gobbler Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 (edited) Well, I've been a bit busy these last few evenings. 1st up the CCT, the roof has had its final rub down and is ready for some paint Then, there's the beginnings of the GE (top) and Fox bogies (bottom). These is wear this projects will grind to a halt for a while. I need to make a visit to John Dutfields in Chelmsford to get some more top hat pin point bearings, wheels and 4 more sheets of 0.75mm thk plasticard. So whilst I wait to go shopping, I've started something else...... 2 x 19ft GE Van's. Have cut and scribed 4 sides, and have cut the 2 bases, 4 ends and 10 roof formers. The ends and formers will be profiled and the ends will have the plank detail scribed later. I'm trying something slightly different with the ends.......I've made them with the headstock incorporated to the height. I'd normally only make them 0.75mm higher than the roof formers and add the headstock and sole bars afterwards. I know I'm the inside measurement of the W irons is 24mm. I'll make these out of 0.75mm like I've done on my horse box, cattle wagon and full brake. Happy modelling everyone. Scott Edited February 1, 2019 by gobbler Typo 9 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 (edited) The GE vans are taking shape nicely. Change of plan, the ends were cut down as i had trouble with getting the base at the correct height with the headcstocks All the sides put together and the roof on. I opted to make the roof out of 0.5mm this time as the drawing i have in Peter Tatlow's book shows it to be quite thin. Seeing the wagon built by dseagull has inspired me to do something a bit smaller Cheers Scott Edited February 6, 2019 by gobbler 11 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 (edited) Started to tinker with the door details now, 3 more to do to get to this stage. Not looking too bad, even if I say so myself. Got to scribe the vertical lines for the doors, add some hinge detail and do something with the locking bar..... Thats about it. Cheers Edited February 6, 2019 by gobbler 8 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 Just a matter of building up the layers of detail, hoping i won't run out of the micro strip I'm using (which i have. Oh well there the ventilated ends to be getting on with. I can also start work on my bogies because ive got myself some of these. This will keep me busy until i came get some more micro strip. Maybe more later. Thanks for looking Scott 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 Whilst the GE vans are having a bit of a dry, the fox bogies have started to take shape. The basic shape is done, super glue the pin point bearings in and then start to build up the details. These will dry nicely over night. Once hardend up, they will be easier to hold while i work on them. Mustn't forget, I've got the GE bogies too, to be getting on with Thats it for now, thanks for looking Scott 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 (edited) Well...........the bogies have moved on a smidge compared to the picture taken last night, i think you'll agree. Just a couple of bits of stretched sprue to put in the thin plate of the central double springs. However the plastic needs to dry before i can drill the holes necessary. As a bit of info to those that have dropped in, once the frames have been made, i super glue the top hat bearings in, super glue a small 1.2mm thk rectangle on top. I then back fill around the axles with putty, thats the bit of green you can see. From there its a matter of making the other details and building it up. Ive tested both bogies with the wheels in and both are free running and flat with no wobble. Thats it for now, thanks for looking Scott Edited February 10, 2019 by gobbler 9 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted February 10, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 10, 2019 You're scratchbuilding really is great! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 I've mounted the bodies for the CCT She runs nice a smoothly over points,which is a bonus, they're continuing to dry and harden. While I'm waiting for them to cure fully, I've started these.... The W irons for my two GE vans. Only another 7 to do. Scott 13 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Gough Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Which thickness of plastikard do you use for the 'W' irons Scott? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 On 15/02/2019 at 07:35, Nick Gough said: Which thickness of plastikard do you use for the 'W' irons Scott? Nick, The W irons, along with all the main parts of my builds are made out of 0.75mm thk. That's the thickest I've used on all builds. Anything thicker, such as the axle boxes will be laminated. I'll post a pic later. Scott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted February 21, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 21, 2019 Hi Scott, Apologies if I've missed this - what do you use as a former for creating the roofs? I was going to use this technique of using individual "planks" for creating some 3 arc roofs for brass GWR 4 wheel coach kits that I have no roofs for. cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 (edited) On 15/02/2019 at 07:35, Nick Gough said: 57xx On my latest carriages I've used the compartment dividers to support the roof. where some vehicles do not have a natural compartment I've estimated that a support every 30-40mm should suffice to support the roof. These however cannot be removed. If you look at my suburban coach thread below, I've used a similar method for the roof, however I had made the roof removable but cutting off the top radius and gluing a piece of plasticard either side of the compartment dividers so the roof radius slots into position. The ends were problematic though. If I remember correctly.....I numbered each compartment divider, glued the tabs either side, put all the radii back and glued a couple of roof strips along each length. Be careful you don't stick the radii pieces back on though, otherwise you won't have a removable roof. Also look out for the position of each roof radius, it is easy to misalign them and get a wonky roof. If you look at the CCT pictures above, you'll see how I've supported the roof, this also adds strength to the whole carriage Scott Edited February 22, 2019 by gobbler 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 The GE wagons have moved on a bit..... All the frames/bracing is now complete, the 'W' irons are on, no wobble and they run very freely too. They are both at the same state of completion. So tonight I'll be working on the axle details. I'll post more later as i progress. Thanks for looking Scott 5 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Looking at my reference pictures the axle boxes seem to slope outwards Like this i hope.....now to get my putty out and back fill all around them axle boxes....... