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My/our coach, carriage & wagon scratch building thread


gobbler

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Evenin' chaps been tinkering these last few hours.

 

quick Q.

 

Can you tell the difference?

 

Before

IMG_7846.JPG

 

After

IMG_7866.JPG

 

Is it worth doing the other side?

 

Your thoughts........please

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Hi Scott,

 

Both look great, I really wasn't sure what you'd done differently in your earlier post, and I'm still not really, a bit like a "spot the ball" competition!

 

I'm cluthing at straws, even with the photos magnified about 3 times actual size, is the beading in the second photo slightly "softer"/ more rounded? Or is just a quirk of the camera?

 

Both look damn good to me in any case!

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Martyn........bang on

 

Took a good few hours, is it worth doing the other side

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Thats a tough call Scott! My knowledge of prototype beading is limited but if it was me, for the amount of work involved getting the beading off, cleaning up and then fitting new, I would say no as you can only see the one side at any one time. I guess the ten million dollar question at this stage is whether it would be more obvious when painted; unless you plan to gloss varnish it, though even then I don't think it would show so much as to warrant the work involved.

 

Just my thoughts anyway.

 

Martyn.

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Evenin' chaps been tinkering these last few hours.

quick Q.

Can you tell the difference?

 

Is it worth doing the other side?

Your thoughts........please

 

I think the after looks slightly better, and suggest you do it that way in future. Not sure if it is a big enough difference to show under a coat of paint, but if it was me, I know I would regret not bringing the other side up to the same standard at some point in the future. You really don’t want to be reworking it once the Model us painted and “finished”.

If you are the kind of person who doesn’t get irked by this, then don’t bother, but if you are...

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I think the after looks slightly better, and suggest you do it that way in future. Not sure if it is a big enough difference to show under a coat of paint, but if it was me, I know I would regret not bringing the other side up to the same standard at some point in the future. You really don’t want to be reworking it once the Model us painted and “finished”.

If you are the kind of person who doesn’t get irked by this, then don’t bother, but if you are...

Cheers Simon,

 

Started doing the other side lunch time. The beading is still over scale but I think it looks better.

Should have this side finished later.

 

I bought some railmatch crimson today. I'll add the sole bars before the body gets painted.

 

Soon as that's all dry, it'll be time to add the windows and time to make a start on the roof.

 

Thanks for your comments

 

Scott

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It is always a difficult question. I was tempted to say, “Since you are asking, it obviously bothers you so the answer is to do it.” But then I realised I could also say, “Since you are asking, you obviously cannot tell them apart so the answer is not to bother.” I managed, in the words of Hull’s finest songsmith, to see both sides of both sides... ultimately these are questions of personal thresholds.

 

At least your question had a definite focus: I’ve seen plenty of people ask for layout plans without any idea of what they actually want to achieve, other than a vague sense of location and era...

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Well......,,,, I went for it.

 

Have now finished the scraping of the beading on both sides. A light coat of primer to see if there are any blemishes that stick out like a sore thumb.

 

To my eyes, with the thinned down beading, it looks more refined, although still over scale.

 

Have put the buffer beams and sole bars on. Couldn't resist putting the bogies on.

post-2873-0-09629700-1519420772_thumb.jpg

 

She's taking shape quite nicely and is starting to look the part

 

What do you gents think?

 

Cheers

 

Scott

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Looks good.

Don’t worry about it being overscale: it will help define the shadows, a bit like having embossed brickwork when if you scaled it out, it would be all but flat.

 

Besides, you can always gradually refine things each time you build a new one.

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Well......,,,, I went for it.

Have now finished the scraping of the beading on both sides. A light coat of primer to see if there are any blemishes that stick out like a sore thumb.

To my eyes, with the thinned down beading, it looks more refined, although still over scale.

Have put the buffer beams and sole bars on. Couldn't resist putting the bogies on.

attachicon.gifIMG_7881.JPG

She's taking shape quite nicely and is starting to look the part

What do you gents think?

Cheers

Scott

Just three letters - WOW!

 

Tim T

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Well......,,,, I went for it.

Have now finished the scraping of the beading on both sides. A light coat of primer to see if there are any blemishes that stick out like a sore thumb.

To my eyes, with the thinned down beading, it looks more refined, although still over scale.

Have put the buffer beams and sole bars on. Couldn't resist putting the bogies on.

attachicon.gifIMG_7881.JPG

She's taking shape quite nicely and is starting to look the part

What do you gents think?

Cheers

Scott

Scott, are you planning to use the Bill Bedford method of doing the roof?

 

Tim T

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Scott, are you planning to use the Bill Bedford method of doing the roof?

Tim T

What's the Bill Bedford method?

The picture below shows at least 4 roofs

post-2873-0-68110700-1519462117.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Edited by gobbler
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And there I am thinking I'd made it up myself.

 

If you click on my suburban coach thread you'll see how I've done the roofs before.

 

The, heat the plastic over a former method I've spectacularly failed at several times.

 

I've found this way to give the most consistent results

 

Sco

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Well......,,,, I went for it.

 

Have now finished the scraping of the beading on both sides. A light coat of primer to see if there are any blemishes that stick out like a sore thumb.

 

To my eyes, with the thinned down beading, it looks more refined, although still over scale.

 

Have put the buffer beams and sole bars on. Couldn't resist putting the bogies on.

attachicon.gifIMG_7881.JPG

 

She's taking shape quite nicely and is starting to look the part

 

What do you gents think?

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

Absolutely first rate. Treating the beading as you have done does I believe make a considerable difference. I have had a similar experience with a 7mm exGE cattle wagon with it's outside framing, and it will look better when painted in comparison to one that wasn't. The 'squareness' of the beading shows up to a greater extent once painted and rounding it off/breaking the edges makes it appear smaller and flatter.

 

With regard to the various plasticard sheets available, I understand that Slaters is a harder mix than Evergreen, this showing up by cutting producing raised ridges which need scraping/sanding off, which doesn't happen with the latter make. Sheets from Javis - which many shops stock/sell - seem to vary, some being very soft and others the exact opposite. This makes gluing a lottery at times. I have 5thou evergreen that will melt away before your eyes with anything more than the merest hint of glue.

 

Looking forward to seeing the coach painted finished.

 

Izzy

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Well, next instalment, a few things have moved on.

 

On one end I've put some some door bumpers

 

The coat of crimson

 

The black on the sole bars and bogies

 

And the security bars in the windows.

 

post-2873-0-99476400-1519574989_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Scott

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