Southern Railway Modelling - Miscellaneous Project work

[John Tomlinson]

Update!

 

Nothing too exciting, took some photos on the club layout the other night.

 

 

 

The finished H, had to remove the spacer in the rear bogie to get both drivers to sit level on the track, now she runs perfectly!

 

 

 

Also working on getting this to look like it's in ex-works condition, the issue isn't as bad in person, but those wheels look so bad in photos. A repaint is needed I think. There are drain-cocks and front steps, but the loco won't negotiate the clubs corners with them in place so they're absent for the photo.

 

LSWR gate stock:

 

 

 

This is nearly finished externally, just waiting on the run of transfers from fox with the sunshine 'THIRD', I've painted the interiors, waiting on passengers to paint up and add, and a driver for the cab end.

 

 

 

 

I also realized that the open third I have was missing one of the footsteps on the bogie. I made one out of plastic card last night, decided not to make the front bracket, as the angle was a bit tricky to form in plastic, and brass wire didn't look right. Once painted it should look ok though. I also tried a light weathering on the roof of the open third.

 

That's all for now. Much of the same, need to start kit-building. 

 

Thanks for reading!

 

May I ask about the open third please. Is it part of a push-pull set and the screw coupling is at the loco end? If this is the case, would you know if the coupling on the prototype between the coaches was a buckeye (Kadee) or screw link.

 

I wonder this as I recall you fitted Kadees on  Southern main line stock, as do I, and attaching to the next coach would be quite tricky under a corridor connector.

 

The Schools in the following post looks a lot, lot better for having the wheels painted.

 

John. 

[Jack P]

May I ask about the open third please. Is it part of a push-pull set and the screw coupling is at the loco end? If this is the case, would you know if the coupling on the prototype between the coaches was a buckeye (Kadee) or screw link.

 

I wonder this as I recall you fitted Kadees on  Southern main line stock, as do I, and attaching to the next coach would be quite tricky under a corridor connector.

 

The Schools in the following post looks a lot, lot better for having the wheels painted.

 

John. 

 

Hey John, I just use the shortest coupling 'rod' that Kernow provided with the gate stock. 

 

I did ask about couplings in the Gate Stock thread and was advised that they wouldn't have been the knuckle type. Just your normal screw-link type, I assume this wouldn't have been too much of a common inconvenience as the stock probably wouldn't have been separated much, i'm not an expert on this though.

 

Thank you re; the wheels, I think they look much better too. Might have to do the rest of the fleet!

[Jack P]

Quick update,

 

After painting the wheels on '902' I decided to airbrush the spares I had with the recently arrived railmatch Malachite. I think it looks rubbish, maybe it's pre-war malachite? The humbrol Malachite I had was much better, but reacted very badly to the Tamiya Enamel thinners I had, and is now just a gritty paste. I definitely need to mix my own. Painted the whistle on the M7, also gave it a very light weathering. Replacement motor ordered too, so hopefully it will be running soon!

 

 

Had a Play around with one of my KA tenders, giving the insides a weathering to represent the worn, and sort of rusty look the interior take on. 

 

 

This was really just a practice as I also decided to convert this loco to oil firing. This is the initial tender tank. I'm not 100% happy with it, I think now that I have the measurements I might do another one. I suppose it would also be relatively simple to have 3D printed. but it's ok as an initial test. I also plan to do a T9 at some point too.

 

 

I found the book 'Urie & Maunsell Cylinder 4-6-0's' to be invaluable as far as research and detail photos, as well as Graham Muz's own model for the top of the tank details (yet to be added). will finish off the tank and then move on to the generator and other gubbins for the 'face'. This example will be renumbered as 748 'Vivien' which was also one of the class that was fitted with a Lematire chimney.

 

I also woke up early Saturday, to escort someone to the airport, which meant I was up in time to bid on an N15x Nu-Cast Kit,

 

 

Which I won! I'm super excited to receive this, it will be my first proper foray into kit-building. The aforementioned book will also be extremely helpful as it has plenty of detailed pictures of N15x's, which was a pleasant surprise!

 

I am also on the lookout for LBSC oval headed buffers to suit the front, I was thinking that maybe the Markits Oval coach buffers might do, but i'm open to any direction.  I'm also looking for where I could get the required lining (black/yellow, post war malachite) - and name suggestions! Thinking of 'Stroudley' at the moment.

 

I also appear to have accidentally bought a full 5 car 1934 Brighton Belle set, completely by mistake... 
 

That's all for now, as usual thanks for reading!

Edited February 18, 2019 by Jack P

[Nile]

Liking the oil fired conversion, something you don't see often.