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 2, 2019 Author Share Posted March 2, 2019 After back filling the angled axle boxes and letting them dry thoroughly, it was time to get out some microstrip and stretch a bit of sprue. This is how the vans are looking now........ Not bad for a couple of hours work, just a little tidying up of the ends of the springs. Then on to the 'V' hangers and brake gear. After that, finish off the door details and then work on the ends. What do you think chaps? Scott 6 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted March 2, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 2, 2019 Great work as always! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon4470 Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Hi Scott Full of admiration for the detail that you achieve. I have just finished my first scratch built wagon. It has taken a lot longer than yours - 9 months in fits and starts! I’m pleased overall with the end result....not perfect....the next one will be better! Jon 6 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium gazman424 Posted March 2, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 2, 2019 Hi All, Been a long time since I've posted, but sadly the mojo has been full steam ahead, but with no time to employ it!! Anyway, I've managed to the finish the exNBR Brake 3rd; I'm also beavering away with a scratchbuilt Toad E; Still in a very (obviously) unfinished state, but it'll get there!! Gaz. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 3, 2019 Author Share Posted March 3, 2019 (edited) Gents, Very impressed with your handy work there. Would like to have seen some in-progress photos as theres some ideas id like to replicate. John4470, how did you do the bogies? Gazman424, your brake 3rd, do you use a silhouette cutter? Your toad, looks like it could have been a kit, have did you achieve the panel work? And lastly the brown wagon, how did you do the side vents and axle boxes? Looks like i can still learn alot, thats what i love about this hobby. There's always something new to learn. Like i said very impressive gents. Scott Edited March 3, 2019 by gobbler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon4470 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 Hi Scott I cheated with the bogies on the hopper wagon. I modified some Dundas ones - basically replacing leaf springs with coil springs. The wagon is OO-9 and I found attempts to make the bogies turned out way over scale and/or not robust enough. Jon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium gazman424 Posted March 3, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 3, 2019 Morning Scott, The Brake Van and Dia.23 Fish Van (the brown one) are both the end product of my Emblaser 1 laser cutter. The were designed via Coreldraw, and allow me to achieve accuracy and repeatability which I could only otherwise dream about. There was a fairly steep learning curve with the laser, and one was finding materials which suited my needs. I have settled on card, which seems to satisfy my needs. The panelling and louvres are either 'scored' - one pass of the laser - or cut right through to achieve the effect required. The axleboxes are built up in layers. The underframes are also card, very similar to the way you construct yours; The longitudinal slots are where the brakes are fixed. The Vacuum cylinder is a 3D print, which I am now able to do myself thanks to plenty of overtime and the purchase of an Anycubic Photon 3D printer. If you have any other questions, please let me know! Gaz. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 3, 2019 Author Share Posted March 3, 2019 Hmmmm, John4479, Good going with the bogies, my first go at carriages were the suburban gresley coahes which Hornby now make, i used Bachmann bogies for them. The Fox and GE bogies ive made for my more recent endeavours were more an experiment that turned out not too shabby (if I say so myself) and will continue to make them. There hasn't been any rocking and they roll freely too. Gazman, What you're doing looks great. Sounds a bit like rocket science and a bit out of my pockect too. But the results you're getting are great. Thanks gents for your contributions.......... I have a problem........my latest CCT The roof is a good 1mm higher, when between my other models it's quite noticeable. The sole bars are the same height The wheels are the right diameter The height of the body sides are pretty much the same too. Which leaves one thing........the height of the radius of the roof, unless of course I've got it right and there is a difference. Hopefully if Mr jwealleans is reading this, maybe he could shed some light on my predicament. Otherwise it means some major surgery on the roof (which I'm not looking forward too) but i suppose I'll do it. Cheers Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon4470 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 Hi Scott it it could be an optical illusion but the eaves/ cantrail height looks higher on the CCT when compared to the other van. Jon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted March 4, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 4, 2019 There was always a bit of height variation too - loading, spring age etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Are the wheels the same? I measure with vehicles on track in case the flanges are different heights. I agree with Jon, the cantrail on the right does look higher. I'm sorry, I haven't time to look back over the thread - are they the same diagram? These things were built in 'high' and 'low' roof models (and I can't remember which of the LNER and NER built which). The Low roof ones had torpedo vents on the centreline of the roof, the high roof ones had a roof up to the loading gauge and cantrail ventilation. On that basis, you may not have a problem at all. From memory these are in the yellow (Campling) volume of the Historic Carriage Drawing books. That should tell you what is what. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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