Daveloco1 Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 Hi Having followed various threads, I thought it about time I joined in. So welcome to my proposed layout thread. Progress maybe (painfully) slow but hopefully if I post fairly regularly some of you will tag along. Here is the prologue. Progress so far, test layout built (I'd never built O Gauge before, see photographs), having served it's purpose it's now being dismantled.Lots of locomotives, wagons acquired, some even completed, I'll post so photos later, if you are interested. Some new baseboards constructed, no track yet! Decisions made: DCC control with sound, lights and where appropriate smoke (hopefully not 'cooked' decoders). Build own track work, I do dislike the 'wheel drop' on Peco points, I know you can fit filler thingys but as most of my turnouts are on long curves anyway I'd rather build my own. Dingham auto couplings which are not too obvious once fitted. I have struggled with three links on the test rig and tried Dinghams on the test layout before making that decision. I don't think the long curves will interfere with their operation. Point motors, 'on hold' at the moment. Layout will be end to end with hopefully plenty of shunting possibilities, including small yard, transfer siding to a narrow gauge feeder line and a small works yard with access to off scene further works. So there is my opening scribe, layout design next time, hope you come along for the ride, it could be a bit bumpy. Cheers Dave 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 welcome to O gauge Dave, will be following with interest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 Likewise. Like the Fowler, but then I would say that wouldn't I? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted December 11, 2018 Author Share Posted December 11, 2018 (edited) Thanks for the replies/comments, sir douglas and Chris, I've followed both your layout threads for sometime now. To everyone who has viewed, thanks also. Chris as regards the Fowler, it is DCC sound fitted by EDM with 'stay alive' and Paul's brilliant sound file but 'so loud' I must turn it down a bit especially when the black livery one is running in 'consist' with it. Close up photographs are so cruel, just spotted I missed a bit of the under frames where the motion/cranks have been, doh! and also there is some traces of T-cut on the body panels. I have being weathering then T-cutting off where I want it leaving a nicely polished finish. I know you do it the other way round Chris. This is one of the industrial railway locomotives, steam named after girls (including granddaughters) with the diesels after boys. This little sound and smoke fitted model may also be known to you Chris? but 'Elizabeth' the 0-6-0 I bought off the well known auction site, with added smoke and lights, already had sound and smoke box flicker anybody any idea what it is? 'Isobel' (one of the granddaughters) is a model you may be known to you Chris, again sound, lights and smoke fitted. Fire iron loops are a bit heavy but from a distance are Ok. Thanks for the interest. Cheers Dave Edited December 13, 2018 by Daveloco1 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Kettlewell Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 Hi Dave, Glad to see you've got the layout thread off the ground mate - I'm sure fellow modellers will show lots of interest in what's going on with the layout, the planning and the good stuff you've already done on your workbench. You'll have to get on with it now that you've gone public.. lol. Cheers ... Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted December 11, 2018 Author Share Posted December 11, 2018 (edited) Cheers Alan Start building turnout kit I've had about 12 months, again tester before building the curved turnouts for the layout. I've added a copy of the plan hopefully it's readable if not I'll attach as a pdf file or photograph the drawing. See you later mate Dave Edited December 11, 2018 by Daveloco1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted December 12, 2018 Author Share Posted December 12, 2018 Hmmmm A tad small me thinks! So option 2 attached as a pdf file. I'll also try photographing the plan which was originally drawing on AutoCAD which my mate kindly re-drew as a Templot file. Cheers Dave Layout-No Frame shown.pdf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 to help if thats okay, i took a screenshot of the pdf to post as an image 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wessy Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 Hi Having followed various threads, I thought it about time I joined in. So welcome to my proposed layout thread. Progress maybe (painfully) slow but hopefully if I post fairly regularly some of you will tag along. Here is the prologue. Progress so far, test layout built (I'd never built O Gauge before, see photographs), having served it's purpose it's now being dismantled.Lots of locomotives, wagons acquired, some even completed, I'll post so photos later, if you are interested. Some new baseboards constructed, no track yet! Decisions made: DCC control with sound, lights and where appropriate smoke (hopefully not 'cooked' decoders). Build own track work, I do dislike the 'wheel drop' on Peco points, I know you can fit filler thingys but as most of my turnouts are on long curves anyway I'd rather build my own. Dingham auto couplings which