My/our coach, carriage & wagon scratch building thread

[dseagull]

What took you soooooooooo long dseagull????

You just need a decent drawing and off you go, please give it a go.

Post your pic's and ask as many Q's as you like.

If you start your own thread post it here too.

Scott

To be fair it hasn't been continuous, a lot of 'life' has meant several lengthy spells out of the game, so to speak!

 

Anyway, have ordered an old issue of a magazine with scale drawings of a coach I would like to try, so will give it a go.

 

One question on marking out - you say to mark out on the rear, but how do you ensure the dimensions/position of windows etc is correct when you then flip over to the 'clean' side? Would it not be easier to lightly mark out on the front?

 

Thanks

[gobbler]

You can mark out on the front, but any slips means more tidying up afterwards. Because I add 0.5mm or so for the tumblehome, I find it easier to mark out from the cant rail. You may have noticed earlier in the thread I cocked up with marking out the windows for the milk/luggage van. Luckily most of the bodge was hidden by the beading

 

The end panels (which are 0.75mm longer than the internal spacers) all sit inside the length of the body panels. This makes it easier to cut a couple of strips all one width to help ensure continuity of the width. As I use 0.75 for the bulk of the build the width I cut is 1.5mm less than the overall body dimension. After all the spacers and end panels are cut all the same, I mark out the shortened height, on all but two, but don't cut the excess off until I have profiled them all.

 

If you mark out on the front you got to be bang on.

 

What coach you thinking of making?

 

If your an LMS or LNER/GE your well catered for by Nick Camplings books. Keep an eye on eBay and batterdalebooks.co.uk because the prices do fluctuate

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

P.S any more Q's don't hesitate to ask

Edited March 2, 2018 by gobbler

[gobbler]

Done a smidge more...,,,,the 'V' hangers and associated equipment.

 

You'll also notice a bit more done to the queen posts.

 

A little bit of tidying up here'n'there and a lick of black.... bobs yer' uncle

 

And a full side shot

 

That'll be it for tonight

 

Comments always welcome

 

TTFN

 

Scott

Edited March 2, 2018 by gobbler

[brossard]

Hi Pete,

 

followed the link scanned through the pages and found this.

IMG_7909.JPG

 

Is this the tool your talking about?

 

Will take my time tonight and read thread more thoroughly. Some really nice work ;

 

All the beautiful work on the above thread is 7mm/O gauge?

 

Scott

 

Olfa do a purpose made "scrawker".  https://olfa.com/professional/product/plastic-laminate-cutter-pc-l/ I find it very useful for scribing lines to simulate planks.

 

John

[dseagull]

You can mark out on the front, but any slips means more tidying up afterwards. Because I add 0.5mm or so for the tumblehome, I find it easier to mark out from the cant rail. You may have noticed earlier in the thread I cocked up with marking out the windows for the milk/luggage van. Luckily most of the bodge was hidden by the beading

 

The end panels (which are 0.75mm longer than the internal spacers) all sit inside the length of the body panels. This makes it easier to cut a couple of strips all one width to help ensure continuity of the width. As I use 0.75 for the bulk of the build the width I cut is 1.5mm less than the overall body dimension. After all the spacers and end panels are cut all the same, I mark out the shortened height, on all but two, but don't cut the excess off until I have profiled them all.

 

If you mark out on the front you got to be bang on.

 

What coach you thinking of making?

 

If your an LMS or LNER/GE your well catered for by Nick Camplings books. Keep an eye on eBay and batterdalebooks.co.uk because the prices do fluctuate

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

P.S any more Q's don't hesitate to ask

 

Thanks, that does make it clearer - I'm looking at an LBSCR 54' Brake Third (3rd Picture Down); http://www.iwsteamrailway.co.uk/bogie-carriages.aspx . I've kindly been sent a copy of a 1960's article to build a 9 Compartment All Third from two Triang/Hornby GWR Clerestorys as well, so quietly building up some useful resources for a planned layout.

