My/our coach, carriage & wagon scratch building thread

[dseagull]

Stick to LNER models..............

But seriously if you haven't got any 2.5mm x 2.5mm approx square rod, I'd laminate until I got the correct with (I'm assuming 2.5mm approx) stick the lengths into position. Wait a day until thoroughly dry then thin down one end until satisfactory.

Have never come across this in the models I've built.

Sometimes I wish these things came with instructions. You gotta make it up as you go along. A lot of the time you can only do so much, it's down to you how far you want to go.

You are the master of your own destiny. Post your progress here as it's a technique I may later need acquire.

The above is about as much use to you as a Easter chocolate tea-pot lol

Scott

Cheers - has confirmed my two thoughts on the subject!

[gobbler]

Dseagle........ those two confirmed things are??????

 

Laminate to required width

And

Sand/ scrape to desired taper??

 

Scott

Edited March 17, 2018 by gobbler

[dseagull]

Dseagle........ those two confirmed things are??????

 

Laminate to required width

And

Sand/ scrape to desired taper??

 

Scott

Sorry yes, missed that bit off!

[gobbler]

Done a wee bit more this morning.

Concentrated on the underside, still some battery boxes to make. Not sure, but I think there are two battery boxes to fit into on the side without the guards ducket. Anyhoo here's the pix.

 

The underside so far

 

Closer view of the suspension, got to do some axle box detail.

 

The ride height looks good too

 

That's all for now

 

Scott

Edited March 18, 2018 by gobbler

[gazman424]

Morning All,

 Been busy with work, so I've not been as productive as I would have liked.

Managed to get a bit more done on the Sleeper Composite;

 

 

Just some touching up, sort the fit of the roof, and construct an interior to do.

Gaz.

[gobbler]

Gaz couple of Q's

 

1. How do you do your roofs? especially the ends

2. Your bogies, home made?

3. How are your trusses done?

 

Ps nice paint job

 

Scott

Edited March 19, 2018 by gobbler

[gazman424]

Hi Scott,

 1: The roofs are from Wizard models,

either the ex-Comet roof : https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/carriage/c10b/

 

or the 51L version : https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/carriage/lner-gresley-61ft-6in-carriage-roof-lnec001/

 

 2: The bogies are Hornby

 3: The Trusses are MJT etched ones in this instance, if they were the angle iron version i would just cut them myself.

 

Hope that helps,

Gaz.

 

 

Gaz couple of Q's

1. How do you do your roofs? especially the ends
2. Your bogies, home made?
3. How are your trusses done?

Ps nice paint job

Scott

[gobbler]

Hi Scott,

 1: The roofs are from Wizard models,

either the ex-Comet roof : https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/carriage/c10b/

 

or the 51L version : https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/carriage/lner-gresley-61ft-6in-carriage-roof-lnec001/

 

 2: The bogies are Hornby

 3: The Trusses are MJT etched ones in this instance, if they were the angle iron version i would just cut them myself.

 

Hope that helps,

Gaz.

You'll have to let us know when you do the angle iron trusses, that's one thing I need to master.

A step-by-step on here would be V.nice.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[gazman424]

Evening All,

 My next project will be this;

 

 

 An ex-NBR non-corridor brake.

As my layout (under construction) is set in 1955, if this coach had survived, what livery would it likely have carried?

My guess would be ex-LNER brown, or crimson.

 Any advice gratefully received!

 

Now, just need to get some time off to be able to work on it!

Gaz.

Edited March 19, 2018 by gazman424

[gobbler]

Anyhoo a tad more done.

 

First up a closer look at the underside.

I've realised there's some omissions.

A. The little bar on the bottom of the 'W' irons....shouldn't be too difficult

B. The foot board that runs along the sole bar.

C. The guards steps.

 

Well I've also done the glazing so I can add the roof.

 

Can't do much more on this tonight

 

So I've prepped some sides for the next projects.

I'm not going to tell you what they are, except that they'll be in Nick Camplings book historic carriage drawings vol1.

 

 

TTFN

 

Scott

[gobbler]

Evening All,

My next project will be this;

 

NBR Non-corridor coach.jpg

 

An ex-NBR non-corridor brake.

As my layout (under construction) is set in 1955, if this coach had survived, what livery would it likely have carried?

My guess would be ex-LNER brown, or crimson.

Any advice gratefully received!

 

Now, just need to get some time off to be able to work on it!

Gaz.