are not too obvious once fitted. I have struggled with three links on the test rig and tried Dinghams on the test layout before making that decision. I don't think the long curves will interfere with their operation. Point motors, 'on hold' at the moment. Layout will be end to end with hopefully plenty of shunting possibilities, including small yard, transfer siding to a narrow gauge feeder line and a small works yard with access to off scene further works. So there is my opening scribe, layout design next time, hope you come along for the ride, it could be a bit bumpy. Cheers Dave Dave, I too have been thinking about ways of actuating points on a small layout. Servos were nice and smooth but needed the extra technology, then I looked at turnout motors but it seemed to need a lot of wiring. At the present I have installed the 'Bullfrog' manual system from Fast Tracks in Canada. They have a helpful web site. If you are tempted by them I have found that it isn't worth importing the control rods as they can be obtained from model aircraft shops in this country. You will probably be caught for import duty (I have ordered twice and paid duty once) but they are a very economical and efficient way of operating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted December 12, 2018 Author Share Posted December 12, 2018 to help if thats okay, i took a screenshot of the pdf to post as an image Hi sir douglas Thanks for that I'm still learning how to get things on the thread. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted December 12, 2018 Author Share Posted December 12, 2018 (edited) Hi Tim Thanks for the suggestion. When I built the test layout trailing my ECoS unit together with wiring points and digham electro-magnets, I rather rashly purchased a kit of the Peco SmartSwitch 4 servo motor control, then discovered you need PLS-135 Stationary Decoder (4 turnouts per decoder) plus if you wanted to feed the frog independently you need one smartFrog per point (I had read somewhere that this unit has been withdrawn after some problems) so I went off that idea. Currently having followed A Peters (Seven Mills and Dore End) thread for a while now where he is considering using DCC Concepts Cobalt digital motors, three wires connected and away you go, apparently, more research required yet, I'm not really at decision stage just yet. I've three baseboards completed, constructed from 125mm deep 9mm ply blocked and braced as shown on photos, no twist. The board shown has a softwood formed 'box' at either end to located the adjustable metal trestles with a softwood shelf for the adjoining board to rest on. Subsequent boards have such a locating 'box' only at one end, the other resting on the 'shelf'. The boards will be located by dowels and bolted together. Belt and braces or what! Photographs may make the construction clearer. Cheers Dave Edited December 12, 2018 by Daveloco1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted December 12, 2018 Author Share Posted December 12, 2018 (edited) Hi Tim Thanks for the suggestion. When I built the test layout trailing my ECoS unit together with wiring points and digham electro-magnets, I rather rashly purchased a kit of the Peco SmartSwitch 4 servo motor control, then discovered you need PLS-135 Stationary Decoder (4 turnouts per decoder) plus if you wanted to feed the frog independently you need one smartFrog per point (I had read somewhere that this unit has been withdrawn after some problems) so I went off that idea. Currently having followed A Peters (Seven Mills and Dore End) thread for a while now where he is considering using Cobalt? DCC motors, three wires connected and away you go, apparently, more research required yet, I'm not really at decision stage just yet. I've three baseboards completed, constructed from 125mm deep 9mm ply blocked and braced as shown on photos, no twist. The board shown has a softwood formed 'box' at either end to located the adjustable metal trestles with a softwood shelf for the adjoining board to rest on. Subsequent boards have such a locating 'box' only at one end, the other resting on the 'shelf'. The boards will be located by dowels and bolted together. Belt and braces or what! Photographs may make the construction clearer. Cheers Dave PS the green covering is fibreboard the stuff you use under laminate flooring. Edited December 12, 2018 by Daveloco1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdax Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 Nice woodworking Dave. That construction looks light and strong. Perhaps diagonals across the middle two bays would add even more twist resistance? I'm glad to see you put big lightening/wiring holes in before building the baseboard. They would be a bu66er to add afterwards! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 Nice woodworking Dave. That construction looks light and strong. Perhaps diagonals across the middle two bays would add even more twist resistance? I'm glad to see you put big lightening/wiring holes in before building the baseboard. They would be a bu66er to add afterwards! Hi Duncan Thanks. Forming the holes before construction was one of my better thought out ideas! Originally they had no bracing at all but twisted badly so I cut the braces slightly oversize, planned the corners off for a nice forced fit, a bit of PVA and bang them home, then blocked them off the base board top. Result - absolutely rigid, so decided not to insert the middle braces. Nice big holes for the wiring and nice and deep to hid the point motors. Cheers Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 The board shown has a softwood formed 'box' at either end to located the adjustable metal trestles... Those trestles seem to be the way to go for portable layouts... nice to see how you are providing a method to locate a board onto the top beam of the trestle. What do you intend to do to provide adjustment where a floor is not flat or level? regards, Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 Those trestles seem to be the way to go for portable layouts... nice to see how you are providing a method to locate a board onto the top beam of the trestle. What do you intend to do to provide adjustment where a floor is not flat or level? regards, Graham Hi Graham Thanks for the comments. The trestles came off the well known auction site, it seemed easier than build them and they are adjustable, so depending what I'm doing at the time I can lower them to reach the far side or lift them for a better eye level view. Getting the trestles to sit and locate in the baseboard depth was an interesting little problem but I got there. As regards adjustment errrmmmm, it's not intended to leave the house (that does mean not it never will be exhibited, you never know) and my home floors are level, but I see what you mean. I suppose I am rather hoping that when they are all bolted tightly together they will act like a beam (single unit) and span any dipping of the mid span support trestles. The only other way is the chew-on putting packs under the trestle legs! unless anyone as some bright ideas? Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wessy Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 Hi Tim Thanks for the suggestion. When I built the test layout trailing my ECoS unit together with wiring points and digham electro-magnets, I rather rashly purchased a kit of the Peco SmartSwitch 4 servo motor control, then discovered you need PLS-135 Stationary Decoder (4 turnouts per decoder) plus if you wanted to feed the frog independently you need one smartFrog per point (I had read somewhere that this unit has been withdrawn after some problems) so I went off that idea. Currently having followed A Peters (Seven Mills and Dore End) thread for a while now where he is considering using Cobalt? DCC motors, three wires connected and away you go, apparently, more research required yet, I'm not really at decision stage just yet. I've three baseboards completed, constructed from 125mm deep 9mm ply blocked and braced as shown on photos, no twist. The board shown has a softwood formed 'box' at either end to located the adjustable metal trestles with a softwood shelf for the adjoining board to rest on. Subsequent boards have such a locating 'box' only at one end, the other resting on the 'shelf'. The boards will be located by dowels and bolted together. Belt and braces or what! Photographs may make the construction clearer. Cheers Dave PS the green covering is fibreboard the stuff you use under laminate flooring. Dave, I have in the past, used analogue Cobalt motors and their levers as well and it worked beautifully smoothly. My main issues were that it seems a complicated (and pricy) way of moving a pair of switchblades and changing the polarity of a crossing. One other question - the photos really help to show the baseboard construction, but I can't work out how you connect the ironing board in to the rest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Kettlewell Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 The only other way is the chew-on putting packs under the trestle legs! unless anyone as some bright ideas? Cheers Dave Beermats Dave - I know a place where you can get them ... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 (edited) Dave, I have in the past, used analogue Cobalt motors and their levers as well and it worked beautifully smoothly. My main issues were that it seems a complicated (and pricy) way of moving a pair of switchblades and changing the polarity of a crossing. One other question - the photos really help to show the baseboard construction, but I can't work out how you connect the ironing board in to the rest... Hi Tim This what happens when domestic chores get in the way of modelling a bit like having to go to work also gets in the way! Dave Beermats Dave - I know a place where you can get them ... Hi Alan Me too our clubhouse! it's that or balance it up with a couple of pints on one end! Dave Edited December 13, 2018 by Daveloco1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 the points on my layout are operated mechanically, with second hand GEM levers and the polarity is done by a micro switch on each lever pushed by a bit of brass rod soldered to the brass bar. a good compromise would be using a point motor with a microswitch for the polarity http://files.websitebuilder.prositehosting.co.uk/fasthosts21213/image/1001d_1.jpg Deffors (282) by Sam, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 Hi sir douglas Thanks for your suggestion, I had seen your arrangement while reading your thread. I am trying to leave the boards clear of any controlling equipment. The idea being to operate the layout through my ECoS unit and it's on screen track diagram. To be honest at the minute I've enough on building baseboards and