[DLT]

I've just finished going through your thread Jack, and I have to say what stunning work!  Your storage siding must look like an ocean of Malachite Green!  Beautiful stuff.

I haven't added "likes" etc, as I would probably get a repetitive-strain-injury from constant mouse-clicking, and break the website.

 

I will be very interested to see your work on the Remembrance kit, I saw it on Ebay and considered bidding for it.  It went for a very reasonable price I think.

 

All the best, Dave.

[Jack P]

Thanks guys, 

 

Neil, the oil firing conversion is certainly not something you see often, I printed out some reference photos, and it's always been in my 'roundtuit' pile. i'm glad I made a start!

 

Dave, thanks mate! Being on RMweb is so very helpful, because I can reference other excellent modelmakers, yourself included, and take away tips and tricks from them. I wish I had storage sidings, just storage boxes. I feel it will be a while until I have anywhere permanent to keep things, there is plenty of Malachite though.

 

I will be sure to report back on how the build goes, I note that the kit comes with wheels, but I may replace them still, depending on how good they are. Might bump that reasonable price up a bit though! I also plan to use a Hornby Urie tender, inspired by your current build!

 

Thanks again guys. Will hopefully update soon!

[Jack P]

Update!

 

I took some advice from Brocp (who's excellent weathering thread you can find here) In regards to what products he uses, so with a few new powders on the bench I gave the M7 another going over:

 

 

 

and had another crack at the Adams radial;

 

 

I feel like i'm getting there, Now I just need to devise a process.

 

Also getting close to finishing off the oil burning conversion. I wasn't able to find many details on the tender tank front, but I know there was one toolbox instead of two. I might've got a bit overboard with the shelf, I figure the crew would need somewhere to put their tea!

 

 

 

 

I'm still not sold on archers rivets. They are a good idea in theory, but they refuse to stick to the surface, I only got these ones to stay with some clear varnish. Pressfix would be a much better idea I reckon!

 

 

This is where I must admit that this is not as close to the original as I would like. I wasn't able to represent the small wires running from the smokebox 'Halo' to the electric lights, nor could I get the 'Halo' to sit far enough out without going oval. I also think the wire I've used between the front lights is a bit thick. I'm hoping that some paint will hide my sins, not to mention the monstrosity that is the electrical generator that i've made.

 

Will update again soon!

 

Thanks for reading, as usual, any feedback or opinions are appreciated! 

Edited May 20, 2018 by Jack P

[Northroader]

Alex, if you go in an artists shop and buy some pastel chalks, light brown, dark brown, red brown, black. Then take them home and rub them on a sheet of emery paper to get powder. You just spill over the model and brush in with a dry brush. For a heavier weathering you can mix into a paste with water and paint this on, then brush the surplus off when it’s dry. If you don’t like the effect, it will wash off with soap and water.

[Brocp]

Hi Jack,

 

I tried in vain over the weekend with Archer rivets and had a shocking time. I won't give up on them in the future, but with the model i was using them i won't bother.

 

The N15 looks great though, painting and weathering the wire will make it look more scale. You'll certainly have a unique and great looking model at the end of it.

 

Ps cheers for the shout out.

[chris45lsw]

I've just finished going through your thread Jack, and I have to say what stunning work!  Your storage siding must look like an ocean of Malachite Green!  Beautiful stuff.

I haven't added "likes" etc, as I would probably get a repetitive-strain-injury from constant mouse-clicking, and break the website.

 

I will be very interested to see your work on the Remembrance kit, I saw it on Ebay and considered bidding for it.  It went for a very reasonable price I think.

 

All the best, Dave.

I did bid for it but you beat me to it, Jack!

 

Chris KT

[Jack P]

Alex, I'm sure the crew would find it useful! I'm just not sure how prototypical it is. Also it was Bulleid that fitted the electric lights, the whole conversion was done due to the shortage of coal in 1946, so there was an initiative to retrofit oil-burning facilities to a bunch of T9's and N15's. There's some interesting information floating around out there in regards to which engines received it. The N15's were re-instated into service after having the oil burning bits removed, but the T9's were withdrawn. I'm sure I found a photo of an L11 with an oil burner in the tender though, so more research is needed.

 

Sorry Chris, it arrived safe and sound this morning though! Didn't have a chance to look inside the box, but I did manage this quick snap!

 

 

Update to the Oil burning conversion:

 

 

 

 

 

The generator is a bit crooked, but it looks fine from regular viewing distances. All she needs now is a number and nameplates, I haven't represented the electric lighting in the cab yet, I need to check some reference photos to see what's present. I will see if I can get to the club at some point soon and pose it there, against a more scenic backdrop! The rivets turned out ok, you can still sort of see the carrier film though. I've ordered some microsol/set to see if that helps with adhesion. I agree with you Broc, I haven't ruled out using them entirely, they are a great idea, just frustrating to use sometimes. 