[gobbler]

Dseagull looks an attractive coach to build.

 

The beading below the door level looks fairly straight forward, the radii on the tops of each window and the panelling above the window level will be interesting to do.

 

Look forward to seeing your progress

 

Scott

[gobbler]

A tad more this morning

A lick of paint and fitting the 'truss' ??

 

 

Can't do much else until I get the buffers and vac pipes

 

So while that's on pause you may have seen the GER passenger rated cattle van earlier on in this thread.

 

Have done all these in my van during lunch, probably not the best place to model, but with an hour to waste what better way eh?

 

Had 'height' issues with a couple of the spacers but the can be packed out and used inside. Also had a smidge of trouble with my first two ends (top two) the panels looked too fine. The bottom two with the pen marks have come out much better. So for the next couple of posts it'll be the cattle van

 

TTFN

 

Scott

Edited March 3, 2018 by gobbler

[gobbler]

And here's the sides freshly scribed.

 

All dimensions taken from Historic carriage drawings Vol 3, non passenger coaching stock

 

Should be a fairly straightforward build as theee vehicles didn't have a tumblehome, straight sides are so much easier to do.

 

Seeya later

 

Scott

Edited March 4, 2018 by gobbler

[gobbler]

Thought I'd have a window open for a little bit more interest

 

The sides and internal spacers are now all glued together.

 

Now to tinker with some grills

 

TTFN

 

Scott

Edited March 4, 2018 by gobbler

[gobbler]

So my vent tinkering

 

Some 0.25mm thk cut off a length and then chop off loads of 2.5mm-ish bits and layer to form the vent slats.

Plan A not good this time round worked well with my CCT in the suburban coach thread below

 

Need a plan B........

How this? Made from 0.5mm the strips of different sizes then laminated

 

Might try it with 0.25mm thk because as you can see there are more slats on the prototype

 

And here is plan B in situ

 

So........what's the verdict??

 

Scott

Edited March 4, 2018 by gobbler

[gobbler]

I went for it, laminated 0.25mm

 

What do you think?

These will have a border around them so it should hide some of the rough edges.

 

TTFN

 

Scott

[gobbler]

In this shot you can see both sides of the laminated blocks.

I went with the 0.25mm thk sheet, I think it looks ok. Your comments welcome.

 

Nighty nite for now

 

Scott

[FPH 603]

In this shot you can see both sides of the laminated blocks.

I went with the 0.25mm thk sheet, I think it looks ok. Your comments welcome.

IMG_7935.JPG

 

Nighty nite for now

 

Scott

Looks good Scott! Very realistic looking.

 

Would this method work for making grilles/radiators on diesel trains by any chance?

[gobbler]

I suppose they would be.

 

It's down to the particular style, thickness of grill and the spacing of each bar.

 

If you look at the first attemp, if you used a slightly thicker plasticard you could use them on a 47 or 56 just above the cant rail.

If you use method two you could use it for the large grill in the side of a 37

And if you use the final method you could use it for the smaller nose side grills in a 37

 

The above are of course just suggestions, but anything you pick up here is transferable to any model

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[jwealleans]

I've struggled with grilles in the past. If you're going to do a lot it's worth having them etched.

 

For these French vans (which are the same as the one in the NRM) I used 10 thou Evergreen strip and stuck alternate pieces of 40 thou and 20 thou together. Once they're painted and weathered you can't see past the edges, so I didn't bother with the angled part at all.

 

Edited May 4, 2018 by jwealleans

[gobbler]

Those vents look excellent Jonathan.

 

Tho' etchings look fantastic, I try and keep the costs down as much as possible due to my meagre modelling budget I have. There some inevitable purchases that have to be made such as wheels, bearing cups and couplings . But I try and do as much as I can before spending any money.

 

Scott

[N15class]

Trouble with etchings they are not the right shape. To look right they need a sloping top.

