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  • RMweb Gold

Had a bit of a play with positions following help from @Nick C

 

A076A4AA-3D06-467F-BD4C-BA89E463A3A0.jpeg.35d458d0da6e3d1e74c373f2b2827243.jpeg

6C66EBD5-0BE4-4C4C-A670-76B2B0464C23.jpeg.09125b2e1e3579c3e1c2a53cd47676aa.jpeg

 

Yellow - Home Signal

Red - right ground Signal

Blue - Starter Signal

Cyan - left ground signal

Orange - far left ground signal

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold
27 minutes ago, Graham T said:

Looks good to me Chris :)


Thank you

 

The pulleys are glued in place now so if they are in the wrong place they are staying in the wrong place

 

Id like to get a little ballast down in that area before the end of tomorrow

 

Hopefully if I can manage to work ballast under the rods, around the crank and pulley bases it will look a lot clearer having the lighter buff colour ballast 

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:

Hopefully if I can manage to work ballast under the rods, around the crank and pulley bases it will look a lot clearer having the lighter buff colour ballast 


something like this…..

 

F9F70C37-AF89-4DBA-8CB8-9CA9D550518E.jpeg.ca413560f5b60dbe29677881ece35c38.jpeg
 

…..?

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  • RMweb Gold

Looks good. In reality, the home signal would be the other side of the bridge, but invoking rule 1 to come up with a reason why it can't be, you might want to think about sight-lines, I.e. making sure the driver can see it as they approach - either by making it lower, or adding a high level repeater arm.

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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, Nick C said:

Looks good. In reality, the home signal would be the other side of the bridge, but invoking rule 1 to come up with a reason why it can't be, you might want to think about sight-lines, I.e. making sure the driver can see it as they approach - either by making it lower, or adding a high level repeater arm.


I thought there would be a distant signal beyond the bridge?

 

It was mentioned quite a while ago that a signal wasn’t necessary there but that the GWR probably would still have one….Im probably wrong as I got all confused at the time (and still continue to be)

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

There would be  a distant, about 3/4 mile further back. The home would (probably, I'm not an expert on GW matters) be about a coach-length before the point, but with a bridge there they'd probably have it before the bridge to make it easier to see, otherwise they'd need a repeater (a special signal that isn't actually a real signal, but simply tells the driver what the next signal says).

 

But as always, rule 1 applies, so I'd keep the signal where you have it, and have an excuse for a little stubby signal that the driver can see under the bridge as they approach...

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  • RMweb Gold

At Bakewell, because of the road-bridge and the curve through the station, they mounted the Up starter low down on the same post as the Down home, so the drivers could see it under the bridge and on the outside of the bend. So Rule One has probably been done somewhere on the real thing...

 

signals-layout005b.jpg.651a9904b5881443b0ce6605cc321334.jpg

 

Al.

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  • RMweb Gold

The height is fixed as I’ve got another Dapol motorised signal.
 

I would have had no problem leaving out the signal but I’d already got one so I know really know what to do. I’ve got quite a lot to do before getting to that though so I’ll give it some thought

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Can you get a picture through your bridge of a ruler positioned where the signal is planned to be? It might give you an idea of the driver's eye view. You can then compare the known height of the signal you have. 

 

I know your track curves after the bridge behind the backscene, but who will know it isn't straight beyond the bridge? So positioning the camera as though the track is on a straight approach may help. Unless you position on the outside of the curve as suggested by @Alister_G

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  • RMweb Gold
53 minutes ago, Fishplate said:

Can you get a picture through your bridge of a ruler positioned where the signal is planned to be? It might give you an idea of the driver's eye view. You can then compare the known height of the signal you have. 

 

I know your track curves after the bridge behind the backscene, but who will know it isn't straight beyond the bridge? So positioning the camera as though the track is on a straight approach may help. Unless you position on the outside of the curve as suggested by @Alister_G


The bridge was strategically positioned to give the impression that the line goes straight

 

307FB23B-0911-46B3-B929-C8791870E413.jpeg.a41d87a92e857ce6da9aedc25c3257c9.jpeg
 

40A2CEF7-966B-4564-AEBA-7A13BB0657AA.jpeg.9498d56a0b64ae5e8df752ca55bf80bb.jpeg

 

with the signal here….

3A1DB6EB-71D9-4264-AF55-DD3AC88F16DB.jpeg.c7d29552d8928d7bdf7a46d7e0c9cb5b.jpeg
 

view from the approach to the bridge…

F2695E7B-06D3-44EC-8514-A80E66B813AA.jpeg.bd6057fefbe2902e28bb1e6b7951c80f.jpeg
 

signal in the same position with the arm lowered….

F6A59EC0-98CB-4754-8F6A-998EDFFD4677.jpeg.c6c0c06fd8e65b3aabcb75972c20dc9b.jpeg

 

It would mean having the arm lowered approximately 18mm (minimum)


0D6BB9A6-2080-46D6-926E-820A9FD01CCE.jpeg.16c9844f7e8f68806c67df0116ee1367.jpeg

 

The only way I can think of doing that is cutting a rectangular hole in the baseboard and having 18mm plus buried

 

would that look odd?

 

 

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold
20 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

The only way I can think of doing that is cutting a rectangular hole in the baseboard and having 18mm plus buried

 

would that look odd?

I had wondered about that, my worry was the balance weights being too close to the ground.  Looking on the Dapol website it seems that they do not have balance weights modelled.  So . . .

I think you might be alright, just need to extend the black section up the post and ladder and add a new ‘ground level’ for the ballast etc.

Paul.
 

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  • RMweb Gold
3 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

I’ve just looked at it again, this is the view from the other side of the bridge at just over a carriage length away

Feels a bit low - needs to be visible from 11’6” above rail level (i.e. standing on the footplate).

You may not need to go for the full 18mm sink hole though.

Paul.

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2 hours ago, 5BarVT said:

Looking on the Dapol website it seems that they do not have balance weights modelled.  So . . .

I think you might be alright, just need to extend the black section up the post and ladder and add a new ‘ground level’ for the ballast etc.

Paul.
 


Thanks Paul

 

You're quite right these don’t so I made my own for the starter


EFC79F10-4B13-4BEC-89EA-B380F71BD520.jpeg.1daad09e6b8624b876978b3d48d1a202.jpeg

 

1D3325CE-C65B-45B6-9D65-617F29A1BAE9.jpeg.493a09dcada33e4d9e9e524781890a42.jpeg

 

056A5BD5-952F-4A2B-9D21-AA04276257DA.jpeg.f5af4c5f83b50aacabbb5df27467e711.jpeg

 

I just wasn’t sure if it would look silly

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold
44 minutes ago, 5BarVT said:

Feels a bit low - needs to be visible from 11’6” above rail level (i.e. standing on the footplate).

You may not need to go for the full 18mm sink hole though.

Paul.


It might be less hassle to just leave it off to be honest

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  • RMweb Gold

Well if I’m going to modify the Dapol signal I might as well bury it so that the light/arm is roughly 12ft 6ins (50mm) or  15ft (60mm) above railhead level (60mm looks about right)

 

Thinking about it I can do it the same as I did the platform one, bury a hollow box in the baseboard and drop it in

 

30B60F59-2EE7-42B5-AE9D-52FEA91FF7C6.jpeg.f448a36e6b3be1c36e13f76167cae525.jpeg

 

883A2AD0-C782-45D4-9DA9-236E71CAB2CC.jpeg.70c450e4e92741b94d5879345c5ec53a.jpeg

 

In for a penny in for a pound

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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