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Scratch-built card and styrene structures (based on real buildings around London Bridge)


grahame
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I think they are to big.

Most columns have a return of the curve that goes behind the half way point which gives the impression of a separate item.

Bar-B-Que stick or similar laid in a groove cut in the wall panel to reduce the projection outwards is my first thought.

Plastic tubing, electric cable (would be difficult to get straight) with the wire removed are a few other things that come to mind.

 

Yep, agree they're too wide and flat. 

 

I'm now going to go with these - made from old paint brush handles. They're still a little wider than I'd like but they have more undercut definition rather than the flat semi circular section of the earlier effort:

 

post-33-0-04332400-1534529750_thumb.jpg

 

G.

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Next is to think through a solution, then make and add the two 'difficult/tricky' features - the domed roof section and the ionic capitals. And then steel myself for adding all the thin strakes on the domed and sloping roof facings.

 

post-33-0-32882700-1534578075_thumb.jpg

 

G.

 

 

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Capitals are now made. They're probably a little big and basic but bearing in mind this is a N/2mm model in reality they are tiny things and the building will be hidden away at the back of the layout behind a viaduct . . . . Nonetheless, I might try to file them back a bit so they are less prominent:

 

post-33-0-22789100-1534587198_thumb.jpg

 

G.

 

 

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Progress has slowed down although I've got some paint on, the windows in and weathering powders added. I've still to make the ground floor picture windows and doors plus the domed curved roof section but will make that as a separate pre-painted assembly and simply glue it in place. I think I'll probably carve it from some balsa wood but need to go to the local model shop to get some. Then I'll seal it with PVA, rub it down, and prime and paint it when smooth.

 

Anyway here's the latest:

 

post-33-0-26008800-1534619864_thumb.jpg

 

G.

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I thought I'd try and explain why these buildings have a deep 'basement' included. It isn't really a basement but the first two storeys of the buildings which stand with their ground floor at a lower level than the road at the front. To the left of the pub/bank is a sunken garden (at that ground floor level) where Southwark cathedral stands and to the right of Bridge House is Tooley Street which passes under Borough High Street at right angles. Borough High Street runs at the higher level along the front of the buildings at the door height - I've added a temporary pavement (of the higher road level) to show where this is in the pic below. Borough High Street gently rises to the right and becomes London Bridge over the Thames.

 

Overall this will be the back left hand corner of the layout.

 

post-33-0-80327400-1534694214_thumb.jpg

 

G.

 

 

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Loving this as I live only a few hundred yards away ... Thought it was about time I said so.

Ooooo . . . Interesting. Do you have photos of the area from the 1980s?

 

And hopefully I've not taken too much liberty with my interpretive representation of the buildings with all the compression and simplification. It's never going to be a finescale accurate replica - it's N/2mm after all.

 

G

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Ooooo . . . Interesting. Do you have photos of the area from the 1980s?

 

And hopefully I've not taken too much liberty with my interpretive representation of the buildings with all the compression and simplification. It's never going to be a finescale accurate replica - it's N/2mm after all.

 

G

Sorry, only lived here since 98. The Harvard study library on Borough High St has a collection of old photos of the area ... or did - not been in for a fair few years now.

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I've acquired a length of 3/4" square section balsa wood and have started to bash it in to shape for the domed roof section - and I think it might just work. So far I've marked and cut off the length I need:

 

post-33-0-02587600-1534762126_thumb.jpg

 

It's a little larger in section than I need so I marked up the amount needed to trim off along with the curves:

 

post-33-0-76019400-1534762213_thumb.jpg

 

Then I set about it with a scalpel fitted with a new sharp blade and a sanding stick. Balsa cuts easily but is very messy to carve and sand so I did most outside with continually checking back for fit and look. It was surprisingly quick to get to this stage and so far I'm quite happy. But next is the fine sanding down and sealing. Then it's adding all those strakes . . . . 

 

 post-33-0-35505200-1534762376_thumb.jpg

 

G.

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After sanding it as smooth as possible, I used super-glue (rather than PVA) to seal it as it dries quicker and harder. Then it was sanded again, primed and another layer of superglue, sanding and priming. The strakes were added from plasticard strips and another couple of coats of primer applied. It's not perfect - there are some blemishes - but it should do as it is supposed to represent an old roof structure that probably isn't perfect itself. Anyway here is how it looks (in grey primer) in place although it's not yet glued in place:

 

post-33-0-84074800-1534782999_thumb.jpg

 

G.