[gobbler]

Spent today detailing the sides, you know, you can't beat a bit of stretched sprue here'n'there

Anyway here are both sides.

 

 

 

Once it's all dried out I can sand down the rivet:screw heads.

 

Once that's done work on the ends, add the roof, then start on the underside.

 

Comments always welcome

 

TTFN

 

Scott

Edited March 4, 2018 by gobbler

[gobbler]

Cheers Bob,

 

I can only muster 2 pictures myself of this vehicle, the one in historic carriages vol 3 and one picture on Paul Bartletts site. Both show just one side having a brake on just the one wheel.

 

If you know of any other pictures could you post a web link here? Or perhaps pm a picky?

 

As for scribing, just the one side.

 

Scott

[brossard]

Scott, to represent rivets and bolt heads I use Evergreen 0.020" plastic rod.  I drill a 0.020" hole first and secure with solvent.

 

John

[gobbler]

Well I just have the Vol3 so the Paul Bartlett image is a new addition. It would seem to suggest that the Westinghouse gear has been removed but it’s not conclusive. As for the linkages underneath, it’s anyone’s guess. Perhaps someone else reading this can add some info.

Cheers

The underframe seems devoid of all fittings as far as I can tell. On one side only there appears to be only 1 brake against one wheel. Should make it easier to model.

 

Anyway......I have changed the order of build, I've put the roof on first. Instead of the multitude of strips I went for fewer 4mm wide strips with a central 3mm strip as the radius of the roof is quite shallow.

 

The reason being, is that against the roof there is a reinforcing band and it would be easier to push and glue a strip against the radius.

 

More tonight......

 

Scott

Edited March 5, 2018 by gobbler

[gobbler]

Couple of updates:-

The GER passenger rated cattle van. Still getting the roof right.

 

The milk/luggage van. Have made the vac pipes with some guitar string. Found some oval buffers for the ends. These are not 100% correct, but I think they'll do.

 

Lastly.......what's up next??? ...........well one of these.....

A four wheel full brake.

 

Also on the back burner a GER horse box.

 

TTFN

 

Scott

[gobbler]

Ah.....Bob,

 

Thank you for your interjection, any comments are always welcome. this is the inside of the vehicle, also I haven't scribed the tumblehome bend lines on this surface yet.

 

I'm having trouble with the guards door window for some reason.

 

I know one side only has the 'ducket'. when the model is put together the guard door are at opposite ends with the door and it's vent on the inner of the two doors. I'm convinced I've got the right, but I will bow to you sir if you turn out to be correct.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[Deltic]

Scott,

 

Brilliant models, I do admire the scratch building I see around - just wish I could. Whilst I can handle civil engineering, railway vehicles never seem to turn out correct.

 

As to warping plastic I tend to use Phoenix Precision adhesive, do not seem to have to use as much as some other Brands. Evergreen seems softer and therefore easier to cut, but still use Slaters products - especially their embossed sheets.

 

With regard to cutting plasticard, there are a couple of Models in The Chopper range, these are used by aviation and maritime plastic modellers. Not Cheap - mid £50

 

Regards

 

Ken

[gobbler]

Scott,

Brilliant models, I do admire the scratch building I see around - just wish I could. Whilst I can handle civil engineering, railway vehicles never seem to turn out correct.

As to warping plastic I tend to use Phoenix Precision adhesive, do not seem to have to use as much as some other Brands. Evergreen seems softer and therefore easier to cut, but still use Slaters products - especially their embossed sheets.

With regard to cutting plasticard, there are a couple of Models in The Chopper range, these are used by aviation and maritime plastic modellers. Not Cheap - mid £50

Regards

Ken

 

Do all mine by hand with a square, steel rule, vernier and my favourite 10A scalpel blades

 

Plastic I use is mainly slaters

 

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Edited March 6, 2018 by gobbler