 

Will update more as it happens. Hoping to make a start on the N15x tonight. 

[Brocp]

It's come up very well mate. I use microset/sol all the time on pressfix transfers making them bascially become water slide, it's great stuff.

 

The Arthur will look great all weathered up mate, excellent job.

[Jack P]

Just a quick update tonight,

 

N15x unpacked, and all of the bits i'm using from the kit sorted into baggies. 

 

 

Cleaned up the frames and cleaned up the edges

 

 

I plan to get the frames assembled first and get a nice free-rolling chassis, then get the body sorted. While I'm waiting for a chassis jig to turn up I'll be working on the boiler castings, getting them as round/square as possible, then i'll attempt to whitemetal solder them! Scary! I may have just gone and bought another kit too.. jeez.

 

before I forget, can anyone tell me if these are insulated romfords? Based on my understanding of insulated wheels, I don't think they are - but my understanding could be way, way off!

 

 

Thanks everybody for all the likes/feedback on the oil burning conversion! 

As usual thanks so much for reading!

Edited May 22, 2018 by Jack P

[John Tomlinson]

Just a quick update tonight,

 

N15x unpacked, and all of the bits i'm using from the kit sorted into baggies. 

 

 

Cleaned up the frames and cleaned up the edges

 

 

I plan to get the frames assembled first and get a nice free-rolling chassis, then get the body sorted. While I'm waiting for a chassis jig to turn up I'll be working on the boiler castings, getting them as round/square as possible, then i'll attempt to whitemetal solder them! Scary! I may have just gone and bought another kit too.. jeez.

 

before I forget, can anyone tell me if these are insulated romfords? Based on my understanding of insulated wheels, I don't think they are - but my understanding could be way, way off!

 

 

Thanks everybody for all the likes/feedback on the oil burning conversion! 

As usual thanks so much for reading!

 

I don't think these two are insulated.

 

I see you have a bag of six, presumably with the kit, and many folk would use three insulated one side, three uninsulated the other. If you lay the six out together, on the insulated ones you should be able to see a brown line between the tyre and spokes casting, this apparently is a thin piece of paper insulation. By putting the six out together the difference should be apparent. If not post a pic and we'll have a look!

 

John.

[Northroader]

Do you have a multimeter or has someone at your club?, just do a resistance test, or a continuity test using the beeper. One probe on the wheel centre, one probe on the rim. By the look of your picture there’s one of each there. Normally I paint the wheels early on in the assembly, then pick out the insulated ones, and put a dab of bright paint on the back where it doesn’t show. That way I can see they’re all on the same side as I progress, otherwise I'll be scratching my head when I do a test run. Then, of course, it’s sorting out which side goes to the pickups.

[chris45lsw]

Alex, I'm sure the crew would find it useful! I'm just not sure how prototypical it is. Also it was Bulleid that fitted the electric lights, the whole conversion was done due to the shortage of coal in 1946, so there was an initiative to retrofit oil-burning facilities to a bunch of T9's and N15's. There's some interesting information floating around out there in regards to which engines received it. The N15's were re-instated into service after having the oil burning bits removed, but the T9's were withdrawn. I'm sure I found a photo of an L11 with an oil burner in the tender though, so more research is needed.

 

Sorry Chris, it arrived safe and sound this morning though! Didn't have a chance to look inside the box, but I did manage this quick snap!

 

 

Update to the Oil burning conversion:

 

 

 

 

 

The generator is a bit crooked, but it looks fine from regular viewing distances. All she needs now is a number and nameplates, I haven't represented the electric lighting in the cab yet, I need to check some reference photos to see what's present. I will see if I can get to the club at some point soon and pose it there, against a more scenic backdrop! The rivets turned out ok, you can still sort of see the carrier film though. I've ordered some microsol/set to see if that helps with adhesion. I agree with you Broc, I haven't ruled out using them entirely, they are a great idea, just frustrating to use sometimes. 

 

Will update more as it happens. Hoping to make a start on the N15x tonight. 

Yes eight L11s and one D15 were converted to oil burning as well as thirteen T9s.  None of them were re-converted to coal firing.  The two West Countries, five Urie N15s, one N and two Us which were converted to oil did, of course, return to coal firing. 

 

Where did the lovely Lemaitre chimney turning come from, Jack?  Lovely work as usual, Jack, but now I'm going to rain on your parade, I'm afraid!  None of the oil fired Ni5s had the multiple jet blast pipe - only 736, 737, 741, 752 and 755 which, of course were never oil.  748 was one of five more which were planned to have Lemaitres but it never actually happened in practice.