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After sanding it as smooth as possible, I used super-glue (rather than PVA) to seal it as it dries quicker and harder. Then it was sanded again, primed and another layer of superglue, sanding and priming. The strakes were added from plasticard strips and another couple of coats of primer applied. It's not perfect - there are some blemishes - but it should do as it is supposed to represent an old roof structure that probably isn't perfect itself. Anyway here is how it looks (in grey primer) in place although it's not yet glued in place:

 

attachicon.gifDSC_6493.JPG

 

G.

 

 

It may not be perfect (what is?) but it looks pretty impressive to me! Also impressive is the way you knock out this stuff in double quick time with great facility and accuracy. 

Clicking on "like" is just not enough.

 

Chaz

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You at TINGS on the Saturday?

Jo

I've got my ticket so pending any disaster I shall be at TINGS, but it's likely to be the Sunday when it's quieter. However, I've not yet decided.

 

G

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This morning I've been getting some basic blocks of colour on to my heavily compressed low-relief version of Southwark cathedral (see earlier in the thread around page 21 for details of construction).

 

This model will be mostly hidden by the road along the front of it and the viaduct across the left side so I'm not too concerned about lots of detail - if necessary they can be added later should it look out of place. I've tried to go for muted colours with a limited palette and an overall look without having to paint each individual stone block (with their subtly different colours). However, perhaps it needs toning down with a light grey from an air-brush, but that will have to wait until I've got it out.

 

The pic below shows how it relates to the bank/pub building along with a snap of the real thing which shows the liberties I've taken with the model although hopefully it's redolent of the real thing:

 

post-33-0-77549400-1534936583_thumb.jpg

 

post-33-0-97643100-1534936688_thumb.jpg

 

G

 

 

 

 

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Rather than getting the airbrush out I've managed to tone down the colours to give an overall homogenous misty distance look using a Halford's grey primer aerosol. I'm quite pleased as it's pulled it all together although it's more difficult to notice in photographs. I dusted the spray over from quite a distance outdoors. Several passes were required:

 

post-33-0-43716800-1534940998_thumb.jpg

 

G.

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Hi Graham

 

I have been reading through this topic for a couple of days now and have so far read 18 pages. There is some seriously great modelling here,especially as it's in 2mm. I look forward to wading through the rest, as this is truly inspirational modelling.

 

Thanks SS.

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The cathedral works really well, as you say the grey pulls it all together. The low relief look is very clever. Really really tempting me to look at the buildings for the next layout, but we've just moved and I have no modelling equipment, no broadband for research or anything. Just have to carry on with the 1:1 scale modelling!

I'm there doing DEMU with Mr Mansell, if you do end up coming Saturday.

 

Jo

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This morning I've been getting some basic blocks of colour on to my heavily compressed low-relief version of Southwark cathedral (see earlier in the thread around page 21 for details of construction).

 

This model will be mostly hidden by the road along the front of it and the viaduct across the left side so I'm not too concerned about lots of detail - if necessary they can be added later should it look out of place. I've tried to go for muted colours with a limited palette and an overall look without having to paint each individual stone block (with their subtly different colours). However, perhaps it needs toning down with a light grey from an air-brush, but that will have to wait until I've got it out.

 

The pic below shows how it relates to the bank/pub building along with a snap of the real thing which shows the liberties I've taken with the model although hopefully it's redolent of the real thing:

 

attachicon.gifDSC_6495.JPG

 

attachicon.gifP1090699.JPG

 

G

Certainly effective, but I wonder if at a future date you will feel the need to revisit the windows? They are noticeably different to the original in style and overall feel. I don't know if the change of material from limestone to flint is significant or not given the its reduced prominence.

 

I suppose it all depends on how far you want to go.

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The windows were the nearest fit from the York Modelling laser cut Rowmark range. They didn't have exact matches and I didn't feel up to cutting them individually myself. I've not found anyone else who offers such a choice and range. So it's a compromise I'll have to live with until anything more suitable turns up.

 

G

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The windows were the nearest fit from the York Modelling laser cut Rowmark range. They didn't have exact matches and I didn't feel up to cutting them individually myself. I've not found anyone else who offers such a choice and range. So it's a compromise I'll have to live with until anything more suitable turns up.

 

G

Ah. makes total sense now.

 

Other options might be to deal with the details graphically though I fully understand if that doesn't appeal. I have also seen some pretty impressive results using a silhouette cutter ...see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79025-a-guide-to-using-the-silhouette-cameo-cutter/ - the portrait is the cheapest option. But you do need some basic CAD skills.

 

Anyway, as I said ... it does work as is  :good:

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