Jwealleans is a bit of a guru, when it comes to this stuff, maybe micklner or coachman could help

 

Scott

Edited March 20, 2018 by gobbler

[jwealleans]

I think you're right with either brown or Crimson, Gaz - my instinct is that the later in the 1950s these vehicles survived, the more likely they were to have Crimson, but relatively few pregrouping vehicles were considered likely to be kept in traffic long enough to receive it. If you've no definitive evidence either way then go with what you prefer (or do one side in each?).

 

How do you get on with the 51L roofs? I find the ends a bit flat compared to Kirk or Comet ones (I'm guessing the one on your sleeper is a Comet).

[dseagull]

Some more done on my Van 

 

 

Looking at a picture of the prototype, I noticed that there is a vertical part of the support before it begins to taper in. Once I noticed this, I thought the easiest thing to do would be to get a straight edged bit of plasticard, cut along this for a short while, then rotate the knife to a 45 degree angle and allow it to run off the side - this worked well. Unfortunately it wasn't until I'd done one end by the more complicated method of cutting a rectangle then cutting it diagonally in half that I noticed this, meaning a fair bit of sanding to correct the taper! - Despite my changing of methods, I managed to produce 8 more or less the same, laminating them together for strength and to get the right thickness.

 

The bar above the door and the door bangs(?) were simply 30 thou plasticard filed on the edges to try and represent the slight taper of the prototype. Also put in a couple of internal supports to help keep the shape, which, now it's all stuck together, is pleasingly staying square.

 

It does seem very light, so I've currently got 6p on my desk in penny pieces and am toying with gluing them together to make weights which can then fit inside the van at either end (needed or overkill?)

 

Solebars and roof strips are cut - as are some rather ropey W Irons - I'm hoping that by the time they are painted and the axlebox covers are fitted they will look Ok and do the job!

 

 

So - next jobs are to fit the solebars (I could have done this already but am a little nervous about getting the gauge correct!) and W Irons, then decide whether or not to weight internally or find something afterwards to weight underneath, and then fit the roof. A pack of 50 top hat bearings is waiting on eBay for a cheque (or a Paypal payment, either's good!) to clear, and I'm hoping to pick up some 10 thou for the strapping and wheels at the model shop on Saturday.

 

All feedback more than welcome! 

Edited March 20, 2018 by dseagull

[gobbler]

All the ends and partitions/roof formers cut and shaped.

 

The ends are different, they are 1mm bigger because of the curve.

 

Floors cut, the sides are scribed for the tumblehome and the ends have the curves cut.

 

All this while waiting for my roof to dry.....gotta be doin' something......right?

 

Scott

Edited March 20, 2018 by gobbler

[gobbler]

Some more done on my Van

 

Van2.png

 

Looking at a picture of the prototype, I noticed that there is a vertical part of the support before it begins to taper in. Once I noticed this, I thought the easiest thing to do would be to get a straight edged bit of plasticard, cut along this for a short while, then rotate the knife to a 45 degree angle and allow it to run off the side - this worked well. Unfortunately it wasn't until I'd done one end by the more complicated method of cutting a rectangle then cutting it diagonally in half that I noticed this, meaning a fair bit of sanding to correct the taper! - Despite my changing of methods, I managed to produce 8 more or less the same, laminating them together for strength and to get the right thickness.

 

The bar above the door and the door bangs(?) were simply 30 thou plasticard filed on the edges to try and represent the slight taper of the prototype. Also put in a couple of internal supports to help keep the shape, which, now it's all stuck together, is pleasingly staying square.

 

It does seem very light, so I've currently got 6p on my desk in penny pieces and am toying with gluing them together to make weights which can then fit inside the van at either end (needed or overkill?)

 

Solebars and roof strips are cut - as are some rather ropey W Irons - I'm hoping that by the time they are painted and the axlebox covers are fitted they will look Ok and do the job!

 

Irons.png

 

So - next jobs are to fit the solebars (I could have done this already but am a little nervous about getting the gauge correct!) and W Irons, then decide whether or not to weight internally or find something afterwards to weight underneath, and then fit the roof. A pack of 50 top hat bearings is waiting on eBay for a cheque (or a Paypal payment, either's good!) to clear, and I'm hoping to pick up some 10 thou for the strapping and wheels at the model shop on Saturday.

 

All feedback more than welcome!

 

Mr D Seagull

 

For your first outing into scratch building I'd be rather chuffed!! Pun intended of course.

The important bit of the 'W' irons is the measurement from the longer flat that is stuck to the bottom of the wagon floor to the hole centre.

 

As a rule of thumb, 23.5mm from the inside of the 'W' irons works well for Hornby/Bachmann wheels.

 

If you fancy doing more scratchin' you find a vernier a boon! (I know I've said this before my one opens out to just over 200mm, a must if you have plans for coaches or any type of bogied vehicle).

