F-UnitMad Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 Why did you go for S&W couplings, Mike? Just interested to know, as your previous 'slimline' 4mm tension locks seemed to be a good solution. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 Hi Jordan, yes they worked, but the way I had fitted them ruined the appearance of the wagons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 Hi Jordan, yes they worked, but the way I had fitted them ruined the appearance of the wagons. Well that's true for their intended scale, as well... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 Well zip-a-dee-doo-dah, the last building is almost complete. Toilet and wash room, small and bijou, ridge tiles door knobs, guttering and down pipes, weathering and not forgetting the chimney flashing, still need to be executed. Still I'm almost there, says me with a large smug grin, although that could be down to the G&T. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Mee too will be moving onto S&W as the couplings of choice for me "new build" layout. Progress has been rather slow of late but lots of real life stuff cleared so onward and forward now. Best. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 A selection of photos showing where everything goes, some things still to be finished including the ground cover, ballast and fascias. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 All 4 locos have been fitted with goal posts for the S&W couplings and 8 wagons S&Ws' have had small lead weights fitted to the rear of the paddle. The weights are small round fishing weights flattened to form a disc, they work a treat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 ……..are u fitting hooks to both ends of the wagons Mike? I'm thinking of having the goalposts on one end of all wagons and locos leaving the original hooks in situ too. Then I will add a S&W hook to the loco rear and 1 each on the wagon rears too. It will mean all wagons will have to have their hook ends facing away from the loco but I don't see that as a problem and it will allow me to pull wagons in both directions. I have some split fishing weights left over from the Lincs trial from which I may pinch their idea and just clamp them onto the plate . . . . . and secure with a dab of evo . I need to check tomorrow if the lead bead will effect the hook positioning/leveling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 ……..are u fitting hooks to both ends of the wagons Mike? I'm thinking of having the goalposts on one end of all wagons and locos leaving the original hooks in situ too. Then I will add a S&W hook to the loco rear and 1 each on the wagon rears too. It will mean all wagons will have to have their hook ends facing away from the loco but I don't see that as a problem and it will allow me to pull wagons in both directions. I have some split fishing weights left over from the Lincs trial from which I may pinch their idea and just clamp them onto the plate . . . . . and secure with a dab of evo . I need to check tomorrow if the lead bead will effect the hook positioning/leveling. Hooks fitted to both ends of the wagons, locos have goal posts on both ends. I'll post a couple of happy snaps a.s.a.p. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share Posted July 31, 2018 Hi Barnaby, happy snaps of height gauge, goal posts, couplings and electromagnet uncoupling. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 Barnaby and Mike,I forgot to say, when adding little scraps of lead weight to the S&W paddles- it only needs to be a very small (tiny) piece of lead. In my first counter-balancing efforts, I glued too large a piece of lead, and had to lever it off againIf the piece of lead is too heavy, it can make the paddle too heavy for the magnet, so sometimes, it won't uncouple!A lead fishing weight / shot may be a bit too big / heavy BarnabyMight be a good idea to experiment with some really tiny pieces of lead, and stick them temporarily in place with Tacky Wax - it's useful stuff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 Also, Mike, I quite like the S&W "Goalposts" painted red on your loco in the photos aboveI have blackened mine, but I feel they somehow look more a part of the loco when in buffer beam redI know some might say this is the "wrong" approach, as in reality, they shouldn't be thereBut they're almost less noticeable - or perhaps oddly enough they don't stand out....I like that - might try it on one of my locos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted July 31, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2018 Barnaby and Mike, I forgot to say, when adding little scraps of lead weight to the S&W paddles - it only needs to be a very small (tiny) piece of lead. In my first counter-balancing efforts, I glued too large a piece of lead, and had to lever it off again If the piece of lead is too heavy, it can make the paddle too heavy for the magnet, so sometimes, it won't uncouple! A lead fishing weight / shot may be a bit too big / heavy Barnaby Might be a good idea to experiment with some really tiny pieces of lead, and stick them temporarily in place with Tacky Wax - it's useful stuff My dad uses S&W and has added lumps of solder to the paddle to add weight. I still have to experiment... A question about the height guide - is that only for the loop? I'm guessing the hooks rest under these so are automatically height adjusted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share Posted July 31, 2018 My dad uses S&W and has added lumps of solder to the paddle to add weight. I still have to experiment... A question about the height guide - is that only for the loop? I'm guessing the hooks rest under these so are automatically height adjusted. Absolutely, if the loop is set at the right height the couplings should be spot on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 Small lead weights added to the S&W paddles,* I also use the mounting plates so the completed couplings are fitted as a unit, simples. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 (edited) Mike did you use the wire supplied to form the hoops it looks a little different to mine which I was thinking of swapping for some straight brass about 1.0mm dia. It is nickel-silver in the kit and only about 0.5mm dia.. As Marc S says painting them like the buffer beam is "really great" Cheers Edited August 1, 2018 by Barnaby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 (edited) Mike did you use the wire supplied to form the hoops it looks a little different to mine which I was thinking of swapping for some straight brass about 1.0mm dia. It is nickel-silver in the kit and only about 0.5mm dia.. Your quite correct, I have indeed changed the wire from the nickle supplied to some nice straight brass wire as you say about 1.0mm. cheers Edited August 15, 2018 by Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 15, 2018 Author Share Posted August 15, 2018 Inspired by Chris Klein, I've been bodging a small oil tank. It started life as an Airfix kit built 00 Esso tank wagon. Cut and shut removing a section to shorten it added a couple of brick piers and there you go. It needs flatting,priming, painting and weathering and Oh! a nozzle for the filler pipe. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Saltburn Posted August 15, 2018 Share Posted August 15, 2018 Mike what a wonderful o gauge layout this is turning out to be the modelling and detail is brilliant and I like what you have done with the oil tank. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 19, 2018 Author Share Posted August 19, 2018 A bit more work on the oil tank, still a way to go. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Saltburn Posted August 19, 2018 Share Posted August 19, 2018 Looking really good Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 20, 2018 Author Share Posted August 20, 2018 The inspiration and the model. Now to complete the ballasting. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted August 20, 2018 Share Posted August 20, 2018 Just some detail dirtiness to be done then Mike looking good Best Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 26, 2018 Author Share Posted August 26, 2018 (edited) Slowly getting there, just need to ballast the narrow gauge track and fit a few more stone sets then lots of weathering etc. Edited August 26, 2018 by Mike 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 (edited) Spent today at the work bench doing a bit of bodging, namely building a rail car. Need to rectify the hand rail, fit the steps and add the castings. Roof still needs to be correctly profiled before fixing but for a days work I'm quite pleased with the outcome. Chassis is not fitted, body is only placed on and not correctly positioned. Edited September 5, 2018 by Mike 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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