Sorry!

 

Chris KT

[Jack P]

Thanks for the replies Re: the Romfords, I can confirm that none are insulated, I do wonder if it might be worth my while getting some insulated ones, I haven't really paid much mind to the idea of electrical pickup.

 

Chris, If I don't laugh i'll cry! No, thank you very much! I have quickly amended the issue:

 

 

Although I need to tweak it slightly and then go over again with the airbrush. I had no idea that there were West Countries that were a part of this, which two were they?

[Denbridge]

Thanks for the replies Re: the Romfords, I can confirm that none are insulated, I do wonder if it might be worth my while getting some insulated ones, I haven't really paid much mind to the idea of electrical pickup.

 

Chris, If I don't laugh i'll cry! No, thank you very much! I have quickly amended the issue:

 

 

Although I need to tweak it slightly and then go over again with the airbrush. I had no idea that there were West Countries that were a part of this, which two were they?

regarding the romfords: it seems a bit weird. The usual is for 3 insulated and 3 plain in most kits. My own preference is to use insulated all round.

[chris45lsw]

Thanks for the replies Re: the Romfords, I can confirm that none are insulated, I do wonder if it might be worth my while getting some insulated ones, I haven't really paid much mind to the idea of electrical pickup.

 

Chris, If I don't laugh i'll cry! No, thank you very much! I have quickly amended the issue:

 

 

Although I need to tweak it slightly and then go over again with the airbrush. I had no idea that there were West Countries that were a part of this, which two were they?

 

regarding the romfords: it seems a bit weird. The usual is for 3 insulated and 3 plain in most kits. My own preference is to use insulated all round.

21C119 Bideford was converted between 16 June & 26 July 1947 and S21C136 Westward Ho between 9 Dec 1947 & 28 Feb 1948.  21C119 went back to steam in Sep 1948 (as 34039) and S21C136 in Nov 1949 (by then as 34036).

 

Chris KT

[Wickham Green]

21C119 Bideford was converted between 16 June & 26 July 1947 and S21C136 Westward Ho between 9 Dec 1947 & 28 Feb 1948.  21C119 went back to steam in Sep 1948 (as 34039) and S21C136 in Nov 1949 (by then as 34036).

 

Chris KT

"... back to steam ..." ??!? ........ OK, we know what you meant !

[Mallard60022]

That Arthur is the dog's b######s and yes, what is that Lemaitra chimney as it is beautiful, sharp lines and a lovely shape?

Lovely work on the Oil Tank jack. Ref the Archers Rivets, could there be a prep method for the surface on which they will be set? I've not used mine yet (for the first time)  on Plasticard fittings on a Van I'm doing so I can't advise on using them on a plastic surface. Someone must have though? Graham Muzz?

Phil

[chris45lsw]

"... back to steam ..." ??!? ........ OK, we know what you meant !

Another 'senior moment' which I noticed at the time and I would have sworn I changed it to 'coal' as I intended :-)

 

Chris KT

[Jack P]

That Arthur is the dog's b######s

 

Thanks Phil, I'm not happy with some of the compromises, but until I get better, it'll do! Glad I got the chimney right!

 

regarding the romfords: it seems a bit weird. The usual is for 3 insulated and 3 plain in most kits. My own preference is to use insulated all round.

 

I'll have to have another look, it was late. I was thinking of going fully insulated too though. Does it make the wiring side of things easier?

 

Edit: For all those asking, the chimney is a PDK item, used here on 900 'Eton'

 

Edited May 24, 2018 by Jack P

[Podhunter]

 I was thinking of going fully insulated too though. Does it make the wiring side of things easier?

You must have insulated wheels on at least one side of the chassis.  Otherwise, your loco will short-circuit your power supply when placed on the track!

• If you build your loco with insulated wheels on one side of the chassis:  On that side, you must add springy current collectors also insulated from the chassis.  When placed on the track, the current collectors draw power from the corresponding rail.  The uninsulated wheels draw power from the other rail and the chassis, which is electrically connected to those wheels, is electrically live.
• If you build your loco with insulated wheels on both sides, you will need two sets of springy current collectors, one set for each side.  With that arrangement the chassis does not play a part in current distribution.

[Northroader]

British practice is usually all wheels insulated, and pickups both sides. American practice is usually insulate wheels one side, then you can get locos with insulated wheels one side, tenders insulated the other side, and then no pickups, but the drawbar needs to be insulated with a jumper lead tender to motor. The same thing can also be done with the two bogies on a diesel. The British method means you get the maximum number of contact points for picking up, although bogies and pony trucks are a faff to fit pickups to, and can get missed.