They still need a bit more getting to get them right. As you can see on the second picture of the paddle steamer, it's now sitting a little bit high.

 

post-23643-0-94240900-1476736133_thumb.jpeg

 

post-23643-0-88738400-1476736153_thumb.jpeg

 

Al.

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Got into test running last night. It was a bit of a mixed result.

On the plus side, train ran and all section switches worked. Although my track is filthy and is in need of a serious clean.

On he minus side, none of the points worked! Not good. They worked ok earlier in the week, but that was with power fed direct to them. Job for the next couple of nights is to sort this.

 

Al.

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Hi Al, I've been an irregular visitor to this thread but having been to Remagen have always found it interesting. I've just paid another visit and have been blown away by your river surface. I've got about 2 sq. metres of tidal river to do for Lancaster Green Ayre and don't fancy using bottled products in small expensive quantities. The toiler paper method appeals to me and I've been inspired to have a go.

 

I'm going to be at Warley so will certainly come and have a look at the layout during the weekend.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Jamie

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Jamie.

Thanks for your comments.

 

I prices up the 'off the shelf' stuff for the Rhine and it was coming in at over £100...

The toilet paper method has works really well, plus it has the added advantage of being a lot lighter then the resin stuff, which is a bit blessing on a portable layout.

 

The only down side I'm finding, is for months I've been using the river board for ad-hoc storage. Now, it's 'Ah, that can't go there. Damn...! Where do I put it...?'

 

 

Al.

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The following photos may well be no use for you at all but they were taken at the start of a weeks holiday in July 1989 at Remagen:

 

post-7112-0-83432100-1477048243_thumb.jpg

 

post-7112-0-85091300-1477048230_thumb.jpg

 

post-7112-0-11737600-1477048277_thumb.jpg

 

You may be able to use the photo of the plaque with your layout description.

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Right, an update on the wiring.

 

I've investigated the point motor issue and I was happy to confirm my wiring is all ok. The problem lies with the point motor and points.

 

I have power to the motors, and they operate fine by themselves. However, once attacked to the underside of the points, they fail to throw them. I'm using seep motors and taken great care to set them centrally on the throw. The issue seems to be too much resistance in the points.

 

Has anyone else encountered this?

What are thought on removing the spring from the points as a solution?

 

 

Al.

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Questions:

 

  1. Are you using Capacitor Discharge Units (CDU) to provide a good bit of Oomph to the Seeps without risk of overheating them?
  2. Are there long runs of thin wire to the point motors? (a few yards of fine wire and connectors can soon build up to a few ohms, possibly halving the voltage at the motor)
  3. Are the Seeps mounted as close to 90 degrees to the track as possible?

Ian Morgan

Hampshire

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Very nice layout. And excellent modelling.

 

Funny you should mention that about SEEPS as I had, or rather, still have, the exact same problem with mine.  I only had about a foot of wire between the power and the motor, and it was installed correctly, but it worked fine off the point, and failed to completely throw on the point.

 

I'd be interested to hear how you fix it, or if you need to use different motors.

 

Cheers,

William

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Questions:

 

 

  • Are you using Capacitor Discharge Units (CDU) to provide a good bit of Oomph to the Seeps without risk of overheating them?
  • Are there long runs of thin wire to the point motors? (a few yards of fine wire and connectors can soon build up to a few ohms, possibly halving the voltage at the motor)
  • Are the Seeps mounted as close to 90 degrees to the track as possible?
Ian Morgan

Hampshire

I'm using an All Components Ltd HD CDU.

The cable runs are long at about 6 meters. Currently wired in 7/0.2 wire.

Point motors are set right. I sent ages doing that bit.

 

I've got a second CDU which I'll Swip out this evening and retest. However I suspect I'm getting too much power drop between panel and points.

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I'm using an All Components Ltd HD CDU.

The cable runs are long at about 6 meters. Currently wired in 7/0.2 wire.

Point motors are set right. I sent ages doing that bit.

 

I've got a second CDU which I'll Swip out this evening and retest. However I suspect I'm getting too much power drop between panel and points.

Hi

 

7/0.2 wire is too thin for this you should be using 16/0.2

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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You could try a temporary fitting of thicker wire, or combining 2 or 3 lengths of thinner wire, to prove the diagnosis.

 

I would avoid removing the built-in Peco springs unless you have other means for locking the points once thrown. Some Seep motors do include over-centre springs.

 

Ian Morgan

Hampshire

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You could try a temporary fitting of thicker wire, or combining 2 or 3 lengths of thinner wire, to prove the diagnosis.I would avoid removing the built-in Peco springs unless you have other means for locking the points once thrown. Some Seep motors do include over-centre springs.Ian MorganHampshire

The will be the start point for further diagnosis.

Thanks for all the advice. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Al.

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