galaxyg Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 (edited) Hi, I've bought some Railtec decals and they're great except one thing - adherence to the model. Anyone used these and got any advice? The loco body looks great but will never stand up to any kind of repeated handling. Here are the approaches I've tried and discarded: 1) Mr Hobby Decal Setter - not strong enough. 2) Make sure the surface is nice and glossy to give good adhesion. Great if you like a glossy train. Overlaying later with matt or satin varnish to make it look realistic crinkles/destroys the decal. 3) Overlay with Tamiya Gloss / Satin / Matt Varnish - crinkles and/or destroys the decal 4) Overlay with Testors Dullcoat lacquer brushed on - crinkles decal 5) Overlay with Mr Hobby Flat Matt water based varnish - crinkles decal. I'm out of ideas at this point. Thanks, Michael. Edited January 22, 2019 by galaxyg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted January 8, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 8, 2019 Hi, I've bought some Railtec decals and they're great except one thing - adherence to the model. Anyone used these and got any advice? The loco body looks great but will never stand up to any kind of repeated handling. Here are the approaches I've tried and discarded: 1) Mr Hobby Decal Setter - not strong enough. 2) Make sure the surface is nice and glossy to give good adhesion. Great if you like a glossy train. Overlaying later with matt or satin varnish to make it look realistic crinkles/destroys the decal. 3) Overlay with Tamiya Gloss / Satin / Matt Varnish - crinkles and/or destroys the decal 4) Overlay with Testors Dullcoat lacquer brushed on - crinkles decal 5) Overlay with Mr Hobby Flat Matt water based varnish - crinkles decal. I'm out of ideas at this point. Thanks, Michael. Hi I can't say I've had any issues overcoating Railtec transfers with Testors Dullcote but then I used it from a spray can. I've also brush painted Johnsons Klear over them without a problem. Cheers Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted January 8, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 8, 2019 (edited) 3) Overlay with Tamiya Gloss / Satin / Matt Varnish - crinkles and/or destroys the decal Strange I found no issues with Tamiya flat or satin varnish, are you putting a lot on? I always just dust a very light coat on first and let that dry before applying a full layer as I've had issues with varnish lifting transfers in the past if not fully dry. I did a 4 coach HST & power cars with Railtec and had no issues with the logos or long stripes. Edited January 8, 2019 by PaulRhB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
railtec-models Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 (edited) Just as well I check the forums from time to time. I know for a fact that a number of modellers have used at least (1) to (4) of those 5 methods without any issues at all (I have no info on [5]), so it would lead me to believe that there's perhaps something unique to the prepartion method you're using. I think if there were issues with those methods then my Inbox would have been lighting up for the past 2-3 years for all the wrong reasons. As the instructions say - as with any waterslide transfers, building up light coats is preferred to flooding with a brush. Still, every day is a school day so if you could PM/email me details of the order number - which is always the preferred method as I can then check the info quickly - as well as some photographic evidence so I can see what's happening, that would be good. Railtec Community http://www.railtec-models.com/community.php Edited January 8, 2019 by railtec-models 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ColinK Posted January 8, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 8, 2019 I’ve used Railtec decals without any problem, applied after painting with Humbrol or Railmatch matt enamels (yes I skipped the coat of gloss to help them adhere) and with a thin coat of matt varnish afterwards. My stock gets plenty of handling and rough treatment when applying weathering. I do leave lots of time between stages to make sure everything is fully dry. So very odd to get the problems in the OP. Great response from Railtec, so nice to see a supplier helping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted January 8, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 8, 2019 Hi, Hi, I've bought some Railtec decals and they're great except one thing - adherence to the model. Anyone used these and got any advice? The loco body looks great but will never stand up to any kind of repeated handling. Here are the approaches I've tried and discarded: 1) Mr Hobby Decal Setter - not strong enough. 2) Make sure the surface is nice and glossy to give good adhesion. Great if you like a glossy train. Overlaying later with matt or satin varnish to make it look realistic crinkles/destroys the decal. 3) Overlay with Tamiya Gloss / Satin / Matt Varnish - crinkles and/or destroys the decal 4) Overlay with Testors Dullcoat lacquer brushed on - crinkles decal 5) Overlay with Mr Hobby Flat Matt water based varnish - crinkles decal. I'm out of ideas at this point. Thanks, Michael. I would concur with what Steve from Railtec has added. I've used his transfers on several occasions and then subsequently covered with Testors Dullcoat or a matt varnish and had no problems what ever. What model have you added them too? Is it just adding the decals or have you painted it as well? Very odd tho, extremely rare to hear of anyone having a problem with Railtec stuff. I’ve used Railtec decals without any problem, applied after painting with Humbrol or Railmatch matt enamels (yes I skipped the coat of gloss to help them adhere) and with a thin coat of matt varnish afterwards. My stock gets plenty of handling and rough treatment when applying weathering. I do leave lots of time between stages to make sure everything is fully dry. So very odd to get the problems in the OP.Great response from Railtec, so nice to see a supplier helping. Yep would agree with all those comments Colin. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted January 8, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 8, 2019 Hik all, I agree with Steve as well. I've used numerous decals from this range and only had a problem once. In the end the problem came down to surface prepartaion - ie my own fault. Do not use a brush to put on a top coat of flat finish as it will pull at the decal. Putting a coat of gloss on the model will help you - I use also Klear for this. Spray the flat finish and keep it as thin a coat as possible - I use whatever I have available but prefer Microscale Mico Flat. Other than that - practice make perfect.................. Thanks Phil H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galaxyg Posted January 8, 2019 Author Share Posted January 8, 2019 Thanks for all the comments. User error is likely, I'm more used to glossy 1/24 cars and tamiya decals. Anyway I'll do a few more experiments and post photos taken in daylight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRail Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 How long did you leave the transfer to dry before applying the coatings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galaxyg Posted January 8, 2019 Author Share Posted January 8, 2019 How long did you leave the transfer to dry before applying the coatings Overnight at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRail Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 Shouldn’t be trapped moisture then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 9, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2019 (edited) Has anyone experence with Halfords satin varnish and Railtec transfers? After damage to the transfers on my TDA in transit taking it to a show (caused by the fact I hadn't got round to varnishing) I want to get my Cargowaggon twin varnished before I take it to Yate next month, but cant risk damaging the transfers. Edited January 9, 2019 by The Fatadder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 Has anyone experence with Halfords satin varnish and Railtec transfers? After damage to the transfers on my TDA in transit taking it to a show, I want to get my Cargowaggon twin varnished before I take it to Yate next month, but cant risk damaging the transfers. I haven't tried the satin stuff yet but I use the standard gloss stuff first before using a (different) satin over the top and never had an issue. That said, with the spot printed stuff the gloss probably isn't required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galaxyg Posted January 9, 2019 Author Share Posted January 9, 2019 I'm going to run a few more experiments to scientifically (I hope) figure out what is the best solution - focusing now on several types of surface preparation. I will post back with pictures once I have a conclusive working result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 Once the transfers are dry, I normally apply a thin coat of Klear with a brush to seal them. Once that is dry, I then finish the whole model with Testors. I have never had a problem with Railtec transfers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRail Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 Has anyone experence with Halfords satin varnish and Railtec transfers? After damage to the transfers on my TDA in transit taking it to a show, I want to get my Cargowaggon twin varnished before I take it to Yate next month, but cant risk damaging the transfers. I have had issues with various makes of transfrers using rattle can varnish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted January 9, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 9, 2019 I'm going to run a few more experiments to scientifically (I hope) figure out what is the best solution - focusing now on several types of surface preparation. I will post back with pictures once I have a conclusive working result. It ain't rocket science - gloss under and over, then apply whatever you wish to achieve you desired surface finish. Regards, John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 9, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2019 I haven't tried the satin stuff yet but I use the standard gloss stuff first before using a (different) satin over the top and never had an issue. That said, with the spot printed stuff the gloss probably isn't required. Thinking about it, there are some spares for number panels etc on the sheet. I will apply some of these to a bit of plasticard and give a quick coat of the Halfords primer and see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 The trick seems to be putting something water-based over the transfers first to seal them. That way they will not be attacked by any solvents that may be in the rattle-can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galaxyg Posted January 9, 2019 Author Share Posted January 9, 2019 The trick seems to be putting something water-based over the transfers first to seal them. That way they will not be attacked by any solvents that may be in the rattle-can. I've tried that with this , but to no avail. Yet. I will test this again also once I have a very glossy surface to atach decals to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtag Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 (edited) I've found the 3D ones are a sod to adhere and have gone back to etched plates for now. However for ordinary 2D transfers I've had no issues at all - in fact I apply with just water now onto a coat of Tamiya gloss where typically I use microset and microsol. A coat or 2 of tamiya gloss over the top followed by whatever matt/satin finish I'm after. Edited January 9, 2019 by Ragtag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
railtec-models Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 I've found the 3D ones are a sod to adhere and have gone back to etched plates for now. A dab of PVA glue and the job's a good'un: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtag Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 Yes, I'd wondered whether the gloss finish normally used for waterslide might have been detrimental to the glue which I applied after the fact to the loose corner of a diamond plaque depot plate. Deluxe super-phatic was all I had to hand which may have been a touch thin too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 (edited) I use T cut to remove numbers which leaves a glossy area. Flatten it with rattle can humbrol Matt varnish . Only issue has been inconsistency of humbrol product ! Like this one Incidentally , that’s not Steve’s fully made up TOPs , it’s individual no’s, which is a bit obvious close up ! Edited January 9, 2019 by rob D2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest teacupteacup Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 (edited) I had Humbrol Clear eat some older Railtec transfers, but the newer ones I've had to no problem with. I'm going to be trying Winsor & Newton Galeria Gloss as a base and seal coat, and the same range as a Matt top coat So far its worked with Modelmaster transfers Edited January 9, 2019 by teacupteacup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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