building my own trackwork to really make a decision on turnout motors although I do understand I cannot leave it too long. My test layout used Peco points with micro switches mounted in the housing provided between the point blades which powered the frog which work fine BUT that looked pretty naff. More thought required I think! Cheers thanks for following Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted December 19, 2018 Author Share Posted December 19, 2018 Hi Next up Lumden - The Back Story Lumden lies in the fairly narrow, steeply sided valley of the River Lum, somewhere in the Cleakuddersfax area of West Yorkshire. In the late 1800's the local mill owners, fed up with the strangle hold of the local canal interests, together other interested parties subscribed to the building of a single line up the valley to meet their needs. This was duly built and later taken over by The Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway, who promptly re-equipped the line with their own standard infrastructure, with very little LMS or BR expenditure since. I have an interest in The L & Y Railway and have already acquired some stock, so one possibility is to be able to back date the layout on certain running days. I'll just have to be careful with the details or have interchangeable accessories. Lumden is a intermediate passing station has the line continues further up the valley. The stations importance was increased when the local water authority decided to construct a new reservoir in one of the Lum's tributary valleys. A two foot narrow gauge line was constructed from Lumden to the site of construction to assist with the movement of men and materials. On completion of the works a benevolent local dignitary purchased the line 'lock, stock and barrel' to provide the locals and day trippers with a means to enjoy the local area and improve their well being. Water board staff visiting the reservoir also traveled by this means. After a number of years of neglect a local society took over the running and up-keep of the line for leisure use and very occasionally the transfer of a standard gauge wagon via a transport wagon up the line. I also have an interest in The Lynton & Barnstaple Railway, so by the way of a subtle move we have a narrow gauge railway in West Yorkshire. The layout sets out to depict one end of the station with narrow gauge lines, a very small yard with transfer into nearby buildings, together with a slightly larger private yard for wagon transfers to manufacturers 'off scene' by the private lines. The station sits on a road over bridge to form one scenic break, the other is formed as the line leaves the town over a canal bridge between tall mill buildings. Motive power on the main line will be early BR diesels together with a 4 wheel railbus (slightly out of region but Rule 1 applies) and single or two car diesel multiple units (when someone produces a suitable models). The private yard will be operated by steam locomotives (the might 'Victory' class 0-6-0 will certainly not be straining itself here) and very early or industrial diesels (including the brilliant Fowler 0-4-0's) Selector boards either end of the layout provide 'the rest of the world' and access to the local manufacturing clients premises via the private railway. Now I just need to get on and BUILD! Apologies for the rather long and drawn out description. Cheers Dave 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveloco1 Posted January 9, 2019 Author Share Posted January 9, 2019 Hi Been awhile since last posted, not much happened really. Installed the bus wires for one of the boards through those nice big holes! Also been building a C & L point turnout kit. This is again a trail run has all my turnouts on the layout are on a curve these will have to be constructed as I go to form nice sweeping curves and avoid the 'wheel drop'. Attached are photos of work so far just needs part chairs and check rails installing and the stretcher bars. What or how have you tackled this the bars supplied by C & L in the kit don't appear up to the job of switching the blades. I have thought of using a piece of copper clad, soldered to the blades and cut in the middle to achieve electric isolation. Any thoughts welcomed. Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Kettlewell Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 Hi Dave, One method is to solder a dropper to each blade, which drop down through small holes drilled in the baseboard. These droppers are soldered to a copper clad strip underneath which is activated by your chosen method of operation. The tie bars can be used for aesthetic purposes. Cheers... Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted January 9, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2019 Hi Dave, Layout plan looks good and I shallenjoy following along. I've built O gauge points previously (currently building them at the moment, well trying to) using C&L components but I was advised by several on here to go for the tiebars from Peter Waterman's JLTRT. While JLTRT has ceased, the bars are still available from MM1 models. Easy to put together with a little bit of Araldite to so no shorts, and a simple solder onto the blades. Something to think about perhaps? Id certainly recommend them. Good luck with what your progressing. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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