 

 

Scott

Edited March 20, 2018 by gobbler

[gazman424]

Evening All,

 Managed to get a wee bit more done to the NBR coach today, namely the door ventilator hoods.

 

 

Thanks Jonathon for the livery info, I think I'll go with crimson.

 Regarding the Gresley roofs, the one on the sleeper is a 51L example. The only niggle I have with them is that they are slightly underlength  - 237mm instead of 240mm for the 60' sides. The 51L moulding is far crisper, but also is missing the nameboard brackets. (Which I have just realised I have forgotten to put on the Sleeper - D'oh!).

Gaz.

[gobbler]

From a bundle of parts in the previous picture to these....

 

Two GE corridor coaches, a 4 compartment 3rd with guard and a 1st/3rd. That's another sheet of 0.75mm styrene sheet gone and I haven't done the roofs, sole bars or bogies yet. But at 86p a sheet not bad. The most expensive bits of any build I've done so far are the wheels.

 

TTFN

 

Scott

Edited March 20, 2018 by gobbler

[dseagull]

Mr D Seagull

 

For your first outing into scratch building I'd be rather chuffed!! Pun intended of course.

The important bit of the 'W' irons is the measurement from the longer flat that is stuck to the bottom of the wagon floor to the hole centre.

 

As a rule of thumb, 23.5mm from the inside of the 'W' irons works well for Hornby/Bachmann wheels.

 

If you fancy doing more scratchin' you find a vernier a boon! (I know I've said this before my one opens out to just over 200mm, a must if you have plans for coaches or any type of bogied vehicle).

 

IMG_8303.JPG

 

Scott

 

Thanks that's very useful. Vernier also on shopping list!

[gobbler]

Bob,

 

The Vernier calliper is the metal instrument just above the coach side on post 324. I've had this I was an apprentice at Marconi back in the mid 80's. Its a Mitutoyo all hardened stainless steel and I use it all the time for marking out and measuring, accurate to 0.05mm but only go to the nearest 0.1mm. In eBay type in '200mm vernier'. The closet match to the one I use is about £45. If your not used to using the graduations to set the dimension, I would go for a digital one.

 

Scott

[gobbler]

Guy's, just thought.....

 

Always mark out from one datum point, I usually take the top left hand corner, never the bottom because you'll always need to add a little extra for the tumblehome.

 

Which brings up this important-ish note:-

 

The vernier I have opens out to a maximum of 216mm which is 54ft in 4mm terms. Luckily all I've built are Gresley/Thompson and GER stock which my calipers can handle, anything bigger I would have to mark out the windows from both ends, meaning that the length of the sides would be a very critical dimension and would have to be cut very accurately.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[gobbler]

Vans being flat sided with no tumblehome will make things slightly easier.

 

Here's what I've done on my CCT, cattle and horse box.....

 

1. Mark out the lines of all panel detail, using the scalpel normally, on the outer surface. Using the drawing I recon I can guesstimate to about 0.1mm using my rule, set that dimension with my vernier then....,

 

Once your happy with all the dimensions that have been marked out...

 

2. using a steel rule and the scalpel at 90 degrees scribe all lines once or twice to deepen the definition of all the details.

 

You may need to use a Stanley knife blade for bigger stuff, I'm not sure though.

 

Have a practice first and try different techniques. Then post your findings here

 

Hope this helps........

 

Scott

Edited March 22, 2018 by gobbler

[gobbler]

Just looking over my milk luggage van, I realised I hadn't done the end with the handrails and steps, I'd also missed the guards footsteps. I know the handrails by the single guards door have not been done either. Will do them later.

 

Still working on the 4w dia 120 full brake just the end panel detail to complete there.

 

And the three GER corridor coaches are coming along nicely.

 

I've missed out a lot of steps in the building of these. I'll just post pictures as and when. If anyone would rather me do the step by step approach let me know and I'll do it on the next new build.

 

Cheers for reading

 

Scott

Edited March 25, 2018 by gobbler

[dseagull]

Bearings arrived this morning, Solebars and strapping now on. Axleboxes, springs, couplings, roof and buffers still required.

 

 

I'm sure there will still be challenges to come, but I'm really quite pleased so far 

[gobbler]

Looking good.

 

It's nice to see steady progress being made

 

Scott

[gobbler]

The first steps for the panel beading.

 

The longitudinal bands, one flush with the top, the second just above window level, the third just below window level and the last close to midway from the lower window level and base of the coach. Being so thin, it can be tricky to get them straight and parallel. Not looking too bad, there's two or three spots that need further attention though.

 

Scott

Edited March 26, 2018 by gobbler