Paint job gone wrong on cut and shut model. Advice needed.

[peak experience]

I've been building a OO gauge cut and shut MK1 BSO. I've used superglue and a liquid solvent in the construction (it's called'Mr Cement'). The painting stage has gone wrong and I need to return it back to bare plastic and start again.

Can anyone offer any advice regarding paint removal without the model falling apart and all the delicate detailing falling away?

Can anyone recommend  paint strippers that can be picked up on the high street? I don't have a model shop close by.

Edited January 9, 2018 by peak experience

[peak experience]

Is it possible to rub down the paintwork, gently and just reapply a primer perhaps or will a primer not stick to the paint? It's rail match paints from an aerosol I've been using. 

[hayfield]

Phoenix Paints do a paint stripper which is plastic friendly

[Enterprisingwestern]

Solvent cement should fuse the plastic body parts together and superglue should be strong enough to resist paint removal liquids, so I should think you shouldn't have any problems as long as you don't use aggressive strippers, or leave the model in the solvent for too long.

 

Mike.

[Phil Bullock]

Or start off with something non solvent based - oven pride is an alkaline gel which I have used in the past. No guarantees though am afraid!

 

Phil

[Guest Model.Maker]

Original Dettol works fine for me, never had a reaction in anyway with glued joints nor putting top coats on, providing the shell is very well cleaned and allowed to dry naturally

[PaulCheffus]

Phoenix Paints do a paint stripper which is plastic friendly

Hi

 

However this will break the superglue bond so I would be wary of using it in this instance. It also damages filler making it go soft.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[peak experience]

Hi

 

However this will break the superglue bond so I would be wary of using it in this instance. It also damages filler making it go soft.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

That's useful to know. There is some filler used

Edited January 10, 2018 by peak experience

[Signaller69]

Hi, is it the paint finish itself that is the problem? Or Varnish top coat that has bloomed? T-cut colour restorer (from auto accessory shops or supermarkets) used as per instructions will remove bloomed acrylic varnish without affecting underlying paint or adhesives/filler etc in my experience (although it will remove transfers in the process), I used this method on my class 126 cut & shut when the varnish bloomed. It would probably work on straight paint finishes too but care would be needed to ensure all the rubbing doesn't put pressure on joints causing them to fail. It needs to be thoroughly cleaned off before any further paint is applied too.

 

Martyn.

[Junctionmad]

isnt the normal recommended brake fluid not usable ???

[ColinK]

I’ve used the paint stripper made by Delux Materials specially for models. I certainly didn’t cause any problems on a Lima Deltic body.

 

They attend exhibitions or you could contact them for advice. They showed me some useful tricks with their superglue at Ally Pally.

[Daddyman]

isnt the normal recommended brake fluid not usable ???

Should be, but the correct type - Dot 4 IIRC - isn't always easily available, depending on where you live (though Wilkinson's is a good source). Dettol is easier to find and takes the same time and gives the same results. But it really, really stinks. 

 

The Phoenix liquid went through a phase of attacking plastic a few years ago (a few people on here reported similar results) and I stopped using it. Plus, it's overpriced compared to brake fluid and Dettol, and you pay 7 quid to get it posted. 

 

All this assumes you need a full strip. If not, Signaller69's suggestion sounds good. 

[Neil]

In the past I've used Mr Muscle oven cleaner on plastic with success. Pop the model in a plastic bag (big food bag) spray all over with the cleaner, seal the bag and leave for about an hour. Scrub paint off with an old toothbrush if loose, if not reseal and leave a bit longer. No problem with Milliput, epoxy resins or solvent welded joins. Unsure about other fillers (wasn't using them at the time) or superglues (rarely use even now).

[peak experience]

Many thanks for all your suggestions. I think i'm going to the T-cut method, suggested by Signaller 69, on the parts where the paint has bloomed and hopefully a full strip down won't be required.

[Signaller69]

Many thanks for all your suggestions. I think i'm going to the T-cut method, suggested by Signaller 69, on the parts where the paint has bloomed and hopefully a full strip down won't be required.

I had one further thought. If it is just a small area of bloom, an even easier way to remove it is to rub a tiny amount of olive oil into it and the white bloom will disappear, which is fine if you don't want to apply any further varnish but further coats could be problematic. I have tried this myself and it does work, and doesn't require as much rubbing as the T-cut method, but does need cleaning off after application of course as it gets everywhere otherwise.

[TheSignalEngineer]

Should be, but the correct type - Dot 4 IIRC - isn't always easily available, depending on where you live (though Wilkinson's is a good source). Dettol is easier to find and takes the same time and gives the same results. But it really, really stinks. 

 

 

Halfords have Dot 4.